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VW DUAL PORT CROSS FIRE INTAKE SYSTEM

Replaces dual carbs.. and messy linkage.Cuts maintenance costs in half..tons of room for plug removal and replacement. fits in a bus or bug with clearance for the deck lid.sounds better than duals.. and has crisp throttle response at any rpm .. no flat spots even with a oo9 dist, comes to order with your carb base pattern. works well at 40 degrees temps and above . do people actually drive their bugs and busses at night? easy ......................................


 


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VW STROKER BUS ENGINE stroker 78mm x 92mm
WITH 5 QTS OF 30 WT ZINK- ENRICHED BRAD PENN OIL.. AND A ENGLE 110 CAM WITH STRAIGHT CUT GEARS AND SOME 110 OCTANE WITH 4 GRAMS OF LEAD PER GALLON. ITS LITE EM UP TIME... THE NEW BRAZIL FUEL PUMP IS A PIECE OF JUNK. ITS WORTHLESS 3-1/2 POUND MADE IN THE USA ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP IS THE RIGHT WAY TO START UP A NEW ENGINE. GUARANTEED FUEL DELIVERY WITH THE FLOAT BOWL FULL.TEMPORARY CLEAR FUEL LINES TO WATCH FUEL FLOW HELPS .. I LIKE USING RACING FUEL TO START NEW ENGINES BECAUSE OF ALL THE LEAD IN THE GAS.. IT LUBRICATES AND KEEPS THE TEMP COOL ABOUT A 100 DEGREES COOLER. ONE SLIGHT SETBACK THE CARB FUELNEEDLE SEAT WAS LOOSE AND WOULD NOT ALLOW THE BOWL TO FILL UP.. A QUICK FIX WITH THE WRENCH AND PROBLEM SOLVED.. I SET THE TIMING AT ZERO STATIC TO START.IM USING AN EARLY 356 PORSCHE DISTRIBUTOR.FOR A NORMAL ENGINE. MECHANICAL WEIGHTS. WORK WELL WITH A ENGLE 110 CAM..THIS ENGINE HAS THRU- BOLTED CENTER MAINSHAFT, AND AN ADRIAN 5/8 BALL BEARING PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. AS YOU SEE THE IDLING PRESSURE IS ABOUT 60 PSI. WITH A COLD ENGINE.START UP . IT WILL STAY AT 40 PSI WITH A HOT ENGINE.. NOTICE IN THE VIDEO YOU CAN T HEAR THE TAPPETS.. I NICE FEATURE WITH THE ADRIAN 5/8 BALL BEARING SET UP.. THE TAPPETS ARE BEING FED A TON OF OIL AS IS THE CRANKSHAFT . BUILT TO LAST ANY .STOP AND GO TRAFFIC HAS NO EFFECT ON YOUR ENGINE WITH THIS SET UP. THIS ENGINE IS ALSO RUNNING A STRAIGHT CUT GEAR SET.SINCE ITS A LOW RPM ENGINE I SET THE WASHERS IN THE MIDDLE CAM..I DONT LIKE TO IDLE A NEW ENGINE SLOW ITS BETTER TO HAVE THE RPMS UP A TAD SO THE CRANK CAN SPLASH THE CYLINDER WALLS..WITH OIL .BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE I REMOVED THE PLUGS AND CRANKED IT UNTIL I HAD 60 POUNDS OIL PRESSURE.. THE PISTONS AND BARRELS WERE WASHED WITH SOAPY WATER ON ASSEMBLY. THE PINS GOT LUBED . I RAN THE ENGINE FOR ABOUT 4 TO 5 MINUTES.. WITH A FEW START UPS .. MAN IT SURE LIKES A LOT OF CHOKE TO START... ITS A LONG WAY TO THE SPARK PLUGS... I ALSO USE GEAR REDUCTION STARTERS WORTH EVERY PENNY THE ENGINE MAKES A LOT OF RESISTANCE FOR THE INN ITAL START UP... THEN GETS BETTER AS THINGS BREAK IN.. THE OIL FILTER I USE ALLOWS ME TO REMOVE THE FILTER AND CLEAN IT FOR RE USE.. THIS WAY I CAN SEE ALL THE SMEGMA ITS CATCHING . I THINK IT WAS OVER A 140 DOLLARS BUT HAS LOTS OF NICE FEATURES..LIKE ITS ALL ALLOY AND ACTS AS A COOLER ALSO AND YOU NEVER HAVE TO BUY A FILTER FOR IT. WITH THE CB 1 QUART OIL PAN IT NOW HOLDS 5 QUARTS OF OIL TOTAL ... GREAT FOR A BUS STROKER ENGINE WORKHORSE.GRUNT MACHINE.WITH THE 388 GEAR SET IT WILL BE WORKING ON THE BOTTOM END. I WILL TEST THIS ENGINE AGAINST THE CROSS FIRE INTAKE ON THE Dyno SOON AS ITS BROKE IN A LITTLE..I HAVE MORE INFO ON THE SAMBA ON HOW THE ENGINE CASES WERE PREPARED. THIS ENGINE ALSO HAS A SPECIAL DOG EAR THRUST FACE HARDENED WASHER MACHINED INTO THE CASE FOR HEAVY CLUTCH WORK. ENGINE CASE PREPARATION IS EVERYTHING .EVEN THE CYLINDER BARRELS ARE TRIPLE CUT ON THE CASE WITH VERY TIGHT CLEARANCES.--ABOUT 2 THOUSANDTHS.PRECISION FIT. THIS ENGINE WORKS OUT TO BE 9:1 COMPRESSION RATIO. PLENTY FOR TODAYS CRAP REGULAR GAS.I ALWAYS USE A LITTLE LEADED RACING OIL IN ALL MY AIRCOOLED ENGINES. MAKES A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE . BRAND NEW ENGINES GET 100 RACING FUEL FOR THE FIRST GALLON OR TWO. THEN WEENED BACK TO 10% THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE. NORMAL DRIVING YOU CAN USE AS LITTLE AS A COFFEE CUP FULL TO GET BY.PER 10 GALLONS.. AFTER A COUPLE OF HOURS OF RUNNING OUT COMES THE OIL CAUSE ITS LOADED WITH CRAP . ALSO A FULL OIL INSPECTION OF WHATS IN THE OIL FILTER. WITH THE STATE OF THE ART MICRON OIL FILTER ON A FULL FLOW SYSTEM YOU ARE LIGHT YEARS AHEAD OF THE GAME.. THIS ENGINE IS NOW A SINGLE RELIEF OIL PRESSURE SYSTEM LIKE THE 356 PORSCHE ENGINE ONLY WITH 100 PERCENT FILTERING OF THE OIL. TOMORROW I START RECORD KEEPING ON ALL THE VALVE CLEARANCES FOR POSSIBLE CAM SHAFT PROBLEMS OR VALVE STRETCH. LEO





Tuning a vw solex 34 pict 3 carb on 1904cc Option 1
I couldn't find any good info on how to modify a Solex 34 Pict 3 carburetor to run on larger engines above 1.9L. So here is what I did to make it work. If you jet the carb right this Mod should have Low Idle Emissions (very clean below 4500rpms) Please note, English is not my first language so bear with me! My engine is a 1904cc with a stock cam and 042 heads. That's 40mm intake and 35.5mm exh, heads are ported and the intake manifold end casts are match ported. Rockers are stock. Compression is 8.7:1. Distributor is a vacuum advance only and its set at 8deg at idle and max vacuum advance is 42deg (Note: the Ford V8 flat head was not the only car with a vacuum advance only distributor!!!) I don't want to hear it!... ALSO DO NOT USE A 009 DISTRIBUTOR!!!!!! Carb is a Solex 34 Pict 3 Bocar The restrictive 26 mm to 28mm Venturi (Depending on your carb) is removed and none are used! The new diameter is 34mm. Now you're really going to move some air! These jets are a good for a 1904cc at Sea Level Also these jets are a lot bigger because there is a lower vacuum at the throttle area! Don't worry your not going to run rich if you're running a 1904cc to 1914cc engine! If you plan to run a bigger engine like 2180cc you're going to need bigger jets. I would not run anything below 1904cc without a venturi do to the lack of vacuum and above 2180cc with this carb because a 34mm diameter throttle plate is just too small. To get the jets to the sizes that you need, you need to drill them. Use a digital caliper to find the right size drill bit. Does not have to be a real drill bit, any hard wire will work! If you go too far just solder them shut and redrill them. There are plenty of youtube videos that show you where all the jets are, or you can look at my part2 supplemental video and also look at No Venturi 2nd Option. Heres a tool to resize your jets. This tool will make it very easy. http://classicandspeedparts.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&categor y_id=35&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=35&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 This is a cheaper drill set http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BBL50.html You don't really need this one, but if your a perfectionist here's a link http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=13666 If you jet the carb right you should end up with a normal carb with no hesitations. Idle jet is 62mm..... 65mm runs rich, 67mm runs ok but lost power below 3000rpm. Main jet is 165mm.... 150mm runs ok but runs lean and hot Air jet is 60mm......... 70mm and higher increases the hesitation problem but an engine with more ccs may be able to run with a larger air jet. Aux jet is 42mm........ right next to the idle jet at 11 o'clock. This is for high rpms only, close to 5k. So if you plan to rev the shit out of your engine you might want to change this to 42mm or bigger, but will work fine with the stock jet. My advise is leave it stock. Fine tune your Idle jet, main jet, and air jet. With these jets I'm currently getting a personal worst of 22mpg W/O (wide open). Personal best of 30.5mpg at 60mph driving like an old person and 27.5mpg at 70mph! With my freeway flyer tranny. Not bad for a big engine with a carburetor!!!! My top speed is.... ???mph. I don't know, I chickened out at 112mph!... It wanted more!.... lol Explanation of Why it Works: The hose is to keep your fuel bowl as close to atmospheric pressure as possible. Other wise the fuel will not flow in to the throttle air stream because of the negative air pressure in the fuel bowl that's created by the breather tube that ends at the center of the air stream (Above the choke), which is a negative air stream area. Because the fuel in the bowl is at a negative pressure, the fuel is actually pulling away from your jets giving you a stumble, bog and a surging feeling when driving with out a venturi in your carb. The venturi normally creates a larger negative air pressure at the throttle plate that over powers the vacuum that's in the fuel bowl, which causes fuel to get sucked into the air stream. It basically works like an airplane wing but round. So by decreasing the vacuum in the bowl it makes it easier for the fuel to get sucked in by your jets and into the throttle air stream area. I hope this helps!!!....What?.... LMAO If you run a thinner hose form the vent tube all the way through and exit the air cleaner you should eliminate any remaining stumbles. I know it works better because I already tried it and determined that this approach works best. Please Note: I'm not a mechanic or ever claim to be one. I have however been modifing anything mechanical all my life! Use this information at your own risk!!!...lol Please don't use a carb with an existing stumble or that has tuning problems! But if you do, make sure you do a proper rebuild on it!





HOW TO ADJUST VW CARBS





Just Built 1776cc VW Beetle Bug Motor - POWERFUL!!!! LOUD!
1776cc newly rebuilt by myself. Weber 44mm Carb stock 69mm Crankshaft stock connecting rods 90.5mm Mahle pistons Engle 120 Camshaft Hi Performance lifters with oil gallery (for cam lobes) 042 high performance head with port&polish and 3 angle valve job. Euro tuck Exhaust with J-tubes





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