How to Change Valve cover gasket - GM Buick 3800 V6 (show-How)
this video will "SHOW" How-to (DIY) replace the rubber gasket to a plastic valve cover,in event to prevent any oil leaks. EXPLAINING/in-tell to Valve Cover Removal for the Buick 3800 series II engine in the front wheel drive engine application. Replacing Valve cover Gasket for L67 and L32 V6 engine with a Plastic valve cover.Chech Plastic Valve Cover for Warp-age before replacing its Gasket.
Chevy(2004 yr)Impala 3800 series II engine
PLEASE - RATE -COMMENT AND SUBSCRIBE
Buick (2000 yr) Park Ave 3800 series II engine(exposing the effect of defected engine mount).
The broken front mount on the make and model will also cause damage to the
CV-axle joint and transmission differential .This video show the effect of
a broken mount inside a 2000 yr Buick Park Ave front engine/transmission
mount.This application is the same(1997-2006)for Park Ave
Ultra(supercharge) Pontiac Bonneville.All H-Body.How to replace engine
mount for Front wheel drive cars.
How find a bad engine mount.
How to find a damage motor mount.
How to identify a damage engine mount?.
How to find a damage engine mount on a car?.
Why is my car slow at acceleration?.
why does the car engine jump when placed into gear?.
Impala - Rear Valve Cover Gasket replacement (3800 Series II)
This is how you change the rear valve cover gasket on a Chevy Impala 3.8L
(3800 Series II). The method used in this video is WITHOUT taking off the
fuel rail and fuel injectors and plenum. This present a problem with a
tricky bolt that's next to the fuel injector. You don't necessarily save
time doing it this way as opposed to removing the Plenum and fuel
rail/injectors but it's less hassle if you're worried about seating the
injectors back into place and everything. It will take you some time to get
one of the 13mm bolts out that's next to the second injector in the back.
Also this method was attempting to get the valve cover off without removing
the alternator and tensioner assembly. There is not enough clearance to
lift the cover off without removing it. So go ahead and remove the
1. Disconnect Neg Terminal from the battery (8mm)
2. Remove the plastic cover by twisting off the oil cap piece
3. Remove the rear "brace bar" (black bar going from left to right) two
13mm on each side
4. Remove the Coolant Recovery tank and set aside (two 10mm nuts)
5. Remove the alternator
6. Remove the bracket holding the alternator to the engine by the fuel
injector (10mm I believe)
7. Remove the tensioner assembly (Three 15mm bolts, one of them is hidden)
8. Remove 6 valve cover bolts (10mm)
Follow in reverse order to re-assemble, use Permatex Medium blue loctite on
the the bolts for the valve cover, you can also change the grommets, but
it's not necessary. (They are only $10 for both front and back valve
Impala - Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (Front) 3800 Series II
This is how to replace the Front Valve Cover Gasket on the 2002 Chevy
Impala 3.8L (3800 Series II)
This is a fairly simple job, to do this you will need the following Tools:
1. Socket & Ratchet set including 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm
2. Valve Cover Gasket Replacement by Felpro ( Part Number: VS50080R) $14.99
3. RTV Black by Permatex (Part Number: 82180) (not necessary but nice to
4. Torque Wrench that reads Inch/Pounds NOT Foot pounds. Harbor Freight has
them for ($10-$15) (Harbor Freight Tools Part #2696) The one at harbor
freight is 1/4 drive so if you have a 3/8 inch socket set get a universal
adapter set for about $4.
5. Alcohol, acetone, or brake parts cleaner
6. Toothbrush to scrub the valve cover where the gasket will sit
This whole job can be done for less than $50 including the cost of the
torque wrench. I was quoted about $250 just to change the front valve cover
gasket by a local shop.
Fixing A Car That Smokes Under The Hood
Scotty Kilmer. mechanic for the last 45 years, shows how you can fix your
car if smoke is coming out from under the hood. Leaking oil on the Exhaust often does causes smoke to appear as
the oil hits the Exhaust, and you can
easily fix it yourself if you know what to look for.
How To Replace The Intake Tensioner Coolant Elbow 1992-99 Buick Lesabre
If you are slowly loosing coolant look at the passenger side of your engine
between the coils and alternator. You will see a small plastic elbow that
is prone to cracking and gasket or O ring failure. If your engine
antifreeze is leaking from this location you will need to replace your
coolant elbow. This video is applicable to the Buick LeSabre, years 92, 93,
94, 95, 96, 97, 98, and 99.
Oil Pan Replacement Pontiac Grand Prix GM 3800 Engine Buick Chevrolet
Oil Pan Replacement GM3800 Engine
This is how I replaced the rusted out oil pan on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix
with GM L67 3800 Series II Supercharged engine. The same applies for the
non supercharged L36 3800.
*** I am not a mechanic and have no training whatsoever. I am not
responsible if you follow the explanations in this video and damage parts
or incorrectly install a component or cause injury to yourself or somebody
else. Major engine components, such as oil pans, should only be changed by
a qualified professional and this video is for
entertainment purposes only. ***
How to use RTV and properly make a gasket
Learn how to use RTV to make a rear differential gasket, waterpump gasket,
oil pan gasket, thermostat gasket, valve cover gasket, or whatever needs a
gasket but you cant find a gasket. Using this method will help make sure
you seal whatever you are working on, properly. If you dont use the RTV
gasket maker correctly then you can get a leak and all that hard work was
How to Change Fluid in Rear Differential, How to Change Rear Differential
Gasket, How to Change Fluid in Rear Differential : How to Change Rear
Differential Gasket, silicon, RTV, rvt, trv, rtv gasket, rtv valve cover,
how remove gasket, cylinder head gasket, loctite rtv silicone, loctite, rtv
vs gasket, black rtv silicone, high temp rtv, high temperature rtv, change
differential fluid, oil pan gasket, red rtv, gasket making, pontiac vibe,
windshield repair, head gasket, rtv silicone gasket, rtv gasket, room
temperature vulcanizing, rubber gasket, rubber gasket maker, gasket maker,
rtv silicon, chrisfix, chris fix,
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, it cannot guarantee against
unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this
information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury
incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working with power tools,
automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt
instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or
implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no
information contained in this video shall create any express or implied
warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss
that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the
information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user
and not ChrisFix.
How To Replace The Head Gasket and Intake Manifold Gaskets On A GM 3800 Engine
In this walkthrough I replace the head gaskets, upper intake manifold (UIM)
gaskets, and lower intake manifold (LIM) gaskets on a 1997 pontiac
bonneville. These steps will be identical for almost any GM 3800 / 3400 /
3100 series II motor.
If you have any questions feel free to post them on the video and I'll do
my best to try to help!
Here is a link to the the text walkthrough I used as a guide for making
Also here's a list of torque specs for most of the motor:
Camshaft Bolt: 74 ft/lbs + 90 degrees angle torque
Camshaft thrust plate: 132 in/lbs (T30 torx)
Front cover bolts: 15 ft/lbs + 40 degrees angle torque
Oil pan bolts: 125 in/lbs
Crank sensor nuts: 18 ft/lbs
Camshaft sensor bolts 48 in/lbs
Lifter hold-downs: 22 ft/lbs
Rocker bolts: 11 ft/lbs(132in/lbs) + 90 degrees angle torque
Lower intake bolts: 132 in/lbs
Supercharger bolts: 17ft/lbs
Crank Bolt: 111 ft/lbs + 76 degrees angle torque up to 10/98
111 ft/lbs +114 degrees angle torque 10/98 and up
Cylinder head bolts: 37 ft/lbs + 130 degrees + 30 degrees up to 10/98
37 ft/lbs + 120 degrees
Flywheel/flexplate bolts: 132 in/lbs + 50 degrees
Exhaust manifolds: stud/nuts 132
Nuts 156 in/lbs
Oil filter adapter to timing cover: 22 ft/lbs 97 earlier
132 in/lbs + 50 degrees 97 and later Oil pump
Cover to timing cover: 98 in/lbs
Pick up tube and screen: 132 in/lbs
Valve cover bolts: 89 in/lbs
Tstat bolts: 21 ft/lbs
Water Pump: 132 in/lbs + 80 degrees
Water pump pulley: 115 in/lbs
Throttle body: 84-89 in/lbs
Fuel rail nuts: 75-84 in/lbs
Buick - Engine Noise and Repair Techniques (1993)
This video, taken from Buick's Know-how Series (KH-168), discusses engine
noise and repair techniques for early 90's Series 3300/3800 engines. Topics
covered include: general repair tips, noise diagnosis for knocking/ticking,
and piston pin rattle.
Engine Coolant Thermostat replacement 3800 V6 engine - Pontiac Bonneville P0128 OBD II Code repair
My check engine light came on in the fall of '09 so I had the code pulled.
It was P0128- Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat
Regulating Temperature). I decided to check and replace the thermostat. It
was the problem and has been fine since. Overall the job took about 45 min
to 1 hour including draining, warming the engine, and refilling the cooling
system. It was a pretty easy fix. This problem causes the engine to run too
cool because the thermostat is stuck open, causing more coolant to go
through the radiator than necessary. Ignoring this problem causes the fuel
mixture to be too rich, which will cause poor fuel economy.
3800 Lower Intake fix
Just some nuggets of wisdom for fixing a leaking lower intake gasket on a
GM 3.8L Series 2 V6.
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion
strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they
can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure
in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by.
Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why
they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You
don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil
viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from
the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by
connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can
be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can
easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that
pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase
pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings
from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover
gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to
escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One
of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is
having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then
there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also,
on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works
against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV
system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple
breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the
breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the
throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The
PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the
intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake
than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at
idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of
the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is
always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger
than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when
you're under Boost... that's all the
blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11
PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of
Boost, this is a system which is
frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as
well look at your Boost controller
as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is
bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of
creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced
techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs
do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high
crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption
that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum.
Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals
without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but
that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and
rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad
shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and
leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no
vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates
the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a
catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation.
I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air
that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever
building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require
gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal
to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings.
One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract
gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.