4G63 back from the ashes---First half of engine rebuild
After over a YEAR of promises that I'd get this vid done, I went halfway and got the engine pull and most of the shortblock work edited and documented. Here for your viewing deliciousness is PART 1! (link to torque specs for the engine here: http://bit.ly/17KDEED)
6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front
cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for.
Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the
factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause,
and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without
the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.
6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts
I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock
rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last
part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old
4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that
good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless
they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show
several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the
short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for
head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit
with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do
is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old
worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these
cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts
making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for
a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if
you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals,
pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is
you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will
be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and
that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor
that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the
"Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters,
rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that
yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets,
seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace
for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a
future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock
doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will
probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit
the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some
parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this
video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope
that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be
re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is
because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus.
There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g
cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But
it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of
torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch
failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from
crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to
death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the
drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had
repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it
right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the
drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains
are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I
may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a
website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be
delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things
like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque
specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to
make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon
you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm
a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped
my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys
because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has
grown, and I feel the need to give back.