Just Built 1776cc VW Beetle Bug Motor - POWERFUL!!!! LOUD!
1776cc newly rebuilt by myself.
Weber 44mm Carb
stock 69mm Crankshaft
stock connecting rods
90.5mm Mahle pistons
Engle 120 Camshaft
Hi Performance lifters with oil gallery (for cam lobes)
042 high performance head with port&polish and 3 angle valve job.
Euro tuck Exhaust with J-tubes
Classic VW Engine Rebuild, By Last Chance Auto Restore.com
We began with a dual port 1600 cc engine from a 1973 Volkswagen Beetle.
The engine ran with a miss and was smoking a bit . After performing a
compression test,(both wet and dry) , we determined the crankshaft and
bearings were fine.
We replaced the pistons, pots & rings. We had the valves redone and made
several upgrades along the way.....
The Performer Chassis by Airkewld
Complete rebuild of an original VW chassis to perform to today's standards.
Check out these chassis on Airkewld's Website for more information. Please
comment and let us know what you think!
VW 1641 cc engine with 2 x 40 Dellorto
Start of my rebuilt engine. Scat C-45. Dellorto 40. Bigger valves. Ported
head. 1.25, dual valve springs, 009. He has not been tuned in yet, but that
will come as well.
1966 VW Beetle - Body Removal - One Person - Remove Body Chassis Bug - (2x Speed)
FOR SALE (July 2, 2013): SOLD
Here's a short video showing the removal of my VW Beetle body from it's
chassis. This is the first time I've attempted this solo. In the past,
I've done it with the help of friends with each of us on a corner of the
car. All things considered, it went pretty well. =) Hopefully someone
will learn from my mistakes. The sawhorses are very similar to the ones
you'll see in the BugMe videos.
Check out my blog:
Paint Color: 2006 Toyota Scion TC color. "Hypnotic Teal Mica"
Paint Code: 8U3
Paint Brand: Dupont
VW DUAL PORT CROSS FIRE INTAKE SYSTEM
Replaces dual carbs.. and messy linkage.Cuts maintenance costs in
half..tons of room for plug removal and replacement. fits in a bus or bug
with clearance for the deck lid.sounds better than duals.. and has crisp
throttle response at any rpm .. no flat spots even with a oo9 dist, comes
to order with your carb base pattern. works well at 40 degrees temps and
above . do people actually drive their bugs and busses at night? easy
1776cc VW beetle motor
1776cc (69mm x 90.5mm) with dual 40 IDF Weber carbs. Engle 120 cam w/
performance lifters. 40mm x 35mm valves (044 heads). Tri-mil Exhaust. Oil/filter pump combo. Flamethrower II
coil & points replacement. 009 distributor. 8mm performance plug wires.
For a video of this engine running in the car, please click on the link
STARTING A '51 SPLIT WITH THE HAND CRANK
José intenta arrancar el motor de su VW escarabajo split de 1951 con la
palanca de mano... hasta que lo consigue. Bravo !
José is trying to start the engine of his '51 split window beetle with the
hand crank. Finally he succeeds. Bravo!
VW 1600 motor rebuild - part 4
The final part of this series covering the rebuild of a dual relief twin
port 1600 Volkswagen motor. In this video fitting the fan housing, tinware
and Exhaust as well as a test run.
New 1600cc vw beetle engine startup
Here a video of my new 1600cc beetle engine.
The video's were taken 1year ago.
This engine sits in my 1965 bug now (watch my other video's).
Engine rebuild by Leo De Rijck-'.
Intro by Wosser1 Productions: http://www.youtube.com/user/wosser3
Thanks for watching!
Tuning a vw solex 34 pict 3 carb on 1904cc Option 1
I couldn't find any good info on how to modify a Solex 34 Pict 3 carburetor
to run on larger engines above 1.9L. So here is what I did to make it work.
If you jet the carb right this Mod should have Low Idle Emissions (very
clean below 4500rpms)
Please note, English is not my first language so bear with me! My engine
is a 1904cc with a stock cam and 042 heads. That's 40mm intake and 35.5mm
exh, heads are ported and the intake manifold end casts are match ported.
Rockers are stock. Compression is 8.7:1. Distributor is a vacuum advance
only and its set at 8deg at idle and max vacuum advance is 42deg (Note: the
Ford V8 flat head was not the only car with a vacuum advance only
distributor!!!) I don't want to hear it!... ALSO DO NOT USE A 009
Carb is a Solex 34 Pict 3 Bocar
The restrictive 26 mm to 28mm Venturi (Depending on your carb) is removed
and none are used! The new diameter is 34mm. Now you're really going to
move some air!
These jets are a good for a 1904cc at Sea Level
Also these jets are a lot bigger because there is a lower vacuum at the
throttle area! Don't worry your not going to run rich if you're running a
1904cc to 1914cc engine! If you plan to run a bigger engine like 2180cc
you're going to need bigger jets. I would not run anything below 1904cc
without a venturi do to the lack of vacuum and above 2180cc with this carb
because a 34mm diameter throttle plate is just too small. To get the jets
to the sizes that you need, you need to drill them. Use a digital caliper
to find the right size drill bit. Does not have to be a real drill bit, any
hard wire will work! If you go too far just solder them shut and redrill
them. There are plenty of youtube videos that show you where all the jets
are, or you can look at my part2 supplemental video and also look at No
Venturi 2nd Option.
Heres a tool to resize your jets. This tool will make it very easy.
This is a cheaper drill set
You don't really need this one, but if your a perfectionist here's a link
If you jet the carb right you should end up with a normal carb with no
Idle jet is 62mm..... 65mm runs rich, 67mm runs ok but lost power below
Main jet is 165mm.... 150mm runs ok but runs lean and hot
Air jet is 60mm......... 70mm and higher increases the hesitation problem
but an engine with more ccs may be able to run with a larger air jet.
Aux jet is 42mm........ right next to the idle jet at 11 o'clock. This is
for high rpms only, close to 5k. So if you plan to rev the shit out of your
engine you might want to change this to 42mm or bigger, but will work fine
with the stock jet. My advise is leave it stock. Fine tune your Idle jet,
main jet, and air jet. With these jets I'm currently getting a personal
worst of 22mpg W/O (wide open). Personal best of 30.5mpg at 60mph driving
like an old person and 27.5mpg at 70mph! With my freeway flyer tranny. Not
bad for a big engine with a carburetor!!!! My top speed is.... ???mph. I
don't know, I chickened out at 112mph!... It wanted more!.... lol
Explanation of Why it Works:
The hose is to keep your fuel bowl as close to atmospheric pressure as
possible. Other wise the fuel will not flow in to the throttle air stream
because of the negative air pressure in the fuel bowl that's created by the
breather tube that ends at the center of the air stream (Above the choke),
which is a negative air stream area. Because the fuel in the bowl is at a
negative pressure, the fuel is actually pulling away from your jets giving
you a stumble, bog and a surging feeling when driving with out a venturi in
your carb. The venturi normally creates a larger negative air pressure at
the throttle plate that over powers the vacuum that's in the fuel bowl,
which causes fuel to get sucked into the air stream. It basically works
like an airplane wing but round. So by decreasing the vacuum in the bowl
it makes it easier for the fuel to get sucked in by your jets and into the
throttle air stream area. I hope this helps!!!....What?.... LMAO
If you run a thinner hose form the vent tube all the way through and exit
the air cleaner you should eliminate any remaining stumbles. I know it
works better because I already tried it and determined that this approach
Please Note: I'm not a mechanic or ever claim to be one. I have however
been modifing anything mechanical all my life! Use this information at your
own risk!!!...lol Please don't use a carb with an existing stumble or that
has tuning problems! But if you do, make sure you do a proper rebuild on