2012 Street Triple R 675 vs. Suzuki Bandit 1200 - Drag Race

Third run of the night at the drags.. This time up against a Bandit! It's a close one.. who'll get the win?? Watch and find out.. gees. 2012 Street Triple R 675 vs. Suzuki Bandit 1200 - Drag Race ------- My bike is a 2012 Triumph Street Triple R 675. I use a GoPro Hero2 with an external mic in my helmet. http://www.youtube.com/user/OldManTriple ==================================================== Intro/Outro Music by Klaypex - used with permission. http://youtube.com/user/Klaypex -~-~~-~~~-~~-~- Please watch: "MT-09 Vlog - A Mode all the way. Random Bollocks" ➨ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LQn17_0l38 -~-~~-~~~-~~-~-

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Motorcycle valve adjusment - part 1 suzuki bandit 1200
Valve adjustment part 2 http://youtu.be/e96srEJTvPY . - Remove some items under the tank (not covered in the manual). Remove the braces on the frame that locate the left and right side fairing pieces. Remove the ignition coils (note the position, routing and connections of the wires). Disconnect breather hose from head cover breather. Remove head cover breather by removing its four bolts. The manual specifically states that this last step is unnecessary, but you'll bugger up the head cover and may not be able to get it out without removing the breather. - Remove the head cover by removing the 14 bolts holding it in place. Don't lose the small metal gaskets under each of these bolts. Don't forget the two near the timing chain bulge and the four (union bolts) near the spark plug towers. Pull it carefully out the right side of the bike. Look carefully under the cover as you guide the plug towers over the timing chain; you can easily lose one of the small gaskets at the bases of these towers. Remove and clean the head cover gasket (strip off silicone sealer) and the mating surfaces on the head and head cover. You can reuse the head cover gasket as long as it's pliable. - Remove the signal generator cover by removing the five bolts holding it in place. If your careful in peeling the gasket off, you'll be able to reuse it (once) with a silicone gasket maker blue coating. - Note the two notches on the right ends of the cam shafts. These will be parallel with the head surface when the crank is rotated to the two positions where you adjust valves. - Rotate the crank forward (clockwise) until these marks on the cams line up with the head surface (horizontal) on the outside of each cam (the marks will be "pointing" away from each other). - In this crank position, you can adjust: = intake valves (0.004 - 0.006") for cylinders #1 and #3 = Exhaust valves (0.007 - 0.009") for cylinders #1 and #2 = Adjustment Procedure: -Check the existing lash on each side of a rocker with one feeler gauge. If te two sides of one rocker differ from each other by 0.001" or more, or if either is out of spec, you must adjust one or both valves on that rocker. To adjust, loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw with the $9 driver you bought until the desired lash is there. Tighten the lock nut gently as you hold the screw with the driver. Repeat on the other side of the rocker if necessary. Recheck the lash on each side as above ("Check the existing lash...). - Check the lash on both sides (simultaneously) of a rocker (with two separate feeler gauges) to make sure the lash is in spec when the rocker isn't rocking sideways on the rocker pivot shaft. If it is out of spec (probably too tight -- bad), start over with the step immediately above on both sides and use a little different lash as your goal (looser if the final lash was too tight, tighter if too loose). - Finally torque the lock nuts with a torque wrench to 7.0 lb-ft. and recheck the lashes on both sides simultaneously as in step immediately above ("Check the lash on both sides..."). - Repeat this procedure using the appropriate feeler gauges for intake (0.005") and Exhaust (0.008") valves for all valves to be adjusted at this crank position. - Remember that it is better to have them slightly loose than even a little too tight. Loose = noise, slight wear; Tight = valve burn, seat burn, head machining, money, headache, etc. - Rotate the crank forward (360 degrees) as above until the marks on the cams are horizontal but "pointing" toward each other - In this crank position you can adjust: = intake valves (0.004 - 0.006") for cylinders #2 and #4 = Exhaust valves (0.007 - 0.009") for cylinders #3 and #4 = Use the same adjustment procedure as above. -To preserve your peace of mind, rotate the engine through these check points and recheck the lash on each rocker (simultaneous method) until your sure doubt will not creep into your dreams - Reassembly is largely the reverse of the removal of all the parts now lying around your work area. A few notable exceptions: = Put a small bead of gasket sealer on the head at the corners of the head cover gasket mating surface and at the cam journal "dips". Do the same on the head cover. = You may also want to put sealer between any of the spark plug tower bottoms and any of the circular gaskets that got scraped off when you removed the head cover. Let these dry well because it is a big challenge not to scrape them off on the timing chain and not to have them shift as you position the head cover. = No sealer is required on the pseudo-gasket under the head cover breather. * Do not be alarmed if your valves are noisier (a little) after the adjust than before. Especially if it's the initial adjustment at break-in, you are more likely loosening the adjustment (due to valve seating and seat wear) than tightening a sloppy lash (due to valve tip, adjuster tip, rocker arm wear). . tool #09917-14920 valve adjuster driver





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