4G63 back from the ashes---First half of engine rebuild
After over a YEAR of promises that I'd get this vid done, I went halfway and got the engine pull and most of the shortblock work edited and documented. Here for your viewing deliciousness is PART 1! (link to torque specs for the engine here: http://bit.ly/17KDEED)
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
The Worlds best car tuning disasters and engine failures II - Caught on tape
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6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts
I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock
rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last
part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old
4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that
good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless
they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show
several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the
short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for
head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit
with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do
is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old
worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these
cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts
making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for
a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if
you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals,
pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is
you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will
be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and
that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor
that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the
"Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters,
rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that
yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets,
seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace
for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a
future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock
doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will
probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit
the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some
parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this
video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope
that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be
re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is
because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus.
There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g
cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But
it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of
torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch
failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from
crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to
death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the
drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had
repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it
right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the
drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains
are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I
may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a
website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be
delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things
like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque
specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to
make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon
you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm
a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped
my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys
because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has
grown, and I feel the need to give back.
4G63 Dragster - First Track Day
Atco Raceway - 4/18/09
First day at the track with our 4G63 Dragster project. The converter is
too tight to build Boost on the line
at the moment but we're working on it!
DSM Sleeper Rebuild Begins
Quick video of the beginning of my rebuild.
**This car has been sold for a while now and my current project is a 1g AWD
DSM.Check out my NEW Videos!!**
6 bolt 4g63 in 2g Eclipse GSX cylinder head removed in under 10 mins
Removing the head of a 4G63 in 10x speed.
The project got delayed a few months. After finishing it and cranking it
over, Interference in the cylinder was discovered. Shamefully, I admit my
mistakes were: 1) Not putting the spark plugs in immediately after
installing the head. 2) The bad habit of using my Valve Cover as a parts
tray and 3) Putting off the project too long, so I didn't recognize a
missing bolt from a custom fabrication.
The head needed new valve seats, valves and some welding. Wiseco and the
machinist both thought I'd be OK running the piston after smoothing out hot
spots, but I ordered a new piston not wanting to risk the deep gouge in it
with the high Boost I plan to run.
Peace of mind is priceless.
The danger in being over confident is sometimes you skip triple checking
stuff. I've built that engine at least 5 times and got careless.
You can see the port work I did on the head @
http://www.southernutahautos.com under "Tech Tips" and "Beyond Bolt-ons"
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils
4g63 Coil On Plug 201
This is a continuation from my earlier coil-on-plug how-to video. I was
troubleshooting an ignition problem where I couldn't Boost over 14 PSI without misfiring or
backfiring despite having an ignition amplifier, and this is what worked to
completely resolve my troubles.
There's lots of information about what parts work well on a 4g63 (and their
relevance) as well as lots of reports about people having ignition problems
once they're installed. I noticed that there's not really any instruction
available regarding ideal methods for trimming the longer Chrysler boot
down to the size and shape for a 4g63 setup. Some of this could be due to
the depth of various COP mounting plates, but this video is intended as an
effort to help fill that void regardless of why.
If the boots are not trimmed properly, then as combustion chamber pressure
increases, the possibility of the spark arcing from the plug into the plug
well is possible. This can happen on improperly insulated plugs, or as a
result of an old worn boot. The solution if your coil resistance is
good... is to run down to NAPA and buy yourself a set of new boots. They
come with new springs. They just need to fully-sleeve the spark plug's
ceramic insulator, and make good electrical contact internally. If air can
get in and out, so can spark.
FYI: When inspecting older worn-out boots, wherever spark leaks through
leaves a white spot.
Cylinder Head 106 - Casting & Porting Tech
No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes
without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but
we're almost there...
...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
4G63 Mitsubishi Powered Mustang - WTF?!
Never would have thought we would see a 122ci 4G63 Mitsubishi powered Fox
Body Mustang when we went
to Georgia for the LIGHTS OUT V drag race (DVD Pre Order -
This unique x275 car, built by CDub Racing out of Louisville, KY caught
everyones attention at the race just by the freak noise that it put out
compared to the rest of the field.
Full article on the car -
How to build a 4g63 Coil On Plug Assembly
This is just like all other do it yourself projects.
1) Buy parts that make doing the job easiest for you. 2) Put the stuff
together. 3) Install it.
No really, I used the JMFabrications Coil Plate, ordered all new UF269
Chrysler coils and wiring from Toyota. This video is intended to
compliment thread #290665 at DSMTuners dot com which contains wiring
diagrams and part numbers for these specific products.
The only thing I did different was use 3/16" grommets in the harness holes
rather than elongating them to prevent wire chaffing. I went a little
overboard with the convoluted tubing, but it looks fantastic.
you can get coils from Chrysler models...
2003-2003 300M PRO-AM
2002-2003 300M SPECIAL
2002-2003 CONCORDE LIMITED
2002-2003 CONCORDE LXI
2000-2000 INTREPID ES
2000-2002 INTREPID R/T
2002-2003 INTREPID SE
2003-2003 INTREPID SXT
What isn't covered in that thread is the necessity of a capacitive
discharge system. In order for this to be any kind of upgrade a CDI is
required. The factory coil pack on these cars is good for 30+ PSI.
4G63 Datsun 1200 - Jett Racing
Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo powered Datsun
1200 Ute by Jett Racing. Racing in the Pro Compact class at the 2012 Sport
Compact Brisbane Jamboree.