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4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification

This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video. The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price. Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up. So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that. The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.


 


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6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for. Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause, and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.





Cylinder Head Re-Polish
UPDATE: INgrooves and Believe Digital have filed fraudulent strikes against my YouTube Channel for this video. They do not respond to disputes. If my disputes expire without first being dismissed by these labels, I will never remove this text because others deserve to know about the copyright abuse of the recording industry. Record labels file claims on YouTube to content they don't own because they want to steal other people's creative property, install their own advertising, and profit from works they had nothing to do with creating whatsoever. It's their new business model. They are doing to the public what they've been accusing the public of for decades. They and the artists they represent can not legally stake any claim against my audio content as it was created 100% with loops owned and provided ROYALTY-FREE by Apple Computer, Inc. These USAGE RIGHTS come with the PURCHASE of Logic Pro Studio. APPLE INC. RESERVES OWNERSHIP RIGHTS of this royalty-free content used to produce my audio track, not the artists that these entities have fraudulently submitted for waveform scanning to the Content ID system. The license agreement can be found here: http://www.apple.com/legal/sla/docs/logicstudio8.pdf Anyone claiming ownership of any part of this video other than Apple, Inc. is committing fraud. Blocking my monetization is harassment. A DMCA violation would be extortion. I composed and recorded this song. It's my original composition. I own ALL THE RIGHTS to the content in this video, the equipment used to produce it, and possess the receipt, packaging and printed license agreement included with all of the products used in this video's creation. 4 other un-named labels have also filed claims on this one video. 2 were dismissed within hours of submitting the dispute, 2 required more than 2 weeks of digging through public web forums until someone provided me their private email addresses and it still required several emails. The two remaining have completely ignored their responsibility to respond to the dispute process, which takes 30 days to expire. One of them will be immortalized here permanently as of October 10th, 2013. YouTube is not taking adequate measures to ensure the record labels own the materials they submit for waveform scanning. YouTube does not provide contact information to YouTube partners for any of these entities who file fraudulent content ID claims and then ignore disputes. YouTube does not remove the works submitted by record labels that include public domain, royalty free, fair use or licensed samples. It appears they don't do any screening of the works submitted by the labels. YouTube needs to fix these issues for the sake of your quality entertainment because uploaders are suffering from the lack of these features, and this kind of e-bullying will stop channels from producing and uploading quality original content for you to watch. Time I spend disputing claims and ownership rights is time I'm not wrenching, filming and editing. The recording industry has devolved into a waste of everyone's time. Their usefulness in modern media distribution has driven them to these desperate measures to remain relevant and profitable. Now they just resort to harassing other self-made artists that they don't represent over content they don't own. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------- Hey, you know this is just one of those extraneous things I have to do that takes time. This car won trophies for this, and it has a reputation to maintain. When we're putting this thing back together, there's a certain order I have to do things in. Polishing comes before the final cleaning and parts installation. After that, it never ends. This is purely cosmetic. I created the soundtrack using Logic Pro. Because I can. It's mine.





7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability. In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent. But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bE_9sWtnSY&list=PL4B97C16D423317DD Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame crankwalk. It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on your bank account. Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque. Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going back on the shelf. Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/5150/csi_engine_bearings_when_good_ bearings_go_bad.aspx http://catalog.mahleclevite.com/bearing/ http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Bearings/CL77-3-402.pdf And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever... Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing. DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault. You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis. Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the same parts failed. PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your car.





Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate. My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again. Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first. The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows: Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale. The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If following these instructions to the letter of the law. Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine. You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down there. This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent. You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm learning about it just like the rest of you.





New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to stick before encountering this. More on this build... The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video. I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides. Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore 6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my 150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful. Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough. In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.





Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO! We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC. If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through 11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections. You gotta do the cooking by the book. I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts. You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how and why I do things the way I do when I get there. This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a Hollywood movie.





How to port and polish a turbo exhaust housing
I'll fill this in later. The "book" I typed in this field before didn't save. Come back later if you want to read more about the theories behind porting and polishing.





Blueprint 108 - inspect the deck
There's a reason why there are no subtitled specifications in this video for the block. It's because they don't exist in either service manual, 1g or 2g. You're not supposed to remove material from a block on the deck surface because it has ill effects on parts of the combustion chamber geometry, and alters your compression ratio. It can be done intentionally in some cases for a desired side-affect, but if you have to deck a 4g63 head, it would be advised to use a thicker head gasket. The Mitsubishi Multi-Layered-Steel or MLS gasket is slightly thicker than the OEM composite gasket. Also, HKS, Power Enterprise, Cometic, and other performance brands all make MLS gaskets that are .065 and thicker. THERE IS ONE ERROR IN THE VIDEO. I said a block with .002" warpage is junk. I was completely and totally wrong. While I don't wish to spread misinformation, I don't think it's a big enough error to warrant re-editing this video. I just wasn't paying attention. .002" warpage on a cylinder head is the service limit before it needs machining. I meant to say .02"... or two HUNDREDTHS (not thousandths) of an inch. ...and here's my justification... A warped block to me is junk either way even if its minimal because your MLS gasket will never seal unless both the head and the block are perfectly flat. Trust your machine shop to get the values for how much is taken off, and buy the correct thickness gasket for your machine work. A factory head gasket (composite) is .051" The MLS Mitsubishi gasket is available in the stock .051 and a .062" Cometic makes gaskets up to .072" There are some brands that go as high as .127", but I'd have thrown both the block and head away long before then.





Driveshaft 103 - Replacing carrier bearings
This is the easy stage of the job. Pulling and replacing carrier bearings is actually fun, too. You get to rip them to pieces with little risk of personal injury. If they've been rattling your teeth out for a while, you're going to enjoy getting even with them. So many people are scared of the Lobro joint, but I assure you, unless you couldn't build anything out of Lego's as a child, you're not going to have any trouble with it. It's an amazingly simple part held in with 6 bolts, a clamp, and a snap ring. If it comes apart, so long as you know where everything goes, it will go back together. Don't worry. This video shows you how to replace carrier bearings whether your Lobro joint is healthy or not.





Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it if you're building your own 4g63 head. The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port sizes on the intake and Exhaust, and different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a 6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are all the same. Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g head installations on a 1g block. 4g63 Oil Port Modification: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod .html 2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/341885-oil-port-m od-2-4g63t-2.html Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a 1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil system.





4G63 Datsun 1200 - Jett Racing
Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo powered Datsun 1200 Ute by Jett Racing. Racing in the Pro Compact class at the 2012 Sport Compact Brisbane Jamboree. http://www.facebook.com/fullBoostcomau http://www.youtube.com/user/fullBoostcomau http://www.fullBoost.com.au





Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and materials will be used. SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track. Oil Pan Bolts 18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109 2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will work) 1g Front Case Bolts qty/GR/DIA/length/torque/part# 4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225 1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227 1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt) 1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt) 1g oil pump housing bolts 5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw) 1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt) Oil Pump Sprocket Nut 1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite 1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH) 2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261 1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225 1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264 1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266 1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts 5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt) 5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt) 1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts 2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt) 2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt) 1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt 1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt 1 x x x x MD129421 Washer Flywheel bolts 6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars) 7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos) * Part substitution # 2795A956 Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer 1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT 1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofWnFXkix3w For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my 4g63 Timing Belt Parts video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BN7TOVrkUNQ In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPhyazI1fYc For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter Housings video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X88tw1UFs_M





Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II. For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Sirius_engine There's also this at EvolutionM: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/278462-official-hyundai-2-4l-g4js -4g64-thread.html Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches. Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either. There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video. I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any real information floating around in the forums about this yet. The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into. Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either one of those requires skill.





97 Eclipse GSX Complete build in HD - 400awhp
A 7 month build in 26 minutes! A MUST SEE! Bolt-on Modifications: K&N filter element / FP Cast aluminum intake tube / Old school FP green turbo / FP turbo oil filter / Greedy electronic Boost controller / Apexi FMIC and short route steel hard pipes with Extreme PSI silicon couplers and T-clamps / External 38mm Tial wastegate / Tial BOV / Walbro 255 fuel pump / B&M fpr / 660cc Denzo injectors / BJ's polished SMIM / Stock TB / NGK 7mm spark wires / NGK spark plugs / turbo Back 3'' Megan Racing Exhaust / Megan Racing o2 housing / Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit / RRE Oil Catch Can / RRE Prothane Motor Mounts / Optima red top battery / RRE black silicon vacuum lines / Fluidamper harmonic balancer Engine Management: DSM link v3 on Speed Density / Auto meter Cobalt Boost, Egt, Oil pressure gauges / Apexi turbo Timer / Innovative MTX-L wideband gauge Engine Internals: 6 bolt longblock swap, build by English Racing / Wiseco HD 1400 Forged Pistons 9:1 compression / Eagle H-Beam Rods / ARP Head Studs / OEM Crank / ACL Race Bearings / Head upgraded with GSC valve springs, TI retainers, Chromoly seats, Supertech valves with the 4-angle intake valve grind and the 4-angle radius Exhaust valve grind / HKS 272 intake and Exhaust cams / HKS adjustable cam gears / Cosmetic hg / Drivetrain Modifications: ACT 6 Pad Spring Race Disk #6224704 / ACT Extreme Pressure Plate #MB010X / Stock Flywheel / Braided Stainless steel clutch line / OEM throw out bearing / Sheppard Stage 4 Transmission, with Evo III first gear and input shaft, EVO III fifth gear, 4-spider center differential, New Shep Trans Spec 2nd Gear, New 1-2 Hub/Sleeve kit with Double Synchro Rings, New 5th Gear Synchro Rings, New 1-2-3-4- 5-R Synchro Springs, New Input, Output, and both Drive Shaft Seals, New Input Shaft Bearings, New Intermediate Gear Bearings, New Roll Pins, New End Nuts, New Center Diff Side Shims, New Nylon Shifter Pad, Shims for setting preload, New double Synchro 3rd and 4th gear, Double 3-4 Synchros, New Intermediate Shaft, Heavy Duty Shift Rails, Upgraded Rare Earth Magnet, Bead Blasted Case Suspension Modifications: Totika springs and shocks / Megan Racing front and rear strut bars / RRE Front camber correction kit / Les Schwab Rear camber correction plates Interior Modifications: Sparco 5pt harness on driver and passenger side / Cross seatbelt roll bar Specs • Power 399.38 AWHP and 319.43 TQ @ 26psi / English Racing AWD Dyno Jet 3/6/2012 • Redline: 8000rpm • Weight: 3220lbs Full Weight 5/9/2011





三菱 ランサーエボリューション4G63エンジン モンスタースポーツ コンプリートエンジン【MX350】作業解説 [MONSTER SPORT MITSUBISHI EVO TUNED Eg]
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/tajimastore/c/0000000162/ http://www.monster-sport.com/product/parts/complete_eng/ http://www.monster-sport.com/e/car/evo10.html 三菱のスポーツエンジン4G63を、多くのモータースポー 用エンジンに携わり、エンジンの研究・実験により得 ノウハウと、高度に標準化した品質管理と工程管理の でコンプリートエンジン化しました。





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