Porting an eBay 20g turbocharger
The price of this turbo will make it a
popular purchase, so I figured I'd air out some tech about ways to improve
it. This thing is not for everybody. I wouldn't feel comfortable bolting
it on my car the way it comes out of the box. I could complain about its
flaws except that so far absolutely none of them have been a deal-breaker
for me. To me it's like an empty canvas. I promise to eat those words if
it happens, and share my poop. Usually I can easily correct these flaws
myself and so can you.
If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could
easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car. Something you could
do with a free running 1g, a hacksaw, and about $500 worth of fuel
upgrades. Yeah, that would be ridiculous, and I'm bolting it onto a
well-modified car... But that being possible speaks volumes for what a DSM
can really do.
This is no big deal to me. I'd rather guinea pig my car for you in HD so
you guys can decide whether or not you'd spend your money on this. Really
it's an experiment because this isn't my daily-driver, and it contributes
to building a better Colt.
Tools I used involve:
Milwaukee model ???? 1/4" straight-shaft electric DIY grinder
Cone and ball-shaped double-cut burs
180 grit high-speed flap wheel
Dremel with a flex-shaft and a tiny 320-grit flap wheel
a zip tie
10mm combination wrench
tiny flat-blade screwdriver (00) for the e-clip on the wastegate
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra
cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)...
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Porting wastegate / flapper garrett t3
This is a work on a t3 garret.
the point is to enlarge the flapper hole of the wastegate flapper and
increase the opening angle of this flapper to allow more gas flow.
This mod help to counter the Boost
creep or the runaway of the turbine and the adverse consequences on the turbo and the "breathing" of a stock turbo working at higher pressure that it
was originally made for.
Polishing Aluminum (GSX is alive)
You need a big one that can run for long periods of time. Air tools are
out of the question because the compressors that can keep up with air DIY
grinders use the equivalence of 100 60-watt incandescent light bulbs while
running. Mine uses that much power and it CAN'T keep up. I like
straight-shaft electric tools because they use less power than air tools in
order to do more work. They spin faster and generally have more torque.
Electric drills don't have the RPMs needed to work efficiently because you
need heat from friction for the polishing process. Cordless,
fo'getaboutit. Bench grinders have plenty of speed, but don't make enough
torque. Most bench polishing equipment is built primarily for production,
not detail. If you have to polish large simple pieces, they're fine for
that. The goal is to use a tool that is efficient enough on what you're
polishing to make this seem less like punishment. Quality tools. Dremels
are only good for grinding and sanding tiny detail stuff, but larger
industrial DIY grinders with a .25" chuck are what you need.
Power tools are only acceptable for polishing. Power sanding equipment
doesn't have a random orbit and also doesn't leave a grain to allow you to
gauge how deep to go, so you can't achieve a polishable surface by
mechanical means. You'll also notice that sandpaper for orbital and belt
stuff doesn't go beyond 320 grit and it's expensive. With a power tool you
will inevitably leave marks too deep to remove by wet sanding with 220
grit. You will pay for cheating. Removing casting marks or rough cast
with a flap wheel is not cheating so long as you remove all of the defects
evenly and still thoroughly hand-sand the part afterwards.
Anything goes below 220 grit so long as it's dry. You have to wet-sand
everything higher than 220 grit, so both electric power tools and
non-wet-sanding paper are ruled out beyond that point. The best finishes
are hand-sanded in the crosshatch method shown in this video. If there are
stubborn scratches that your sandpaper won't take out, go to a coarser grit
and work your way back. Step up only one increment in grit with every
grade of sandpaper available until there are no visible scratches in the
surface. Skipping a grit will just mean you have to work 4x as hard to do
the same work. So 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, etc... Depending on what
grade of aluminum you're working with, you can sometimes get away with
sanding the part only to 600 grit. To get the most out of a shine, you
have to go beyond 1000 grit. The farther you go with the sandpaper, the
less work it will take to polish and maintain.
The black rouge, or emery compound, has an abrasive in it. It's also
considered a cutting compound. It removes material and makes easy work of
oxidation. Because it has an abrasive it can leave directional swirls in
the finish that are visible in some lighting conditions. It's an
extremely-coarse polish but in many cases can produce a brilliant shine.
Brown rouge is a step between black and white. Though unnecessary if
you're using black, brown is less aggressive while still having the ability
to remove scratches and defects. You can also polish wood with it.
White rouge is ideal for precious metals PLUS aluminum. It removes what a
jeweler calls a deep scratch, but what an auto enthusiast may consider
invisible. If there's a scratch that the black rouge didn't take out,
white rouge won't do it. It will however, bring out the most reflective
finish in aluminum that you can achieve mechanically.
Jeweler's rouge (red) is not for aluminum. Neither is blue or green.
Well... blue is universal supposedly. I haven't ever needed it and don't
About polishing wheels:
Polishing wheels come in different textures. For black rouge I use hard or
triple-stitched flannel wheels. The more stitching, the harder it is. The
soft wheels tend to disintegrate quickly. The harder wheels can contribute
to swirl-effects in the finish when they become contaminated.
I can't say enough good stuff about cheap-old Blue Magic metal polish.
Brightens the best white rouge polish jobs and is really easy to work with.
Mothers is good. NEV-R-DULL is an amazing product that lifts and cleans
almost anything out of metal.
Where to get supplies:
You can buy rouge by the pound at truck stops. Lots of great polishing
supplies can usually be found anywhere where you'll find the rigs. Ask a
trucker. Also there's HarborFreight, Eastwood, PJ Tool & Supply, and lots
of others. Everything's within google distance.
Performance Chips - Mythbusted
Can you really get an increase of 35 horsepower using a $20
'Performance Chip' from eBay on your car? And how do they work? In this
episode of Mighty Car Mods, Marty and Moog find out, with some surprising
Stickers, music, magazines and MCM gear:
Discuss this episode here:
Also something to note around Mighty Car Mods: we are normal guys and are
not trained mechanics. We like to make interesting car mods and show you
how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you
will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone
else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible
and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious
machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. Talk to a
qualified mechanic if you are in any doubt.
Boost Leak Testing 202: Hair Spray 1080HD
Why do I know about this?
I'm tired of being the one knowing all the weird crap. If everyone knows
it, it won't be weird anymore. It will be commonplace. By the time I'm
done sealing up all of my own Boost
leaks, all of you will also be experts as well. I'm sure most of you would
teach me something, too... but you subscribed, so here it comes...
something I learned in my travels...
Also, thanks Ilya M. I've only heard about it twice in my life. It worked
great for the one time I've ever needed it, and I'm a huge fan.
Cutting Excess Guide from ProComp 210 SBC Head, custom Porting Combustion Chambers 4
Part Four of Port modificatins on ProComp 210cc aluminum SBC heads. Guide
over hang from installation and correcting the combustion chambers to
unshroud the spark plug is a big deal on these heads. China castings leave
a lot to be desired, but still with all the work you must do it is still
the bargin of the year and is a force to be reckond with when "bang per
buck" is needed. The base of the spark plug should not be exposed in the
chamber, and any valve guide "Overhang" will obstruck flow and create fuel
"sheer" which seperates vapor to droplets that wont burn. Most Big Name
companies will not take time to detial these issues as production cost
prohibit these mods, so have your local machine shop take apart your heads
and look for these problems before you bolt them on your prize engine.
Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has its rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
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Cylinder Head Porting and Port Matching
Anthony @ DIYautotech takes you through the steps on how to port match (
gasket match) your cylinder heads. This is a fairly simple project that
may take you about a day, but will give you a cylinder head with high flow
High Flow = More Power
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!
Don't forget to subscribe & watch all my other automotive videos!
Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool.
This is the second part of the Boost
leak testing series. In this video, several examples of possible leaks you
might find are exhibited, as well as suggested fixes. Hopefully this video
helps turbo cars around the world to be
healthier and more powerful.