Installing an eBay 20g
I'm reviewing an ebay 20g TD05 internally-gated turbocharger. You've seen me open it, assess it,
and port it. Now I'm going to install it and see how it fits on my car.
Its dimensions are close enough to a Mitsubishi turbo that it fits well, but it didn't play nice
with my aftermarket stuff as the video illustrates.
You'll see what I mean...
The wastegate actuator nipple aims straight toward the compressor housing,
and I don't like it. I fixed it with a pair of pliers and an allen wrench
at 5:55 in a way that's far less likely to break it. The flanges and bolt
centers lined up fine and without any issues, though others have claimed to
have had them with this turbo. The
compressor cover is an obvious giveaway regarding identifying this turbo. It does not wear the cast-in designation
TD05H that the Mitsubishi turbos do, but
for $228, what do you expect?
If you chose to go this route, just manage your expectations. Be aware
that it might not bolt up perfectly to your particular car, and be willing
to fix what isn't perfect.
Porting an eBay 20g turbocharger
The price of this turbo will make it a
popular purchase, so I figured I'd air out some tech about ways to improve
it. This thing is not for everybody. I wouldn't feel comfortable bolting
it on my car the way it comes out of the box. I could complain about its
flaws except that so far absolutely none of them have been a deal-breaker
for me. To me it's like an empty canvas. I promise to eat those words if
it happens, and share my poop. Usually I can easily correct these flaws
myself and so can you.
If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could
easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car. Something you could
do with a free running 1g, a hacksaw, and about $500 worth of fuel
upgrades. Yeah, that would be ridiculous, and I'm bolting it onto a
well-modified car... But that being possible speaks volumes for what a DSM
can really do.
This is no big deal to me. I'd rather guinea pig my car for you in HD so
you guys can decide whether or not you'd spend your money on this. Really
it's an experiment because this isn't my daily-driver, and it contributes
to building a better Colt.
Tools I used involve:
Milwaukee model ???? 1/4" straight-shaft electric DIY grinder
Cone and ball-shaped double-cut burs
180 grit high-speed flap wheel
Dremel with a flex-shaft and a tiny 320-grit flap wheel
a zip tie
10mm combination wrench
tiny flat-blade screwdriver (00) for the e-clip on the wastegate
Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off
How to set idle stopper, TPS sensor, and throttle linkage. These are
conditions that need to be set properly prior to adjusting your idle, fuel,
timing or before addressing drivability issues. If these items are
out-of-range prior to changing other variables, changing them later will
throw off everything else. It's important to do these things first.
Boost leak testing is covered in
another video. It's critical to get Boost, vacuum, and Exhaust leaks under control before establishing
your baseline tune. Links to the Boost leak testing video are in this video.
Cutting Excess Guide from ProComp 210 SBC Head, custom Porting Combustion Chambers 4
Part Four of Port modificatins on ProComp 210cc aluminum SBC heads. Guide
over hang from installation and correcting the combustion chambers to
unshroud the spark plug is a big deal on these heads. China castings leave
a lot to be desired, but still with all the work you must do it is still
the bargin of the year and is a force to be reckond with when "bang per
buck" is needed. The base of the spark plug should not be exposed in the
chamber, and any valve guide "Overhang" will obstruck flow and create fuel
"sheer" which seperates vapor to droplets that wont burn. Most Big Name
companies will not take time to detial these issues as production cost
prohibit these mods, so have your local machine shop take apart your heads
and look for these problems before you bolt them on your prize engine.
How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 2 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has it's rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
keywords: turbocharger dsm eclipse talon
awd gsx tsi fwd gst mitsubishi evo evolution lancer 14b 20g td06 td06h td05
install installation upgrade race vs Boost supra wrx sti toyota subaru Dyno laser rs rst 13g hx35 hx40
holset 18g 25g sbr t25 stock replace rebuilding big large nissan 240sx t28
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion
strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they
can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure
in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by.
Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why
they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You
don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil
viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from
the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by
connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can
be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can
easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that
pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase
pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings
from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover
gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to
escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One
of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is
having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then
there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also,
on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works
against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV
system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple
breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the
breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the
throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The
PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the
intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake
than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at
idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of
the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is
always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger
than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when
you're under Boost... that's all the
blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11
PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of
Boost, this is a system which is
frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as
well look at your Boost controller
as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is
bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of
creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced
techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs
do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high
crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption
that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum.
Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals
without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but
that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and
rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad
shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and
leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no
vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates
the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a
catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation.
I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air
that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever
building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require
gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal
to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings.
One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract
gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.
High-speed turbo balancing machine turbo Technics introduced the VSR Mk3
"Core" balancing machine in 1999, following 15 years production of the
previous Mk2 machine. Within months, its clever design and many unique
features became the talking point of the turbocharger industry. Following worldwide
acclaim, and the only VSR (Vibration Sorting Rig) to meet full factory
approval by GARRETT, KKK (3K Borg Warner) and IHI, the machine soon became
regarded as the accepted "Industry standard" for all turbocharger repair businesses and aftermarket
re-manufacturers. For full details of our current range of balancing
machines, please visit http://www.turbotechnics.com
** Please note that this video was made some years ago, and does NOT show
our current specification. ** Thanks for watching.
how to turbo your honda over the weekend
UPDATE: for all those who think this method means the motor wont last, here
is a video from friday april 5th 2013 of the car still running strong, its
been over a year and around 10k miles of hard beating.
UPDATE: ALSO CHECK OUT MY SECOND VIDEO ON HOW TO turbo YOUR HONDA you can see it here
this video shows the steps to turbo your
honda in a couple days with upgraded internals and not removing the engine
or doing any machine work.
also for those saying you need to do some sort of easy break in period i
think you need to read this article , the old fashioned ways are long gone
Friday Night No-Lift-To-Shift
Great "kills". Shelby GT500, Mustang GT, Camaro, Nova, WRX STi, Integra.
Getting used to a new way of driving.
I have successfully enabled the clutch cut feature in DSMlink, and just in
time for another Friday night to see what it will do for my time slips.
I'd say results are pretty conclusive that it shaves 0.4 seconds and adds 3
mph when used properly while other variables remain the same. You mash the
gas for the duration of the run from staging to the finish and after you
dump the clutch, each time you press the clutch, the ignition is limited to
your shift RPMs. Doing this leaves the throttle plate wide-open, and you
can maintain Boost between gears.
I can't describe it any other way than awesome. 2 videos from the prior
week cover the wiring for this modification.
D.I.Y Installation Manual - Descendant® by WORLD Racing Turbo Kit
This video will walk you thru the process of installing a Descendant® by
WORLD Racing turbo Kit for your 2008 and
up Scion xB.
You may also refer to this video when installing the kit for your Scion tC.
Please contact one of our trained professionals if you would like any
email your question to info@descendant-racing or call us at 310.533.8900
Thank you for purchasing your Descendant® by WORLD Racing turbo Kit!
Now Available at http://WORLD-Motorsports.com
NRE University: Cylinder Head Secrets, Part 2 of 2.
Join Tom Nelson as he visits West Coast Cylinder Heads to film typical NRE
cylinder head modification. Good stuff for gearheads. Hundreds of videos
at http://nelsonracingengines.com. This is part 2 of 2 parts.
Monster Coolant Overflow Bottle mod
This video is intended to show that it's not the end of the world when you
have to lose parts from the engine bay to make room for other mods. Might
as well have fun with it. It might be a temporary solution until I find
something else with the appropriate bling factor, but it's damn cool and a
cheap solution until I get to that point. It's about $3.00 and a mighty
tasty treat before the bottle gets re-tasked. After consumption, some
people see garbage, I see a perfectly good car part.
So this is what I did to straighten out my coolant overflow bottle problem.
The old bottle was inadequate by design, and sitting too low to function
properly. It only vented one way, and because the bottle wasn't air-tight,
it allowed air to get sucked back into the coolant system as the hot engine
cooled. Air prevented the coolant system from being efficient and
triggered a boil-over situation any time the engine was under load at
operating temperature. That's what happened on the Dyno.
All my head gasket tests came back negative for failures, and nothing was
leaking anywhere else... nor is it leaking any more since installing this
at the proper height. I used a Mega Monster can, and fabbed mounting
bracket out of some spare 16 gauge steel I had laying around. She's ready
PS: The iMac... that thing's hilarious. I have 2 unsupported software
installs on it to serve my needs for a garage computer. It's just a 450MHz
G3, 512 MB of RAM, and a wireless card. It has OS X 10.4.11 as well as
Windows 98 with CAPS loaded for parts lookups. I can surf the web
(slowly), stream iTunes from the home media server or from internet radio
stations, and all without having to run a network to the garage. Not bad
for a computer built in 2002. 8 years later this thing finally died, but
it was hard to kill. I'm resurrecting it.