1807cc Type 1 VW, New Engine Running on Stand for first time, before selling as long block.
New Build 1807cc Type 1 VW Engine, New 87mm Forged Mahle Barrels & Pistons, New Forged Counterweighted 76mm Crankshaft, New Magnesium Block, New Bearings throughout, New Engle VZ-15 Camshaft, New 31mm High Performance Lifters, New Standard Cylinder Heads with stepped & Hemi'd combustion chamber, Zero Deck Height, 9.7 to 1 compression ratio. Runs Great!
Just Built 1776cc VW Beetle Bug Motor - POWERFUL!!!! LOUD!
1776cc newly rebuilt by myself.
Weber 44mm Carb
stock 69mm Crankshaft
stock connecting rods
90.5mm Mahle pistons
Engle 120 Camshaft
Hi Performance lifters with oil gallery (for cam lobes)
042 high performance head with port&polish and 3 angle valve job.
Euro tuck Exhaust with J-tubes
Tuning a vw solex 34 pict 3 carb on 1904cc Option 1
I couldn't find any good info on how to modify a Solex 34 Pict 3 carburetor
to run on larger engines above 1.9L. So here is what I did to make it work.
If you jet the carb right this Mod should have Low Idle Emissions (very
clean below 4500rpms)
Please note, English is not my first language so bear with me! My engine
is a 1904cc with a stock cam and 042 heads. That's 40mm intake and 35.5mm
exh, heads are ported and the intake manifold end casts are match ported.
Rockers are stock. Compression is 8.7:1. Distributor is a vacuum advance
only and its set at 8deg at idle and max vacuum advance is 42deg (Note: the
Ford V8 flat head was not the only car with a vacuum advance only
distributor!!!) I don't want to hear it!... ALSO DO NOT USE A 009
Carb is a Solex 34 Pict 3 Bocar
The restrictive 26 mm to 28mm Venturi (Depending on your carb) is removed
and none are used! The new diameter is 34mm. Now you're really going to
move some air!
These jets are a good for a 1904cc at Sea Level
Also these jets are a lot bigger because there is a lower vacuum at the
throttle area! Don't worry your not going to run rich if you're running a
1904cc to 1914cc engine! If you plan to run a bigger engine like 2180cc
you're going to need bigger jets. I would not run anything below 1904cc
without a venturi do to the lack of vacuum and above 2180cc with this carb
because a 34mm diameter throttle plate is just too small. To get the jets
to the sizes that you need, you need to drill them. Use a digital caliper
to find the right size drill bit. Does not have to be a real drill bit, any
hard wire will work! If you go too far just solder them shut and redrill
them. There are plenty of youtube videos that show you where all the jets
are, or you can look at my part2 supplemental video and also look at No
Venturi 2nd Option.
Heres a tool to resize your jets. This tool will make it very easy.
This is a cheaper drill set
You don't really need this one, but if your a perfectionist here's a link
If you jet the carb right you should end up with a normal carb with no
Idle jet is 62mm..... 65mm runs rich, 67mm runs ok but lost power below
Main jet is 165mm.... 150mm runs ok but runs lean and hot
Air jet is 60mm......... 70mm and higher increases the hesitation problem
but an engine with more ccs may be able to run with a larger air jet.
Aux jet is 42mm........ right next to the idle jet at 11 o'clock. This is
for high rpms only, close to 5k. So if you plan to rev the shit out of your
engine you might want to change this to 42mm or bigger, but will work fine
with the stock jet. My advise is leave it stock. Fine tune your Idle jet,
main jet, and air jet. With these jets I'm currently getting a personal
worst of 22mpg W/O (wide open). Personal best of 30.5mpg at 60mph driving
like an old person and 27.5mpg at 70mph! With my freeway flyer tranny. Not
bad for a big engine with a carburetor!!!! My top speed is.... ???mph. I
don't know, I chickened out at 112mph!... It wanted more!.... lol
Explanation of Why it Works:
The hose is to keep your fuel bowl as close to atmospheric pressure as
possible. Other wise the fuel will not flow in to the throttle air stream
because of the negative air pressure in the fuel bowl that's created by the
breather tube that ends at the center of the air stream (Above the choke),
which is a negative air stream area. Because the fuel in the bowl is at a
negative pressure, the fuel is actually pulling away from your jets giving
you a stumble, bog and a surging feeling when driving with out a venturi in
your carb. The venturi normally creates a larger negative air pressure at
the throttle plate that over powers the vacuum that's in the fuel bowl,
which causes fuel to get sucked into the air stream. It basically works
like an airplane wing but round. So by decreasing the vacuum in the bowl
it makes it easier for the fuel to get sucked in by your jets and into the
throttle air stream area. I hope this helps!!!....What?.... LMAO
If you run a thinner hose form the vent tube all the way through and exit
the air cleaner you should eliminate any remaining stumbles. I know it
works better because I already tried it and determined that this approach
Please Note: I'm not a mechanic or ever claim to be one. I have however
been modifing anything mechanical all my life! Use this information at your
own risk!!!...lol Please don't use a carb with an existing stumble or that
has tuning problems! But if you do, make sure you do a proper rebuild on
Thrust Test Of VW Engine
This is a full power thrust test of the VW engine that I am selling on
Ebay. As you can see , it produces 205 pounds of pull . This is plenty for
a light weight single wing plane however this Fisher Youngster plane has
lots of wind drag so we need to swing a larger prop. More power SCOTTY!!
Bug Motor on Stand: 2276cc - Dual 44 IDFs - VZ30
My dad and I have been making stabs at building my bug motor for nearly a
year now anytime I was in town. We finally fired it up 11-25-11. This is a
short video showing it running on a stand. We obviously haven't thrown it
on a Dyno yet but we
hope for 160hp+. In this video it is running on racing fuel but it will be
a street engine running on pump gas. It will be going into my 1969 VW
94mm bore x 82mm stroke
42 x 37.5mm valves in ported 043 heads
Dual Weber 44 IDF carbs
Engle VZ-30 camshaft
1776 assembly series #3
Part #3 of a series on assembling 1776 vw engine.
includes Distributor drive gear, deck height measurments for compression
Breaking in Cam and Lifters on 1956cc VW Build.
Cam & Lifter Break in.
Engle 110 card says run at 1500-1800 RPM for 20 min's.
76mm 4140 Forged Chromoly Crank from CB Performance
Engle W-110 Cam, Lifters,& HD Single Springs
Uni-Tech Performance Rods - 5.500''
AA 90.5 B Pistons/Cylinders
SCAT 1.25:1 Rockers
Gene Berg Full Flow Kit
Vintage Speed Superflow Exhaust w/
Dellorto 40 carbs
Bosch 019 Distributor
Test firing a VW Type 1 Motor
Test firing the VW Motor. Think its a 1600. Single port. New Coil, Dizzy,
Spark plugs, wires, rebuilt carb, seals, etc...
German look beetle 2007cc turbo
Franklin fires up the turbo after
building it and the trans, It should make about 170 at the crank with the
turb. I just got a t3 header which is powdercoated and will upgrade the turbo to a t3 t4 hybrid and will bring the
power up to 250 - 300!
VW 36hp engine with Judson supercharger and Marvel Mystery Oiler running on test stand
This is the first video of my 36hp VW engine running with the Judson Supercharger on the test stand. When I
installed the Judson Supercharger and
Marvel Mystery Oiler, I also installed a H-filter bypass filter and a
freshly rebuilt 019 distributor. The engine also has VDO oil pressure and
temp senders installed. The engine is complete, including ALL of the tin
and a working warm-up ring assembly. Everything will either get painted or
powdercoated prior to being installed in my 1955 oval, ragtop, semaphore
VW. I had to source parts from all over the world to get everything I
needed. It was quite an adventure to get this all together and running.
It only took 5 core 36hp VW engines. 8^)
High Performance Air Cooled VW Type 1 valve springs demo
See how close these valve springs come to coil bind with a high lift cam.
VW air cooled Beetle High Lift 1.4:1 rockers and dual springs with 42 x 37
valves and custom Web Cam high lift short duration cam. Stroker motor (84
mm crank and 5.7" H beam rods).