Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra
cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)...
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Volvo Engine head porting/ matching exhaust
Gasket matching my Exhaust port on the
Nothing spectacular and quite boring to watch but quite tricky to do.
The point on this "process" is to align correctly the Exhaust port with the Exhaust manifold to allow gas to flow without
it can exit faster and let more
fresh air come inside the cylinder.
In the same time the shape of this port is important :
the very light conical shape is a good and reliable design for Exhaust.
the point is to grind very far to have a tight curve and not only grind to
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average
Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an
original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate.
My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I
do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again.
Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead
and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings
will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a
hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first.
The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows:
Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust
and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral
spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale.
The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence
happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from
powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If
following these instructions to the letter of the law.
Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine.
You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm
not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I
don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the
windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down
This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the
same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent.
You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY
CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in
this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that
I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm
learning about it just like the rest of you.
Porting an aluminum intake manifold, basics of porting and polishing.mpg
Porting and Polishing Basics. Porting on an aluminum intake. A few
principles and techniques for porting. The therory and approach discussed
can be applied to porting most intakes and porting and polishing in
general. Abrasives, carbide burrs, surface finish, porting tools and tips.
Equipment from CC Specialty Tools (ccspecialtytool.com)
Cylinder Head 106 - Casting & Porting Tech
No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes
without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but
we're almost there...
...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a
Porting an eBay 20g turbocharger
The price of this turbo will make it a
popular purchase, so I figured I'd air out some tech about ways to improve
it. This thing is not for everybody. I wouldn't feel comfortable bolting
it on my car the way it comes out of the box. I could complain about its
flaws except that so far absolutely none of them have been a deal-breaker
for me. To me it's like an empty canvas. I promise to eat those words if
it happens, and share my poop. Usually I can easily correct these flaws
myself and so can you.
If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could
easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car. Something you could
do with a free running 1g, a hacksaw, and about $500 worth of fuel
upgrades. Yeah, that would be ridiculous, and I'm bolting it onto a
well-modified car... But that being possible speaks volumes for what a DSM
can really do.
This is no big deal to me. I'd rather guinea pig my car for you in HD so
you guys can decide whether or not you'd spend your money on this. Really
it's an experiment because this isn't my daily-driver, and it contributes
to building a better Colt.
Tools I used involve:
Milwaukee model ???? 1/4" straight-shaft electric DIY grinder
Cone and ball-shaped double-cut burs
180 grit high-speed flap wheel
Dremel with a flex-shaft and a tiny 320-grit flap wheel
a zip tie
10mm combination wrench
tiny flat-blade screwdriver (00) for the e-clip on the wastegate
How to port and polish high performance v8 heads,tips,tricks and trade secrets exposed
*******CHECK OUT PART 2 *****
COMBUSTION CHAMBERS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D63jgJs95gY
I look at porting and polishing high performance heads,I been
building engines for 30 years, most of that time in research and
development,I explain in real simple terms air flows and velocities,these
308ci General Motors Holden heads have been transformed over 70 hours,I
show you all the do's and dont's,keep a lookout for the rest of the
rebuild vids, as we head into final assembly,especially dialing in
camshaft's,compression ratio's and everything else that makes internal
combustion engines cranky,Aussie Heads and Race Engines-One Man One Shop