Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification

This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video. The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price. Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up. So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that. The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.


 


More Videos...


6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for. Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause, and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.





Turbo Elantra Bearing Failure Diagnosis
I had time to look at this thing up close. Go through the oil system, and check out all the bearings. Looks like another good study for my oil system series because it's the opposite problem that my GSX experienced. High oil pressure can be remedied a number of ways, but left unchecked can actually take a toll on your bearings. The way your engine bearings work, the parts they suspend are supported only by an oil film layer, and flow needs to be right in order for it to work as an actual bearing. If the oil supply is insufficient, then it loses the ability to suspend the part causing it to crash into the bearing surface. If oil flow is too great, friction is increased, the flow becomes turbulent, and the oil film doesn't form properly. High oil pressure can float and spin rod bearings, and that's worst-case scenario. I had several un-favorable conditions going on inside this engine and that makes it a little bit difficult to link what my engine experienced to any one singular thing. I think it's easier to look at it like some sort of perfect storm. From sub-standard parts for how the engine components would be used, to oil pressure, to part fatigue, to part history to abuse... this thing's got a little bit of everything working against it and that's why it's such a hilarious car. It was given to me with one condition. "See what this thing will do, and see how long it goes before it breaks." My take on it is, the parts are still less than ideal, and they've still got life left in them. It's worth fixing. These parts are worthless as a race motor, and normally I'd have junked 'em, but it's the Hyundai.





4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can. This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way. I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness. Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM oil system over the years. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/452546-4g63-block-oili ng-mod.html





Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II. For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Sirius_engine There's also this at EvolutionM: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/278462-official-hyundai-2-4l-g4js -4g64-thread.html Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches. Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either. There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video. I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any real information floating around in the forums about this yet. The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into. Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either one of those requires skill.





三菱 ランサーエボリューション4G63エンジン モンスタースポーツ コンプリートエンジン【MX350】作業解説 [MONSTER SPORT MITSUBISHI EVO TUNED Eg]
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/tajimastore/c/0000000162/ http://www.monster-sport.com/product/parts/complete_eng/ http://www.monster-sport.com/e/car/evo10.html 三菱のスポーツエンジン4G63を、多くのモータースポー 用エンジンに携わり、エンジンの研究・実験により得 ノウハウと、高度に標準化した品質管理と工程管理の でコンプリートエンジン化しました。





Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's cylinder head. In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock second-generation head that I didn't port. In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker. The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400 box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video. My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on a flow bench, I would. There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's sweet spot. Why the Lovell factor is important: https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3346/the-effect-of-valve-size Lovell gas factor calculator: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate, and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say, they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance, and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!





4G63 Datsun 1200 - Jett Racing
Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo powered Datsun 1200 Ute by Jett Racing. Racing in the Pro Compact class at the 2012 Sport Compact Brisbane Jamboree. http://www.facebook.com/fullBoostcomau http://www.youtube.com/user/fullBoostcomau http://www.fullBoost.com.au





Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else on YouTube. THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented access to your facilities. A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all 3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30, 45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between their faces. My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves. Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and a bigger valve. Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head: I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.





Eclipse GSX Complete build in HD - 400awhp
A 7 month build in 26 minutes! A MUST SEE! Bolt-on Modifications: K&N filter element / FP Cast aluminum intake tube / Old school FP green turbo / FP turbo oil filter / Greedy electronic Boost controller / Apexi FMIC and short route steel hard pipes with Extreme PSI silicon couplers and T-clamps / External 38mm Tial wastegate / Tial BOV / Walbro 255 fuel pump / B&M fpr / 660cc Denzo injectors / BJ's polished SMIM / Stock TB / NGK 7mm spark wires / NGK spark plugs / turbo Back 3'' Megan Racing Exhaust / Megan Racing o2 housing / Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit / RRE Oil Catch Can / RRE Prothane Motor Mounts / Optima red top battery / RRE black silicon vacuum lines / Fluidamper harmonic balancer Engine Management: DSM link v3 on Speed Density / Auto meter Cobalt Boost, Egt, Oil pressure gauges / Apexi turbo Timer / Innovative MTX-L wideband gauge Engine Internals: 6 bolt longblock swap, build by English Racing / Wiseco HD 1400 Forged Pistons 9:1 compression / Eagle H-Beam Rods / ARP Head Studs / OEM Crank / ACL Race Bearings / Head upgraded with GSC valve springs, TI retainers, Chromoly seats, Supertech valves with the 4-angle intake valve grind and the 4-angle radius Exhaust valve grind / HKS 272 intake and Exhaust cams / HKS adjustable cam gears / Cosmetic hg / Drivetrain Modifications: ACT 6 Pad Spring Race Disk #6224704 / ACT Extreme Pressure Plate #MB010X / Stock Flywheel / Braided Stainless steel clutch line / OEM throw out bearing / Sheppard Stage 4 Transmission, with Evo III first gear and input shaft, EVO III fifth gear, 4-spider center differential, New Shep Trans Spec 2nd Gear, New 1-2 Hub/Sleeve kit with Double Synchro Rings, New 5th Gear Synchro Rings, New 1-2-3-4- 5-R Synchro Springs, New Input, Output, and both Drive Shaft Seals, New Input Shaft Bearings, New Intermediate Gear Bearings, New Roll Pins, New End Nuts, New Center Diff Side Shims, New Nylon Shifter Pad, Shims for setting preload, New double Synchro 3rd and 4th gear, Double 3-4 Synchros, New Intermediate Shaft, Heavy Duty Shift Rails, Upgraded Rare Earth Magnet, Bead Blasted Case Suspension Modifications: Totika springs and shocks / Megan Racing front and rear strut bars / RRE Front camber correction kit / Les Schwab Rear camber correction plates Interior Modifications: Sparco 5pt harness on driver and passenger side / Cross seatbelt roll bar Specs • Power 399.38 AWHP and 319.43 TQ @ 26psi / English Racing AWD Dyno Jet 3/6/2012 • Redline: 8000rpm • Weight: 3220lbs Full Weight 5/9/2011





Jafro's GSX Build Parts - 1gina2g
Some advice and expectations about the parts acquisition process. Cars only get built in a week on TV. And still then you have to take their word for it. The ones that actually do it have a 20 man full-time crew, and therefore; they have no excuse for not having it done yet. We don't have that. Stuff takes time. I'm not building a car to sell it. There's a whole lot of parts in this video. Whole lot of parts. Rather than spend a ton of space babbling incessantly, this is what you came here for. Part numbers. Meat. This isn't an all-inclusive list of parts for a rebuild. It's what YouTube let me fit. I hope you find what you needed. If not, hang tight. Help is on the way. Shoutout to Sirnixalot in the Cayman Islands for this thread about valvetrain part weights: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/393646-evo3-evo8- valvetrain-weight-comparison-inside.html 6-bolt fasteners: MF140202 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Flange M6 x 10 (2qty) MD012109 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Washer Assembled 6 x 16 (2qty) MF140202 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6 x 10 (4qty) MD167134 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (2qty) Flange M6 x 8 MD097012 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (17qty) Flange M6x10 MD131417 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6x16 MD040557 - Bolt, Flywheel (6qty) M12x22.5 MS401451 - Stud, M10 x 28 Cylinder Block MD065945 - Plug, Cylinder Block Screw (balance shaft) MS240211 - Bolt, Crankshaft Pulley Washer Assembled M8x25 (4qty) MD129350 - Bolt, Timing Belt Tensioner (2qty) M8x51 MD129354 - Bolt, Timing Belt Train M10x33 Happy Face Bolt MF140062 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M10x30 MF140225 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x20 (4qty) MF140227 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x25 MF140233 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x40 MF241266 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x65 MF241261 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x40 (2qty) MF241268 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x75 MF241264 - Bolt, Washer Assembled M8x55 MF140021 - Bolt, Cooling Water Line Flange M8x12 MF241256 - Bolt, M/T Clutch Slave Cylinder Washer Assembled M8x28 MD718549 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x130 (3qty) MF241319 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x70 (4qty) MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60 MD108474 - Bolt, Starter Flange M10x65 (2qty) MF140266 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x40 (2qty) MD740892 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x43.5 MF140471 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x65 MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60 MF140021 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x12 6-bolt Rear Main Seal Housing: MF140205 - Bolt, Cylinder Block Flange M6 x 16 (5qty) Rear Oil Seal Case MD040330 - Case, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal MD040332 - Oil Separator Crakshaft rear oil seal MF472403 - Pin Cylinder Block Dowel 6x14mm (2qty) MD183243 - Gasket, Rear Oil Seal Case 7-bolt Rear Main Seal Case MD172170* * oil separator ring only required on 6-bolt cars, same oil seal, different gasket. Throttle Body Gasket: 8903.1-9006.1 MD125822 1g 9006.2-9207.3 MD146399 1g (AC60-653) 9208.1-9405.1 MD194578 1g 9401.1-9907.2 MD180360 all 2g cars (MD1) Intake Elbow Gasket: 8903.1-9207.3 MD340327 1g 9208.1-9405.1 MD194827 1g 9401.1-9907.2 MD302262 all 2g cars MD307343 - OE Valve Stem Seals (16qty) MD087060 - OE Fuel Injector Insulator (4qty) MD614813 - OE Fuel Injector O-Ring (4qty) MD181032 - Gasket, Exhaust Manifold 1g/2g (standard) MD188995 - Gasket, 1g Intake Manifold MD192031 - Gasket, 2g Intake Manifold MD183808 - Gasket, Standard Composite Head Gasket 89-99 MD069879 - 1g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit MD177572 - 2g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit MD310606 - 1g/2g alternator belt 985mm MD186124 - 1g/2g alternator belt 980mm MD186784 - 1g/2g Valve Cover Gasket MD186785 - 1g/2g Spark Plug Well Gaskets (4qty) MN119896 - 1g tensioner arm MD170402 - 2g tensioner arm MD997608 - 1g thermostat kit MD315301 - 2g Thermostat Kit MD141510 - 1g Knock Sensor MD300670 - 2g Knock Sensor MD133273 - 1g/2g Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor MD091056 - 1g/2g Coolant Temperature Switch MD095656 - 6 bolt clutch cover plate MD191171 - 7 bolt clutch cover plate MD178430 - 1g Power Steering Belt MD310617 - 2g Power Steering Belt MD311638 - Oil filter cap gasket MD343564 - Oil Seal, Crankshaft Rear MD030764 - O-ring, Cooling Water Pipe 33.4mm MD375091 - EVO 8 Rocker Arm





Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and materials will be used. SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track. Oil Pan Bolts 18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109 2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will work) 1g Front Case Bolts qty/GR/DIA/length/torque/part# 4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225 1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227 1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt) 1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt) 1g oil pump housing bolts 5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw) 1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt) Oil Pump Sprocket Nut 1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite 1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH) 2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261 1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225 1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264 1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266 1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts 5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt) 5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt) 1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts 2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt) 2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt) 1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt 1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt 1 x x x x MD129421 Washer Flywheel bolts 6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars) 7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos) * Part substitution # 2795A956 Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer 1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT 1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofWnFXkix3w For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my 4g63 Timing Belt Parts video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BN7TOVrkUNQ In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPhyazI1fYc For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter Housings video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X88tw1UFs_M





HOW TO NOT FAIL! "Gravity Trick" Hyundai Mitsubishi timing belt info!
How to keep your engine from vibrating your teeth out! Important Hyundai and Mitsubishi dsm balance shaft info not mentioned in manual. Don't do timing belt on your Mitsubishi or Hyundai without watching this first! This video explains how to orient your balance shafts when doing timing belt job.





KS Tuned Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install
The KAIZENSPEED Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit includes all the necessary parts to cleanly eliminate your balance shafts for ALL H-series and F-series engines! Our full kit includes: -Billet aluminum blockoff plate -Billet aluminum crankshaft spacer -All necessary plugs to maintain and increase oil pressure by blocking balance shaft bearings (without removing them) -Billet aluminum plugs for the oil pump -Step-by-step illustrated instructions Contact us @ (509) 585-0900 for ANY questions. *Uses OEM Honda oil pump





New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to stick before encountering this. More on this build... The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video. I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides. Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore 6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my 150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful. Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough. In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.





How To Recharge an AC System - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ Finding leaks video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95RdGLFIbL8 Basics of AC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w17DpGCcRj8 AC Performance Test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU_A4wNuHXI AC pressures: http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/ AC pressures 2: http://www.idqusa.com/faqs.php?faq=74&faq_id=74&category_id=18 As I said in the video you need to be responsible when dealing with refrigerant, also in some locations it's not legal for you to perform your own AC work so keep that in mind and observe your local laws. --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





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