Warning: Language. ***Click 'More Info'***
Here's a video I recorded some time in 2005-ish with my good buddy, Richie. I used a throwaway Logitech 4000 webcam, lots of duct tape (...like 2 yards), and a laptop.
You are looking at a failed driver side Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (RTAB) of a 1998 BMW 323is (E36 chassis). The bottom of the video frame is the front of the car, the top is the rear. Notice how the trailing arm (the thing that's moving in the video) is able to wobble about as it mushes around inside the RTA console as the rear wheel undergoes loading forces. This is a perfect example of:
A) A failed RTA Bushing.
B) Why you should install RTAB limiters to prevent this kind of behavior, and double (AT LEAST!) the life of your bushings.
When the Rear Trailing Arm (RTA) moves left to right, the rear toe for that wheel is changing. If both left and right bushings are torn, you get toe out under acceleration, toe in during hard braking, and RANDOM toe whenever the wheel feels like it. This is bad. My car was crab-walking all over the place because of this bushing. I was having the 'rear steering' effect. When the car is under hard acceleration, the arm is allowed to move towards the front of the car (down,in reference to the video frame). Under hard braking, the arm moves backwards (up in reference to the video frame). Up and down (in and out in reference to the video frame) and rotational motion occurs when the wheel travels up and down over bumps. The bushing is there to absorb road vibrations and isolate the car body from the wheel. It's NOT there to allow the suspension geometry and alignment to change on the fly (as mine is in the video)
What I did in the video: Accelerate from a standstill through 1st gear, into 2nd, and then cycled full on and full off of the throttle 4 times, then drove at about 55 mph on some country roads (see video statistics link for google maps location). I then swerved left and right about 7-8 times at the end of the video, you can see how the arm reacts to slow suspension travel.
Dialog: talking about how awful the bushing is, then about how my passenger window seal is broken and you have to open the door so the window seals. I tried to repair it with rubber cement and it looked melted - and failed. A cop drives past, we cuss a lot, and I don't care if you find that offensive, get over it.
BMW X5 (F15) 2014 50i - ЖермесАвто. Эпизод 1 - Большой тест-драйв
Подкаст «Большой тест-драйв» -
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Вторая часть обзора BMW X5 (F15) 2014 50i. Мы
решили привлечь к «Большому тест-драйву»
Кирилла a.k.a. Жермеса, имеющего уникальный
взгляд на автомобили и их юзабилити в
частности. Понравился ли обновленный X5
Жермесу, какие плюсы и минусы он смог
найти? Что сказал владелец Tesla Model S -
Андрей, которого Сергей Стиллавин и
Рустам Вахидов случайно встретили в
небольшом городе под названием Москва.
Наша партнерская программа
How to replace e36 trailing arm bushings without special tools (and installing POWERFLEX bushings)
Another diy video of me this time i am replacing one of my rtabs with
powerflex bushings. No special tools necessary although having an impact
wrench helps. Tools needed are: 10mm socket, 18mm socket, 17mm socket,
breaker bar, drill, 18mm wrench or 3/4 , hammer, flat head screw driver,
copper anti seize $1.50. Since you will be under the car, take necessary
precautions and wear eye protection when marking the bolt location. They
are dirty! I did not video myself hammering away but i did show the proper
way to hammer the bushing out. Enjoy and goodluck!
E36 Camber Bolt Removal
WARNING: YOU WILL NEED AN ALIGNMENT AFTER THIS - Changing my destroyed
camber bolts. Have bushings ready or a source of getting them quickly if
you need because although mine were good, yours may not be and you may get
the center of the bolts stuck in the bushing if it's too corroded. This
isn't the most difficult job you'll face at all, but it isn't for
beginners. If you aren't used to working with pulling bushings and taking
out stubborn bolts, you will not have fun with this.
I have had a request for a bolt link. The following is the link to it with
the top two items being what you need. The bolt and nut. EDIT: You'll also
want the 6th item down. The washer.
Heres what I did to remove the stubborn bolt (the first one that I didn't
1. I removed the nut/washer which thankfully, came off without snapping the
bolt. Save yourself time and pain by using a breaker bar for this task.
2. Smashed the hell out of it with a sledge hammer very hard probably about
50 times before it started to come loose.
3. Used a breaker bar to turn it and loosen it.
4. Took off the rotor for more working room.
5. Used vise grips to wiggle it free and pull it out using my entire weight
and leg power against the sub frame to pull on it.
---- the reason you want to remove the rotor (especially if you are keeping
the bushing you have) is because you will need room to work if the bolt is
stubborn on coming out and it will make installing the new one a lot
easier. It doesn't have to be done this way, but I would recommend it. ----
This is a list of tools I used from what I remember:
-1/2 inch drive breaker bar
-6mm allen (hex) head for the rotor retaining bolt
-15mm open end and/or socket for the caliper bracket (remove the bracket
with the caliper attached - anything else would be a waste of time and
-18mm open end and/or socket - two of each of what you choose to use for
each side of the bolt
-17mm socket for the wheels (as always, impact wrenches are helpful here)
-sledge hammer, regular hammer, mallet - all of these present while you
were is good
-I didn't use a torch, but it would be helpful depending on how bad they
are stuck (careful though, you can heat/melt the bushing with this method)
and please as one last note... clean the corrosion inside the center of the
bushing if you're keeping it. It takes two minutes and will prevent this
kind of thing from happening. I didn't make this DIY for you to half-ass
BMW e46 Trailing arm removal
BMW e46 Trailing arm removal:
Here is my first video showing how to remove the trailing arm on a BMW e46.
I had the wheelbearing replaced by a friend, but the protector (backing)
plate was damaged - the mounting holes for the parkbrake shoe got flattened
by the press. I tried to get the (very specific) recess into place again,
fitted everything and the brakeshoes came off during the test drive :argh:
I temporarily removed the shoes and continued testing.
I am now awaiting the new plate to arrive and in the mean time removed the
trailing arm for fitment.
The shop can replace the wheel bearing with a sliding hammer, which is
propably less work and there is no need for wheel alinment.
I prefer to have everything checked again.
How To Control Arm Bushing Removal at Home (without a torch) 1984 Chevrolet Truck C10 DIY
This video is showing one way I remove the control arm bushings from a 1984
Chevrolet truck C10 if you don't have a torch and with basic tools that
most will have.
After stripping these arms down and buying the new bushings and ball
joints, I will recommend to anyone considering doing this - DONT. Just buy
the complete control arm with all already installed and painted. The $100
you save (for 4 arms) doing it yourself is not worth all of the labor
you'll put into it. Plus they probably still wont look as good.
Check out my other videos like this on the link below:
Part 1- Replacing control arms in a BMW 3 series or MINI
PART 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsUUSp2xEos
PART 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47UbYE3tExM
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/go/control-arm
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All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at
http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech
blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at:
In this two part video series Otto will show you how to replace front
control arms and control arm bushings on a typical BMW 3-series 84-05 and
MINI. Note that while these procedures are shown on an E30 3-series (84-91)
BMW, they can also be applied to the E36 3-Series (92-98), E46 3-series
(99-05) and MINI models. Of the 3-series and MINI models listed, some will
look slightly different or have slightly different hardware but, the basic
points and procedures are the same.
Part one - Control arm and bushing removal steps
In this video we will remove the front control arm and control arm bushing
on a BMW 3-series (and MINI). Part-2 covers the installation.
For a list of the parts and tools used, see the accompanying BLOG post at:
1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front
wheels are off the ground.
2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
3) If the swaybar end link is connected to the control arm (as on this E30
and most E36 3-series), remove the nut from the underside of the control
arm, that secures the end link bracket to the control arm.
4) Release the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on
the top of the ball joint's tapered pin, but do not fully remove it. Using
a 2 lb to 3 lb short handled sledgehammer (properly called, a drilling
hammer), give the knuckle area a series of sharp-forceful blows. If the
ball joint's tapered pin does not release from the knuckle, try using a
pry-bar to provide downward pressure on the end of the control arm ....
while hitting the knuckle with the hammer. This can take a good series of
multiple HARD blows with the hammer. If the tapered pin is still not
releasing, you will have to resort to a "pickle-fork". Insert the
pickle-fork between the ball joint and the knuckle and use the hammer to
force the pickle-fork between the two parts. If you get the pickle fork as
far as it will go and the joint is still not separating, try repeating the
blows to the knuckle (as in the first sequence), with the pickle-fork in
NOTE: Never use a pickle-fork to separate the ball joints if you intend to
reuse the control arm (and ball joints), as the fork will typically tear
the ball joint's rubber boot.
5) Release the inner ball joint in a similar fashion to the outer ball
joint, with the exception that you will be hitting the cast area of the
control arm, where the ball-joint mounts into the arm. Note that it may be
necessary to resort to the pickle-fork due to a lack of area to use the
hammer, as a first course of action.
6) Remove the rear control arm bushing mount bracket by removing the two
bolts securing the bracket to the vehicle. Note the position and overall
relationship of the bracket and how it is mounted to the uni-body frame
rail, for the future re-installation.
7) Fully remove the nuts on the ball joints and lower the control arm and
bushing assembly from the vehicle.
NOTE: If you are re-using the control arm bushing mounting brackets and
installing new bushings in the brackets, follow steps 8-10. If you are
installing pre-assembled bushing and bracket assemblies, skip to step 11.
8) Use the control arm bushing removal/install tool to remove the bushing
and bracket assembly from the end of the control arm pin.
9) Using a hydraulic press, press the bushing out of the bushing mount
10) Using a hydraulic press, press the new bushing into the mount bracket.
Note if there are any alignment marks to tend with. The new bushing will
either install in the same manner as the old original bushing (alignment
marks, etc.), or it will come with an installation sheet outlining the
Now, click on to Part-2 and continue with the installation of the new
control arm and bushing assemblies.
All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store,
http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also
welcome to e-mail us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call into our headquarters and
speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to
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