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4G63 back from the ashes---First half of engine rebuild

After over a YEAR of promises that I'd get this vid done, I went halfway and got the engine pull and most of the shortblock work edited and documented. Here for your viewing deliciousness is PART 1! (link to torque specs for the engine here: http://bit.ly/17KDEED)


 


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6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for. Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause, and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.





4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video. The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price. Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up. So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that. The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.





CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Now this is a story all about how My bearings got flipped-turned upside down And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air. In RVA suburbs born and raised On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool, 'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools When a couple of guys who were up to no good Started running races in my neighborhood I heard one little knock and my rods got scared And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..." I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way, But it didn't want to start and run another day. I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it." Crankwalk yo this is bad Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan. Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like? Hmm this won't be alright But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat? I don't think so, I'll see when I get there I hope they're prepared for this video I share. Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out I aint all depressed cause I seen this before. I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more. I sprang into action like lightning disassembled I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled If anything you could say that this bling is rare, and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear. I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8 And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later" I looked at my internals they were finally there To sit on my workbench and stink up the air. Audio track by RojoDelChocolate. Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.





2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission failure. This time I installed some new goodies... Tubular Exhaust Header Magnus Intake Manifold Magnus heat barrier gasket Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal -6AN turbo coolant lines ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners new timing belt new accessory belts ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts FIC -8AN fuel rail deleted breather port added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate new Chrysler coils





lancer evo build 4g63





6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts
I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy. Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove. I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here. It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block. This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case. As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone. For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news... The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday. Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.





6 bolt 4g63 in 2g Eclipse GSX cylinder head removed in under 10 mins
Removing the head of a 4G63 in 10x speed. The project got delayed a few months. After finishing it and cranking it over, Interference in the cylinder was discovered. Shamefully, I admit my mistakes were: 1) Not putting the spark plugs in immediately after installing the head. 2) The bad habit of using my Valve Cover as a parts tray and 3) Putting off the project too long, so I didn't recognize a missing bolt from a custom fabrication. The head needed new valve seats, valves and some welding. Wiseco and the machinist both thought I'd be OK running the piston after smoothing out hot spots, but I ordered a new piston not wanting to risk the deep gouge in it with the high Boost I plan to run. Peace of mind is priceless. The danger in being over confident is sometimes you skip triple checking stuff. I've built that engine at least 5 times and got careless. You can see the port work I did on the head @ http://www.southernutahautos.com under "Tech Tips" and "Beyond Bolt-ons"





Sound of a 4g63 N/A Engine EUDSM Mitsubishi Eclipse 1g GS
It has a few modifications but it sounds stock. Ignore the Oilpressure Gauge, it is not connected ;)





4G63 Lifter installation without special tool part 2
In this segment I reinstall the rockers over the new lifters. Again, no special tools, or removal of the timing belt, cams, or cam caps. All we are doing here is putting the rockers back in place over fully bled aftermarket (topline) "3g" big hole lifters. These are NOT ebay lifters. I can't speak for them - I have never used them. *** Some side notes and related info*** -This car was purchased used with about 22k on it. They started ticking heavily about the third day after I bought it 2 years ago... and have ticked for about 20k more miles. -I recently switched from a 969400011 rom (05 rom) to a patched version of 96530006. Which must run different knock filters, as I had excessive part throttle knock I previously did not have. -Topline lifters stopped the part throttle knock -While they were pumping up and chattering, I couldn't even drive the car. I got repeated high knock counts to the point I could feel timing being pulled through the floor. -Once they filled up with oil and went silent I have NO knock. Even between gears, from stops, after a aggressive throttle then reapplication of throttle... Basically all the places I had knock before, I don't now. Which is great when it's this simple. Yay for lifters that don't tick.





The Worlds best car tuning disasters and engine failures II - Caught on tape
Wow its tuning disaster II Time More of the webs greatest tuning and high performance engine failures -- you can push and you can push your tuning, but sooner or later some things gonna blow Top 30 all-time tuning failures - close your eyes and watch through your fingers this is very scary stuff, more breaking engines and bank balances. www.viezu.com ECU remapping and car tuning at its best. Car tuning training, software, tools and equipment. Whatever your tuning needs we are here to help. Insured, guaranteed and custom tuning for over 3000 different vehicles, tuning for power, performance, fuel economy, motorsport and carbon reduction -- Tune with the best and mail us at info@viezu.com. For all car tuning training, ecu remapping and car tuning courses and classes see our technical academy www.remap101.com





Blueprint 102 - Measuring 4g63 Crankshaft Endplay
4g63's are famous for hosing crankshaft thrust bearings. This video illustrates the process of how to check the thrust bearing clearance whether the motor's in the car or not. Of course in my case the motor's on a stand for this video. Lucky for me! In cases where the engine is still in the car, the same procedures can be used so long as the indicator is attached to the engine block. The plunger can be set up touching either the inside of the crank pulley or by removing the clutch cover plate and contacting the flywheel. What the thrust bearing does, is prevent the crankshaft from having lateral movement in the main bearings. If a crankshaft develops excessive movement here, clutch engagement and hydraulic problems will begin showing up, followed shortly thereafter by catastrophic failure of main bearings, rod bearings, connecting rod failures, oil pressure problems, or even broken blocks, crankshafts and rods in extreme cases. It's important that every 4g63 turbo engine is within spec on this measurement. When the crankshaft aggressively wears through the thrust bearing developing lateral play, this is called "crankwalk". On some block castings, replacing the bearings will NOT fix the problem. An engine block that is prone to crankwalking can not be fixed. The only option in these cases is to replace the shortblock and rotating assembly with new or used parts that are stronger than the one you've unfortunately encountered. For the 2g guys, the best option for repairing this problem is to remove the 7-bolt turbo shortblock your car came with and replace it with a 6-bolt from a 89-92.5 production date turbo DSM. Non-turbo blocks CAN be used; however, the block will not have oil squirters that aim towards the back of the pistons. That stream of oil aides lubrication to the wrist pins, cylinder bores, and somewhat cools the pistons. All good things on a turbo setup. Aside from that difference, there are no other differences between the non-turbo and turbo blocks. The pistons and thus the compression ratios are different, but that's it. Oil squirters can be machined into the main galleries of a non-turbo block, but it's more trouble than it's worth unless you can't find a turbo block. There are tons of differing theories about what causes crankwalk. Nearly all of them are plausible and logical arguments. I will not get into those debates in this video in order to focus on procedures for testing and replacement. Please feel free to google "crankwalk 4g63" and read the volumes of information available already. The arguments and gathered data are older than the Eclipse itself and in abundant supply on the internets. Magnus, RRE, VFAQ, and many other parts vendors have lengthy write-ups on their own research and development. The bottom line is that the 6-bolt shortblocks are LESS likely to suffer from this. Next time you see someone with a video that looks like it was shot with a potato asking "does this sound like crankwalk", you can send them this video. There's a reason for every noise, rather than focus on the sound, focus on eliminating the real problem. KNOW if it's out of spec.





4G63 Dragster - First Track Day
Atco Raceway - 4/18/09 First day at the track with our 4G63 Dragster project. The converter is too tight to build Boost on the line at the moment but we're working on it!





Cylinder Head 106 - Casting & Porting Tech
Description. No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there... ...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.





DSM Sleeper Rebuild Begins
Quick video of the beginning of my rebuild. **This car has been sold for a while now and my current project is a 1g AWD DSM.Check out my NEW Videos!!**





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