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4G63 back from the ashes---First half of engine rebuild

After over a YEAR of promises that I'd get this vid done, I went halfway and got the engine pull and most of the shortblock work edited and documented. Here for your viewing deliciousness is PART 1! (link to torque specs for the engine here: http://bit.ly/17KDEED)


 


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4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video. The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price. Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up. So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that. The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.





lancer evo build 4g63





HOW AN ENGINE IS BUILT
THIS IS HOW AN ENGINE IS ASSEMBLED





The Worlds best car tuning disasters and engine failures II - Caught on tape
Wow its tuning disaster II Time More of the webs greatest tuning and high performance engine failures -- you can push and you can push your tuning, but sooner or later some things gonna blow Top 30 all-time tuning failures - close your eyes and watch through your fingers this is very scary stuff, more breaking engines and bank balances. www.viezu.com ECU remapping and car tuning at its best. Car tuning training, software, tools and equipment. Whatever your tuning needs we are here to help. Insured, guaranteed and custom tuning for over 3000 different vehicles, tuning for power, performance, fuel economy, motorsport and carbon reduction -- Tune with the best and mail us at info@viezu.com. For all car tuning training, ecu remapping and car tuning courses and classes see our technical academy www.remap101.com





6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts
I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy. Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove. I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here. It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block. This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case. As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone. For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news... The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday. Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.





4G63 Dragster - First Track Day
Atco Raceway - 4/18/09 First day at the track with our 4G63 Dragster project. The converter is too tight to build Boost on the line at the moment but we're working on it!





DSM Sleeper Rebuild Begins
Quick video of the beginning of my rebuild. **This car has been sold for a while now and my current project is a 1g AWD DSM.Check out my NEW Videos!!**





6 bolt 4g63 in 2g Eclipse GSX cylinder head removed in under 10 mins
Removing the head of a 4G63 in 10x speed. The project got delayed a few months. After finishing it and cranking it over, Interference in the cylinder was discovered. Shamefully, I admit my mistakes were: 1) Not putting the spark plugs in immediately after installing the head. 2) The bad habit of using my Valve Cover as a parts tray and 3) Putting off the project too long, so I didn't recognize a missing bolt from a custom fabrication. The head needed new valve seats, valves and some welding. Wiseco and the machinist both thought I'd be OK running the piston after smoothing out hot spots, but I ordered a new piston not wanting to risk the deep gouge in it with the high Boost I plan to run. Peace of mind is priceless. The danger in being over confident is sometimes you skip triple checking stuff. I've built that engine at least 5 times and got careless. You can see the port work I did on the head @ http://www.southernutahautos.com under "Tech Tips" and "Beyond Bolt-ons"





2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission failure. This time I installed some new goodies... Tubular Exhaust Header Magnus Intake Manifold Magnus heat barrier gasket Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal -6AN turbo coolant lines ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners new timing belt new accessory belts ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts FIC -8AN fuel rail deleted breather port added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate new Chrysler coils





4g63 Coil On Plug 201
This is a continuation from my earlier coil-on-plug how-to video. I was troubleshooting an ignition problem where I couldn't Boost over 14 PSI without misfiring or backfiring despite having an ignition amplifier, and this is what worked to completely resolve my troubles. There's lots of information about what parts work well on a 4g63 (and their relevance) as well as lots of reports about people having ignition problems once they're installed. I noticed that there's not really any instruction available regarding ideal methods for trimming the longer Chrysler boot down to the size and shape for a 4g63 setup. Some of this could be due to the depth of various COP mounting plates, but this video is intended as an effort to help fill that void regardless of why. If the boots are not trimmed properly, then as combustion chamber pressure increases, the possibility of the spark arcing from the plug into the plug well is possible. This can happen on improperly insulated plugs, or as a result of an old worn boot. The solution if your coil resistance is good... is to run down to NAPA and buy yourself a set of new boots. They come with new springs. They just need to fully-sleeve the spark plug's ceramic insulator, and make good electrical contact internally. If air can get in and out, so can spark. FYI: When inspecting older worn-out boots, wherever spark leaks through leaves a white spot.





Cylinder Head 106 - Casting & Porting Tech
Description. No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there... ...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.





Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why... is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and they're all defeated here. The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same. I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on Jafromobile. Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those specifications without additional hardware or without causing a catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process. It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206 should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist pins. Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its peak performance.





4G63 Mitsubishi Powered Mustang - WTF?!
Never would have thought we would see a 122ci 4G63 Mitsubishi powered Fox Body Mustang when we went to Georgia for the LIGHTS OUT V drag race (DVD Pre Order - http://freelifefilms.com/?p=1082) This unique x275 car, built by CDub Racing out of Louisville, KY caught everyones attention at the race just by the freak noise that it put out compared to the rest of the field. Full article on the car - http://www.dragzine.com/news/jesse-abeles-mitsubishi-4g63-powered-fox-body- Mustang-build/





How to build a 4g63 Coil On Plug Assembly
This is just like all other do it yourself projects. 1) Buy parts that make doing the job easiest for you. 2) Put the stuff together. 3) Install it. No really, I used the JMFabrications Coil Plate, ordered all new UF269 Chrysler coils and wiring from Toyota. This video is intended to compliment thread #290665 at DSMTuners dot com which contains wiring diagrams and part numbers for these specific products. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/166642-cop-coil-plug-igniti on-merged-1-8-a.html The only thing I did different was use 3/16" grommets in the harness holes rather than elongating them to prevent wire chaffing. I went a little overboard with the convoluted tubing, but it looks fantastic. you can get coils from Chrysler models... 1999-2003 300M 2003-2003 300M PRO-AM 2002-2003 300M SPECIAL 1998-2001 CONCORDE 2002-2003 CONCORDE LIMITED 2002-2003 CONCORDE LXI 1998-2003 INTREPID 1999-2001 LHS 2001-2002 PROWLER DODGE... 1998-2001 INTREPID 2000-2000 INTREPID ES 2000-2002 INTREPID R/T 2002-2003 INTREPID SE 2003-2003 INTREPID SXT 1997-2001 PROWLER What isn't covered in that thread is the necessity of a capacitive discharge system. In order for this to be any kind of upgrade a CDI is required. The factory coil pack on these cars is good for 30+ PSI.





4G63 Datsun 1200 - Jett Racing
Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo powered Datsun 1200 Ute by Jett Racing. Racing in the Pro Compact class at the 2012 Sport Compact Brisbane Jamboree. http://www.facebook.com/fullBoostcomau http://www.youtube.com/user/fullBoostcomau http://www.fullBoost.com.au




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