2 Pcs Front Wheel Bearing & Hub For 96-2006 Chrysler Sebring 95-06 Dodge Stratus for Sale

Price: $50.16

  • Specifications:
  • - Fits both LH (Driver Side) & RH (Passenger Side) FRONT- Nothas ABSSensor- Direct fit, designed for vehicle specific application on all makes and models- Latest generation design used in manufacturing our hub assemblies- High quality seal design ensures a clean, long lasting hub bearing- Sensors designed to match specific make and model- Precision machined and pre-coated with anti-corrosion lubricant- Manufactured for quick and easy installation
  • For the following years and models:
  • 2 Pcs Front Wheel Bearing & Hub For 96-2006 Chrysler Sebring 95-06 Dodge Stratus

    Specifications:

    - Fits both LH (Driver Side) & RH (Passenger Side) FRONT
    - Nothas ABSSensor
    - Direct fit, designed for vehicle specific application on all makes and models
    - Latest generation design used in manufacturing our hub assemblies
    - High quality seal design ensures a clean, long lasting hub bearing
    - Sensors designed to match specific make and model
    - Precision machined and pre-coated with anti-corrosion lubricant
    - Manufactured for quick and easy installation

    For the following years and models:

    • Fits Chrysler Cirrus 1995-2000
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 1996-2000
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 2001-2005
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 2006
    • Fits Dodge Stratus 1995-2006
    • Fits Plymouth Breeze 1996-2000

    Packing include:

    2 Pcs wheel hub bearing

    1 Year Warranty

    How to Install a Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly:

    1. Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake.
    2. Place a wheel chock behind a rear tire (or front if you're doing a rear hub-bearing assembly).
    3. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel of the hub bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; do not remove them.
    4. Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present.
    5. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
    6. Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket.
    7. Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight-edged screwdriver and support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose.
    8. Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles, the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. On other models, the pads stay intact and may be clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure you're able to put them back in the same manner they were extracted.
    9. Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it with a large rubber mallet. Use a rubber mallet if you're not going to replace the rotor, so you don't damage the surface.
    10. Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel-bearing hub assembly, a new one will come with it. If you're not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and unclip it from its mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket.
    11. Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut.
    12. Locate the wheel-bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle, and loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts quickly and easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts.
    13. Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate. Take note of how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing so you can replace it in the same manner.
    14. Sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle with a fine- to medium-grade sandpaper. Move the drive-shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this and make sure it's as clean as possible.
    15. Place the backing plate in its original position and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. Manipulate the drive-shaft spindle splines into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can, making sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present.
    16. Replace the wheel-bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt to make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, use the breaking bar to get the bolts as tight as you can get them.
    17. Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the half-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket.
    18. Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing, if applicable.
    19. Replace the tire and lug nuts, and tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them.
    20. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting.
    21. Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston.
    22. Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and go for a test drive.

    2 Pcs Front Wheel Bearing & Hub For 96-2006 Chrysler Sebring 95-06 Dodge Stratus

    Specifications:

    - Fits both LH (Driver Side) & RH (Passenger Side) FRONT
    - Nothas ABSSensor
    - Direct fit, designed for vehicle specific application on all makes and models
    - Latest generation design used in manufacturing our hub assemblies
    - High quality seal design ensures a clean, long lasting hub bearing
    - Sensors designed to match specific make and model
    - Precision machined and pre-coated with anti-corrosion lubricant
    - Manufactured for quick and easy installation

    For the following years and models:

    • Fits Chrysler Cirrus 1995-2000
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 1996-2000
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 2001-2005
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 2006
    • Fits Dodge Stratus 1995-2006
    • Fits Plymouth Breeze 1996-2000

    Packing include:

    2 Pcs wheel hub bearing

    1 Year Warranty

    How to Install a Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly:

    1. Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake.
    2. Place a wheel chock behind a rear tire (or front if you're doing a rear hub-bearing assembly).
    3. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel of the hub bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; do not remove them.
    4. Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present.
    5. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
    6. Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket.
    7. Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight-edged screwdriver and support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose.
    8. Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles, the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. On other models, the pads stay intact and may be clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure you're able to put them back in the same manner they were extracted.
    9. Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it with a large rubber mallet. Use a rubber mallet if you're not going to replace the rotor, so you don't damage the surface.
    10. Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel-bearing hub assembly, a new one will come with it. If you're not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and unclip it from its mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket.
    11. Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut.
    12. Locate the wheel-bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle, and loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts quickly and easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts.
    13. Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate. Take note of how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing so you can replace it in the same manner.
    14. Sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle with a fine- to medium-grade sandpaper. Move the drive-shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this and make sure it's as clean as possible.
    15. Place the backing plate in its original position and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. Manipulate the drive-shaft spindle splines into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can, making sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present.
    16. Replace the wheel-bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt to make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, use the breaking bar to get the bolts as tight as you can get them.
    17. Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the half-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket.
    18. Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing, if applicable.
    19. Replace the tire and lug nuts, and tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them.
    20. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting.
    21. Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston.
    22. Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and go for a test drive.
    Item SpecificsBrand cn-batteriesManufacturer Part Number cn993817001Placement on Vehicle Driver Side or Passenger Side FrontWarranty 12 monthsMaterial SteelFlange Shape TriangleQty 2 x wheel hub bearingFlange Bolt Hole Quantity 3Bolt Quantity 5Weight 6kgSpline Quantity 26Flange Offset 37.4MMFlange Diameter 127.8MMBolt Circle Diameter 100MMBrake Pilot Diameter 60MMHub Pilot Diameter 85MMWheel Pilot Diameter 56.8MMInterchange Part Number 513138 wheel bearingsFitment For Chrysler Plymouth DodgeOther Part Number 04578144AB, 04593462AA, 4578144AA, 4578144AB, 4593462, 4593462AA,
    Shipping

    WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

    1. Package handling takes about 2 business days at our warehouse, so please make sure entering correct payment and shipping information before checking out. Once your payment is completed, we are not going to accept any more changes to your order.
    2.All domestic orders will be shipped via USPS, UPS or Fedex from our US warehouse and usually arrives to your door in about 2-7 business days.
    3.Local pick up is not available.
    4.Orders to the rest of world may be shipped out from our warehouse in HongKong.
    5.International Buyers C Please Note:
    a. Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyers responsibility.
    b. Please check with your country customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying.]

    Payment

    [We only accept payment through PayPal. You can open a Paypal account at]

    Returns

    1.All of our brand new items come with a 60-Days money-back guarantee.
    2.We define the item as defective only if it doesn't function as described, It is the buyer's responsibility to understand the item description before bidding.
    3.We will replace the defective items, provided that they are in stock within the warranty period posted with the listing and the buyer return the original item and pay for the S&H cost for the replacement.
    4.We will refund the purchase price if the replacement is not available or buyer prefers a refund and send the original item back at his/her own cost.
    5.Shipping& handling cost are not refundable.
    6.Man-made damage by abuse or wrong operation is not covered by this warranty.
    7.No product liability insurance is assumed.
    8.Refunds will be credited within 5 to 7 business days of receiving the return. When we've received and processed the return, we will refund the applicable amount minus any Recovery Fees (See Details Below) for the amount you paid for the item(s), plus any applicable sales tax. ]

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    Q: How do I pay for my purchase?
    A: MY store accepts PayPal.
    Q: When will the item be shipped out?
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    A: Please log on your account, click "my eBay"-->"my summary", or open your email box and find the shipping notification email.
    Q: How do I return an item?
    A: My tore accepts returns. Items must be returned within 60 days. Refunds will be given as money back. Please contact our customer service before you return an item. ]

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    2 Pcs Front Wheel Bearing & Hub For 96-2006 Chrysler Sebring 95-06 Dodge Stratus

    Specifications:

    - Fits both LH (Driver Side) & RH (Passenger Side) FRONT
    - Nothas ABSSensor
    - Direct fit, designed for vehicle specific application on all makes and models
    - Latest generation design used in manufacturing our hub assemblies
    - High quality seal design ensures a clean, long lasting hub bearing
    - Sensors designed to match specific make and model
    - Precision machined and pre-coated with anti-corrosion lubricant
    - Manufactured for quick and easy installation

    For the following years and models:

    • Fits Chrysler Cirrus 1995-2000
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 1996-2000
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 2001-2005
    • Fits Chrysler Sebring 2006
    • Fits Dodge Stratus 1995-2006
    • Fits Plymouth Breeze 1996-2000

    Packing include:

    2 Pcs wheel hub bearing

    1 Year Warranty

    How to Install a Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly:

    1. Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake.
    2. Place a wheel chock behind a rear tire (or front if you're doing a rear hub-bearing assembly).
    3. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel of the hub bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; do not remove them.
    4. Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present.
    5. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
    6. Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket.
    7. Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight-edged screwdriver and support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose.
    8. Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles, the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. On other models, the pads stay intact and may be clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure you're able to put them back in the same manner they were extracted.
    9. Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it with a large rubber mallet. Use a rubber mallet if you're not going to replace the rotor, so you don't damage the surface.
    10. Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel-bearing hub assembly, a new one will come with it. If you're not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and unclip it from its mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket.
    11. Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut.
    12. Locate the wheel-bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle, and loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts quickly and easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts.
    13. Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate. Take note of how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing so you can replace it in the same manner.
    14. Sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle with a fine- to medium-grade sandpaper. Move the drive-shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this and make sure it's as clean as possible.
    15. Place the backing plate in its original position and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. Manipulate the drive-shaft spindle splines into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can, making sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present.
    16. Replace the wheel-bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt to make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, use the breaking bar to get the bolts as tight as you can get them.
    17. Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the half-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket.
    18. Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing, if applicable.
    19. Replace the tire and lug nuts, and tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them.
    20. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting.
    21. Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston.
    22. Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and go for a test drive.


    ShippingPaymentReturnsCustomer ServicesFeedback

    WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

    1. Package handling takes about 2 business days at our warehouse, so please make sure entering correct payment and shipping information before checking out. Once your payment is completed, we are not going to accept any more changes to your order.
    2.All domestic orders will be shipped via USPS, UPS or Fedex from our US warehouse and usually arrives to your door in about 2-7 business days.
    3.Local pick up is not available.
    4.Orders to the rest of world may be shipped out from our warehouse in HongKong.
    5.International Buyers C Please Note:
    a. Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyers responsibility.
    b. Please check with your country customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying.]

    [We only accept payment through PayPal. You can open a Paypal account at]

    1.All of our brand new items come with a 60-Days money-back guarantee.
    2.We define the item as defective only if it doesn't function as described, It is the buyer's responsibility to understand the item description before bidding.
    3.We will replace the defective items, provided that they are in stock within the warranty period posted with the listing and the buyer return the original item and pay for the S&H cost for the replacement.
    4.We will refund the purchase price if the replacement is not available or buyer prefers a refund and send the original item back at his/her own cost.
    5.Shipping& handling cost are not refundable.
    6.Man-made damage by abuse or wrong operation is not covered by this warranty.
    7.No product liability insurance is assumed.
    8.Refunds will be credited within 5 to 7 business days of receiving the return. When we've received and processed the return, we will refund the applicable amount minus any Recovery Fees (See Details Below) for the amount you paid for the item(s), plus any applicable sales tax. ]

    Q: How do I pay for my purchase?
    A: MY store accepts PayPal.
    Q: When will the item be shipped out?
    A: This item will be shipped with 2 business day once payment completed.
    Q: Where is my tracking number?
    A: Please log on your account, click "my eBay"-->"my summary", or open your email box and find the shipping notification email.
    Q: How do I return an item?
    A: My tore accepts returns. Items must be returned within 60 days. Refunds will be given as money back. Please contact our customer service before you return an item. ]

    1. We will leave a feedback once we get your payment.
    2. If you are dissatisfied for any reason, please do contact us afeedback. We will work hard to make sure EVERY CUSTOMER 100% SATISFIED and resolve any problem for you and always leave a feedback to all our customers.
    3. If you are satisfied with the product you received, wish you can leave us a feedback.


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