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Diesel EGR / Intake Cleaning 1 of 2

Using Wynns EGR Aerosol cleaner. Example: Nissan Almera (N16) 2.2 dCi (YD22DDTi) See How To @ http://www.TDOCUK.com - turbo Diesel Owners Club


 


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Diesel EGR / Intake Cleaning 2 of 2
Using Wynns EGR Aerosol cleaner. Example: Nissan Almera (N16) 2.2 dCi (YD22DDTi) See How To @ http://www.TDOCUK.com - turbo Diesel Owners Club





How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby. 4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has its rotating assembly components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether your specific turbo (if it's not td05h) was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above. I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin' keywords: turbocharger dsm eclipse talon awd gsx tsi fwd gst mitsubishi evo evolution lancer 14b 20g td06 td06h td05 install installation upgrade race vs Boost supra wrx sti toyota subaru Dyno laser rs rst 13g hx35 hx40 holset 18g 25g sbr t25 stock replace rebuilding big large nissan 240sx t28





EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation





Diagnosing and replacing a faulty EGR valve with a vacuum leak.
My vehicle (a 1991 Chevrolet G20 van 350/5.7) was experiencing rough idling and shuddering at stop lights and very poor fuel economy. My check engine light had been on for months. Usually I ignore the light it for a while, assuming it is an O2 sensor, but after pulling the code I discovered there was a fault in the EGR system. The valve was operating when manually depressed, but would not function under normal driving. Upon removing the EGR valve, I discovered a vacuum leak and thought I'd share how I diagnosed it. It is worth noting that the "thumb test" I describe in the video could be done with the valve still bolted to the engine. I did it with the part removed for easier viewing. Replacing this part may be harder on other vehicles. I've seen other ERG valves with Exhaust connections to worry about. Luckily for me, it was very easy on a Chevy 350... just a vacuum hose and two nuts to remove it. @MrJimBonham Ultimately, no... Replacing didn't fix my idling issues. The shuddering / rough idling at stop lights continued, but I did notice smoother acceleration after replacing the part. The busted ERG diaphragm meant it was never engaging when it should have (at higher speeds, not stops). I've read a bad EGR can take a toll on your fuel economy as well, so I'm glad I found this leak, even though it wasn't really the one I was looking for originally. I eventually found another leak elsewhere, on another vacuum line leading to the accumulator. All said and done, I'm glad I found this leak (albeit somewhat accidentally), because with both leaks now fixed, I'm getting smoother acceleration AND better idling at stops. I replaced my O2 sensor around the same time (I'm told they die slowly, sometimes not setting a code, but not operating effectively for a while before they die and set a code). I can't say for sure it it was the vacuum leaks, the O2 sensor, or both, but I'm getting better MPGs now. Either way, if your EGR is behaving as described in this video (popping back when it should hold vacuum), it needs to be replaced anyway, because it is affecting your engine in ways you may not even notice.





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