BMW 330i, 325i, e46, Lower Control Arms and Tie Rods How to Change out, Repair
How to remove and replace your steering tie rod(s) and lower control arm(s) in an e46 BMW Sport. If your BMW's front end is clunking when you hit the brakes or your car wanders on uneven pavement, it's usually your lower control arm ball joints (built into the lower control arm) or your control arm bushing. Under normal driving conditions you should replace the lower control arm bushing every 60k miles and the entire control arm and bushing as a set every 120k miles. I also replace the steering tie rods because you are already in the area and it provides better clearance to remove the lower control arms. Check your tires because if your front suspension has degraded, you probably are experiencing uneven wear in the tires. Always wear safety glasses or goggles and gloves for protection. Always get a proper alignment soon after this procedure. After hearing from other BMW owners, the part brand recommended would not be Deutche Parts, but Lemforder, Meyle, Febi, and maybe Karlyn. The Lemforder and Meyle are more OEM related and have proven to be superior steering/suspension hardware.
Replacing front control arm bushings on BMW 3 series 84 thru 05 (E30, E36, E46)
BLOG ARTICLE:http://blog.bavauto.com/15088 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for properly using the control arm bushing remover and installer tool for removing or installing the front control arm bushings on BMW 3-series models from 1984 through 2005. One of the most common sources for front-end vibrations on BMWs and MINIs is worn front control arm bushings. If all other front-end suspension and steering parts are verified to be in proper functioning condition, it is likely that the control arm bushings have become soft and are allowing the suspension control arms to oscillate, causing the vibrations that can be felt through the chassis and the steering wheel. Replacing the control arm bushings on the 3-series BMW models from 1984 through 2005 (E30, E36, E46), can be accomplished by most DIYers in just a couple hours .... If we have the proper tools. In addition the a floor jack, jack-stands and common metric tools ranging from 16mm through 19mm (in most cases), we need the control arm bushing removal and installation tool kit. In this DIY we will show how to remove and replace the control arm bushings on the BMW 3-series models as noted above, using the control arm bushing replacement tool set. Note that we will be installing the pre-assembled control arm bushing and mount bracket assemblies. This will allow us to replace the bushings without access to a hydraulic press. TOOLS: Control arm bushing removal and install tool: http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=kt20249 Bentley repair manual; as applicable to BMW or MINI model: http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=5228 ½" drive socket set, to include; 16mm through 19mm sockets (depending on model), ratchet and extensions. 24mm combination wrench 27mm combination wrench or ½" drive socket Pry bars PARTS: Control arm bushings with mount brackets, as applicable to BMW or MINI model: http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=162 This general outline for 3-series control arm bushing replacement assumes that the proper Bentley repair manual is at hand. PROCEDURE: 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. NOTE: Some models may require removal of splash panels or shields in order to access the control arm bushing mount brackets. 3) Remove the rear control arm bushing mount bracket by removing the two bolts securing the bracket to the vehicle. Note the position and overall relationship of the bracket and how it is mounted to the uni-body frame rail, for the future re-installation. 4) Use the control arm bushing removal/install tool to remove the bushing and bracket assembly from the end of the control arm pin. 5) Press the new bushing/mount assembly onto the control arm, using the bushing removal/install tool. Note that some urethane bushings may not require a press for this operation. Note that rubber bushings require a lubricant to allow them to be pressed onto the arm. BMW specifies a special lube that dries after assembly .... we like to use Silicone spray, diluted dish soap or hair spray as alternatives. Take note of any alignment marks, as well as the proper orientation (left / right and front / back) of the mount bracket. Most of the applications will install with the mounting arm, on the mount bracket, being parallel and in-line (on the same plane) with the forward end of the control arm. 6) Install the bolts for the bushing mount bracket and torque to specs (see the proper Bentley manual). 7) Replace the splash shields and the wheels/tires and torque the lug bolts to the proper torque spec. Lower the vehicle. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).
How To: Change BMW E46 Lower Control Arm Bushings in 10min
a quick video showing how to change the lower control arm bushings. Vehicle is a 2001 BMW 325i wagon Start to finish in real time, might take about 30 min in the driveway, but a great DIY. Symptom: A clunk noise when tapping brake pedal Fix your front end!
Replacing upper / thrust control arm on late model BMW 5, 6, 7 and X series
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14819 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for control arm and bushing replacement on an E60, E61 chassis 5-series BMW (3 series 04-10). This procedure can be followed for all 5-series models from 2004 through 2011 (exc 2010 GT), 6-series (E63, 64) 2004 through 2010 (and coupe through 2013), 7-series (E65, 66) 2001 through 2009 as well as 3-series 06-on (E90, E91, E92. E93 and F30), 5-series 11-on (F07, F10), 6-series (F12, F13), 7-series (F01, F02), Z4 (E89) and X1, X3, X5 and X6 models with minor detail differences. The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures and torque values for your given BMW model, to include those for the models and chassis not listed here. PARTS USED: • Upper (thrust/strut) control arm * New lock-nuts for ball-joint and bushing bolt TOOLS USED: * Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool - • 3/8" drive Torx bit socket set * 3/8" drive Allen metric bit socket set * 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions • 1/2" drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 16mm - 21mm • open-end wrench set, 16mm-21mm • Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. 3) Remove the under-chassis splash panel(s). 4) Remove the nut on the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on the end of the ball joint's through-pin. Once the nut is loose, the through-pin will rotate with the nut (this is NOT a tapered pin as is common on earlier designs). Use the applicable Torx or Allen bit, inserted into the end of the through-pin, to secure the pin and remove the nut. NOTE: DO NOT use a pickle-fork (or other ball-joint separator tools) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball-joint through pin is not tapered and does not require any type of separator tool. 5) Loosen the nut on the through-bolt for the control arm bushing mount. 7) Remove the strut clamp through-bolt and the remaining bolt securing the swaybar endlink bracket to the steering knuckle. Move the swaybar endlink bracket aside. 8) Use the steering knuckle strut clamp spreader tool to slightly widen the strut clamp. 9) Pull the steering knuckle assembly down a few inches so that the control arm ball-joint can be pulled up and out of the steering knuckle assembly (see step 10 before attempting to pull the ball-joint out). 10) Remove the control arm bushing through-bolt. 11) Remove the control arm ball-joint from the steering knuckle. 12) Install the new control arm by inserting the ball-joint into the steering knuckle and the bushing up into the mounting bracket. Insert the bushing through-bolt. 13) Push the steering knuckle up to seat the strut fully into the clamping saddle (a hydraulic jack may be useful to push the steering knuckle assembly up). Be sure that the strut is properly seated into the clamping saddle. 14) Remove the steering knuckle spreader tool. 15) Install the swaybar endlink bracket with the bracket bolt and the steering knuckle through-bolt. Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the Bentley repair manual. 16) Using the Torx or Allen bit and open-end wrench, tighten the ball-joint hut to the specified torque (Bentley repair manual). 17) Install the control arm bushing through-bolt nut. Do not fully tighten the nut. NOTE: The control arm must be positioned at normal ride height before tightening the control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. This can be accomplished by carefully (and with extreme caution) jacking under the control arm ball-joint until the chassis shows signs of lightening on the jack-stand or by lowering the vehicle onto ramps (so you can still work under to access the bushing bolt and nut). 12) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/14819 -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at email@example.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).