I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here.
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block.
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.
6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front
cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for.
Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the
factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause,
and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without
the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
Colt Driveshaft Install Part 3/3
It's official! As of this video, all of the drive wheels are connected and
the cosmetics on this stage of the project are done.
The patching and grinding took me a week to complete, as I only had an hour
or so each night to work on it. I have been working on other projects
behind the scenes as well, but right in the middle of all this I was hit
with the worst case of the Flu I've ever experienced. It was debilitating.
You can still hear it in my voiceover weeks later and I'm still not 100%.
...then the holidays, and then the time-sensitive parts of this project
began. For a while it was starting to feel like this would never get done,
but I have a great sense of accomplishment at the moment. I hope to keep
that momentum on what's to come in 2013.
It's at this point where the Colt isn't forced to occupy my garage any
longer, and after a good cleaning, I have some awesome stuff in the works!
I hope to increase the channel's production for 2013 with (unlike a 4th
video on this topic) stuff that people really want to see here on
Happy New Year 'tubes!
4g63 Timing Belt Parts
I don't care which DOHC 4g63 you've got. This is the video for you. All
the parts and tools necessary to do the job right, right here.
I know some people will ask about aftermarket timing kits. I'm not a fan.
There are some things you can not skimp on. IMO, anyone using aftermarket
parts on an interference engine have put the cart in front of the horse.
Interference engines are engines whose pistons and valves share the same
space at different parts of the strokes. If the timing belt (which is
responsible for preventing them from doing that at the same time) breaks,
or a pulley seizes up, then what follows goes something like this...
"Hi piston, I'm valve", valve said.
"Oh hey there, valve... Who's your friend that I just stepped on there?",
said the piston to the valve.
"Oh, her? That's my wife, and now she's a little bent out of shape now.",
"I brought my whole crew, and they're next door introducing themselves to
the rest of your friends.", piston uttered matter-of-factly.
"So I hear. It sounds like they're done already.", said valve.
"Yep, I'm afraid we are, too. Sorry about your wife there..."
Aside from damage to pistons and valves, it can crack guides, damage rods
and wrist pins, crank bearings, you name it. Worst case is when the valve
face breaks off and chews up the cylinder head. No valve job will ever fix
Use factory parts for your engine timing.
MD326059 - OE 4g63 Timing Belt
MD182295 - OE 4g63 Balance Belt
MD972052 - 1g water pump
MD972050 - 2g water pump
MD129355 - Happy Face Pulley
MD156604 - Timing Idler Pulley
Water pump bolts:
Timing tensioners: prod. date
MD164533 - 8904.3 - 9204.3
MD308586 - 9205.1 - 9405.1
MD308587 - 9401.1 - 9508.2
MD308086 - 9508.3 + 9999.9
Balance belt tensioner pulley:
MD115976 - all 1g
MD192068 - 95-97.5
MD352473 - 97.5-99
Hyundai Assembly 5 - Fighting The Valve Clearance
In previous videos I showed the 2 factors that really need to be
scrutinized. Valve clearance and how you degree your camshafts. Of course
we got sidetracked with plenty of other tips and tricks but I wanted to
upload this video to illustrate that the process really isn't as easy as
the animations, demonstrations and explanations make it look. The
reasoning is sound, but the work to execute it can be very tedious.
Setting up the valvetrain on this engine was very tedious. I say "was"
because following this video, we can put that whole topic to bed. This is
what it took. Not many people have the patience to deal with this, and I
wanted to showcase here for those who are at the peak of their frustration
with their builds. This kind of stuff can happen to anyone. Let my pain
and suffering help you not feel so all alone.
My apologies for the lack of new groundbreaking technical info. It's not a
complicated task to install ARP head studs, and that was my plot twist.
There are a couple of hurdles you may encounter depending on the production
year of your engine, but they're well illustrated in this video. I'm not
sure if their installation warrants a video all unto itself, but if you
feel it does, speak up because I have 3 more engines to build. I can still
I just wanted to demonstrate that progress is being made on this, and
despite the long breaks between uploads, a LOT is going on behind the
scenes. This was 20 hours of repetitive work and I hope it's at least
mildly entertaining. For me, this was the most boring video I've ever
edited here because I had to re-live the same steps so many times, over and
over again. I could very easily have inserted an hour of it in the wrong
place and nobody would ever have known because it all looks the same. The
text overlays are there only so you can be aware of what's different. A
voiceover would have been pointless because the techniques illustrated are
discussed ad-nauseum in the Cylinder Head 205 and 206 videos. The valve
cover gasket installation process was covered in "Valve Cover Modification
and Polishing", and the discussion about compression ratios is explained in
"Calculate Your Compression Ratio". If you like the job the parts washer
did, check out my DIY parts washer video. ;)
Cylinder Head 205
Cylinder Head 206
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
Colt Driveshaft Install Part 1/3
There's information in the description if you feel lost. Audio loops
provided with ownership rights by RojoDelChocolate.
What you're witnessing here is the process of installing a driveshaft into
a car that didn't previously have one. The Colt's transmission tunnel
modification in the previous video was a pre-requisite elective procedure I
performed that could really make this video a part 2 except that it isn't
mandatory for installing a driveshaft. It just seems to fit better in my
opinion. I felt it would make installing a large Exhaust easier than if I hadn't done it, I want
it to be easily serviceable, and I'm building this car as if my life
depends on it because it does.
I had to extend the tunnel under the car because there was nothing to weld
the carrier bearing mount to. It lined up directly in the center of the
rear seat seam. Once positioned correctly, I welded it securely in place
where it will stay. I'm not finished making it water-tight or pretty, that
will likely be in part 2.
I mentioned I was trying to get all these parts in place to measure how
much I would cut from the driveshaft while having it shortened. That takes
us to the front carrier bearing mount. That thing didn't want to fit up in
the tunnel at all. Totally different shape. I ended up cutting off the
majority of its sides to get 2 flat(-ish) surfaces, and fabricated a couple
of pieces that DID fit the tunnel so I could weld it all in place. Those
are the pieces I drop on the ground at the end of the video. You'll notice
I didn't weld it in place. I tacked the front carrier bearing in position
with some scrap pieces after getting all my pinion angle measurements so
that I could install the front shaft and take measurements. Right now it's
just a place-holder.
Once I get the driveshaft back from shortening it, I'll install it and THEN
weld the carrier bearing in place so if there's any variation in length
from what I need, I can shift things around and make it work.
About that front shaft. The way I got my measurement was by welding a
piece of straight sharp and pointy steel to the tunnel in the middle of
where the front shaft would be, installed the front shaft with the yoke
attached into the transfer case and scratched a line on the shaft. Then I
had to remove and install the same dang u-joint because I didn't have
another good one to use. I bent 3 of the old one's caps removing them. :\
Sucked, but I digress... After installing the front shaft onto the rest of
the driveshaft, I raised it in place and scratched a second line in it.
Those lines represent the amount of material that must be cut and removed
from the shaft.
The driveshaft I used for this is from a 92.5 6-bolt/4-bolt car. Forgive
me for using that chassis as a donor for this project. Oh, and the GVR-4,
and the 2 Expo LRV's, and the Galant. Oh, I left out the Plymouth laser.
You get the idea.
Pro Tip: The driveshaft shop only wanted to know the distance between the
u-joint bore centers on the outer flanges.
They didn't care how much I wanted removed (from a shaft they could measure
themselves). They also weren't happy about converting 3.15" from decimals
to fractions. Take it easy on these ol' guys, they're good at what they do
within an 1/8 of an inch.
In the bonus round I made the e-brake cables fit. I had to change a couple
of things on the tunnel, but I love how it turned out. I wish I knew what
the hell I'm doing. I'll seal it up, paint it and make it pretty in the
next video when I rebuild the driveshaft, install it, weld in the front
carrier bearing, etc... This video and description are long enough
already. So was its production. 900 minutes of raw video in under 13. I
hope you enjoyed it.
Colt Driveshaft Install Part 2/3
It cost me $55 to have my driveshaft shortened. They even painted it at
that price. After rebuilding the Colt's driveshaft I clear up the process
and complete its installation. I discuss fabricating the front carrier
bearing mount and positioning it, illustrate pinion angles, and hit 2
points left out of the driveshaft series. Those two points being the
grease volume in the Lobro boot and using Loctite during assembly.
No fancy audio track this time. Rumor has it some people had trouble
concentrating, and we're going to cover a lot of ground fast. It's also
extremely difficult to generate 18 minute songs just to have them
permanently get hung in YouTube's copyright arbitration. So this time it's
just a detailed explanation of how this worked out for me. No
The driveshaft was shortened as the final edits were being placed on the
last video. I jumped right back into the garage to bring you the next 12
hours of footage in just under 18 minutes. There's no perfect recipe for
an AWD Colt. Everyone bakes theirs a little different. I convicted myself
to share its entire transformation and potentially my fiery death in it on
YouTube. Hopefully not the latter.
I just want to clear something up because I don't want a flame war about
this again. I'm not here as a professional mechanic handing out diplomas.
If someone learned anything from my experience, that's the reward in
hanging out here. Anyone is welcome to disagree with my methods at any
time, but I'm not going to argue or volley about this subject with anyone
in 500 character comments unless it's constructive. If anyone wishes to
complain about me breaking bolts loose by hitting my wrenches with a
mini-sledge, you're welcome to simply explain a better method that worked
for you on these parts.
You can't fit sockets over the bolt heads or nuts so you can access them
with impact wrenches or breaker bars. There's a carrier bearing tight up
against the nut side, and the bolt heads rest against the lobro joint's
metal boot cup which is not dimpled to allow access for a socket. If you
strip out the 7mm allen-head portion of the bolt, you'll never be able to
torque the bolts back down. If you use a torch there's a high probability
of starting a grease fire. A grease fire isn't very easy to stop. Most
people take apart a Lobro joint because the boot is ripped and grease is
leaking out. You have fuel, you have air, don't add fire.
No it's not good for your tools to hit them with a hammer, yes it's
dangerous because wrenches can become airborne, but if you do this over a
workbench and take precautions, it's extremely effective and you won't get
hurt. I have little concern with a 12mm crescent wrench if it's all that's
standing between me and having a 500hp AWD Colt. If you manage to break a
wrench, they're still much cheaper to replace than a fire extinguisher. I
received dozens of complaints about shop ethics, but this is an acceptable
means of breaking bolts loose when all else fails. It's the nature of red
thread locker. I figured it was better to explain this here in the
comments so others will firstly understand why it's not the ideal method,
but most of all why it's the least-dangerous method. You will injure
yourself far worse if the jaws of your wrench spread and you smash your
knuckles against something when it slips off. I respect the reasoning
behind others' concern on this topic and I don't want anyone getting hurt
either... so consider that your 12mm wrench may be expendable on this job,
and proceed at your own risk.
But the other thing I left out of the driveshaft series... make sure you
have a fresh tube of red loctite handy. I thought I had mine before I
started the job and it was hard as nails. You need red loctite on your
I do indeed fail at important things from time to time. I'll be sure to do
it on-video and make a public example of myself when I do so we can all
learn from it.
COME Racing assembling the short block and more...
After machining everything you are ready to assemble the engine. A few
hints on how to do certain checks to ensure everything goes together
correctly. Measuring clearances, cam dial in, lifter preload setting etc.
Cylinder Head 102 - Hydro Test Valves
If you noticed a drop in compression on one cylinder, and pouring a cap of
oil through the spark plug holes didn't fix it, then it's likely you
experienced a leaky valve or a burnt valve seat. What this test does is
show you where it was leaking. Typically it takes a valve job to repair,
but this can also occur on a freshly-machined head if any work was done
improperly or out-of-center.
I'm using tap water for the test because both cylinder heads I'm testing
will receive extensive machine work and cleaning before being re-used. If
you were to do this test on a freshly-machined head, you'd want to use
deionized water as it contains none of the salts (sodium, chlorine, etc...)
that would leave deposits and corrode metal parts.
Cylinder Head 206 - Valve Clearance (& LSA)
This video is the companion and continuation video for Cylinder Head 205.
In Cylinder Head 205 we covered the tools and technique for setting valve
timing versus the factory-recommended specifications. It didn't work,
thus; this video. How do I know it didn't work? Watch this video.
The reason this is a companion video is because anyone changing their valve
timing must also CHECK their valve clearance or risk bending valves. If I
can install aftermarket cams, then I have made significant changes to my
valve clearance. If I move cam gears on an engine that was previously
running, then I have made significant changes to my valve clearance. If I
have milled my head or block, I have made significant changes to my valve
clearance. If I have installed larger valves, I have made significant
changes to my valve clearance. Mitsubishi doesn't build a whole lot of
wiggle room into their valvetrains. They keep the valves pretty tight to
maximize performance and a 4g63 IS an interference engine. Note that if
you follow the recommendations in this video and damage your valvetrain
that I am not responsible. Here I demonstrate all of the techniques to
ensure that damage never occurs because these tests are performed PRIOR to
the engine ever starting, and prove that clearance is adequate for THE
PARTS I SHOW HERE ON CAMERA. There can be components installed in other
rotating assemblies that require additional clearance to be built into your
valve clearance such as aluminum rods, or other alloys employed in the
casting and forging of rotating assembly parts and valves. I strongly urge
you to check with those manufacturers for their recommendations regarding
thermal expansion, stretch, bounce rocker gap or float prior to making any
adjustments, and use this video only as a documentation of my experience.
In other words, it's my opinion. What works in your engine will likely be
very different from mine, but the tests and the math shown here will work
the same with your build.
To find your intake valve clearance... Add your intake valve opening
degrees (btdc) to your intake valve closing degrees (abdc) to 180°.
IO + IC + 180 = DURATION
DURATION ÷ 2 = LOBE CENTERLINE
LOBE CENTERLINE - IO = INSTALLED INTAKE CENTERLINE
To find your Exhaust valve
clearance... Add your Exhaust valve
opening degrees (bbdc) to your intake valve closing degrees (atdc) to
EO + EC + 180 = DURATION
DURATION ÷ 2 = LOBE CENTERLINE
LOBE CENTERLINE - EC = INSTALLED Exhaust CENTERLINE
To get your Lobe Separation Angle, ADD your INSTALLED INTAKE CENTERLINE to
your INSTALLED Exhaust CENTERLINE and
divide that result by 2.
Intake Centerline + Exhaust Centerline
÷ 2 = LSA
Tight Lobe Separation Angles
* MOVE TORQUE LOWER IN THE POWER BAND
* INCREASE MAXIMUM TORQUE OUTPUT
* INCREASE CYLINDER PRESSURE
* INCREASE CRANKING COMPRESSION
* INCREASE EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION
* INCREASE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SCAVENGING EFFECT
* SHORTEN YOUR POWER BAND
* REDUCE IDLE VACUUM!
* REDUCE IDLE STABILITY
* INCREASE LIKELIHOOD OF KNOCK!
* INCREASE OVERLAP
* DECREASE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE!
Wide Lobe Separation Angles
* MOVE TORQUE HIGHER IN THE POWER BAND
* DECREASE MAXIMUM TORQUE OUTPUT
* LENGTHEN YOUR POWER BAND
* DECREASE CYLINDER PRESSURE
* DECREASE LIKELIHOOD OF KNOCK
* DECREASE CRANKING COMPRESSION
* DECREASE EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION
* INCREASE IDLE VACUUM
* IMPROVE IDLE STABILITY
* DECREASE OVERLAP
* DECREASE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SCAVENGING EFFECT
* INCREASE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE
There's more that I want to say about Lobe Separation Angle (LSA). If
you're tuning a DOHC engine with cam gears, you're very lucky to go through
all this trouble. The pushrod and SOHC crowd can't change their lobe
separation angles without replacing their camshaft, and on many engines
that means removing the cylinder heads. On a 4g63 with adjustable gears,
you loosen the lock bolts, turn, lock it back down and you've adjusted your
LSA. This is a luxury which if you've never had to build a SOHC or a
pushrod engine and install camshafts that you take for granted. DOHC
tuning permits the ability to alter the opening and closing events of the
valves independently of one another and perfect the valve timing during
tuning without having to completely remove and replace the valvetrain.
What this also means is that the pushrod crowd needs to know and understand
a lot more about their camshaft profiles prior to making their purchase as
we [the DOHC crowd] do. They have to be on their A-game when they drop the
coin on a new cam or else things get expensive really quick. Lobe
separation angle says more about how camshafts behave than duration and
lift, but all 3 should be carefully scrutinized when you're making that
Yes, I did actually animate my engine's valve timing exactly the way HKS
said to set it up. Yes those are all actual photos of my parts. Yes that
was the biggest Photoshop file I've ever created.
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils