14b Laser Dyno MOD '11 Normal, IL
92 FWD Laser
-stock 14b turbo @20psi falling to 17psi
-Punishment racing FMIC Core w/ghetto short route piping
-ECMLink V3 Tuned by me
-255lph fuel pump
-press bent 3" turboback Exhaust
-93 oct pump
-19* of timing
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion
strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they
can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure
in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by.
Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why
they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You
don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil
viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from
the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by
connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can
be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can
easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that
pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase
pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings
from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover
gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to
escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One
of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is
having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then
there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also,
on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works
against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV
system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple
breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the
breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the
throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The
PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the
intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake
than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at
idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of
the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is
always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger
than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when
you're under Boost... that's all the
blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11
PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of
Boost, this is a system which is
frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as
well look at your Boost controller
as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is
bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of
creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced
techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs
do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high
crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption
that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum.
Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals
without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but
that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and
rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad
shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and
leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no
vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates
the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a
catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation.
I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air
that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever
building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require
gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal
to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings.
One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract
gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.
6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement
Video made my Chrysler for the Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser demonstrating
how-to replace the timing belt on the 2.0L i4 DOHC (8-Bolt) Mitsubishi
Sorry, part of the video was cut.
1989 Pontiac Grand Prix tour, start up, & exhaust
Well after putting a new transmission, and various other new parts I
decided to make a new video of my Grand Prix. My previous video it was all
dirty and covered in snow so I figured its time for a new one. Since I
bought it, I put in a new transmission (all by myself, first trans swap),
motor mounts, ball joints, tie rods, and a starter. As of right now it
needs Front struts and an ICM, you can hear in the video when I walk around
the passenger side it starts idling high out of no where ,its because the
ICM is going bad. Anyway after I do the ICM and struts I plan on doing some
body work, it only has one small spot of rust, the rest just needs paint
touched up in a few places.
1989 Pontiac Grand Prix SE
3.1L V6 w/ 101,000 miles
4spd automatic trans
Trans & Clutch 8 - Adjust the Clutch
This video assumes you have already bled the clutch. If you haven't, stop.
You have to have every bit of air out of the clutch hydraulics before
beginning these procedures.
Clutch adjustment is key on 4g63 cars. Preloading the clutch can lead to
catastrophic engine main thrust bearing failure. The clutch hydraulics
need to have enough fluid volume flowing through them to fully-actuate the
slave, but enough pedal travel to allow it to flow back to the reservoir
This video covers the basics of how to do this. Also included are part
numbers for 1g and 2g clutch pedal and linkage assemblies and a brief
documentary of one of my previous failures.
For the most comprehensive information about how all of the clutch
hydraulic components work together, what happens when you get it wrong,
what the accepted procedure is to adjust your clutch if you need to
visualize it in a list... turn to the community! Dang you guys are the
best! Below are some great resources you can use to help with your
Recess begins now!
Jackstransmissions also has a clutch video uploaded here on YouTube.
Walbro Fuel Pump Install on a 2g AWD DSM - Part 1
Your typical tutorial on fuel pump removal and installation to be able to
run 1 million PSI and beat everything that comes your way. :D This specific
pump is the Walbro 255 HP LPH.
This applied to a 99 Eclipse GSX turbo
but can be applied to any DSM as well as other cars like Toyota, Subaru WRX
STi, Mitsubishi Evo, Chevrolet, Ford, VW, Nissan, etc.
Let's hope the 4g63 is ready for some real Boost on the FP Green. =)
How to Turbo - Part 1
After buying a Euro car last episode, Marty discovers he has not yet found
his perfect vehicle... In this extended episode, we reveal what he got, and
show how to make it faster.
Wanna show the world that you fix your own shizzle? MCM stickers, ti shirts
and other mad shizuoika available here:
Official Site: http://www.mightycarmods.com
Music from the episode is available here:
http://www.mightycarmods.com/collections/music (Forced Induction by MOOG
was featured in this episode)
Also something to note around Mighty Car Mods: we are normal guys and are
not trained mechanics. We like to make interesting car mods and show you
how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you
will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone
else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible
and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious
machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. Talk to a
qualified mechanic if you are in any doubt.