How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has its rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
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Diagnosing and replacing a faulty EGR valve with a vacuum leak.
My vehicle (a 1991 Chevrolet G20 van 350/5.7) was experiencing rough idling
and shuddering at stop lights and very poor fuel economy. My check engine
light had been on for months. Usually I ignore the light it for a while,
assuming it is an O2 sensor, but after pulling the code I discovered there
was a fault in the EGR system. The valve was operating when manually
depressed, but would not function under normal driving. Upon removing the
EGR valve, I discovered a vacuum leak and thought I'd share how I diagnosed
It is worth noting that the "thumb test" I describe in the video could be
done with the valve still bolted to the engine. I did it with the part
removed for easier viewing.
Replacing this part may be harder on other vehicles. I've seen other ERG
valves with Exhaust connections to
worry about. Luckily for me, it was very easy on a Chevy 350... just a
vacuum hose and two nuts to remove it.
@MrJimBonham Ultimately, no... Replacing didn't fix my idling issues. The
shuddering / rough idling at stop lights continued, but I did notice
smoother acceleration after replacing the part. The busted ERG diaphragm
meant it was never engaging when it should have (at higher speeds, not
stops). I've read a bad EGR can take a toll on your fuel economy as well,
so I'm glad I found this leak, even though it wasn't really the one I was
looking for originally.
I eventually found another leak elsewhere, on another vacuum line leading
to the accumulator. All said and done, I'm glad I found this leak (albeit
somewhat accidentally), because with both leaks now fixed, I'm getting
smoother acceleration AND better idling at stops.
I replaced my O2 sensor around the same time (I'm told they die slowly,
sometimes not setting a code, but not operating effectively for a while
before they die and set a code). I can't say for sure it it was the vacuum
leaks, the O2 sensor, or both, but I'm getting better MPGs now.
Either way, if your EGR is behaving as described in this video (popping
back when it should hold vacuum), it needs to be replaced anyway, because
it is affecting your engine in ways you may not even notice.