Mods are: Injen Cai, DCRH, Buddyclub Exhaust, K-Pro ECU, JRSC w/ 3.2 pulley tuned for 9.6 psi, Hytech modified k20a2 cylinder head. K24a1 Block w/ CP 10:0.1 pistons, brian crower connecting rods,cosworth rod/main bearings, toda chain tensioner, aem fuel rail, walbro 255 fuel pump, comptech 520cc inj, NGK coldstep plugs, Hondata 4bar map sensor, CF type R replica lip kit and wing, OEM style Cf hood, Tanabe prospec five coilovers, Ingalls rear camber kit. Progress Rear sway bar with end links. Tanabe front sway bar,Tanabe front strut tower bar, Mugen rear bar, Tein rear strut tower bar, MG C pillar bar, progress, skunk2 rear arms,Ingrearcamberkit, 9LB flywheel, Competition clutch stage IV, electronics are: Passport XD8500, Defi BF Amber Oil press/temp gauge, Boost gauge, and control unit II. All done the right way, Tuned the right way, and accredited the right way, with no razorblades in the Oil pump.
k24 SuperCharged on Dyno
So I changed out crank pulleys to the new 09 Honda Accord CP, I added the
GM 3BAR MAP sensor and swapped my 440cc injectors for 750cc and took my car
to a new tuner who knew my car could make a lot more! Previously I made
241hp and 163lbs torque, now I make 290hp and 216lbs torque. I can't thank
Curt at Dynotune
Performance in Madison enough! Also thank you to Calvin for al of your help
and swapping our injectors!
Turbo RSX Type S vs Supercharged RSX Type S
My 480whp turbo RSX against a 300whp
Supercharged RSX was tuned with Nitrous
@ 340whp but ran out of spray midway in the 2nd run. First run he was not
First run we started in 2nd gear, and you can hear me just spinning until I
catch mid way in 3rd lol
2nd run I had him start just before me while in 3rd gear.
Final pull by me at the end was in 3rd gear as well.
In car RPM Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams RSX Type S
Another clip from inside the car, Vtec set high due to crappy raceheader
and stock Exhaust, no top end :(
I'd like to lay to rest a lot of the questions that have been asked. This
video was by no means to show anyone how "fast" this car is. At the time of
this video, I had a bullshit DC Sports raceheader (which has terrible
pairings) and a stock 02-04 Exhaust.
With regards to gearing, although this is an 02-04 I was using the 05-06
The reason for the stock Exhaust is
that when I blew this motor I already had some minor bolt ons. I spent
about 10k in parts and machine work on this motor and wasn't left with much
for a real raceheader or Exhaust. Car
obviously has kpro but this was not tuned by a professional. I simply tuned
for fuel so that it would run safely! Not powerfully!
Why 10 grand you ask? I did a lot of things that are typically deemed
"unnecessary" for a mild all motor build. Car has BC stage 2 cams, the BC
titanium valve train package. 11.7:1 pistons, lighter rods, and some other
engine internals here and there with bearings and what not. The car is
also fully balanced and blue printed meaning, even though the pistons and
rods and bearings all say they are one size or weight... I went a step
further and made sure of that.
Guess what. Modifications still needed to be made so the rods so they all
weighed the same, 2 of the bearings had to be cut, and the entire rotating
assembly was then balanced. This motor now has over 25k hard beaten miles
in it and IT STILL WORKS! and has never broken.
So for all the haters out there, here's to you.
between school and a job, i haven't had the time i needed to ever finish
this car but I'm finally getting around to that. Custom raceheader for
1300 dollars in the works as well as a full 2.75" Exhaust, some intake manifold work and then it
will finally be getting tuned.
BC cams may not put out the peak power that other stage 2 cams do, but
that's because they're less aggressive and have similar stock drive-ablity
when you're on the low cam.
Regardless my intent was not to build a racecar. It was to build a bullet
proof car, that functioned LIKE a race car with stock drive-ability.