FG ENGINE FAIL
This engine had a timing chain guide fail at two years of age which was repaired by Nuford in Wangara, there history report states that the cam timing was out by two teeth and they simply replaced a guide and put the timing back. In this clip i show that the valves would have hit the pistons and caused serious damage to the valves ultimately leading to the current engine failure two years later.
BEST Ford Barra turbo sound compilation
The Ford Barra turbo 6 ( 240T) first appeared in the Australian Falcon XR6 turbo back in 2002. Now 15 years on, the production of this iconic 4L six cylinder engine is coming to an end. In standard trim these very torquey engines generate anywhere from 320hp to 495hp and respond extremely well to basic modifications. Lets check out a few of these in action. http://www.fullBoost.com.au Get your track gear! http://shop.fullBoost.com.au Follow us on social media @ Google+ https://plus.google.com/+fullBoost Facebook http://www.facebook.com/fullBoostcomau YouTube http://www.youtube.com/user/fullBoostcomau Twitter https://twitter.com/fullBoostcomau Instagram http://instagram.com/fullBoostcomau COPYRIGHT WARNING: The above video is copyrighted © to FullBoost You do not have permission to download it and re-upload it anywhere in any form. You can click the share button on YouTube for that, or copy/paste the URL to social media.
Atomic Performance Products - XR6T on-car Valve Spring Tool
On-car Valve Spring Removal Tool to suit Ford 6 Cylinder DOHC Our Patented (Patent # 2006100221) tool is a simple device to facilitate quick and easy removal of valvetrain components in Ford 4.0L VCT twin cam Barra engines. The unique features of the tool are as follows: • The cylinder head does not need to be removed to gain access to the valve springs • Once the tool is fitted, all 4 valve springs per cylinder can be changed concurrently • No special skills are required to use the tool • The possibility of collets falling into the engine is greatly reduced The tool saves many hours of labour when changing one or many valve springs, valve stem seals or retainers - a mechanic can change all 24 springs in about 3 hours. Changing valve springs is very common due to the varying tensions of standard springs and their rapid deterioration in service, which in turn caused erratic idling and drivability issues. They are also regularly changed in Ford turbo vehicles as higher Boost can bring about premature valve float. To use the tool, simply remove the camshafts, fit the tool to number #1 cylinder and the 4 springs can be changed in about 10 minutes. Refit the tool to the next cylinder in sequence and continue until all are changed, refit the cams and the job is done! For more info, visit: http://www.atomicperformanceproducts.com/tools_&_tricky_bits.html
My Barra converted AU falcon
My project and daily driver. This video is more of a look at what I did and it might have some useful info more then a "how to" The editing is all over the place. here's a WIP of a write up on a doc I did on the barra swap The barra 190 swap The engine im swapping is a intech from an AUII manual Things that you need from the AUII engine. Alternator Coil pack and leads both engine mounts (the whole mount inc the metal bracket) top half of the intake plenum with the throttle body and idle control valve the whole wiring loom from the engine and transmission fly wheel Knock sensor Oil presser sensor Both metal heater pipes that run ether side of the engine the plenum valve vacuum hose that sits on the front cooling hoses Things you need to get new is the pilot bearing if your transmission is a manual (the intech bearing will fit the barra if using a t5 from a AU) if your car is a manual and has a clutch cable you need to drill a hole in the barra engine where the clutch cable will go thru as the barra dose not have one. you won't need to do that if you're converting to a hydraulic clutch as well I used the power steering pump from the barra but you will need the high presser line from a B series falcon as the pump connector is not the same from the AU, the line needs to be bent at the rack and it will fit under the low presser line.( its easer to use the barra pump) I used a bolt and put it in the sensor port at the top of the line and just used the one in the rack. Remove the intech from the car, note if the car is manual unbolt the trans until the 2 19mm bolt on the sides are left then you need to lift the engine and gearbox up until the gearbox hits the trans tunnel. then put the gearbox on a jack and undo the 2 nuts and you should be able to remove the engine without removing the gearbox from the car(its what I did) With both engines side by side start to remove all of the above and transplant it to the barra The crank angel sensor plug will fit the au loom The Cam angel sensor is on the back of the engine and you will need the plug from the barra loom wired to the au cas plug The barra CAS is a 2 pin for both intake and Exhaust and the AU is a 3 wire, green, black and 1 uninsulated wire(shield?) I could not get the barra CAS to work with the AU ecu, I think i got the wiring wrong but the engine works without it The knock sensor is easy to swap as the barra has a bolt hole where it sits on the AU. The oil presser sender is also easy, just remove the barra sender (the one with the yellow plug) and slot the au one in. the coil pack is easy as it sits on the engine mount, you wont need the coil condenser as the barra has one bolted under the intake plenum the spark plug leads might need to be trimmed to fit down the spark plug hole If you have a stock Exhaust manifold the barra manifold will bolt to the pipe where the AU one sat but if you have extractors you will need to get them traded as the AU manifold patten wont fit the barra The bonnet should clear the engine as I have the low rise one from a AUI and it clears it fine without cutting so you should be good with the AUII high rise one. The A/C pump from the barra will not fit the lines on the AU however the a/c pump from the au will fit the barra mounts but needs to be moved forward 6mm so the belt will line up. You can use angel steel to make a bracket as it won't move as much as just a flat piece I used 30mmx30mmx1mm that was 1000mm long that I cut to size, it was about $14.50 you will need M8 1.25 bolts to mount the steel to the ac bracket and using the bolts from the pump and with m8 1.25 nuts you can mount the ac pump to the steel bracket you made. you also need to grind the keyway/stop at the bottom of the bracket and for the lower bit of bracket steel you need to cut a slot for a bolt that protrudes out. you also need to grind one of the side of the top left nut flat so it clears the barra ac bracket. The metal heater hoses that run around the engine will fit the barra you just need to swap some seals as the oring for the thermostat housing is built in. The coolant hoses will fit straight on but for the upper hose you need to cut some off the end otherwise it bends as the barra coolant hose sits higher up and a bit to the right then the intech. Thats all I can think of right now As for intalling the engine it will fit to the engine bay just fine and the transmission will bolt on to the barra fine