Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

Part 1: Installing shocks, struts and springs on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46)

BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14307 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In Part-1 of this two part series, we will replace the front shock/strut/spring assembly. See Part-2 for the rear shock and spring replacement. The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if desired). PARTS USED: • New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.) • New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto, Eibach, etc.) • New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads, etc.) • New upper strut and shock mounts • New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required) • Rear shock mount reinforcing plates TOOLS USED: • Bentley Repair Manual • BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set * BavAuto spring compressor tool • 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions • 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use) • 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: FRONT (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but others are similar): 1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging. 2) Remove the wheels. 3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link's upper joint (as well as the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench. This particular link is 16mm. 4) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the opposite side (some models do not use nuts, the bolt threads into the clamp). 5) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside. Note that other models may have these hoses mounted in a bracket that is affixed to the shock/strut housing. In these cases, remove the wires and hose from the bracket. 6) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors may only be present on one side of the vehicle. 7) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed. 8) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body (strut tower), under the hood. 9) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-6, and lower the strut assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the wedge into the split in the clamp, widening the clamp, allowing the strut to be removed. 10) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from the wheel well area. 11) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly. Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved from the upper and lower spring seats. 10) Remove the upper shock/strut nut that is at the top of the assembly, in the center of the upper mount. To remove the nut, you can use the method shown in the Spring 2007 issue of our Fast Times newsletter, page-7, or you can use an impact gun. DO NOT use an impact gun for re-assembly! 11) Once the nut is removed, disassemble the upper mount, upper spring perch and washers from the shock's piston rod. Keep track of the various washers and their locations. 12) Pull the spring (and compressor) off of the shock/strut. 13) Assemble the new shock/strut and/or spring. 14) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/ -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).


 


More Videos...


Part 2: Installing shocks, struts and springs on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46)
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14307 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In Part-2 of this two part series, we will replace the rear shock and spring. See Part- for the front shock/spring/strut replacement. The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if desired). PARTS USED: • New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.) • New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto, Eibach, etc.) • New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads, etc.) • New upper strut and shock mounts • New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required) • Rear shock mount reinforcing plates TOOLS USED: • Bentley Repair Manual • BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set • 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions • 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use) • 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: REAR (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but the E36 3-series uses the same steps and procedures): 1) Safely raise the rear of car, with suspension hanging. 2) Remove the wheels. 3) Place a jack under the lower shock mount eye or the wheel hub assembly. Slightly raise the suspension (just enough to remove the downward tension on the shock). 4) Remove the lower shock mount bolt. 5) Lower the jack and allow the suspension to hang free. 6) Remove the trunk side trim panel to access the upper shock mount. 7) Remove the two 13mm nuts from the upper shock mount, at the top of the shock tower. 8) Lower the shock out of the vehicle. 9) Assemble the new shock with new compression bumper, dust tube and upper mount. Be sure to re-use the large lower and upper washers for the upper mount. These washers must cup away from the mount. lower washer cups downward and upper washer cups upward. 10) If the spring is being replaced, it can be removed BEFORE re-installing the shock. Have a helper pull downward on the wheel hub assembly and pull the spring out from between the chassis and the upper control arm. 11) Using new upper and lower spring pads, install the new spring in the same manner as the original was removed. Install the new spring pads, then install the spring. 12) Install the new shock. Place a new shock mount gasket on the shock mount and insert the assembly up into the shock tower. If installing a shock mount reinforcement plate, place the plate over the two shock mount studs, on top of the shock tower, before installing the two nuts. Install the two nuts. Install the trunk trim panel. 13) Install the lower shock mount bolt. Be sure to install the washer on the bolt before installing the bolt. Use the jack to raise the suspension assembly to align the lower shock mount with the hub mounting point, so the bolt can be inserted and threaded. Tighten the bolt. 14) Repeat for the other side. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





How to install a performance free-flow exhaust on a BMW or MINI
BLOG ARTICLE:http://blog.bavauto.com/14271 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- Installing a performance free-flow muffler or Exhaust system on your BMW or MINI is a task that most DIYers should be able to complete in a couple hours to half a day. Most systems are a direct bolt-on to replace the original parts or a simple cut-in, where the pipe is cut and the new system slips over the cut end of the pipe. The new systems hang from the original mounting points and center into the rear valance opening in the same manner as the original systems. Since the installation of a full bolt-on system is as straight forward as simply removing the old system and installing the new system in exactly the same manner, in this DIY we will show you a typical cut-in system installation. The only specialized tool that you will need is a pipe cutter, such as the one that we offer. Follow along as we install a Scorpion Free-Flow muffler set on a 2007 335i. Then, listen to the before and after sound clips. Of the 100% stainless steel systems that we offer, the Scorpion system is our quietest Free-Flow system (on most models). For a bit more "European" sound, choose the Remus systems. For those who wish to have the most aggressive Exhaust sounds (and performance), we suggest the MagnaFlow and the Billy-Boat systems. Remember, all of these systems are 100% stainless steel. PARTS USED: • Scorpion Free-Flow Mufflers for BMW 335i • Wurth Exhaust Assembly Paste • New rubber Exhaust hangers, as needed. TOOLS USED: • MechanicAll penetrant and lubricant spray • Exhaust tubing cutter • SafeGrip Gloves • 10mm through 15mm 3/8" drive socket and ratchet set with various extensions • 10mm through 15mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat-blade screwdrivers and pry-bars. PROCEDURE: NOTE: We suggest that you work with a helper to support the muffler assemblies during set-up and installation. 1) Safely and properly raise the rear of the vehicle. Drive-on ramps can be used for this procedure, as well as a floor-jack and jack-stands. NOTE: This DIY is performed on an E90 (06-12) 335i model. This model has two separate mufflers with two inlet pipes and a cross-over pipe between the mufflers. In order to lower these units, mark and cut both inlet pipes and lower as a complete unit. On this vehicle, we separated the two mufflers at the cross-over pipe due to our performing a live DIY for an audience and then a second DIY for our video. In separating the mufflers, we could perform these two full DIYs on one car. 2) Raise and support the new muffler assembly, below the original muffler. Align the hanging points with the original hanging points. Mark the Exhaust pipe in a location that will allow the original piping to be inserted into the new muffler's piping by about 2". Remember, it is better to have to cut a second time to shorten the pipe, rather than be too short on the first cut. 3) Position the pipe cutter around the pipe, at the marked location. Tighten the tool and roll the tool as far clockwise and counter-clockwise as clearance allows. Keep working the tool until the pipe is cut (similar to cutting copper plumbing pipe with a tubing cutter). 4) Support the muffler and disconnect the forward and rear hangers. Unbolt the forward hanger bracket from the chassis. Unbolt the rear hanger from the muffler. 5) Lower the original muffler. 6) Note that the new Muffler has welded on hanger pins for both the front and the rear hangers. 7) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/ NOTE: For this vehicle, and others with separate left and right mufflers, install and align both mufflers at the same time. Do not fully tighten the clamps until you are satisfied that both sides are hanging symmetrically. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





Part 2 Installing tie rods on a BMW with rack & pinion, E30, etc.
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14459 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In Part-2 of this two part series, we will install the front steering tie-rod on a typical BMW with rack and pinion steering. We will be using an E30 3-series (84-91), but these general procedures will apply to most models that have the rack and pinion type of steering system. See Part-1 for the removal. The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard tie-rod replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. PARTS USED: • Tie-Rod (complete, inner & outer) • Rack boot • Rack boot clamps (2) • Tie-rod inner lock plate TOOLS USED: • Bentley Repair Manual * Tie-rod inner end removal tool * Tie-rod outer end removal tool (press) * Boot pinch-clamp pliers * Safe-Grip gloves * 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar (for inner tie-rod end removal tool) * Various 3/8" and/or 1/2" drive sockets and ratchet (13mm through 22mm, depending on model) * Various 13mm through 22mm combination wrenches, depending on model. * Hammer * Flat-blade screwdrivers and/or cold-chisels * Diagonal or end/flush cutters NOTE: In this DIY, we will be replacing the complete tie-rod assembly (as opposed to just replacing the inner or outer joint). We find this preferable as it is typically easier and while only one end (inner or outer) may be worn-out, the other end is likely near the point of wear-out. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (see part-1 for removal): 9) Place the old tie-rod and the new tie-rod assembly on the workbench, side-by-side. Compare the length from the flat face of the inner joint housing (where it mates with the end of the rack) to the center of the outer joint spindle pin. Adjust the new assembly to match the length of the old assembly. DO NOT adjust to the end of the outer joint housing as the casings could be of slightly different sizes. Measure/adjust to the center of the spindle pin. 10) Once adjusted, tighten the adjustment locking clamp or sleeve nut (depending on the application). This adjustment will allow the vehicle to be driven until an alignment can be performed (front toe adjustment), without excessively wearing the tires. 11) Install the new rack boot over the inner tie-rod end and push the boot down the tie-rod so that it clears the inner joint. 12) Install a new lock-plate on the inner tie-rod end (over the threaded end). Note the tab that mates into the cut-out in the end of the rack. Be sure to install the lock-plate so that the tab properly engages into the rack's cut-out. 13) Thread the inner tie-rod end into the end of the rack. Make sure the lock-plate tab aligns with the rack's cut-out (as noted in step-12). Use the thin wrench or the inner tie-rod tool to tighten the tie-rod's inner end to the rack. 14) Use a hammer to bend the lock-plate over the two flats on the inner tie-rod housing. 15) lightly coat the spindle pin of the outer tie-rod end with the Liqui-Moly anti-seize compound. Insert the spindle pin into the receiving eye on the steering knuckle or steering arm. Lightly tab the tie-rod end to seat the spindle pin into the eye. Install and tighten the spindle pin nut. If the spindle pin turns while attempting to tighten the nut, tap the pin into the eye with a bit more force or place a jack under the end and apply upward pressure on the spindle and eye. Torque the nut to the value specified in the Bentley manual. NOTE: Most applications use a lock-nut on the outer joint spindle pin. In these cases ALWAYS use a new nut. Some older applications may use a castellated nut and a cotter-pin. In these cases, ALWAYS use a new cotter-pin. 16) Seat the rack boot over the end of the steering rack outer housing and the mount bushing on the tie-rod. Install the two pinch clamps. Pinch the clamps using the pinch clamp pliers. 17) Lower the vehicle. and arrange to have the front toe adjusted as soon as possible. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





Replacing upper / thrust control arm on late model BMW 5, 6, 7 and X series
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14819 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for control arm and bushing replacement on an E60, E61 chassis 5-series BMW (3 series 04-10). This procedure can be followed for all 5-series models from 2004 through 2011 (exc 2010 GT), 6-series (E63, 64) 2004 through 2010 (and coupe through 2013), 7-series (E65, 66) 2001 through 2009 as well as 3-series 06-on (E90, E91, E92. E93 and F30), 5-series 11-on (F07, F10), 6-series (F12, F13), 7-series (F01, F02), Z4 (E89) and X1, X3, X5 and X6 models with minor detail differences. The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures and torque values for your given BMW model, to include those for the models and chassis not listed here. PARTS USED: • Upper (thrust/strut) control arm * New lock-nuts for ball-joint and bushing bolt TOOLS USED: * Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool - • 3/8" drive Torx bit socket set * 3/8" drive Allen metric bit socket set * 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions • 1/2" drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 16mm - 21mm • open-end wrench set, 16mm-21mm • Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. 3) Remove the under-chassis splash panel(s). 4) Remove the nut on the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on the end of the ball joint's through-pin. Once the nut is loose, the through-pin will rotate with the nut (this is NOT a tapered pin as is common on earlier designs). Use the applicable Torx or Allen bit, inserted into the end of the through-pin, to secure the pin and remove the nut. NOTE: DO NOT use a pickle-fork (or other ball-joint separator tools) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball-joint through pin is not tapered and does not require any type of separator tool. 5) Loosen the nut on the through-bolt for the control arm bushing mount. 7) Remove the strut clamp through-bolt and the remaining bolt securing the swaybar endlink bracket to the steering knuckle. Move the swaybar endlink bracket aside. 8) Use the steering knuckle strut clamp spreader tool to slightly widen the strut clamp. 9) Pull the steering knuckle assembly down a few inches so that the control arm ball-joint can be pulled up and out of the steering knuckle assembly (see step 10 before attempting to pull the ball-joint out). 10) Remove the control arm bushing through-bolt. 11) Remove the control arm ball-joint from the steering knuckle. 12) Install the new control arm by inserting the ball-joint into the steering knuckle and the bushing up into the mounting bracket. Insert the bushing through-bolt. 13) Push the steering knuckle up to seat the strut fully into the clamping saddle (a hydraulic jack may be useful to push the steering knuckle assembly up). Be sure that the strut is properly seated into the clamping saddle. 14) Remove the steering knuckle spreader tool. 15) Install the swaybar endlink bracket with the bracket bolt and the steering knuckle through-bolt. Tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the Bentley repair manual. 16) Using the Torx or Allen bit and open-end wrench, tighten the ball-joint hut to the specified torque (Bentley repair manual). 17) Install the control arm bushing through-bolt nut. Do not fully tighten the nut. NOTE: The control arm must be positioned at normal ride height before tightening the control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. This can be accomplished by carefully (and with extreme caution) jacking under the control arm ball-joint until the chassis shows signs of lightening on the jack-stand or by lowering the vehicle onto ramps (so you can still work under to access the bushing bolt and nut). 12) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/14819 -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





1998 BMW 3-Series Shocks, Struts, Coil Springs, and Trailing Arm Bushings Replacement
In this video we replace a lot of suspension parts on a BMW 3-Series, including the shocks, struts, coil springs, and rear trailing arm bushings. Click this link for the parts mentioned in the video. http://www.apdty.com/searchItem.epc?sku=38206015449,38106017449,38106018449 ,37306045502





2005 BMW E46 3-Series Control Arm Replacement
Click here for products featured in this video: http://www.apdty.com/searchitem.epc?lookfor=631020,631031,016912 In this video we'll show you how to replace the control arms and bushings in a BMW E46. This job is also similar to other cars in the 3-series lineup, including the E36.





Car bumper repair, paint,mobile car repairs, in under 10 mins.
BMW rear bumper repair and paint in under 10 mins http://bumperrepairlondon.com/ www.smartenupcarrepairs.com





How to adjust ride height & corner balance your car - KW Suspension DDC - Technik
Setting your ride height is just the start when you switch to coilovers. The real beauty of using KW DDC coilovers for us was in being able to lower the car and maintain the OEM corner balance. KW and other coilovers also let you improve the corner balance or weight distribution of your car if your car doesn't already have a good set up from the factory. Technik and GTChannel show you how to set up the KW Suspension DDC using our project BMW E92 M3. We changed our wheels and tires to a square set up and in doing so raised the front ride height. This changed the handling characteristics. By putting on the DDC coilovers we were able to adjust the ride height and more importantly regain the stock corner weights despite the taller front tires. Robert Choo lends us his expertise and garage to do the adjustments. Visit our friends at KW Suspension. http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/ Technik Playlist http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEGDOTG_1p0e2JPuRq1eQ7C4YUGz9VhFL





ECS Tuning: BMW Coilover Installation
We install the ST Coilover System on our E92 BMW 335i, however, these general steps can be used to install various brands of coilovers on a wide variety of applications. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335i-N54_3.0L/Suspension/Coilovers/





BMW Vanos Noise Repair
BMW 330i Vanos Noise Repair Project to fix the rattle noise from vanos cylinders





BMW 3 Series E46 Front Lower Control Arm, Replacing - How To Replace
In this video, Bentley Publishers senior technical editor Charles Burke and Chip Meyers from Village European illustrate how to replace the front lower control arm 2001 - 2005 BMW 3 Series (E46). For more information on Bentley Publishers line of BMW technical manuals, visit http://www.bentleypublishers.com/





BMW Rear Brakes Replacement, Rear Pads, Rotors, and Brake Sensor E46 3 Series
This video shows you how to replace your brake pads, rotors, and sensor. This procedure can be applied to the front and rear brakes on most BMW's. I also go over some tips to make the job easier and where to apply lubricant to the contact points. I also include all the tightening specs for your brake replacement.





BMW X5 (E53) - Большой тест-драйв (б/у) / Big Test Drive - БМВ Икс 5 (Е53)
Сайт: http://btdrive.ru/ | Twitter: http://twitter.com/bigtestdrive | G+: https://plus.google.com/107490113575465327649 | Instagram: http://instagram.com/bigtestdrive | Facebook: http://facebook.com/stillavinpro | Vkontakte: http://vk.com/stillavinpro Машина 2001 года продолжает б/у-версию «Большого тест-драйва». Этот BMW X5 (E53) пригнали из Германии и, как выяснилось, он не приспособлен к российским реалиям. Каждые полгода владельцу приходится что-то менять. Почему несмотря на это Дмитрий не продает машину, зачем ему мифические номера, как у Рустама Вахидова и Сергея Стиллавина не получилось посадить в автомобиль двух девушек и зачем брутальной машине гламурные диски? Наша партнерская программа http://quizgroup.com/join-now/





BMW Rear Shock Replacement (E46 3-Series Touring Rear) FCP Euro
http://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/ ► We're back with Zach Miller and he's here to give you one of those rare after-hours repairs on your E46 3-Series Touring BMW, a rear shock replacement. BMW Shock Absorber Rear (E46) - Bilstein HD 24-026970 http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-absorber-rear-heavy-duty-325ci-32 5i-330ci-330i-24-026970 FCP Euro specializes in premium OEM, Genuine and Aftermarket car parts for European models. For more information about BMW Car Parts please visit http://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/





Front Shock (Strut) Replacement with Basic Hand Tools
TWITTER: https://twitter.com/CarsNToys FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Carsntoys/118041931705993 PINTEREST: http://www.pinterest.com/carsnt/boards/ Strut replacement on a 1997 Nissan Maxima. As in all my repair videos, I use only basic hand tools. Same procedure for 1995-1999 Maxima's & 1996-1999 Infiniti I30. Similar procedure for other model years. The strut used in this video is Monroe part number 181682. Check your vehicle's repair manual for proper torque specifications. Tools required: Floor Jack Jack Stand 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar Torque Wrench 19mm (or 3/4") socket 17mm socket 14mm socket Ratchet Hammer Flat head screwdriver Safety Glasses Note: This video is being performed by an experienced tech. Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, use safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk.




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

2006 Mazda 3 : 10.150 @ 134.000
Vincent Tiaga, Engine: Mazda I4, Supercharger: na Turbos: na Tires: M&H


2005 Mazda 3 SP23: 11.659 @ 128.790
Kurt Scott, Engine: 2.3L, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: GT3582


2008 Mazda 3 mazdaspeed3: 11.682 @ 117.170
NJSPEED3, Engine: 2.3L mzr/disi , Turbos: T3 HTA3586 .82ar


2008 Mazda 3 MPS: 12.350 @ 119.830
RE-ACTIONENGSPEED3, Engine: mzr, Turbos: k4 hybrid


2009 Mazda 3 Speed3: 12.737 @ 108.510
Daniel Lalonde, Engine: mzrdisi 2,3, Turbos: k04 Tires: Toyo RA1 235/40/17@16psi


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 12.793 @ 106.900
driver311, Tires: m@h 24.5x8.5x15 inch slicks


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed: 12.847 @ 111.635
Dave, Engine: 2.3L MRZ DISI TURBO, Turbos: stock Tires: pontenza


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 12.906 @ 111.140
Laloosh, Tires: STREET


2013 Mazda 3 MAZDASPEED 3: 12.988 @ 107.850
Michael Vincent Sarricchio, Engine: MZR DISI, Turbos: STOCK K04 Tires: FACTORY TIRE


2007 Mazda 3 Speed3: 13.190 @ 110.670
Kyle Hasenheyer, Engine: Stock engine, Turbos: Stock K04 turbo Tires: Venezia Crusade HP


2010 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.264 @ 108.230
Jimmy, Engine: Stock, Supercharger: NA Turbos: Stock Tires: G-force T/A KDW 2's


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring: 13.330 @ 107.980
James Rondepierre, Engine: 2.3L Direct Injected, Turbocharged, Intercooled, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: K04 STOCK Tires: HANKOOK VENTUS V12 EVO (STREET TIRES) (25PSI)


2007 Mazda 3 MazdaSpeed 3: 13.394 @ 104.330
Brandon,


2010 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.485 @ 108.840
Michael Loopy, Engine: 2.3 litre, Turbos: Stock K04


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3 GT: 13.488 @ 103.220
Matt, Engine: 2.3 MZR turbo, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: stock Tires: 245/50/16 Nitto NT555 Extreme Drag's for track onl


2008 Mazda 3 mazdaspeed3: 13.555 @ 103.430
mike speed, Engine: stock, Turbos: stock Tires: winter tire front


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.565 @ 104.700
Darryn Nine, Engine: 2.3L Turbo, Turbos: Stock K04 Tires: 225/45/18 Achilles ATR Sport


2011 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed: 13.572 @ 106.990
Justin, Engine: 2.3 DISI, Turbos: K04


2009 Mazda 3 Speed 3: 13.714 @ 102.430
zack, Engine: intake, BOV, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: stock Tires: stock


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3: 13.736 @ 102.340
BLKSp33d3, Engine: 2.3L DISI Turbo, Turbos: Stock KO4


 


©2014 DragTimes - Disclaimer