This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price.
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder
head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many
variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from
your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even
disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it
if you're building your own 4g63 head.
The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port
sizes on the intake and Exhaust, and
different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a
6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from
that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are
all the same.
Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port
modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g
head installations on a 1g block.
4g63 Oil Port Modification:
2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block:
Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a
1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
Blueprint 103 - Connecting Rods
Connecting rods are the crux of the engine. They're responsible for
carrying the force of the explosions that occur in the combustion chamber
and using it to turn the crankshaft. Oil clearance specifications of the
"big end" and "small end" are crucial to maintaining consistent oil
In this video we take 3 measurements:
Rod Journal (also called Crank Pin) Diameters
"Big End" Bore diameter
Using the Journal diameters and the "Big End" Bores, you can calculate your
oil clearances of each bearing. The process is illustrated here. Anyone
rebuilding an engine who doesn't know its history should check all of these
clearances whether or not they're re-using the rods. If the crank,
bearings or connecting rods are going to be replaced, it's imperative that
you measure the new parts as well to ensure they're in spec.
4g63 Oil Filter Housings
The link to my website is here BUT THE DATA AND PAGES ARE NOW BEING
CREATED. I couldn't leave you without a video any longer. I really will
have a link here very soon that goes straight to the information. To prove
I'm not bullshittin' you... here's the website. http://www.jafromobile.com
It's full of placeholders and copy I did not write. Though I did not write
it, the author knows me very well! There will be highly-detailed
measurements of all the pieces parts available shortly.
I suppose if there was anything else I needed to say here it would be...
these are the filter housings I got my hands on and tested. They happened
to be from each of the models of the mainstream cars with a 4g63 in the
United States with only one exception (EVO III). There may be variations
from year to year, but to be as specific as I possibly can, read on...
The 91-94 housing I demonstrated is specifically from an early 1992
6-bolt/4-bolt turbo AWD car. The one I
call 95-99 is specifically from an October '94 built 1995 model Eclipse
GSX. One of the '90 OFH's was brand new, and the other one on the Colt
came from a 1990 Plymouth Laser FWD.
The Galant housing I have no data on. I was told that's what it was. It
may actually be from a non-turbo
Eclipse? The 1990 factory service manual has an illustration of this oil
cooler-less unit. I've never paid attention to this in the junkyard and I
haven't owned a NA 4g63. Do the 1g non turbo DSMs even have oil coolers? You guys know
better than me.
The non-turbo oil filter housing is the
least restrictive because it has the longest spring installed depth. The
non-oil-cooler blocks are the no-oil-squirter blocks. Get how these are
similar? You put an oil cooler on this thing and your pressure goes up.
Look at the charts.
Put an external air-oil cooler on a 1g? Your pressure goes up. Put the
Evo III housing on a 2g? Pressure goes DOWN. High oil pressure can result
not just from how you built your motor.
Last thing to say... Yes, you could easily INCREASE your spring installed
height by using a THICKER crush washer. That would lower your pre-load,
opening pressure AND piston travel across the port prior to spring bind.
Could you double-stack crush washers? Probably. Will it leak oil? I'm
sure it will eventually. Either bore the cap deeper or machine a 1 piece
part is my recommendation. Would I try it with stacked crush washers?
Most definitely. Look at what you have to do to remove and port it.
Trans & Clutch 4 - Installing The Clutch
What you wanted to know about clutches but were afraid to ask.
I'm putting a ACT MB1-XTSS on the car in this video. Step height, clutch
dowell pins, bolt part numbers, alignment and various clutch parts are
described in this video. It's part of an all-inclusive drivetrain tech
piece I'm working on that's broken up into sections to maintain focus on
the individual processes involved.
6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts
I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock
rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last
part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old
4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that
good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless
they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show
several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the
short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for
head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit
with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do
is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old
worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these
cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts
making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for
a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if
you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals,
pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is
you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will
be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and
that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor
that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the
"Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters,
rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that
yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets,
seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace
for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a
future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock
doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will
probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit
the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some
parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this
video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope
that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be
re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is
because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus.
There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g
cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But
it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of
torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch
failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from
crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to
death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the
drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had
repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it
right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the
drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains
are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I
may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a
website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be
delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things
like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque
specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to
make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon
you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm
a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped
my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys
because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has
grown, and I feel the need to give back.
Cylinder Head 101 - Remove Cams Rockers & Lifters
Going through a 4g63 Cylinder Head? You're on the right channel. I don't
know how many parts there will be to this series, I suppose it could go on
forever... We all have different ways of doing it, and I'm going to show
This video won't put a dent in most people's grey matter outside of
entertainment value... but I tried to keep it fun. I'd like to leave at
least a small dent. But no music in these because they're going to cover a
lot of ground and fast. I'm not doing anything difficult. This part of
this job really isn't. Most everybody pays someone else to do the
complicated stuff for them, and those people do it every day so it's still
easy unless you earn your money to pay for it from difficult and degrading
But this video's about getting started. There's some safety and
organization tips to be aware of before diving in. Stuff that could help
people whether or not they even own a Mitsubishi. Everything else is in
Blueprint 105 - Main Bearing Oil Clearances
In this episode we measure the bores for the crankshaft and calculate the
oil clearances based off of information gathered in the previous video. If
you subtract the diameter of the crankshaft from the bore diameter, you end
up with your oil clearances.
If this were an assembly with new parts, I would have also paid close
attention to bearing measurements 45° off-centerline just to make sure the
bearings aren't pinched. I would also have double-checked the clearances
using Plastigage. But what I'm doing here is just getting baselines prior
If you're doing a dry assembly like this, DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT.
Without oil, there is nothing preventing it from being damaged.
Blueprint 101 - Using Micrometers, Calipers, & Bore Gauges
If you're going to rebuild an engine, this video is required material.
None of your measurements mean anything if they're not accurate. I
illustrate the calibration and use of 3 major tools needed for taking
measurements, and a brief demonstration of how they work. These are by no
means the ONLY ways to use or calibrate these tools. This is simply the
method I will employ to measure parts in later videos so this instruction
doesn't distract from their intended messages. Even if you're familiar
with these tools, you may find something useful here, or even be able to
correct me and my rusty skills.
Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission
This is the first in a multi-video series regarding clutch tech. The
clutch itself is a simple mechanism, but it's buried deep in the engine, so
you can't just cover the clutch. First, you have to cover how to remove
the transmission to get to it.
This project started off strange, got kind-of not-good, and then took a
turn for the worst. The typical clutch job is not as difficult as the next
video will display, but it's good this happened to me because I film this
kind of crap. If for some asinine reason you encounter the kind of failure
I experienced, you'll know what to do after the next video. Clutch
assembly will be covered in a third video.
About the car:
You saw the other assembly video. You know when I put this thing together.
You know it doesn't come out to play when it's cloudy. I've had it on the
road less than an earl change. Freshly rebuilt TRE Stage 2.5 trans with a
brand new ACT 2600 and a sprung 6-puck (MB1-XTG6) on a stock flywheel.
This is Transmission #4.
DIY Fuel Injector Cleaning & Repair
This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have
a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than
$40. The BG products were donated to the cause.
The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold
type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a
peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with
only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer
explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its
operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you
don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your
expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't
be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't
try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you
open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can
throw at it.
I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally
cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary.
In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to
know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even
greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to
help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used
parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap,
demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't
even know what they were looking at.
This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and
how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new
set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good
Cylinder Head 107 - 4G63 HLA Lifter Tech
I have all 3 revisions of the DSM lifters in this video. This will help
you identify which ones are in your cylinder head, as well as illustrate
the cleaning process, and each lifters' advantages and disadvantages.
WHEN you finally have to perform maintenance on these lifters, they're a
bigger pain than a solid lift valvetrain is (ONCE). BUT if you follow the
service schedule on a solid lift valvetrain, HLA's are a smaller pain
You'll never need feeler gauges to adjust these hydraulic lifters, and
you'll never need to know their gap. You can't adjust them. You'll just
know whether or not they're good by the amount of noise they make. 3
things can cause trouble with them. Clogged lifters, insufficient oil
pressure, or insufficient oil volume.
So before you sail your oil pump down the river, you can follow the steps
in this video to rule out the first variable. You can actually remove and
re-install them without taking the timing belt or camshafts out, but that
will be another video. Chances are you already know this. The second and
third potential issues COULD be your oil pump, but for your oil light isn't
on and if there's ever been machine work in its past history to either the
head or the block, I explain in "Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech" what a
frequently-overlooked part of the cylinder head is that could be a
contributor to the issue. That link is in the video.
I MENTIONED ANOTHER COOL VIDEO: it was here...
Thank that author as well. He did a great job! I don't know the guy and
claim no credit to his work, I'm just giving him a shout-out.
Polishing a 2g GSX 4g63 Turbo cylinder head & manifold
The stainless steel manifold had never been polished, but the nice thing
about stainless is you don't have to do all the prep-sanding that you do
with Aluminum before being able to polish it. Aluminum takes 10x the
effort with sanding than it does to polish. Fortunately I had already done
all of that to the head and coolant neck back in '05, so all it needed was
black rouge to come back to life. Stainless is much more corrosion
resistant, but tends to blue itself with heat over time. I think it
cleaned up pretty well!
4g63 Oil System
This is another installment about 6 & 7 bolt 4g63 oil systems. It's where
the oil flows and when. If you see signs of oil starvation on engine
parts, it's important to note what is up-stream and down-stream from it in
the oil supply. Knowing where the oil flows helps you determine what went
wrong. Chasing damage up-stream on the oil system can reveal defects,
stuck oil squirters, failed bearings or blockages in the oil galleries. It
can also reveal perfectly good parts which means you've gone too far
looking for the problem. This is how you determine what really failed, and
why it's important to consider how tight or wide to set your oil
clearances, and how popular modifications can affect your oil system.
About the charts... keep your pants on. I will make them available. Until
then, they're right here in this video. ;)