Ford Ignition Switch Actuator (Found in 1992-2014 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Cars and Trucks)
Mustang, Aerostar, Bronco, Crown Victoria, Ford E150, E250, E350, E450, E550, Econoline, Lincoln Town Car, Continental, Navigator, Mercury Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Excursion, Expedition, Explorers, Ford F150, F250, F350, F450 (((Example vehicles based model year and part number search))) PLEASE REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR! Haynes manual says one minute, most people I talk to say 30 minutes, I say the longer the better :-) Parts needed to fix this problem "Ignition Actuator (upper) F2DZ-3E723-A and (lower) FODZ-3E715-A" The steering column I'm repairing is in a 2000 Mustang GT. If your column is different but you use the same part numbers as above then the install will be very similar. (Personal Note) The upper actuator pin broke because it could not push the lower actuator through the column. To replace just the upper will probably mean you have to do this job again in the future :-D www.steeringcolumnservices.com states that "This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks preventing you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure is often misdiagnosed as a bad lock or ignition switch problem. The steel pin falls out of place and will not pull the lower rack and switch. Reinserting the pin only delays the inevitable --- the need to replace the rack gear (it will fall out again)" ( ( ( SHORTCUTS: ) ) ) Quick check to see if this is your problem. Remove covers from around steering column and remove the ignition box from under steering column. Then check lower actuator connection to upper actuator 00:18 How to get it home without a tow truck https://youtu.be/MFAXRw6vyT0?t=34m54s Removing Lower Plastic Dash Cover 01:23 Removing Lower Steel Dash Cover 03:08 Removing Steering Column Covers 03:55 Removing Ignition Switch Tumbler 04:47 Removing The Tilt Steering Lever 06:13 Removing the RFID Anti-theft Device 06:40 Removing the Ignition Box Under the Steering Column 07:50 Removing ? ? Buzzer/Chime Wire ? ? 08:40 Unpluging Clock Spring / Air Bag / .... 08:50 Removing Air Bag 11:08 Removing Turn Signal Switch 12:54 Removing Steering Wheel Screw 14:23 Unpluging Cruise Control & Horn from Clock Spring 15:04 Pulling the Steering Wheel 15:37 ((Repairing Stripped Threads)) https://youtu.be/YUrNBFkFAYE Removing Clock Spring 21:20 Removing Cancel Cam and Upper Steering Column Retainer 22:56 Removing Upper Housing Pivot Bolts, Shift Tube Spring and Steering Column Tolerance Bearing Ring 25:17 Removing the Upper Lock Cylinder Housing 29:20 Removing Ignition/Shifter Interlock Cable 30:34 Removing Lower Coupler and Bearing Retainer 31:29 Removing Lower Steering Housing 32:39 Removing Lower Bearing Retainer 33:22 Removing Lower Actuator 33:59 Making Tool to Remove Upper Lock Cylinder Retainer (GREEN) 34:23 Removing Upper Lock Cylinder Retainer (GREEN) and Actuator 35:02 Lubricating with Lithium Grease and Upper Actuator Install 36:10 Thrush Washer Alignment and (GREEN) Retainer Install 37:37 Installing Lower Actuator and Lubricating 39:38 (((Note: DON'T FORGET TO GREASE THE PIVOT BOLT HOLES TOO!))) Installing Lower Bearing Retainer 42:26 Assembling Upper and Lower Housings Together 42:58 Aligning Upper Actuator with the Key Tumbler 49:15 Column Install in Car 52:24 BE SURE TO UNLOCK THE IGNITION SWITCH! 54:31 Installing Lower Coupler and Bearing Spring 55:10 Installing Ignition/Shifter Interlock Cable 56:24 Proper Location of Turn Signal Harness 57:24 Arranging Harness Plugs and Hand Tighten Rear Nuts 58:15 Installing Tilt Steering Spring 58:54 Install of Tilt Steering Pivot Bolts 100:57 Tightening All Column Mounting Nuts 1:04:31 Installing Upper Housing Bearing Retainer and Lubricating 1:05:37 HOW I GOT THE RETAINING RING ON ! 1:08:36 Installing Cancel Cam / Clock Spring / Harness Plugs / RFID / Blinkers 1:09:49 Installing Ignition Box 1:14:05 Installing Column Covers 1:16:15 Lubricate Install Key Tumbler 1:18:23 Install Steering Wheel / Airbag / Tilt Steering Arm 1:18:54 Connected Battery Testing 1:22:23 Installing Lower Dash Covers 1:24:43 Helpful Links: http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/exploded-views.php http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/92ford.php http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1jy38-turning-key-95-crown-vic-will-push-ign ition-switch.html
My Jeep Won't Crank Over SOLVED
That ignition actuator is only $30 on Amazon HERE: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BYX8W8/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=U TF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B004BYX8W8&linkCode=as2&tag=httpww wyou00f-20 My Jeep Won't Crank Over SOLVED
Ignition switch and ignition actuator replacement
How to remove/replace an ignition switch, ignition actuator, and key cylinder in a 2002 Chrysler PT cruiser.
if your Car/Truck Key won't turn, here is a Quick fix -UNCUT
some ppl have asked to send me a donation for helping them out, thanks all that have donated, anything is appreciated: https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=QJPVE9 UMV8SE4 If your key won't turn or is stuck, no matter how much you wiggle it, turn the steering wheel, or press the brake, then you might want to try this. But use as a last resort, at your own risk. This is pretty common in Jeeps, at first my key wont turn in the ignition, but if I wiggling it a little it will eventually work. I have been doing this for over a year now. Until today, no matter how much I wiggle the key, turn the steering wheel, press the brake, it will not turn. I'm totally locked. So I did some research and found out that it is the lock cylinder that has gone bad and I need to have a local locksmith replace it at a cost of about $120 in parts and $50 in labor. Another option is to tow it to a Jeep dealer and pay over $900 for a entire steering column. OR You can just take a hammer or rubber mallet and hit the end of the key, this will bent the copper latch piece allowing you to start your jeep.