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Part 1: Installing shocks, struts and springs on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46)

BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14307 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In Part-1 of this two part series, we will replace the front shock/strut/spring assembly. See Part-2 for the rear shock and spring replacement. The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if desired). PARTS USED: • New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.) • New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto, Eibach, etc.) • New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads, etc.) • New upper strut and shock mounts • New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required) • Rear shock mount reinforcing plates TOOLS USED: • Bentley Repair Manual • BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set * BavAuto spring compressor tool • 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions • 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use) • 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: FRONT (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but others are similar): 1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging. 2) Remove the wheels. 3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link's upper joint (as well as the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench. This particular link is 16mm. 4) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the opposite side (some models do not use nuts, the bolt threads into the clamp). 5) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside. Note that other models may have these hoses mounted in a bracket that is affixed to the shock/strut housing. In these cases, remove the wires and hose from the bracket. 6) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors may only be present on one side of the vehicle. 7) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed. 8) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body (strut tower), under the hood. 9) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-6, and lower the strut assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the wedge into the split in the clamp, widening the clamp, allowing the strut to be removed. 10) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from the wheel well area. 11) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly. Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved from the upper and lower spring seats. 10) Remove the upper shock/strut nut that is at the top of the assembly, in the center of the upper mount. To remove the nut, you can use the method shown in the Spring 2007 issue of our Fast Times newsletter, page-7, or you can use an impact gun. DO NOT use an impact gun for re-assembly! 11) Once the nut is removed, disassemble the upper mount, upper spring perch and washers from the shock's piston rod. Keep track of the various washers and their locations. 12) Pull the spring (and compressor) off of the shock/strut. 13) Assemble the new shock/strut and/or spring. 14) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/ -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).


 


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Part 2: Installing shocks, struts and springs on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46)
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14307 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In Part-2 of this two part series, we will replace the rear shock and spring. See Part- for the front shock/spring/strut replacement. The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if desired). PARTS USED: • New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.) • New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto, Eibach, etc.) • New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads, etc.) • New upper strut and shock mounts • New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required) • Rear shock mount reinforcing plates TOOLS USED: • Bentley Repair Manual • BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set • 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions • 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use) • 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: REAR (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but the E36 3-series uses the same steps and procedures): 1) Safely raise the rear of car, with suspension hanging. 2) Remove the wheels. 3) Place a jack under the lower shock mount eye or the wheel hub assembly. Slightly raise the suspension (just enough to remove the downward tension on the shock). 4) Remove the lower shock mount bolt. 5) Lower the jack and allow the suspension to hang free. 6) Remove the trunk side trim panel to access the upper shock mount. 7) Remove the two 13mm nuts from the upper shock mount, at the top of the shock tower. 8) Lower the shock out of the vehicle. 9) Assemble the new shock with new compression bumper, dust tube and upper mount. Be sure to re-use the large lower and upper washers for the upper mount. These washers must cup away from the mount. lower washer cups downward and upper washer cups upward. 10) If the spring is being replaced, it can be removed BEFORE re-installing the shock. Have a helper pull downward on the wheel hub assembly and pull the spring out from between the chassis and the upper control arm. 11) Using new upper and lower spring pads, install the new spring in the same manner as the original was removed. Install the new spring pads, then install the spring. 12) Install the new shock. Place a new shock mount gasket on the shock mount and insert the assembly up into the shock tower. If installing a shock mount reinforcement plate, place the plate over the two shock mount studs, on top of the shock tower, before installing the two nuts. Install the two nuts. Install the trunk trim panel. 13) Install the lower shock mount bolt. Be sure to install the washer on the bolt before installing the bolt. Use the jack to raise the suspension assembly to align the lower shock mount with the hub mounting point, so the bolt can be inserted and threaded. Tighten the bolt. 14) Repeat for the other side. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





Repairing curbed:scraped alloy wheels on BMWs and MINIs
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/15365 PARTS LIST: * Wheel Repair Kit - http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=aw-kit "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- "Aw, #$%&!!!" You just scraped one of your wheels on a curb. We know exactly how you feel. That's why in 2009, on one of our trips to Germany, we were excited to discover a new wheel repair kit. It claimed to let you repair scraped or gouged BMW and MINI silver alloy wheels all by yourself, with excellent results. We were a bit skeptical, but with replacement wheels costing anywhere from $300--600 apiece, if this kit worked 75% as well as was claimed, it could save BMW and MINI owners a ton of dough. We brought a kit home with us and gave it to one of our Advisors to test. He was very impressed, saying, "From 5 feet away my roommates could not tell where the repair was done. Even after I pointed out where the damage had been, it was still difficult to notice." We published his findings in the Spring 2010 issue of Fast Times.- http://blog.bavauto.com/2543 Since then, thousands of BMW and MINI owners have repaired their wheels using this kit, saving each of them hundreds of dollars. (One kit can do several wheels.) Yet we've also heard from a number of BMW and MINI owners who say that, before they commit to repairing their wheels, they'd like to see exactly what's involved. So we asked Bavarian Otto to make one of his famous DIY videos showing how to use this kit. Watch the video, see how simple the process is, then order the kit by calling 800.535.2002 or shopping in our online store at BavAuto.com. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





Part 1: Installing shocks and struts on a BMW 3 series 06 thru 12 (E90, E91, E92, E93)
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14344 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In Part-1 of this two part series, we will replace the front shock (strut) assembly on a typical BMW E90, E91, E92 and E93 3-series chassis (06-12). See Part-2 for the rear shock replacement. The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Koni Sport shocks. However, the procedures would be the same for any common shock/strut replacement. PARTS USED: • New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.) • New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads, etc.) • New upper strut and shock mounts • New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required) • Rear shock mount reinforcing plates TOOLS USED: • Bentley Repair Manual * BavAuto spring compressor tool • BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set • 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions • 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use) • 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers PROCEDURE: FRONT (applies directly to the E90/91/92/93 3-series, but other late model BMWs are similar): 1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging. 2) Remove the wheels. 3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link's upper joint (as well as the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench. 4) Remove the inner fender liner (in order to access the forward control arm bushing through-bolt. 5) Loosen the forward control arm through-bolt. Do not remove the bolt. 6) Loosen the rearward control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. Do not remove the bolt and nut. 7) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the opposite side (some models do not use nuts; the bolt threads into the clamp). 8) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside. 9) Disconnect the wires and hose from the chassis bracket and the chassis wiring harness plugs, inside the connector box. 10) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors may only be present on one side of the vehicle. 11) Dismount the brake calipr from the caliper mounting bracket, remove the caliper and hang it inside the wheel well area using a wire or stretch cord. 12) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed. 13) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body (strut tower), under the hood. 14) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-12, and lower the strut assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the wedge into the split in the clamp (from the top). This will widen the clamp and allow the strut to be removed. 15) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from the wheel well area. 16) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly. Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved from the upper and lower spring seats. 17) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/ -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





Part 1: Replacing Control Arms in a BMW 3 Series or MINI - BavAuto DIY
PART 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsUUSp2xEos PART 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47UbYE3tExM BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/go/control-arm "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this two part video series Otto will show you how to replace front control arms and control arm bushings on a typical BMW 3-series 84-05 and MINI. Note that while these procedures are shown on an E30 3-series (84-91) BMW, they can also be applied to the E36 3-Series (92-98), E46 3-series (99-05) and MINI models. Of the 3-series and MINI models listed, some will look slightly different or have slightly different hardware but, the basic points and procedures are the same. --- Part one - Control arm and bushing removal steps In this video we will remove the front control arm and control arm bushing on a BMW 3-series (and MINI). Part-2 covers the installation. For a list of the parts and tools used, see the accompanying BLOG post at: http://blog.bavauto.com/go/control-arm 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. 3) If the swaybar end link is connected to the control arm (as on this E30 and most E36 3-series), remove the nut from the underside of the control arm, that secures the end link bracket to the control arm. 4) Release the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on the top of the ball joint's tapered pin, but do not fully remove it. Using a 2 lb to 3 lb short handled sledgehammer (properly called, a drilling hammer), give the knuckle area a series of sharp-forceful blows. If the ball joint's tapered pin does not release from the knuckle, try using a pry-bar to provide downward pressure on the end of the control arm .... while hitting the knuckle with the hammer. This can take a good series of multiple HARD blows with the hammer. If the tapered pin is still not releasing, you will have to resort to a "pickle-fork". Insert the pickle-fork between the ball joint and the knuckle and use the hammer to force the pickle-fork between the two parts. If you get the pickle fork as far as it will go and the joint is still not separating, try repeating the blows to the knuckle (as in the first sequence), with the pickle-fork in place. NOTE: Never use a pickle-fork to separate the ball joints if you intend to reuse the control arm (and ball joints), as the fork will typically tear the ball joint's rubber boot. 5) Release the inner ball joint in a similar fashion to the outer ball joint, with the exception that you will be hitting the cast area of the control arm, where the ball-joint mounts into the arm. Note that it may be necessary to resort to the pickle-fork due to a lack of area to use the hammer, as a first course of action. 6) Remove the rear control arm bushing mount bracket by removing the two bolts securing the bracket to the vehicle. Note the position and overall relationship of the bracket and how it is mounted to the uni-body frame rail, for the future re-installation. 7) Fully remove the nuts on the ball joints and lower the control arm and bushing assembly from the vehicle. NOTE: If you are re-using the control arm bushing mounting brackets and installing new bushings in the brackets, follow steps 8-10. If you are installing pre-assembled bushing and bracket assemblies, skip to step 11. 8) Use the control arm bushing removal/install tool to remove the bushing and bracket assembly from the end of the control arm pin. 9) Using a hydraulic press, press the bushing out of the bushing mount bracket. 10) Using a hydraulic press, press the new bushing into the mount bracket. Note if there are any alignment marks to tend with. The new bushing will either install in the same manner as the old original bushing (alignment marks, etc.), or it will come with an installation sheet outlining the proper installation. Now, click on to Part-2 and continue with the installation of the new control arm and bushing assemblies. --- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





1998 BMW 3-Series Shocks, Struts, Coil Springs, and Trailing Arm Bushings Replacement
In this video we replace a lot of suspension parts on a BMW 3-Series, including the shocks, struts, coil springs, and rear trailing arm bushings. Click this link for the parts mentioned in the video. http://www.apdty.com/searchItem.epc?sku=38206015449,38106017449,38106018449 ,37306045502





2005 BMW E46 3-Series Control Arm Replacement
Click here for products featured in this video: http://www.apdty.com/searchitem.epc?lookfor=631020,631031,016912 In this video we'll show you how to replace the control arms and bushings in a BMW E46. This job is also similar to other cars in the 3-series lineup, including the E36.





Car bumper repair, paint,mobile car repairs, in under 10 mins.
BMW rear bumper repair and paint in under 10 mins http://bumperrepairlondon.com/ www.smartenupcarrepairs.com





Roger's BMW E46 M3 Underside Restoration
We've videod one of our infamous 'Underside Restorations' to show some of the key stages in this 50+ labour-hour project. Roger's E46 M3 had the common cracks and spot welds popped on his E46 M3 Subframe Panel. Roger had also just won 2nd place in the M3cutters' Xmas prize raffle and opted to spend his 2nd place price with Redish Motorsport. The E46 M3 obviously required our Redish Motorsport E46 Rear Subframe Repair & Reinforcement Process as a bare minimum - http://redish-motorsport.com/E46M3FloorSubframeCrackRepairReinforcement.htm l Then, after Roger made the 160 mile round trip from South Wales to go over plans and meet James, Luke, and Pete at Redish Motorsport, he was 'blown away' (his words not ours) with the Underside Restoration work we have carried out in the past. After seeing our working procedure, workshop, the team, and past projects, Roger was hooked and he upgraded to the Redish Motorsport Underside Restoration. Just a brief list of items replaced or refurbished during the process: Redish Motorsport E46 Rear Subframe Reinforcement Plate Kit Full underbody degrease with POR-15 Marine Clean & APC Addressing of surface corrosion areas High build etch priming of floor areas Wurth sprayable seam sealer of floor areas Underbody & arches painted in Pheonix Yellow (445) body colour paint Metal brake pipe repairs Fuel tank & lines & pipes degreased and silicon protected Fuel tank straps powdercoated Diff carrier & ARB & RTAB cradles powdercoated in Matt Black Trailing arms & upper spring arms powdercoated in Chrome Silver Eibach lower camber arms V-brace powdercoated in Chrome Silver Various other small brackets powdercoated in either Matt Black or Chrome Silver OEM rear silencer & centre pipe hand/machine polished then hand waxed Plastics degreased & de-waxed, treated with a silicon sealer Metal heatshields for prop & Exhaust scrubbed & painted VHT silver New rear ARB drop links Bilstein PSS10 (B16) Coilover kit Rogue Engineering Rear Top Mounts Diff rear cover painted in VHT silver Diff body painted in POR-15 Rust Preventative Black Goodridge Braided Brake line kit Drive shafts cleaned & rubbers treated OEM BMW diff/subframe bushes OEM BMW diff front bush Powerflex rear trailing arm bushes OEM BMW anti roll bar bushes OEM BMW trailing arm ball joints x4 OEM BMW upper spring arm inner bushes Wiring for ABS, Pad, Xenon cleaned & protected Fuel supply & return pipes protected/painted with POR-15 Black EVERY SINGLE nut, bolt, washer, clip, screw, fixings & fastener NEW from BMW There probably was more but this is just a quick run down of the spec. If you have any questions or are seriously considering this level of work on your BMW, please get in contact with James and he will be happy to discuss options. Thanks for watching! www.Redish-Motorsport.com www.Facebook.com/RedishMotorsport





How To Install Raceland BMW E30 Coilovers
BMW E30 Installation Front To begin, remove the lug bolts and front rim from the vehicle. On the backside of the caliper remove the two bolts holding the brake to the hub. Pull the caliper off the rotor and position it out of the way ensuring that it is not hanging from the brake line. Locate the speed sensor attached to the rear of the hub and remove the mounting allen bolt. Once the bolt is removed, twist and pull the sensor to detach it from the hub. This speed sensor will also be attached to the top of the brake shield. Unclip the wiring from the shield and move aside. You will now being to remove the hub assembly from the vehicle. To start remove the nut holding the control arm ball joint to the hub. Now on the other side of the hub, remove the nut holding the tie rod arm to the mount. Often times your tie rod end will be wedged into the mount after the nut has been removed. To release this, use a hammer and with moderate force, strike the hub just above the tie rod arm bracket. On the shock body, remove any wiring that may be clipped onto the unit. Simply pull these clips to remove. Like the tie rod end, you may need to strike the control arm bracket above the ball joint to break the taper loose. You may also need to pry the joint away from the hub. Now under the hood, locate the three nuts holding the upper strut mount to the vehicle. Remove these nuts keeping in mind that these are the last mounting nuts holding the shock to the vehicle. You are now able to pull the shock out of the wheel well to begin the next step. Due to the spring tension on the top mount, you'll want to use spring compressors to remove this tension from the strut and mount. Once the unit is secure in the spring compressors it will be safe to remove the top piston bolt from the shock. When this bolt is removed it is now safe to release the tension on the spring compressors. Using a pipe wrench or other strut tool, remove the top cap holding the OEM shock insert into the shock body. The OEM shock insert will now slide out of the housing. Slide the new Raceland shock insert into the OEM housing. Using the supplied Raceland replacement strut cap, tighten this cap completely to secure new insert into housing. The spring new spring seat will thread on to the top of this new cap. Slide the Raceland spring perch over the piston, line up the threads, and tighten the perch to the cap with the supplied wrench. The OEM bump stop will be removed from the old shock, trimmed, and reused with the new coilover setup. Position the Raceland spring on the perch with the smaller end of the spring on the bottom. Place the OEM top mount onto the new spring and thread the new piston bolt onto the strut. While the shock and spring are shorter than the OEM pieces, you still may need to use spring compressors for this step. Tighten this bolt completely. Now that the shock is fully assembled, feed the unit into the wheel well while lining up the three top mounting studs to the shock tower. Back under the hood; reinstall the three nuts holding the top mount to the shock tower. Now position the hub in the correct direction and push the lower ball joint into its mounting location. Tighten the ball joint bolt. The speed sensor will now be reinstalled. Remember that the sensor will slide in offset and twist into place before you can insert the allen bolt to tighten the sensor to the hub. Re-clip the sensor line to the back of the brake shield. Make sure the brake pads are in place and slide the brake caliper back into its correct position on the rotor. Install the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub. Push the tie rod end into its mounting tab on the hub and reinstall the nut. Re-clip any sensor lines you removed from the strut body. Now that everything is secure you can reinstall the front wheel.





Suspension DIY Repair - BMW M5 Dinan Koni Shocks & Swaybar + PowerFlex Bushings
This is not a step-by-step DIY. There are a lot of procedures excluded; this shows the general work-flow. M5Board.com is your friend for torque specs and proper procedures. The bushing press tool rented from Autozone was too small for the Thrust-arms and Controll-arms... do not what we did; Its dangerous, painful and just plain sucks. Get a real bushing press or go pay someone. Music Credit: Royalty Free/Creative Commons TechnoAxe @ YouTube Broke For Free @ FreeMusicArchive http://freemusicarchive.org/music/Broke_For_Free/





ECS Tuning: BMW Coilover Installation
We install the ST Coilover System on our E92 BMW 335i, however, these general steps can be used to install various brands of coilovers on a wide variety of applications. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335i-N54_3.0L/Suspension/Coilovers/





BMW Vanos Noise Repair
BMW 330i Vanos Noise Repair Project to fix the rattle noise from vanos cylinders





BMW Crash Compilation #1
Rate, Share and Subscribe ! Like us on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/topcrashes Car Crash Community: http://gplus.to/carcrashes Follow on Twitter: https://twitter.com/CarCrashWorld





Ryan's 2002 BMW E46 330xi Intro
With the amount of time and money that invested in my 2000 M5 this spring and over the past several years, I can't stand to put it through another brutal Ohio winter. So, this 330xi is my winter car. I plan to maintain this vehicle, and improve the interior so it's still a nice place to spend time. However, it's not getting anywhere near the special treatment that my firstborn will continue to receive for many years. E39Source WEBSITE: http://www.E39Source.com BMW M3Source: http://www.youtube.com/E65Source BMW E46Source: https://www.youtube.com/user/E46Source





Adam LZ Car Check
Adam LZ BMW Car Check - I attempt to explain how cars have played a role in my life and offer a little bit of insight as to the relationship that cars pose with BMX, both positively and negatively, instead of just describing my car for 10 minutes. Yes my car is automatic, yes it is slow, tell me something I don't already know. I grew up driving standard cars, and my skills driving stick would probably surprise you. Anyway, I hope you enjoy this video, it is something I have been wanting to do for a long time. I sold my Style 5s (for $1225) in between the first and second half, which is why my wheels change. I am slowly selling parts of my car, I'm getting rid of my subwoofers next. I will also be selling my entire car before I move to Florida in August, if seriously interested E-Mail adam.lz@hotmail.com with a subject line. 2002 E46 Facelift 325i 94,xxx miles Rockford Fosgate Punch p3 12" Rockford Fosgate Prime R1000-1D 1000 Watt amp Thule Big Mouth Bike Carriers (rack) BBS 17x8 ET20 Style 5 RC090 M-Tech II Bumper Khoalty Angel Eyes Depo Corners/Side Markers 8000K HIDs w/ Digital Ballasts Raceland Ultimo Coilovers 35% Tints Both of the shirts I am wearing in this video are available on http://lzbmx.bigcartel.com Bike check coming soon!




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





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2008 Mazda 3 mazdaspeed3: 11.682 @ 117.170
NJSPEED3, Engine: 2.3L mzr/disi , Turbos: T3 HTA3586 .82ar


2008 Mazda 3 MPS: 12.350 @ 119.830
RE-ACTIONENGSPEED3, Engine: mzr, Turbos: k4 hybrid


2009 Mazda 3 Speed3: 12.737 @ 108.510
Daniel Lalonde, Engine: mzrdisi 2,3, Turbos: k04 Tires: Toyo RA1 235/40/17@16psi


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 12.793 @ 106.900
driver311, Tires: m@h 24.5x8.5x15 inch slicks


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed: 12.847 @ 111.635
Dave, Engine: 2.3L MRZ DISI TURBO, Turbos: stock Tires: pontenza


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 12.906 @ 111.140
Laloosh, Tires: STREET


2013 Mazda 3 MAZDASPEED 3: 12.988 @ 107.850
Michael Vincent Sarricchio, Engine: MZR DISI, Turbos: STOCK K04 Tires: FACTORY TIRE


2007 Mazda 3 Speed3: 13.190 @ 110.670
Kyle Hasenheyer, Engine: Stock engine, Turbos: Stock K04 turbo Tires: Venezia Crusade HP


2010 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.264 @ 108.230
Jimmy, Engine: Stock, Supercharger: NA Turbos: Stock Tires: G-force T/A KDW 2's


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring: 13.330 @ 107.980
James Rondepierre, Engine: 2.3L Direct Injected, Turbocharged, Intercooled, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: K04 STOCK Tires: HANKOOK VENTUS V12 EVO (STREET TIRES) (25PSI)


2007 Mazda 3 MazdaSpeed 3: 13.394 @ 104.330
Brandon,


2010 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.485 @ 108.840
Michael Loopy, Engine: 2.3 litre, Turbos: Stock K04


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3 GT: 13.488 @ 103.220
Matt, Engine: 2.3 MZR turbo, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: stock Tires: 245/50/16 Nitto NT555 Extreme Drag's for track onl


2008 Mazda 3 mazdaspeed3: 13.555 @ 103.430
mike speed, Engine: stock, Turbos: stock Tires: winter tire front


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.565 @ 104.700
Darryn Nine, Engine: 2.3L Turbo, Turbos: Stock K04 Tires: 225/45/18 Achilles ATR Sport


2011 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed: 13.572 @ 106.990
Justin, Engine: 2.3 DISI, Turbos: K04


2009 Mazda 3 Speed 3: 13.714 @ 102.430
zack, Engine: intake, BOV, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: stock Tires: stock


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3: 13.736 @ 102.340
BLKSp33d3, Engine: 2.3L DISI Turbo, Turbos: Stock KO4


 


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