Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

BMW E36 323is Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Failure

Warning: Language. Please excuse my adolescent swearing. ***Click 'show more' for deails*** Here's a video I recorded some time in 2005-ish with an old friend, Richie. I used a throwaway Logitech 4000 USB webcam, lots of duct tape (...like 2 yards), and a laptop. This video is almost a decade old, and depicts a failed suspension bushing under various loading conditions. You are looking at a failed driver side Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (RTAB) of a 1998 BMW 323is (E36 chassis, stock GM automatic transmission [built in France]). The bottom of the video frame is the front of the car, the top is the rear. Notice how the trailing arm (the thing that's moving in the video) is able to wobble about as it mushes around inside the RTA console as the rear wheel undergoes loading forces. This is a perfect example of: A) A failed RTA Bushing. B) Why you should install RTAB limiters to prevent this kind of behavior, and double the life of your bushings. When the Rear Trailing Arm (RTA) moves left to right, the rear toe for that wheel is changing. If both left and right bushings are torn, you get toe out under acceleration, toe in during hard braking, and unstable toe over bumps and rough terrain - resulting in an unstable feeling rear end. This is bad. My car was crab-walking all over the place because of this bushing. I was having the 'rear steering' effect. When the car is under hard acceleration, the arm is allowed to move towards the front of the car (down,in reference to the video frame). Under hard braking, the arm moves backwards (up in reference to the video frame). Up and down (in and out in reference to the video frame) and rotational motion occurs when the wheel travels up and down over bumps. The bushing is there to assist in the absorption of road vibrations and isolate the car body from the wheel to increase passenger comfort and reduce noise. It's NOT there to allow the suspension geometry and alignment to change on the fly (as mine is in the video) What I did in the video: Accelerate from a standstill through 1st gear, into 2nd, and then cycled full on and full off of the throttle 4 times, then drove at about 55 mph on some country roads (see video statistics link for google maps location). I then swerved left and right about 7-8 times at the end of the video (with no traffic, within lane constraints), you can see how the arm reacts to slow suspension travel. Dialog: talking about how awful the bushing is, then about how my passenger window seal is broken and you have to open the door so the window seals. I tried to repair it with rubber cement and it looked melted - and failed. We cross paths with a police officer, and we swear a lot. I've grown up since then and recognize that is in bad taste and reflects quite poorly upon my character. In retrospect I regret my choice of vernacular during that age period.


 


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BLOG ARTICLE:http://blog.bavauto.com/15088 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for properly using the control arm bushing remover and installer tool for removing or installing the front control arm bushings on BMW 3-series models from 1984 through 2005. One of the most common sources for front-end vibrations on BMWs and MINIs is worn front control arm bushings. If all other front-end suspension and steering parts are verified to be in proper functioning condition, it is likely that the control arm bushings have become soft and are allowing the suspension control arms to oscillate, causing the vibrations that can be felt through the chassis and the steering wheel. Replacing the control arm bushings on the 3-series BMW models from 1984 through 2005 (E30, E36, E46), can be accomplished by most DIYers in just a couple hours .... If we have the proper tools. In addition the a floor jack, jack-stands and common metric tools ranging from 16mm through 19mm (in most cases), we need the control arm bushing removal and installation tool kit. In this DIY we will show how to remove and replace the control arm bushings on the BMW 3-series models as noted above, using the control arm bushing replacement tool set. Note that we will be installing the pre-assembled control arm bushing and mount bracket assemblies. This will allow us to replace the bushings without access to a hydraulic press. TOOLS: Control arm bushing removal and install tool: http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=kt20249 Bentley repair manual; as applicable to BMW or MINI model: http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228 ½" drive socket set, to include; 16mm through 19mm sockets (depending on model), ratchet and extensions. 24mm combination wrench 27mm combination wrench or ½" drive socket Pry bars PARTS: Control arm bushings with mount brackets, as applicable to BMW or MINI model: http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=162 This general outline for 3-series control arm bushing replacement assumes that the proper Bentley repair manual is at hand. PROCEDURE: 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. NOTE: Some models may require removal of splash panels or shields in order to access the control arm bushing mount brackets. 3) Remove the rear control arm bushing mount bracket by removing the two bolts securing the bracket to the vehicle. Note the position and overall relationship of the bracket and how it is mounted to the uni-body frame rail, for the future re-installation. 4) Use the control arm bushing removal/install tool to remove the bushing and bracket assembly from the end of the control arm pin. 5) Press the new bushing/mount assembly onto the control arm, using the bushing removal/install tool. Note that some urethane bushings may not require a press for this operation. Note that rubber bushings require a lubricant to allow them to be pressed onto the arm. BMW specifies a special lube that dries after assembly .... we like to use Silicone spray, diluted dish soap or hair spray as alternatives. Take note of any alignment marks, as well as the proper orientation (left / right and front / back) of the mount bracket. Most of the applications will install with the mounting arm, on the mount bracket, being parallel and in-line (on the same plane) with the forward end of the control arm. 6) Install the bolts for the bushing mount bracket and torque to specs (see the proper Bentley manual). 7) Replace the splash shields and the wheels/tires and torque the lug bolts to the proper torque spec. Lower the vehicle. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





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