"Well, I believe that's a front wheel drive Saturn doing a pretty good job against that pickup truck in the Dodge lane."
1st to 2nd was sloppy but still managed a 13.259. 12 second Saturn all day if everything goes right :)!
How To Test Your Car Starter
In this video, you will learn how to test your starter real simple before
taking your starter to the auto parts. you will learn all three steps:
Solenoid, Motor and Overide Clutch testing. the goal of this video is for
you to understand the function of the different elements that make up the
starter and to help you diagnose starting problems with a more accurate
approach. video done by Jesus Cabrera of Chabot College MCOM 61.
Watch this video for answers to all your questions (songs, car mods,
setups, etc..) along with bonus footage and updates.
This is a short documentary I made for a class. Using mostly my own found
footage, I give a commentary on "Sleepers" and my own personal experiences
This video was intended to tell a story and be mildly entertaining/funny.
No one in this film thinks they drive the fastest car on the planet. We are
all aware of our limitations.
Try to enjoy it :)
I'm getting messaged like crazy to reveal the mod lists for my cars. This
is a bit difficult to do for the Regal since it almost never had the same
setup on it for more than a few weeks! Anyway I'll try my best!
Z34 - Intake and chip. Stock at the time of the Iroc-Z race.
SHO - SHO SHOp catless Ypipe (That's it!!!) (Stock during most of the Races
in this Video)
vs tuned turbo Cobalt at the Track.
Regal: Headers, mild cam, pulley, tune and intake
Vs stock G8. Regal: same mods as above
11.9 @ 112 in the 1/4 on slicks with some c16 race gas mixed in, m90 blower
Vs full bolt on, gears, tuned 2011 Mustang v6. Regal: TVS swap with
stock TVS pulley. 7psi of Boost.
vs full bolt on, 3.55 gears, tuned 1998 Cobra. Regal: same setup as vs the
Vs 330whp low 12 second Vortech supercharged 2002 Mustang GT. Regal: TVS swap + 2.8''
pulley (14psi) and ethanol.
374whp with same mods as vs the blown GT
As always the Regal had stock heads and never had an Intercooler!
Thanks for all the comments!
First two songs:
"Wake of the Martyrs"
By Secession Studios
Cutting White Wire on Saturn Ion to Fix Starting Issue
This is me showing how I cut the passlock wire on my car. My car would not
start on damp, cold mornings, often taking 30 - 40 minutes to get it to
start. After reading several forums I found users who were doing this to
"fix" the problem. I thought I would tape this for anyone who was thinking
of doing the same but doesn't know anything about cars. Like me. :)
Note: I owe thanks to meron for the post at this link
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1137a7/83 it is where I
first heard about this solution.
Update 10.6.2012: I added a switch, I believe it was this one
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062533 I installed
it with it in the off position, started the car, switched it to On while
the car was running and the service engine light went away. Car started
fine after that. I just shut it off again as it was cold one morning this
week and I had trouble getting the car started. Once I got it running,
turned it off and haven't had trouble starting it since. YMMV
How to test for a bad head-gasket
For more info. on my eBook go to www.scannerdanner.com
This is a review of a test procedure I have in my ebook. Section 1
"Universal Testing Methods" page 13. There are other ways to do this test.
I am just showing the one I use the most when looking for a bad head
Servicing/rebuild your starter motor
When most starters quit, they only need a clean-up of water or oil
ingression and carbon dust deposits, their brushes and commutators are
New starters cost hundreds $ and any parts could be hard to find. Servicing
them with a bit of creativity could save you some money. Brushes could be
somehow extended but the commutator segments have to be long enough.
Brushes could be as short as 5.5mm not 55mm, my slip.
Do maintain electrical separation between the baseplate + housing + 2 bare
wired brushes (ground side) and cable terminal + 2 insulated brushes +
armature coil (battery positive terminal side).
Total service time on this starter: 1 hr
Turbo Saturn 95 SL2
1995 saturn sl2 turbo with 16g AEM FIC
10psi 227.24whp 198.09 torque. Only ran up to 6500rpm due to a fuel issue.
When solved will be revving to 7200 as there is much more power to be made.
Astra Turbo - Rocker Cover Gasket Renewal
My first video, it's a bit slow and boring. But was a good test.
On an engine with hydraulically adjusted valve clearance, the rocker cover
gasket may never get changed in routine maintenance.
The gasket on this car hasn't been changed for 120,000km's and was leaking
New gasket = cleaner engine bay :)
Turbo Saturn 5 psi
2001 Saturn SL2. T3, 5 psi, moderately tuned but running rich at 11.5 AFR
Wind sucks. Emission requirements suck more.
Impala - Rear Valve Cover Gasket replacement (3800 Series II)
This is how you change the rear valve cover gasket on a Chevy Impala 3.8L
(3800 Series II). The method used in this video is WITHOUT taking off the
fuel rail and fuel injectors and plenum. This present a problem with a
tricky bolt that's next to the fuel injector. You don't necessarily save
time doing it this way as opposed to removing the Plenum and fuel
rail/injectors but it's less hassle if you're worried about seating the
injectors back into place and everything. It will take you some time to get
one of the 13mm bolts out that's next to the second injector in the back.
Also this method was attempting to get the valve cover off without removing
the alternator and tensioner assembly. There is not enough clearance to
lift the cover off without removing it. So go ahead and remove the
1. Disconnect Neg Terminal from the battery (8mm)
2. Remove the plastic cover by twisting off the oil cap piece
3. Remove the rear "brace bar" (black bar going from left to right) two
13mm on each side
4. Remove the Coolant Recovery tank and set aside (two 10mm nuts)
5. Remove the alternator
6. Remove the bracket holding the alternator to the engine by the fuel
injector (10mm I believe)
7. Remove the tensioner assembly (Three 15mm bolts, one of them is hidden)
8. Remove 6 valve cover bolts (10mm)
Follow in reverse order to re-assemble, use Permatex Medium blue loctite on
the the bolts for the valve cover, you can also change the grommets, but
it's not necessary. (They are only $10 for both front and back valve