1807cc Type 1 VW, New Engine Running on Stand for first time, before selling as long block.
New Build 1807cc Type 1 VW Engine, New 87mm Forged Mahle Barrels & Pistons, New Forged Counterweighted 76mm Crankshaft, New Magnesium Block, New Bearings throughout, New Engle VZ-15 Camshaft, New 31mm High Performance Lifters, New Standard Cylinder Heads with stepped & Hemi'd combustion chamber, Zero Deck Height, 9.7 to 1 compression ratio. Runs Great!
Just Built 1776cc VW Beetle Bug Motor - POWERFUL!!!! LOUD!
1776cc newly rebuilt by myself.
Weber 44mm Carb
stock 69mm Crankshaft
stock connecting rods
90.5mm Mahle pistons
Engle 120 Camshaft
Hi Performance lifters with oil gallery (for cam lobes)
042 high performance head with port&polish and 3 angle valve job.
Euro tuck Exhaust with J-tubes
Porsche 914 2.4 Liter Engine, 2413cc Motor, Air cooled VW, Bus, Type 4, 2.0 IV
150 Hp Type IV high performance engine, 71mm stroke x 104mm bore. Scat C45
cam, polished intakes, 44mm x 38mm SS valves, 9.2:1 CR, dual 44mm Webers. I
built this engine for my brother and while I was gone he shot the video
with my test Exhaust removed. The good
thing is that he the engine ran fine for the 3 years he had it so luckily
he didn't hurt anything.
Classic VW Engine Rebuild, By Last Chance Auto Restore.com
We began with a dual port 1600 cc engine from a 1973 Volkswagen Beetle.
The engine ran with a miss and was smoking a bit . After performing a
compression test,(both wet and dry) , we determined the crankshaft and
bearings were fine.
We replaced the pistons, pots & rings. We had the valves redone and made
several upgrades along the way.....
vw beetle documentary Classic Wheels (1/3)
This documentary gives a nice overview of the history of the volkswagen
beetle. It contains unique footage of Ferdinand Porsche standing near a
pre-war beetle. Before the war this was called the KdF Wagen.
The documentary was broadcast by Discovery Channel in 2004.
Tuning a vw solex 34 pict 3 carb on 1904cc Option 1
I couldn't find any good info on how to modify a Solex 34 Pict 3 carburetor
to run on larger engines above 1.9L. So here is what I did to make it work.
If you jet the carb right this Mod should have Low Idle Emissions (very
clean below 4500rpms)
Please note, English is not my first language so bear with me! My engine
is a 1904cc with a stock cam and 042 heads. That's 40mm intake and 35.5mm
exh, heads are ported and the intake manifold end casts are match ported.
Rockers are stock. Compression is 8.7:1. Distributor is a vacuum advance
only and its set at 8deg at idle and max vacuum advance is 42deg (Note: the
Ford V8 flat head was not the only car with a vacuum advance only
distributor!!!) I don't want to hear it!... ALSO DO NOT USE A 009
Carb is a Solex 34 Pict 3 Bocar
The restrictive 26 mm to 28mm Venturi (Depending on your carb) is removed
and none are used! The new diameter is 34mm. Now you're really going to
move some air!
These jets are a good for a 1904cc at Sea Level
Also these jets are a lot bigger because there is a lower vacuum at the
throttle area! Don't worry your not going to run rich if you're running a
1904cc to 1914cc engine! If you plan to run a bigger engine like 2180cc
you're going to need bigger jets. I would not run anything below 1904cc
without a venturi do to the lack of vacuum and above 2180cc with this carb
because a 34mm diameter throttle plate is just too small. To get the jets
to the sizes that you need, you need to drill them. Use a digital caliper
to find the right size drill bit. Does not have to be a real drill bit, any
hard wire will work! If you go too far just solder them shut and redrill
them. There are plenty of youtube videos that show you where all the jets
are, or you can look at my part2 supplemental video and also look at No
Venturi 2nd Option.
Heres a tool to resize your jets. This tool will make it very easy.
This is a cheaper drill set
You don't really need this one, but if your a perfectionist here's a link
If you jet the carb right you should end up with a normal carb with no
Idle jet is 78mm..... 85mm runs rich, 75mm runs ok but lost power below
Main jet is 165mm.... 150mm runs ok but runs lean and hot
Air jet is 60mm......... 70mm and higher increases the hesitation problem
but an engine with more ccs may be able to run with a larger air jet.
Aux jet is 42mm........ right next to the idle jet at 11 o'clock. This is
for high rpms only, close to 5k. So if you plan to rev the shit out of your
engine you might want to change this to 42mm or bigger, but will work fine
with the stock jet. My advise is leave it stock. Fine tune your Idle jet,
main jet, and air jet. With these jets I'm currently getting a personal
worst of 22mpg W/O (wide open). Personal best of 30.5mpg at 60mph driving
like an old person and 27.5mpg at 70mph! With my freeway flyer tranny. Not
bad for a big engine with a carburetor!!!! My top speed is.... ???mph. I
don't know, I chickened out at 112mph!... It wanted more!.... lol
Explanation of Why it Works:
The hose is to keep your fuel bowl as close to atmospheric pressure as
possible. Other wise the fuel will not flow in to the throttle air stream
because of the negative air pressure in the fuel bowl that's created by the
breather tube that ends at the center of the air stream (Above the choke),
which is a negative air stream area. Because the fuel in the bowl is at a
negative pressure, the fuel is actually pulling away from your jets giving
you a stumble, bog and a surging feeling when driving with out a venturi in
your carb. The venturi normally creates a larger negative air pressure at
the throttle plate that over powers the vacuum that's in the fuel bowl,
which causes fuel to get sucked into the air stream. It basically works
like an airplane wing but round. So by decreasing the vacuum in the bowl
it makes it easier for the fuel to get sucked in by your jets and into the
throttle air stream area. I hope this helps!!!....What?.... LMAO
If you run a thinner hose form the vent tube all the way through and exit
the air cleaner you should eliminate any remaining stumbles. I know it
works better because I already tried it and determined that this approach
Please Note: I'm not a mechanic or ever claim to be one. I have however
been modifing anything mechanical all my life! Use this information at your
own risk!!!...lol Please don't use a carb with an existing stumble or that
has tuning problems! But if you do, make sure you do a proper rebuild on
Thrust Test Of VW Engine
This is a full power thrust test of the VW engine that I am selling on
Ebay. As you can see , it produces 205 pounds of pull . This is plenty for
a light weight single wing plane however this Fisher Youngster plane has
lots of wind drag so we need to swing a larger prop. More power SCOTTY!!
cc head for 2276 vw engine build.
I had installed the spark plugs in the head before cc'ing for an accurate #
this reading (#) of 45mm is used with other information (cyl size, crank
stroke ect) in an engine calculator to figure out compression ratio.
Air-Cooled VW Beetle Heater Channel Replacement
In Bug Me Video -Volume 7 Heater Channel Replacement (full 1hr 45min
version available at www.mamotorworks.com part #323-307) we begin by
showing you what the heater channel looks like and the different kinds
available. We then move to our 63 sunroof bug and show where the channel is
located in the car and exactly where and how it is attached. We then drill
out the spot welds and cut the solid welds showing what tools can be used
and where care should be exercised. When completely loose we show how to
brace the door opening and lift the body enough to remove the old channel.
(Removing the body was demonstrated in Vol.6 and is needed info) Once the
channel is out we repair a badly rusted door post (A pillar) by butt
welding in a replacement panel. This is explained and demonstrated in clear
detail. Now the new channel is put in place; the body is lowered; and the
channel is welded back into place. Door alignment is given attention during
this final part. At this point we move on to a '70 beetle convertible. The
extra strengthening gussets and panels are pointed out and removed. Now a
procedure that allows the channel to be removed without lifting the body is
demonstrated. This is done by replacing the lower portion of the rear
quarter panel (which was badly rusted on our car) and replacing a strip of
metal in the front wheel well. Once these panels are removed the channel
can be maneuvered out the side of the body. Another manner of securing the
door opening is demonstrated here. With the channel back in place we show
how to do a lap weld with a joggle in the panel when replacing the lower
quarter panel. We show an inexpensive spot welding tool that can be used
with any DC arc welder and how to do a plug weld. All without warping the
flat panel. Just for fun, the last few minutes of the tape is filled with
outtakes from the video.
1 hour and 40 minutes of easy to follow instruction, Including:
■Heater Channel Replacement
■Lower Door Post Replacement
■Lower Quarter Panel Replacement