This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price.
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front
cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for.
Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the
factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause,
and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without
the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.
Cylinder Head Re-Polish
UPDATE: INgrooves and Believe Digital have filed fraudulent strikes
against my YouTube Channel for this video. They do not respond to
disputes. If my disputes expire without first being dismissed by these
labels, I will never remove this text because others deserve to know about
the copyright abuse of the recording industry. Record labels file claims
on YouTube to content they don't own because they want to steal other
people's creative property, install their own advertising, and profit from
works they had nothing to do with creating whatsoever. It's their new
business model. They are doing to the public what they've been accusing
the public of for decades.
They and the artists they represent can not legally stake any claim against
my audio content as it was created 100% with loops owned and provided
ROYALTY-FREE by Apple Computer, Inc. These USAGE RIGHTS come with the
PURCHASE of Logic Pro Studio. APPLE INC. RESERVES OWNERSHIP RIGHTS of this
royalty-free content used to produce my audio track, not the artists that
these entities have fraudulently submitted for waveform scanning to the
Content ID system. The license agreement can be found here:
Anyone claiming ownership of any part of this video other than Apple, Inc.
is committing fraud. Blocking my monetization is harassment. A DMCA
violation would be extortion. I composed and recorded this song. It's my
original composition. I own ALL THE RIGHTS to the content in this video,
the equipment used to produce it, and possess the receipt, packaging and
printed license agreement included with all of the products used in this
4 other un-named labels have also filed claims on this one video. 2 were
dismissed within hours of submitting the dispute, 2 required more than 2
weeks of digging through public web forums until someone provided me their
private email addresses and it still required several emails. The two
remaining have completely ignored their responsibility to respond to the
dispute process, which takes 30 days to expire. One of them will be
immortalized here permanently as of October 10th, 2013.
YouTube is not taking adequate measures to ensure the record labels own the
materials they submit for waveform scanning. YouTube does not provide
contact information to YouTube partners for any of these entities who file
fraudulent content ID claims and then ignore disputes. YouTube does not
remove the works submitted by record labels that include public domain,
royalty free, fair use or licensed samples. It appears they don't do any
screening of the works submitted by the labels. YouTube needs to fix these
issues for the sake of your quality entertainment because uploaders are
suffering from the lack of these features, and this kind of e-bullying will
stop channels from producing and uploading quality original content for you
to watch. Time I spend disputing claims and ownership rights is time I'm
not wrenching, filming and editing. The recording industry has devolved
into a waste of everyone's time. Their usefulness in modern media
distribution has driven them to these desperate measures to remain relevant
and profitable. Now they just resort to harassing other self-made artists
that they don't represent over content they don't own.
Hey, you know this is just one of those extraneous things I have to do that
takes time. This car won trophies for this, and it has a reputation to
When we're putting this thing back together, there's a certain order I have
to do things in. Polishing comes before the final cleaning and parts
installation. After that, it never ends.
This is purely cosmetic. I created the soundtrack using Logic Pro.
Because I can. It's mine.
Turbo Elantra Bearing Failure Diagnosis
I had time to look at this thing up close. Go through the oil system, and
check out all the bearings. Looks like another good study for my oil
system series because it's the opposite problem that my GSX experienced.
High oil pressure can be remedied a number of ways, but left unchecked can
actually take a toll on your bearings. The way your engine bearings work,
the parts they suspend are supported only by an oil film layer, and flow
needs to be right in order for it to work as an actual bearing. If the oil
supply is insufficient, then it loses the ability to suspend the part
causing it to crash into the bearing surface. If oil flow is too great,
friction is increased, the flow becomes turbulent, and the oil film doesn't
form properly. High oil pressure can float and spin rod bearings, and
that's worst-case scenario.
I had several un-favorable conditions going on inside this engine and that
makes it a little bit difficult to link what my engine experienced to any
one singular thing. I think it's easier to look at it like some sort of
From sub-standard parts for how the engine components would be used, to oil
pressure, to part fatigue, to part history to abuse... this thing's got a
little bit of everything working against it and that's why it's such a
hilarious car. It was given to me with one condition. "See what this
thing will do, and see how long it goes before it breaks." My take on it
is, the parts are still less than ideal, and they've still got life left in
them. It's worth fixing. These parts are worthless as a race motor, and
normally I'd have junked 'em, but it's the Hyundai.
Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an
original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate.
My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I
do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again.
Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead
and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings
will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a
hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first.
The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows:
Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust
and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral
spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale.
The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence
happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from
powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If
following these instructions to the letter of the law.
Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine.
You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm
not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I
don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the
windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down
This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the
same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent.
You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY
CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in
this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that
I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm
learning about it just like the rest of you.
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder
head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many
variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from
your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even
disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it
if you're building your own 4g63 head.
The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port
sizes on the intake and Exhaust, and
different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a
6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from
that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are
all the same.
Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port
modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g
head installations on a 1g block.
4g63 Oil Port Modification:
2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block:
Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a
1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car
from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of
scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket
performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by
traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to
stick before encountering this.
More on this build...
The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from
Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from
Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget
was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and
it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video.
I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I
could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid
half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides.
Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the
pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water
pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is
an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore
6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion
chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The
radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk
car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my
150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This
is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because
of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the
chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just
that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when
they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful.
Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be
changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the
plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing
anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have
anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that
way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these
generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to
the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough.
In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the
breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in
the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch
harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil
pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and
this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil
pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a
restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing
lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
Blueprint 108 - inspect the deck
There's a reason why there are no subtitled specifications in this video
for the block. It's because they don't exist in either service manual, 1g
or 2g. You're not supposed to remove material from a block on the deck
surface because it has ill effects on parts of the combustion chamber
geometry, and alters your compression ratio. It can be done intentionally
in some cases for a desired side-affect, but if you have to deck a 4g63
head, it would be advised to use a thicker head gasket. The Mitsubishi
Multi-Layered-Steel or MLS gasket is slightly thicker than the OEM
composite gasket. Also, HKS, Power Enterprise, Cometic, and other
performance brands all make MLS gaskets that are .065 and thicker.
THERE IS ONE ERROR IN THE VIDEO. I said a block with .002" warpage is
junk. I was completely and totally wrong. While I don't wish to spread
misinformation, I don't think it's a big enough error to warrant re-editing
this video. I just wasn't paying attention. .002" warpage on a cylinder
head is the service limit before it needs machining. I meant to say
.02"... or two HUNDREDTHS (not thousandths) of an inch.
...and here's my justification...
A warped block to me is junk either way even if its minimal because your
MLS gasket will never seal unless both the head and the block are perfectly
flat. Trust your machine shop to get the values for how much is taken off,
and buy the correct thickness gasket for your machine work.
A factory head gasket (composite) is .051"
The MLS Mitsubishi gasket is available in the stock .051 and a .062"
Cometic makes gaskets up to .072"
There are some brands that go as high as .127", but I'd have thrown both
the block and head away long before then.
4G63 Datsun 1200 - Jett Racing
Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo powered Datsun
1200 Ute by Jett Racing. Racing in the Pro Compact class at the 2012 Sport
Compact Brisbane Jamboree.
Get your track gear!
Follow us on social media @
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average
4g63 Block Cleanup & Oil System Mods
With no data other than another person's testimony and from observing the
condition of failed rod bearings I was able to determine this engine
suffered problems from high oil pressure. There are 3 modifications that
wanted to perform to its oil system, and 2 parts I chose to replace. All
of the videos that go into greater detail about these modifications and
parts are linked from this video. Though I've covered these topics, this
is a video of the work being done to the Hyundai because it's part of its
Also in the process I've stripped and removed all gaskets in preparation
for parts washing. All of these tasks can be completed without an air
compressor by taking your time with a razor blade or using electric
grinding tools. If you're doing this kind of work, I strongly suggest for
time's sake that you use an air compressor. If you have access to an air
compressor and any of these [cheap] tools, then you can do these kinds of
modifications for less than $20. NAPA sells everything but the spudger
(below) individually so there's no need to buy these consumable supplies in
3m bristle discs:
I used this cleaning up the oil pan. It's a spudger. An electronics tool.
I also used 3m Scotch Brite wheels to clean the oil pan's gasket surface.
Driveshaft 103 - Replacing carrier bearings
This is the easy stage of the job. Pulling and replacing carrier bearings
is actually fun, too. You get to rip them to pieces with little risk of
personal injury. If they've been rattling your teeth out for a while,
you're going to enjoy getting even with them.
So many people are scared of the Lobro joint, but I assure you, unless you
couldn't build anything out of Lego's as a child, you're not going to have
any trouble with it. It's an amazingly simple part held in with 6 bolts, a
clamp, and a snap ring. If it comes apart, so long as you know where
everything goes, it will go back together. Don't worry.
This video shows you how to replace carrier bearings whether your Lobro
joint is healthy or not.