Honda Magna Carbs Install (Part 1)
Had to pull the carbs on my '86 VF700C Magna. The following video made by
"pauljt98" is a great video tutorial on how to remove them:
After the rebuild of the carbs, I was going nuts (as usual) reinstalling
them. The usual method of just pushing them in was not working for me this
time as it had every time in the past. I did a google search and found the
It worked liked a charm with a couple of modifications of my own. So, I am
posting this video as an ALTERNATE method.
Here is a link to a great method made by another V4 owner that is another
great method to use when simply pushing them in does not work:
To my demise though, I had a faulty o-ring on one of the fuel joiners and
had to pull the carbs out again. I decided to make my misfortune an
opportunity to make a video of how to use the rachet strap method of
installation. One thing I did differently than the author of that page did,
was I re-used my existing boots. Another thing I do differently is that I
leave the boots on cylinders 2&4 loose and tilted forward.
This should help save alot of hair from being pulled out. I hopes this
helps Magna and Sabre owners alike.
Many thanks to pauljt98 for the easy removal method and many thanks to Tony
from the SabMag website on the rachet strap idea.
I have a both a VF700 and a VF1100 and this method works on both (will work
on the VF750 as well).
How Motorcycle Carburetors work and how to tune and clean them
Here's a link to the kind of carb cleaner I like best (it IS the best)
hey... awesome video..nicely explained !
just one question. Please do tel me wts AIR NEEDLE and LOW JET used for
again. ? i mean how and what do they work?
The air needle is like a transitional restriction to increase vacuum
pressure and tapered to prime the main jet flow gradually to ramp up fuel
flow from the idle/low circuit to the main circuit. Think of the circuits
like gears or stairs. The needle covers transition between 3rd gear to
about 5th gear on a six speed. It overlaps basically. Fuel is getting by
it from the idle/low- on through to where it's completely out of the way of
the main jet and the main jet fuel flow is roaring like the
Without the needle the carb would work, but not as smoothly through middle
throttle (where most people ride and have the most fine input or throttle
roll back and forth.
The low jet is like second gear on a transmission. You can shift from 1st
to 3rd, but again you risk stalling and it won't be as smooth. Also there
isn't really the mechanical inertia to carry the process on like you have
with a rolling vehicle with a flywheel on the engine and the wheels
turning. The pistons still create vacuum every other time they go down,
but air just doesn't have the punch that steel does when in motion.
The circuits in a carburetor have to be there or you would have a limit on
RPM range. An idle jet can't deliver enough fuel to really scream, and the
main jet couldn't go slow and would be VERY hard to start because the
engine would have to be spun up really fast. So you have usually four or
five circuits (I want to say jets, but their physically different) that get
air flow like stairs as the throttle opens. They are typically 1. Starting
circuit (choke on) 2. Idle circuit 3. low jet 4. Jet Needle 5. Main jet.
How Motorcycle Carburetors work and how to tune and clean them Check out
my other channel here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KKvwMaIotA
Cleaning Carbs on the Honda Shadow
So my VT500 wasn't running quite right... It would make a weird popping
sound at higher RPMS steadily and would make random pops at lower RPMS...
There was a weird "sucking" sound coming from the front half of the engine
when you revved it, and it would randomly sputter and almost die as you
rode it, so we figured it was time for the good ole' seafoam treatment.
While we were at it, we decided to clean the carbs and then REALLY sea-foam
Although I REALLY didn't want to go into those carburetors, in hindsight Im
glad we did. Danny really knows his stuff mechanically, and for anyone
watching this, it honestly wasn't that difficult looking. Im no
wrench-turner and I still managed to clean the carb on my KLR before I sold
it. Basically, all you do is get a clean spot (newspaper, salt bags like we
used, etc) then take it all apart, and ideally remove EVERYTHING you can,
then boil it or use one of those buckets of chem-dip. If you're cheap like
me, the boiling water trick works very well especially for the cost (free).
Anyway, take a $3 can of carb cleaner and spray everything out very well,
and wipe out all the crap from the exposed areas with a rag, Q-tips, etc. I
used Kleenexes but a rag would be better. Also, using an old toothbrush can
really help out as well. Then take some compressed air and blow everything
out, do ALL that again, then put it back together.
Bike runs SO much better now, I wish we'de done this sooner.
Thanks Danny! :)
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How to re-install carbs the easy way
Sliding those carbs back in can be pretty challenging. This is a simple way
I found to re-install your carbs after cleaning on both an inline 4 and v-4
Motorcycle Chain and Sprocket Replacement
Replacing Chain and Sprocket on 1999 Honda Magna VF750C. Replacing with
X-Ring Chain, New 17 Tooth Front Sprocket, New Sunstar Rear Sprocket.
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