Porting an eBay 20g turbocharger
The price of this turbo will make it a
popular purchase, so I figured I'd air out some tech about ways to improve
it. This thing is not for everybody. I wouldn't feel comfortable bolting
it on my car the way it comes out of the box. I could complain about its
flaws except that so far absolutely none of them have been a deal-breaker
for me. To me it's like an empty canvas. I promise to eat those words if
it happens, and share my poop. Usually I can easily correct these flaws
myself and so can you.
If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could
easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car. Something you could
do with a free running 1g, a hacksaw, and about $500 worth of fuel
upgrades. Yeah, that would be ridiculous, and I'm bolting it onto a
well-modified car... But that being possible speaks volumes for what a DSM
can really do.
This is no big deal to me. I'd rather guinea pig my car for you in HD so
you guys can decide whether or not you'd spend your money on this. Really
it's an experiment because this isn't my daily-driver, and it contributes
to building a better Colt.
Tools I used involve:
Milwaukee model ???? 1/4" straight-shaft electric DIY grinder
Cone and ball-shaped double-cut burs
180 grit high-speed flap wheel
Dremel with a flex-shaft and a tiny 320-grit flap wheel
a zip tie
10mm combination wrench
tiny flat-blade screwdriver (00) for the e-clip on the wastegate
Polishing Aluminum (GSX is alive)
You need a big one that can run for long periods of time. Air tools are
out of the question because the compressors that can keep up with air DIY
grinders use the equivalence of 100 60-watt incandescent light bulbs while
running. Mine uses that much power and it CAN'T keep up. I like
straight-shaft electric tools because they use less power than air tools in
order to do more work. They spin faster and generally have more torque.
Electric drills don't have the RPMs needed to work efficiently because you
need heat from friction for the polishing process. Cordless,
fo'getaboutit. Bench grinders have plenty of speed, but don't make enough
torque. Most bench polishing equipment is built primarily for production,
not detail. If you have to polish large simple pieces, they're fine for
that. The goal is to use a tool that is efficient enough on what you're
polishing to make this seem less like punishment. Quality tools. Dremels
are only good for grinding and sanding tiny detail stuff, but larger
industrial DIY grinders with a .25" chuck are what you need.
Power tools are only acceptable for polishing. Power sanding equipment
doesn't have a random orbit and also doesn't leave a grain to allow you to
gauge how deep to go, so you can't achieve a polishable surface by
mechanical means. You'll also notice that sandpaper for orbital and belt
stuff doesn't go beyond 320 grit and it's expensive. With a power tool you
will inevitably leave marks too deep to remove by wet sanding with 220
grit. You will pay for cheating. Removing casting marks or rough cast
with a flap wheel is not cheating so long as you remove all of the defects
evenly and still thoroughly hand-sand the part afterwards.
Anything goes below 220 grit so long as it's dry. You have to wet-sand
everything higher than 220 grit, so both electric power tools and
non-wet-sanding paper are ruled out beyond that point. The best finishes
are hand-sanded in the crosshatch method shown in this video. If there are
stubborn scratches that your sandpaper won't take out, go to a coarser grit
and work your way back. Step up only one increment in grit with every
grade of sandpaper available until there are no visible scratches in the
surface. Skipping a grit will just mean you have to work 4x as hard to do
the same work. So 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, etc... Depending on what
grade of aluminum you're working with, you can sometimes get away with
sanding the part only to 600 grit. To get the most out of a shine, you
have to go beyond 1000 grit. The farther you go with the sandpaper, the
less work it will take to polish and maintain.
The black rouge, or emery compound, has an abrasive in it. It's also
considered a cutting compound. It removes material and makes easy work of
oxidation. Because it has an abrasive it can leave directional swirls in
the finish that are visible in some lighting conditions. It's an
extremely-coarse polish but in many cases can produce a brilliant shine.
Brown rouge is a step between black and white. Though unnecessary if
you're using black, brown is less aggressive while still having the ability
to remove scratches and defects. You can also polish wood with it.
White rouge is ideal for precious metals PLUS aluminum. It removes what a
jeweler calls a deep scratch, but what an auto enthusiast may consider
invisible. If there's a scratch that the black rouge didn't take out,
white rouge won't do it. It will however, bring out the most reflective
finish in aluminum that you can achieve mechanically.
Jeweler's rouge (red) is not for aluminum. Neither is blue or green.
Well... blue is universal supposedly. I haven't ever needed it and don't
About polishing wheels:
Polishing wheels come in different textures. For black rouge I use hard or
triple-stitched flannel wheels. The more stitching, the harder it is. The
soft wheels tend to disintegrate quickly. The harder wheels can contribute
to swirl-effects in the finish when they become contaminated.
I can't say enough good stuff about cheap-old Blue Magic metal polish.
Brightens the best white rouge polish jobs and is really easy to work with.
Mothers is good. NEV-R-DULL is an amazing product that lifts and cleans
almost anything out of metal.
Where to get supplies:
You can buy rouge by the pound at truck stops. Lots of great polishing
supplies can usually be found anywhere where you'll find the rigs. Ask a
trucker. Also there's HarborFreight, Eastwood, PJ Tool & Supply, and lots
of others. Everything's within google distance.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag
passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions,
3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
And all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint trying to get depressed cause I got all my spares out.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
The 7-bolt was FRESH with the shine like a mirror
If anything I can say this bling was rare
What I saw inside the engine stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Death of a turbo
Killed the Big16g and it was all my fault. A clamp wasn't bolted on
straight and it died an early death. New Big16g replacement has been
installed for now. Car still runs low 12's.
How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has it's rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
keywords: turbocharger dsm eclipse talon
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holset 18g 25g sbr t25 stock replace rebuilding big large nissan 240sx t28
How To Rebuild Any T3/T4 Journal Bearing Turbo Part 1
This is the first half of How To rebuild a T3/T4 turbo step by step under $40
Part 2 link.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2t9g6huUL4
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2g GSX How-To: Attempting turbo swap with WTF ending
Okay. Now I've seen it all. There's an old adage that states "if you want
something done right, you have to do it yourself". Well, this video both
confirms and debunks that theory. A lot of that depends on each person's
definition of "done right". You can't do things by-the-book with
Sheldon bought this car with a pretty full mod list and it ran great at the
time, but by the time we got it to the track, we couldn't beat a 16-second
pass. Despite the laundry list of troubleshooting we both attempted to do
through tuning and testing, we couldn't determine why it was around 4
seconds slower than it should be running. I started having doubts that a
"ported T-28" was what was on the car, and there's no easy way to tell them
apart without removing it so we opted to install a 14b... since plenty of
people easily run 13's with them. Stick around for the plot twist.
Installing an eBay 20g
I'm reviewing an ebay 20g TD05 internally-gated turbocharger. You've seen me open it, assess it,
and port it. Now I'm going to install it and see how it fits on my car.
Its dimensions are close enough to a Mitsubishi turbo that it fits well, but it didn't play nice
with my aftermarket stuff as the video illustrates.
You'll see what I mean...
The wastegate actuator nipple aims straight toward the compressor housing,
and I don't like it. I fixed it with a pair of pliers and an allen wrench
at 5:55 in a way that's far less likely to break it. The flanges and bolt
centers lined up fine and without any issues, though others have claimed to
have had them with this turbo. The
compressor cover is an obvious giveaway regarding identifying this turbo. It does not wear the cast-in designation
TD05H that the Mitsubishi turbos do, but
for $228, what do you expect?
If you chose to go this route, just manage your expectations. Be aware
that it might not bolt up perfectly to your particular car, and be willing
to fix what isn't perfect.
How to port and polish high performance v8 heads,tips,tricks and trade secrets exposed
*******CHECK OUT PART 2 *****
COMBUSTION CHAMBERS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D63jgJs95gY
I look at porting and polishing high performance heads,I been
building engines for 30 years, most of that time in research and
development,I explain in real simple terms air flows and velocities,these
308ci General Motors Holden heads have been transformed over 70 hours,I
show you all the do's and dont's,keep a lookout for the rest of the
rebuild vids, as we head into final assembly,especially dialing in
camshaft's,compression ratio's and everything else that makes internal
combustion engines cranky,Aussie Heads and Race Engines-One Man One Shop
Installing a T-28 turbo on a 98 Eclipse GSX
This is an easy install. Everything is in the same location as on the
factory turbo, and bolts right on.
Those of you who have never installed or haven't upgraded a turbo yet might find this video more useful than
those who have. Torque specs from the factory service manual are listed
for what's most important. It's imperative that new turbo bolts are used with new FACTORY turbo washers. They're a specially designed
spring washer, and are single-use. Use of other kinds of washers may cause
bolts to break or vibrate loose.
This turbo was on the car prior to this
installation, but it received a port job to match the burly EVO III
manifold. We installed a head-feed turbo oil feed line rather than use the factory
hard lines connected to the oil filter housing. Some argue that the oil
pressure from the filter housing can be harmful to the life of the turbo, but IMO, that only applies to turbos with full circumference bearing center
sections. Either way, the Stainless Steel line is cool. I'll post the
part number for the plug needed to block off the old line location.
how to turbo your honda over the weekend
UPDATE: for all those who think this method means the motor wont last, here
is a video from friday april 5th 2013 of the car still running strong, its
been over a year and around 10k miles of hard beating.
UPDATE: ALSO CHECK OUT MY SECOND VIDEO ON HOW TO turbo YOUR HONDA you can see it here
this video shows the steps to turbo your
honda in a couple days with upgraded internals and not removing the engine
or doing any machine work.
also for those saying you need to do some sort of easy break in period i
think you need to read this article , the old fashioned ways are long gone
Cylinder Head Porting and Port Matching
Anthony @ DIYautotech takes you through the steps on how to port match (
gasket match) your cylinder heads. This is a fairly simple project that
may take you about a day, but will give you a cylinder head with high flow
High Flow = More Power
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!
Don't forget to subscribe & watch all my other automotive videos!
Eastwood's DIY Polishing and Porting Cylinder Heads Kit
Buy The Kit Here:
In this video, Mark shows how to Polish and Port your Engine Cylinder Heads
and gain up to 10% more HP with Eastwood's Engine Porting Kit!
CYLINDER PORTING & FINISHING KIT offers you the most requested carbide
burrs and abrasive smoothing rolls and tapers used for engine potting and
finishing Your kit includes four different cone and tree-shape
steel-hardened, precision double-cut Carbide Steel 6" long Burrs and 10
each 80 Grit Abrasive Cylinders and Tapers with 2 each 4" and 6" long