How To Replace a Starter on 2002 Dodge Neon
Starter is mounted on two 15 mm bolts... you can remove him from the bottom...
No Crank, No Start Diagnosis - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ Whenever you have a no start condition when attempting to start your vehicle it's important to make the distinction between "no crank, no start" and "crank, no start" situations as they are treated differently. This video covers what I do when confronted with a 'no crank, no start' situation and in this case it's a worst case scenario so be sure to watch till the end. Starter diagnosis video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKjdnQ0sHQc No start basics video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4 Parasitic draw video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0 --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Stay dirty ETCG
Dodge neon wont start
Wondering what is causing my 2000 dodge neon not to start. It gives a click then acts as though it will start but no go! Not even a rev. I've changed the camshaft position sensor (CPS) by suggestion of the clerk at o'riellys auto parts. It also was having trouble shifting so I guess I see why he suggested it. Now I just have the issue of not starting in the first place. It's very intermittent and will start on occasion a few times in a row then starts over with the same no crank no start scenario. Ive taken the starter out and had it checked at autozone and it passed. A few times. I brushed off the terminal bolt and made sure everything was tip top with the battery terminals. Any ideas would be helpful!! Oh! And hen I did the key dance the OBD codes I got were p1684 and p1685. The first one is disconnected battery removing the starter and replacing the CPS) the second came up as SKIM key incorrect. I still don't get i though. *UPDATE* I didn't realize this video had any comments on it! I apologize for my negligence, lol. It ended up being a combination of things. I replaced these all at the same time, and so this is the list(don't worry it's short): I unscrewed the small grounding wires along the front of the engine (specifically the ones connecting to the body frame right up front atop the radiator. Just open the hood and look, they're right there in front of you) and I took a wire brush over both contact points. I checked my neutral safety switch, which shifts the transmission into Neutral when in park to let the engine crank when starting. Upon investigation I found that one of the three wires that attach to the rubber harness you unplug to remove the neutral safety switch, was loose within the plastic wire insulation. So I replaced the harness by clipping/stripping the wires where they were still good to remove and replace the old rubber harness with a new one. Super cheap, no worries! Lastly I unplugged the two PCM wire harnesses located on the driver side behind the headlight. You can access them by unscrewing the 2 bolts holding the air filter housing box and lifting it up to expose these 2 grey harnesses. BE SURE NOT TO MIX THESE TWO UP! I unplugged one at a time to prevent a mix up, and blew air duster across the pins in each harness and including the corresponding slots of the PCM. This is all I did to fix it! I removed the starter and took it to autozone to check it, TWICE it is fine! Checked the battery voltage with a multimeter, it was fine! Checked ALL relay and regular fuses, they were fine! Had a friend mechanic check the SKIM key(grey key) and the halo in the ignition column, both checked out fine! I wouldn't rule anything out for yours, but this is what fixed mine! Check these out first, as most are free! Trust me, these are the only things i fixed and it has been running ever since! Its been well over a year running now!
How To Test and Replace the Neutral Safety Swtich / Inhibitor Switch P0705
Click Here to Subscribe! http://youtube.com/carsntoys Website: http://carsntoys.net How to test an inhibitor switch or neutral safety switch. You'll need a multi-meter that's able to test continuity. (Most multi-meters have this function.) Turn up your volume a bit on this one. The battery in my multi-meter was almost depleted and it's a little tough hearing the audible indicator. This was performed on a 1997 Nissan Maxima. Check with your vehicle's repair manual for testing parameters. The inhibitor switch detects the selector position and sends a signal to the A/T control unit. P0705 is a malfunction detected when the A/T control unit does not receive the correct voltage signal from the switch based on the gear position. It comes down to either the harness connector or the inhibitor switch itself. Note: This video is being performed by an experienced tech. Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, use safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.