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Cutting White Wire on Saturn Ion to Fix Starting Issue

UPDATE 3/21/2014: My car is still working fine. I still have not had a problem with it starting since I posted this video 5 years ago. Still on the same battery. Thanks for all the comments! This is me showing how I cut the passlock wire on my car. My car would not start on damp, cold mornings, often taking 30 - 40 minutes to get it to start. After reading several forums I found users who were doing this to "fix" the problem. I thought I would tape this for anyone who was thinking of doing the same but doesn't know anything about cars. Like me. :) Note: I owe thanks to meron for the post at this link http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1137a7/83 it is where I first heard about this solution. Update 10.6.2012: I added a switch, I believe it was this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062533 I installed it with it in the off position, started the car, switched it to On while the car was running and the service engine light went away. Car started fine after that. I just shut it off again as it was cold one morning this week and I had trouble getting the car started. Once I got it running, turned it off and haven't had trouble starting it since. YMMV


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Please Deactivate Adblock, because it removes on screen instructions to this part 1. A more important part 2 was added ( How to fix it permanently) just click on the following link http://youtu.be/gSXk5LQDflo The problem was on a 2005 saturn ion with automatic transmission. The key refuse to return to OFF position and to come out of ignition slot . Ignition only accept ACC ON START. ( this switch will also causes the doors to lock inadvertenly if you climb out of the car and leave it running on its own). On this video, watch How to MANUALLY OVERIDE IGNITION SWITCH SOLENOID and troubleshooting, in my case , it lead to the automatic transmission SHIFTER PARK MICROSWITCH, it failed frequently. As I got closer to the microswitch, loosing daylight , my cam focus was acting out the shifter is totally black making it hard to shoot I had to speed up and get it done. WATCH CLOSELY HOW I SLIGHTLY BEND THE MICROSWITCH LEVER TO GIVE IT MORE STRENGHT, i used a needle nose plier . The microswitch is held in place by a removable plastic clip ( it's got a green line painted onto it as you can see on the still image just prior to click on the play icon ) I removed with a small flat tip screwdriver pushing from the Inside out , no need to unclip top shifter panel. So after all this, I went for a test ride, the problem disappeared, yes! it works, so far so good but a permanent fix is required , it is best to replace it. So, watch part 2 you will see better how to fix it. http://youtu.be/gSXk5LQDflo ( new update 23dec 2014, I just received a GM RECALL for this exact problem)

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GM Passkey Passlock VATS Bypass
PLEASE CLICK THE "SHOW MORE" BELOW AND SPEND A MINUTE READING THRU THIS - IT MAY HELP YOU MORE THAN THE VIDEO. THANKS! This video shows how to bypass the anti-theft circuit on a 2007 Chevy Silverado (Classic) 2500HD Diesel. This probably should work for any full size 2003-2007 (classic) GM truck or 2003-2006 SUV. My guess is that even the smaller trucks and SUV's with this type of steering column will also be the same. For information I have found on the different types of GM systems and relearn procedures please download this pdf: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_JbzhLZuS5XOVhqLTREOUlFTDA/edit?usp=shari ng You will need to remove the dash trim (snaps out - careful that you pull enough just to get it snapped away from the cluster and not crack or break the dash trim), knee panel (7mm screws at the bottom of the panel and snap/guides at the top) below the steering wheel and the metal wiring cover (10mm nuts) under the steering shaft. Find the yellow and black small gauge wires coming from the top of the key cylinder that are bundled in with 7 larger gauge wires and three other smaller gauge wires at the bottom side of the steering column - these are in there own bundle. There is another bundle for the clock spring that runs with this bundle - DO NOT GET INTO THAT HARNESS as it contains all your steering wheel controls (if applicable) and your air bag. Cut the yellow wire and strip a section of the black wire to get a meter on. Strip both ends of the yellow wire. Put the black lead on the black wire and the red lead on the yellow wire going up to the key cylinder. Insert your key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position (do not start the vehicle - will only run for a second or so even if you do). Set your meter to ohms and get that reading. Go to radio shack and by resistor(s) that will match the resistance you read on the meter. Install the resistor(s) across the black and yellow wire going back into the vehicles I/BCM or ignition/body control module. Using a solder gun for this is best. Heat shrink or tape and secure the resistor(s) and yellow wire going back up to the key cylinder. You should be able to start your vehicle now using your remote start or any $3 cut key from Home Depot or other hardware store. This bypass could also solve a GM vehicle mysteriously not starting or dying on occasion. I have a 2002 Suburban that would start and run for just a second and then cut off and it turned out the anti-theft circuit was failing and causing the problem. Once I installed this type of bypass, never had the issue again. Feel free to post comments or suggestions and if you have any questions I will do my best to answer them. UPDATE: Since I posted this video, I have had several questions from people swapping steering columns; engines; PCM's; BCM's etc. and felt like I should add some more information here since I know I am not the fastest in responding to questions here and most of you out there want to get your vehicle going faster than my response in most cases! Let me try to briefly explain how the VATS system works: When you insert the key into the ignition and turn it to on/start it sends a voltage/resistance signal to a BCM (Body Control Module) and the BCM tells the PCM (Power Control Module or often also referred to as the ECU ECM PCU Computer) to start the engine. If the BCM gets the incorrect signal from the ignition, it sends a message to the PCM to shut off the injectors. In some cases it will also shut off the fuel pump. So in most cases, that circuit between the ignition and BCM is breaking down at the ignition hall sensor and causing the BCM to send a message to shut the vehicle down. In a lot of cases you may only have to do a relearn procedure. You can download this in the link in the paragraph above. So if you are doing any swapping (ie PCM's; BCM's; steering columns or other parts in the anti theft system) everything will have to match up. As an example - if you swap in a 6.6L Duramax for that gas guzzling 8.1L, you would use the PCM from the 6.6L but probably want to keep the BCM and ignition you have. The old BCM and ignition wont match what is in the 6.6L's PCM so you would need to do a relearn or have the ignition and BCM from the 6.6L doner vehicle. Three key components have to be on the same page: Ignition "Hall Sensor", BCM and the PCM. The relearn procedure should put all of these on the same page if you have no failing components. And here is my disclaimer: I hold no liability or responsibility in the information provided here or in the video. I am posting this information as guidance for people that are having issues installing remote starting systems or GM vehicles not starting or dying for no reason. If you use this information to bypass your vehicles anti-theft system it will do exactly as it says - bypasses built in anti-theft protection. Do this at your own risk and discretion.

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