Here's another look at the thermal cleaning system at Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop being used to clean a pair of grungy/filthy Corvair cylinder heads. (949) 631-6376 Don't forget to 'Click' and SUBSCRIBE.
Oil Galley Steel Ball Removal
There are more than a few of you out there who have tried to get those
pesky steel balls out of the oil galleries in crankshafts, here, John
Edwards @ Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop will show you one method.
(949) 631-6376 Don't forget to 'Click" and SUBSCRIBE! T-shirts and
jacket/hat patches still available.
Opel Cylinder Head Resurface and O Ringing
This Opel Kadett cylinder hewad was brought into Costa Mesa R&D Automotive
Machine Shop for resurfacing and O-ringing, watch as John Edwards guides
you thru the process. (949) 631-6376 Don't forget to 'Click' and
O-Ringing Honda Cylinder Head
Ever wonder how to o-ring a cylinder head? Watch as John Edwards @ Costa
Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop shows you how it done. (949) 631-6376
Don't forget to 'Click' and SUBSCRIBE!
324 Oldsmobile Cracked Cylinder Head Repair
This Oldsmobile 324 Rocket cylinder head has a crack, watch John Edwards as
he repairs is at Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine. (949) 631-6376 Be sure
to "Click" and SUBSCRIBE.
Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might
perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a
problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is
brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers
cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius
cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of
actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else
THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional
explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented
access to your facilities.
A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new
seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several
different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the
process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that
utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate
angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all
3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine
demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out
of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape
of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30,
45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between
My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated
stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized
Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves.
Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction
performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without
melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed
typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and
a bigger valve.
Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head:
I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another
valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this
raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft
selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only
solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the
valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.
1969 Corvair Badass!
1969 smog Chevrolet Corvair: this ride went through a makeover here at
Rafee Corvair in the Heartland, we upgraded the engine with a 260 cam,
.040 custom made forged pistons; we plugged the cumbersome smog system,
but left it in place for originality at shows. I don't know about you guys,
but to me, the smog system was not a good idea, and stock Corvairs lacked
power! If it wasn't for the mods that I do to these rides, I probably
wouldn't mess with them.....Don't take me wrong, I dig the body style of
both earlies and late, it is just the power issue that needs to be
addressed. Now, after my work, this ride runs the way it is supposed to,
glides smoothly and has plenty of power! It can easily cruise at 80 MPH,
awesome for a 2-speed powerglide! If your ride is ready for an overhaul,
don't hesitate to call me at 918-753-2486 with any questions you might
have, or e-mail email@example.com. Keep them rolling, Peace out!
How To Clean The Carbon From Top Of Pistons | Using Only Household Products
VISIT THE SITE TO SEE ALL PHOTOS AND VIDEOS ON THIS:
After pulling the GT40 heads from the 5.0 roller motor I discovered that
the tops of the pistons were coated in a thick layer of black carbon
buildup. The cylinder walls (bores) were in great shape with no gouges or
burrs. This left me with 2 options. Option 1 was to disassemble the entire
short block and replace the pistons and parts that were essential after
short block disassembly. Or Option 2 was to try and clean these up and
freshen up the cylinder walls. I chose option 2.
I started by spraying the piston tops with the bathroom cleaner and I let
it soak in for about 10 minutes. Next, I took an SOS or Brillo pad and
soaked it in rubbing alcohol. I started to scrub and scrub until the carbon
began to come off in places. This is a vigorous process that does require
some old fashioned elbow grease but in the end the results are well worth
it. Once all of the carbon was relatively gone off of the flat areas of the
piston I broke out the air grinder with a brass brush for the valve reliefs
The air tools are not essential if you want to take a little extra time
with a brass bristled hand brush. Whatever you do, only use brass! After
all of the carbon was clear I used the steel wool wet with alcohol and
wiped down the cylinder bores and made them shine like new again. I gave
the pistons a final rinse with alcohol and then vigorously oiled the
pistons and the cylinder walls to ensure no surface rust would appear. I
also sprayed them down with Ballistol (gun cleaner all natural)
Anyone can do this with a little time and patients. Just take your time and
you'll love the results!
Cheap DIY Engine Parts Cleaner To Remove Oil and Sludge
Today we are going to clean up some nasty engine parts with our DIY parts
cleaner. Most parts cleaners can cost $100 or more. This plastic container
was about $15. We picked up a few gallons of Super Clean purple clearner,
heavy duty Gloves, scrub brushes and a heavy duty plastic tub. We used a
tub with a lid to seal in the fumes, and poured in our purple engine parts
cleaner. You can see the nasty sludge build up on the bottom of this valve
cover. We laid it into the purple solution and let it sit overnight. The
next day you can see the huge change. The purple cleaner dissolved almost
all of the oil and dirt. Next we tried it on this aluminum cylinder head
that also had a lot of sludge buildup. It was soaked overnight as well. You
can scrub it by hand but we have a pressure washer so we went ahead and
just sprayed it down. The dirt and oil easily came off.
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average
Birth of a 140 HP: first click , ROAR........
Recently got done upgrading this engine from a 110 to a 140 HP for kick ass
performance, and some bling .....damn, she's hot.....Yeah! If you need some
help with your project, don't hesitate to contact me at
Adjusting Corvair valves is a snap!
An easy way to adjust Chevy Corvair valves without making a big mess: split
a stock valve cover in half, that will catch the oil ( if you need a used
valve cover, check our website www.rafeecorvair.com under used parts, we
have them in stock, as well as many other gaskets to finish the job) ....If
you are doing a maintenance valve adjustment, install your oil catchers
on both sides, let the engine warm up, and starting at either end, loosen
the nut until the rocker arm starts clattering/ knocking/ ticking (LOL),
let it do its thing for several seconds, then re-tighten til the noise
quiets down, stop and then go 1/4 turn more. Some even go 1/2 turn to 3/4
turn. Myself, I do 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn and it works. If the engine is new,
you can do this 2 different ways: cold, as outlined in the shop manual, or
with the engine running, as I prefer. Make sure all the rocker arms are
tightened, but leave some small amount of play between the valve stems and
the rocker arm tips, so the lifters can pump up. I want to explain this
the easiest way that I can, not too technical, so everybody can follow. If
the engine is new, I normally let it run for 20 to 30 mn, I want this baby
to be hot, so the lifters can pump up ./ fill with oil. Then I start
tightening 1 rocker arm at a time, starting at either end. Just take the
clatter/ knocking away, and no more. When you are done doing all that to
the 12 rocker arms, now you are gonna adjust one at a time, by loosening
each one, let the clatter/ knocking come back for several seconds, and
tighten til it quiets down. Then go 1/4 turn more. Repeat the process til
all are done, and VOILA! I told you it was easy.....If you run into any
problems, don't hesitate to call Rafman at 918-753-2486. Happy to be at