How to debog your Quadrajet part 3
In the first two videos we looked at operational theory of the Quadrajet.
In this episode we'll explore a couple mistakes the home mechanic often
makes in an effort to improve the performance of this unit.
Quadrajet HP for $40.
A GEARHEAD PRODUCTION. Throw away the Edelbrock and the Holley and save
your money. You can build a hp QJ for less, and get better performance and
750 vs. 800cfm Rochester Quadrajets-how to tell them apart
There exists a ton of misinformation regarding the actual airflow capacity
of the Rochester Quadrajet. Not many people know how many variations there
are or how to tell them apart.
Here is a simple video explaining how to identify each size based on
casting design. I will cover the "cfm-limited" carbs in a separate video.
How to de-bog your Quadrajet part 2
The Rochester Quadrajet has gotten a bad rap over the years, but it's
actually an excellent carburetor once you understand how they work.
Often referred to as "Quadrabog" or "Quadrajunk", many of the issues these
units suffer stem from neglect, or "modifications" that do more harm than
Being a spreadbore, air-valve secondary design, the Quadrajet is capable
of flowing 750 or 800 cfm of airflow, eliminating the need to buy different
carburetors when your set-up changes. In addition, the small primaries make
for great drivability and fuel economy.
In this clip, I'll discuss theory of operation on the secondary side,
since that's where most problems arise. So, leave your preconceived notions
at the door and let's see what makes these carburetors tick.
How to de-bog your Quadrajet part 1
Sorry guys, I got the videos a bit out of order.
The Rochester Quadrajet has gotten a bad rap over the years, often called a
Quadrabog or Quadrajunk.
In fact, this is a great multipurpose carbureter once you understand how
they work and what not to do to them.
In this clip I introduce you to the Quadrajet and begin explaining the
theory of operation of these units.
How to measure and adjust Quadrajet float level
I have had several requests for this, so here you go:
1. The airhorn has to be removed to do this, but the carburetor does not
have to be removed from the engine.
2. Some data says to measure from the toe(end that is opposite from the
hinge), some say 5/16 inward from the end, etc. I suggest following the
specs for your particular carburetor.
3. With the float in the raised position and the inlet needle lightly
seated, measure from the top of the float to the top edge of the carburetor
with NO gasket in place. If you have to adjust the float, bend at the area
that has the cutouts,
4, If you are experiencing flooding issues then it is an excellent time to
install a new needle/seat and float and that should cure flooding problems
that are not choke-related.