How to build a 4g63 Coil On Plug Assembly
This is just like all other do it yourself projects.
1) Buy parts that make doing the job easiest for you. 2) Put the stuff together. 3) Install it.
No really, I used the JMFabrications Coil Plate, ordered all new UF269 Chrysler coils and wiring from Toyota. This video is intended to compliment thread #290665 at DSMTuners dot com which contains wiring diagrams and part numbers for these specific products.
The only thing I did different was use 3/16" grommets in the harness holes rather than elongating them to prevent wire chaffing. I went a little overboard with the convoluted tubing, but it looks fantastic.
you can get coils from Chrysler models...
2003-2003 300M PRO-AM
2002-2003 300M SPECIAL
2002-2003 CONCORDE LIMITED
2002-2003 CONCORDE LXI
2000-2000 INTREPID ES
2000-2002 INTREPID R/T
2002-2003 INTREPID SE
2003-2003 INTREPID SXT
What isn't covered in that thread is the necessity of a capacitive discharge system. In order for this to be any kind of upgrade a CDI is required. The factory coil pack on these cars is good for 30+ PSI.
4g63 Mighty Max drag race, Kevin Jewer "World's Fastest 4g63 Mighty Max" 11.54 @ 122 mph - NEW Best*
Kevin Jewer finally got some traction and got a new best ET and MPH in his 4g63 Mighty Max. Always improving.
Current Best ET: 11.54
Current Best MPH: 122.85 (see compilation vid)
Now on the 50 trim turbo.
TCI competition TH350 trans
JM Fabrications RWD intake manifold.
Kevin: "Some other details, it weighs 3000 lbs with me in it. TCI competition TH350 trans. Custom JMF intake and Exhaust manifolds Brent made for me. 2g ECMlink V3 on speed density. Mid 80s Montero LSD in the stock rear axle. MT ET Street radials. Pretty standard 2.3 liter eagle/ross motor. FP 4R cams. 45k miles on the odometer."
New England Dragway
New England DSM
[FREE Thunder sound FX by: Final Cut King - http://www.youtube.com/user/finalcutking]
Cesar's DSM 4G63 Powered RWD Starlet First Start!
There was no feedback from any sensor to the ECU at the time of this video since they weren't connected yet. that's why it was running so rich since there was no way to measure Air flow
1983 Toyota Starlet, 4g63T engine, Toyota Supra transmission, with a built Mustang 8.8 rear end
Trailer Wiring Harnesses Troubleshooting - etrailer.com
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we are going to cover kind of a different subject. Basically, we are going to talk about getting your wiring installed and what is happening afterward. Okay, for instance, you went to the trouble to get your wiring installed, you plug it into your trailer, and nothing happens. There could be a lot of different things going on with it. First off, you need to figure out for sure whether it is on the towing vehicle side - the car or truck - or if it is something on the trailer. We will show you how to test the different types of wiring systems we have shown here. And that way you can tell for sure if it is your wiring harness or if it is your trailer.
First off,we have a regular T-one connector that goes straight into the vehicle itself and makes its connections and then goes out to the trailer - a real simple setup. Really these are pretty much bulletproof. The only thing that could really happen is, if you do not have the ground in the right spot, then these possibly will not work right. Other than that, these are pretty bulletproof. And the next one we have over here, we have a T-one connector with a converter installed in the middle of the harness. Basically, this is about the weak spot on this type of wiring. There are five wires coming in and it converts down to a four-wire system and back out. A lot of times, in here this could break, for whatever reason. It could be from the factory. It could be when you plug it into your trailer you have a short in it and you do not know about it. It will cook these almost in an instant. It depends on how severe the short is.
Also we have another wire harness with the hard wire. Again, it basically just has the ends here that you hard wire into the vehicle. Pretty similar to your T-one. It has the same converter and everything. All the testing procedures apply to both of them. In fact, we will use this one to show you how to test everything on the wire harnesses. First off, we are going to show you the simplest T-one connector. Again, this is the kind that just plugs into your vehicle and you do not even have to worry about ground wire, having to screw it to sheet metal or frame. This one, what you want to do is to test it. Basically there are two ways you can do it. First off, with it plugged in, you want to test behind the connector right here. You want to test these wires with a simple wire tester. You can use something like this right here. This is a real fancy version but you can get a simple one off a website or at a local auto parts store. Basically it consists of an alligator clip and a probe right here. You simply just pierce the wires. When you do this, you want to ground this to the ground on the four-pole right here. And the reason why you want to test it here first, as aside from back here, is to make sure you have got power coming out of the connection here and going to the wires. Because if you have power here but you find out you do not have anything here, that lets you know that somewhere in the wire is a break. And you could actually work your way down piercing the wire to find out where the break is and then make a repair that way. Basically, though, at that point, it probably should be taken out and replaced. But if you are stuck on the road somewhere or in a hurry, you can patch it up that way.