Just a video of my new Dual Side Exits. Ive had my GST almost 8 years now and ive been wanting to do this for a while. I thought it up then put in on paper and measured it exactly how and what i wanted it to look like then a reputable shop 'DTM' brought my dream to reality. let me know what yall think.
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion
strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they
can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure
in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by.
Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why
they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You
don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil
viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from
the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by
connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can
be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can
easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that
pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase
pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings
from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover
gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to
escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One
of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is
having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then
there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also,
on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works
against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV
system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple
breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the
breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the
throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The
PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the
intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake
than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at
idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of
the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is
always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger
than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when
you're under Boost... that's all the
blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11
PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of
Boost, this is a system which is
frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as
well look at your Boost controller
as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is
bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of
creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced
techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs
do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high
crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption
that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum.
Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals
without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but
that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and
rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad
shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and
leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no
vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates
the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a
catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation.
I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air
that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever
building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require
gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal
to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings.
One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract
gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.
500+hp dsm on the streets in car
On the way back from a race. Driving the car on hoosier tires, kinda wobly.
Turned the Boost down to 26psi from
I've got an AEM EMS in this car.
That day it went 10.6@130mph on pump gas.
Few weeks later it went 9.6@148mph on "race gas"
1G DSM 4G64 2.6L Long Rod Stroker Race Engine (Rarest 6-bolt ever built for a DSM)
2.6L Long Rod Stroker Racing Engine (GoPro Hero2 HD POV Camera using
2.6L 4g64/63 hybrid long rod stroker (6bolt)
4g64 block bored 87.5,line honed, hot tanked, partially filled,no oil
squirters (6mm taller deck height)
all threads were clean tapped and oiled
custom girdle that covers entire base of block
extended oil pick up ( for the girdle)
balance shafts removed with mitsu parts
new mitsu oil pump with straight cut gears
oil pan made to fit around t-case with AN fiting for oil return
apr main studs
6 bolt 106mm stroke crank, un cut, micro polished
new acl race bearings std.
156mm premium steel billet connecting rods
custom 87.5mm cp- carrillo stroker pistons
wiseco 8750xx series nitrate and phosphous coated rings
custom cometic multi layer steel head gasket .066 thickness
apr headstuds (machined fit)
1mm oversized si valves
bronze valve guides
dual si valve springs ( machined fit)
titanium retainers and keepers
forced performance cams fpcam3x
fidanza adjustable cam gears anodized red
arp cam gear bolts
cam bores were line honed
head was decked, leak tested, ported to the max, new studs
all new timing components
new timing belt for hybrid
new water pump
fluidampr hamonic balancer
90 oil filter houseing, ported
Bm external oil cooler with AN push lock fittings
new knock sensor
Coil on plug iginition system with jmfab coil plate
jmfab oil catch can
prothan red engine mount
Full blown performance anodized dual fuel pump hanger
2 walbro 255 lph high flow fuel pumps
8 An stainless fuel feed line from tank to filter to rail
6 An stainless fuel return line from rail to regulator to tank
8 An fuel lab high flow fuel filter 100 micron anodized red
6 An fuel lab fuel pressure regulator anodized red
carbon fiber liquid filled fuel pressure guage
fic bm 1650 cc fuel injectors
rewired fuel pump hanger
Brand new holset hx40pro with 7 blades
bullseye power hx40 t3 .70ar 3in vband Exhaust housing
Dn Performance tubular t3 manifold with tial 41mm flange
tial 41mm external wastegate
custom 3in vband downpipe
apexi 3in catback
6in filter on turbo
2.5 custom vband lower ic pipe
huge front mount
3 inch custom upper ic pipe
turbo xs rfl vented bov
3in gm mass airflow sensor
polished 75mm power plus throttle body with no isc
polished jm fabrications race sheet metal intake manifold
magnus heat barrier intake manifold gasket
fidanza aluminum race flywheel
fidanza 4.3 ceramic clutch
new mitsh throw out bearing
new mistu clutch fork and clip
stock trans and t case
4 bolt rear end with lsd
all axles are good
all new hard brake lines
new proportioning valve
stainless steel brake hoses teflon coated all the way around
slotted drilled rotors
2 racing seats
4 point harness's
ecm dsmlink v 3 with 3in gm mas cable
aem wideband with guage
autometer oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, Boost, volts
battery relocated to trunk with cut off switch
slim line fan
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
SUPRAS AND 1G DSM Chillin N Ridin Dirty
Me and my friends out on a sunday night...
1992 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
Woyteks Red 5speed Precision T67 turbo
Al's Mean Green Twin turbo Supra
Chad's Red N/A Auto Supra
Nate dawg White Supra 2 DAMN FAST!