How to Build a Copper "Moonshine" Still - Part 1

This video on building copper distillation equipment covers tools and safety. Safety: Always use gloves, safety goggles, and a VOC mask. Also, make sure you work in a well ventilated area. Tools: To build the copper still featured in this video, you'll need locking pliers or a clamp of some sort, a hammer (preferably ball peen), a mace / dolly, anvil, sledge hammer, or some sort of scrap metal to hammer against, and a stiff wire brush or some sand paper. Additionally, you'll need a plumbing torch. Regular propane will do. MAP gas is not necessary. Also, oxy acetylene is overkill. Don't use it unless you are a skilled metal worker because it could damage your copper still. This how to make a copper "moonshine" still video series runs through the process of building 5 and 10 gallon Clawhammer Supply copper "moonshine" stills ( Or, for more info, feel free to call (970.541.0569) or send us an email at Thanks!

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How to Build A Copper "Moonshine Still" - Part 2
This video series on building a copper "moonshine" still runs through the process of building 5 gallon and 10 gallon moonshine stills by Clawhammer Supply ( First, use a wire brush or some sandpaper and score the edges that will be soldered. This includes the "teeth" at the bottom edge of the boiler and the seam where the rivet holes are located. If the edges are not roughed up at this stage, it will be difficult to get solder to stick to the material. This step is not shown in the video, but it is very important. Next, the "teeth" on the boiler must be bent perpendicular to the copper still boiler. They will form a ledge that the still bottom will sit on, once the boiler has been built. The closer to a 90 degree angle the teeth are bent, the easier it will be to solder the still boiler bottom. Next, the boiler sheet should be bent, by hand, so it forms a cylinder. Bend slowly and carefully. Try to not "kink" or bend the copper sharply. Bend until the rivet holes on either end of the boiler overlap one another. Once bent, the rivets should be set into place (in the pre-drilled rivet holes) and lightly hammered to secure the copper. Do not excessively hammer rivets. They only require a few medium strength taps. Once they fan out enough to hold the copper in place without moving, they are set. If they are hammered more than that, they will warp the copper still boiler and make it more difficult to solder. These copper still kits are designed to be easily assembled by someone with any level of experience with sheet metal fabrication and soldering. The parts are pre-cut and should fit together perfectly. Soldering may be a bit tricky at first, but we show plenty of examples and give quite a few pointers so even someone with no prior experience can figure it out. Have a question about the kits or on assembly the assembly process? Feel free to call (970.541.0569) or send us an email at Thanks!

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