Here's a short video of my 4g64 with 4g63 head Build-up.
I still need to tune the motor a little as you can see or hear in the video, the motor sounds a little rich specially after 7000 rpms. Dyno video coming soon... Hope you liked it..
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
JRSC ITR Build Up - Chapter 1
This clip shows the progression of my JRSC supercharged B18c-R DC2 Honda
from it's humble beginnings as a turquoise Vti-R to how it look today.
This movie has a bit of a sad ending. Bye bye B18c-R.
Thats ok though, chapter 2 shows the re-power with a JE/Eagle forged B18c
and a bit more Boost + methanol :)
Credit to Adam Plews for the initial build, my part comes later
Music by Pendulum - Planet Orion
**** For all the haters of the rear bumper, this video is actually getting
pretty old now, the holed bumper is long gone, now replaced by a plain 98
6 bolt 4g63 in 2g Eclipse GSX cylinder head removed in under 10 mins
Removing the head of a 4G63 in 10x speed.
The project got delayed a few months. After finishing it and cranking it
over, Interference in the cylinder was discovered. Shamefully, I admit my
mistakes were: 1) Not putting the spark plugs in immediately after
installing the head. 2) The bad habit of using my Valve Cover as a parts
tray and 3) Putting off the project too long, so I didn't recognize a
missing bolt from a custom fabrication.
The head needed new valve seats, valves and some welding. Wiseco and the
machinist both thought I'd be OK running the piston after smoothing out hot
spots, but I ordered a new piston not wanting to risk the deep gouge in it
with the high Boost I plan to run.
Peace of mind is priceless.
The danger in being over confident is sometimes you skip triple checking
stuff. I've built that engine at least 5 times and got careless.
You can see the port work I did on the head @
http://www.southernutahautos.com under "Tech Tips" and "Beyond Bolt-ons"
nastiest galant ever...UNTUNED first startup
2.4 fully built bottom end hyundai built dohc head jmf fab intake manifold
ebay headers lol precision 6262sp tial 44mm wastegate wiseco 8:8:1 pistons
eagle i beam rods acl race bearings all around
arp rod and head studs 90mm tb obx adj cam gears EVO 8 greddy kevlar timing
belt rfl bov knockoff custom 3 1/2 inch downpipe and screamer pipe heat
wrapped clutchmasters stage 4 clutch with fidanza 8lb flywheel ngk -7
sparkplugs all running on megasquirt ecu untuned
Danny's 4G63 Engine Build Part 3
Finished up the rotating assembly today. Pistons rings installed, and Rods
are torqued down to the crank now. Next up is bolt on stuff.
4g63 Coil On Plug 201
This is a continuation from my earlier coil-on-plug how-to video. I was
troubleshooting an ignition problem where I couldn't Boost over 14 PSI without misfiring or
backfiring despite having an ignition amplifier, and this is what worked to
completely resolve my troubles.
There's lots of information about what parts work well on a 4g63 (and their
relevance) as well as lots of reports about people having ignition problems
once they're installed. I noticed that there's not really any instruction
available regarding ideal methods for trimming the longer Chrysler boot
down to the size and shape for a 4g63 setup. Some of this could be due to
the depth of various COP mounting plates, but this video is intended as an
effort to help fill that void regardless of why.
If the boots are not trimmed properly, then as combustion chamber pressure
increases, the possibility of the spark arcing from the plug into the plug
well is possible. This can happen on improperly insulated plugs, or as a
result of an old worn boot. The solution if your coil resistance is
good... is to run down to NAPA and buy yourself a set of new boots. They
come with new springs. They just need to fully-sleeve the spark plug's
ceramic insulator, and make good electrical contact internally. If air can
get in and out, so can spark.
FYI: When inspecting older worn-out boots, wherever spark leaks through
leaves a white spot.