Replaces dual carbs.. and messy linkage.Cuts maintenance costs in half..tons of room for plug removal and replacement. fits in a bus or bug with clearance for the deck lid.sounds better than duals.. and has crisp throttle response at any rpm .. no flat spots even with a oo9 dist, comes to order with your carb base pattern. works well at 40 degrees temps and above . do people actually drive their bugs and busses at night? easy ......................................
Just Built 1776cc VW Beetle Bug Motor - POWERFUL!!!! LOUD!
1776cc newly rebuilt by myself.
Weber 44mm Carb
stock 69mm Crankshaft
stock connecting rods
90.5mm Mahle pistons
Engle 120 Camshaft
Hi Performance lifters with oil gallery (for cam lobes)
042 high performance head with port&polish and 3 angle valve job.
Euro tuck Exhaust with J-tubes
132777 / 1973 Volkswagen Super Beetle
For more information on this vehicle visit http://tinyurl.com/caj7rvk
This incredibly cool 1973 Super Beetle is the perfect car for a
budget-minded collector or someone who is new to the hobby.
Sporting a vivid coat of brilliant blue paint, this fully sorted and
completely road ready '73 Super Beetle is fresh out of a ground up
restoration which likely cost twice as much as we're asking for it. The
restorers began by stripping the car down to its bare floor pan and fully
prepping and rebuilding the body. Once the body was aligned to better than
factory standards, it was disassembled and evenly covered in two-stage
basecoat/clearcoat paint. The end result is a very clean, well-aligned bug
with a smooth finish and outstanding appearance that will provide years of
Powering this sharp '73 Super Beetle is the cars original dual port 1600 cc
air cooled, flat four cylinder, which upon its introduction in 1971 made a
bristling 50 horsepower. Completely
rebuilt during the cars restoration, it runs beautifully with that famous
and distinctive VW sound, and will likely putter along forever with a
minimum of fussing and tuning. At the top of the engine, a mirror-like air
cleaner feeds air to a new Bocar one barrel carburetor. To the left of that
carburetor, a Bosch coil supplies a traditional points distributor that's
equipped with Bosch plug wires. And to the right of that carburetor, a
chrome generator sits above a body-matched oil filler tube and chrome
dipstick. At the back of the engine, a Claudes Buggies ignition system is
affixed to the cars blue firewall, and in front of the engine, a new belt
snakes around blue Scat pulleys and an aluminum Scat tensioner. Exhaust is handled by fresh VW branded headers;
and, like the rest of the car, the entire engine bay has been restored to
show quality standards.
Take one look underneath this VW and you'll see just how much work went
into its complete, nut and bolt restoration. Both the front and rear
suspensions have obviously been completely rebuilt and feature fresh
bushings, fresh shocks and an aftermarket anti-sway bar. At the front of
the car, new disc brakes are equipped with fresh hardware and new pads, and
at the back of the car, rebuilt drum brakes are outfitted with fresh hoses.
Power flows from the motor into a 4-speed manual transmission which turns
four chrome EMPI eight spoke wheels that are wrapped in 175R15 Nanking
front and 205/75R15 Republic Ensign rear radials. The bottom of this Beetle
is spotless and looks spectacular with all-new stainless hardware holding
together straight and solid floors which display a great looking coat of
gloss black paint.
Pop open the door and you'll find a completely custom blue LED lit interior
which features a $2K sound system and is the perfect spot to spend the
afternoon cruising. The driver and front passenger enjoy firm Procar by
Scat buckets, rear occupants ride on a custom covered bench and all
passengers are secured with new, correct lap belts. At the front of the
car, a new for 1973 padded dash shows no warping or fading and, with the
exception of an MP3 compatible Alpine CD player, features the same
minimalist readouts and accessories found in all Beetles. Below the seats,
brand new black carpet lies under custom kick panels that have been
outfitted with large Infinity Reference speakers and a chrome EMPI trigger
shifter. At the sides of the seats, completely painted door jams and window
frames contrast well to custom two-tone door panels which feature new
armrests, billet window cranks and billet lock knobs. Above the seats a
thick and tight custom headliner stretches from door to door and leads the
eye to a reworked package tray which has been professionally upholstered
and houses two more massive Infinity Reference speakers. In front of the
driver, a familiar Grant GT steering wheel makes good use of the cars
reduced turning radius, and in front of the cockpit, a spacious, by Beetle
standards, fully restored front hatch holds a horizontal spare tire.
If you're looking for fun, practical transportation, this fully sorted
Super Beetle looks awesome and is ready to go. Call, click or visit
http://RKMotorsCharlotte.com for more information on this awesome car!
1776cc VW beetle motor
1776cc (69mm x 90.5mm) with dual 40 IDF Weber carbs. Engle 120 cam w/
performance lifters. 40mm x 35mm valves (044 heads). Tri-mil Exhaust. Oil/filter pump combo. Flamethrower II
coil & points replacement. 009 distributor. 8mm performance plug wires.
For a video of this engine running in the car, please click on the link
1966 Dick Landy supercharged VW Beetle
This is an 1835CC DP with the CB perf. offroad special cam. I purchased
the DLI kit complete off a running drag bug for $1500, installed it on my
engine and fired it up. I only ran it briefly since it is wicked
overdriven, (18-20PSI Boost) and I
can only run it on race fuel for $12/gal. Plus at the time I didn't have a
way to tune it so I didn't want to mess up the engine. I have no idea what
the timing and A/F are. I would estimate the HP at around 200 or so.
Tuning a vw solex 34 pict 3 carb on 1904cc Option 1
I couldn't find any good info on how to modify a Solex 34 Pict 3 carburetor
to run on larger engines above 1.9L. So here is what I did to make it work.
If you jet the carb right this Mod should have Low Idle Emissions (very
clean below 4500rpms)
Please note, English is not my first language so bear with me! My engine
is a 1904cc with a stock cam and 042 heads. That's 40mm intake and 35.5mm
exh, heads are ported and the intake manifold end casts are match ported.
Rockers are stock. Compression is 8.7:1. Distributor is a vacuum advance
only and its set at 8deg at idle and max vacuum advance is 42deg (Note: the
Ford V8 flat head was not the only car with a vacuum advance only
distributor!!!) I don't want to hear it!... ALSO DO NOT USE A 009
Carb is a Solex 34 Pict 3 Bocar
The restrictive 26 mm to 28mm Venturi (Depending on your carb) is removed
and none are used! The new diameter is 34mm. Now you're really going to
move some air!
These jets are a good for a 1904cc at Sea Level
Also these jets are a lot bigger because there is a lower vacuum at the
throttle area! Don't worry your not going to run rich if you're running a
1904cc to 1914cc engine! If you plan to run a bigger engine like 2180cc
you're going to need bigger jets. I would not run anything below 1904cc
without a venturi do to the lack of vacuum and above 2180cc with this carb
because a 34mm diameter throttle plate is just too small. To get the jets
to the sizes that you need, you need to drill them. Use a digital caliper
to find the right size drill bit. Does not have to be a real drill bit, any
hard wire will work! If you go too far just solder them shut and redrill
them. There are plenty of youtube videos that show you where all the jets
are, or you can look at my part2 supplemental video and also look at No
Venturi 2nd Option.
Heres a tool to resize your jets. This tool will make it very easy.
This is a cheaper drill set
You don't really need this one, but if your a perfectionist here's a link
If you jet the carb right you should end up with a normal carb with no
Idle jet is 62mm..... 65mm runs rich, 67mm runs ok but lost power below
Main jet is 165mm.... 150mm runs ok but runs lean and hot
Air jet is 60mm......... 70mm and higher increases the hesitation problem
but an engine with more ccs may be able to run with a larger air jet.
Aux jet is 42mm........ right next to the idle jet at 11 o'clock. This is
for high rpms only, close to 5k. So if you plan to rev the shit out of your
engine you might want to change this to 42mm or bigger, but will work fine
with the stock jet. My advise is leave it stock. Fine tune your Idle jet,
main jet, and air jet. With these jets I'm currently getting a personal
worst of 22mpg W/O (wide open). Personal best of 30.5mpg at 60mph driving
like an old person and 27.5mpg at 70mph! With my freeway flyer tranny. Not
bad for a big engine with a carburetor!!!! My top speed is.... ???mph. I
don't know, I chickened out at 112mph!... It wanted more!.... lol
Explanation of Why it Works:
The hose is to keep your fuel bowl as close to atmospheric pressure as
possible. Other wise the fuel will not flow in to the throttle air stream
because of the negative air pressure in the fuel bowl that's created by the
breather tube that ends at the center of the air stream (Above the choke),
which is a negative air stream area. Because the fuel in the bowl is at a
negative pressure, the fuel is actually pulling away from your jets giving
you a stumble, bog and a surging feeling when driving with out a venturi in
your carb. The venturi normally creates a larger negative air pressure at
the throttle plate that over powers the vacuum that's in the fuel bowl,
which causes fuel to get sucked into the air stream. It basically works
like an airplane wing but round. So by decreasing the vacuum in the bowl
it makes it easier for the fuel to get sucked in by your jets and into the
throttle air stream area. I hope this helps!!!....What?.... LMAO
If you run a thinner hose form the vent tube all the way through and exit
the air cleaner you should eliminate any remaining stumbles. I know it
works better because I already tried it and determined that this approach
Please Note: I'm not a mechanic or ever claim to be one. I have however
been modifing anything mechanical all my life! Use this information at your
own risk!!!...lol Please don't use a carb with an existing stumble or that
has tuning problems! But if you do, make sure you do a proper rebuild on
Difference between stock VW head and mine
We are using Ray Vallero's daughter Lynda's heads off her racebus from
1983. Because of time constraints in getting this motor done, as that will
eliminate some machining (still going to remove 20 cc's off the head and
reseat the spring sockets).
VW 1600 DUAL PORT ENGINE.SPECIAL
VW STROKER ENGINE .ALMOST READY TO FIRE THIS BABY UP... 78MM WITH 94MM
BARRELS AND 92MM PISTONS ...( turbo
THICK WALL) . I HAVE THE COMPRESSION DOWN TO 9:1 TO MAKE IT A DRIVER. ITS
DESIGNED TO HAVE 40 PSI AT IDLE WITH A HOT ENGINE WITH THE NEW DESIGNED 5/8
ROLLER BEARING RELIEF VALVE. THIS ENGINE ALSO HAS THRU BOLTED CENTER MAIN
SUPPORTS., AND A EXTRA LARGE DOG EAR THRUST WASHER FOR HEAVY CLUTCH USE..
VW 1600 motor rebuild - part 4
The final part of this series covering the rebuild of a dual relief twin
port 1600 Volkswagen motor. In this video fitting the fan housing, tinware
and Exhaust as well as a test run.
1966 VW Beetle - Body Removal - One Person - Remove Body Chassis Bug - (2x Speed)
FOR SALE (July 2, 2013): SOLD
Here's a short video showing the removal of my VW Beetle body from it's
chassis. This is the first time I've attempted this solo. In the past,
I've done it with the help of friends with each of us on a corner of the
car. All things considered, it went pretty well. =) Hopefully someone
will learn from my mistakes. The sawhorses are very similar to the ones
you'll see in the BugMe videos.
Check out my blog:
Paint Color: 2006 Toyota Scion TC color. "Hypnotic Teal Mica"
Paint Code: 8U3
Paint Brand: Dupont