I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here.
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block.
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.
Many of you have seen this one before. I apologize if bringing it back
Domestickilla gave me a crankshaft, and it's a nice one that I want to
clean up and use again. You'll be seeing a lot of it and because of this,
this video deserves to be here. I fixed what I broke, and this was my
In this video Ballos Precision Machine demonstrates magnetic dye penetrant
testing, crankshaft polishing and inspecting the balance of a "butchered"
4g63 6-bolt crankshaft.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Jafro's GSX Build Parts - 1gina2g
Some advice and expectations about the parts acquisition process. Cars
only get built in a week on TV. And still then you have to take their word
for it. The ones that actually do it have a 20 man full-time crew, and
therefore; they have no excuse for not having it done yet.
We don't have that. Stuff takes time. I'm not building a car to sell it.
There's a whole lot of parts in this video. Whole lot of parts. Rather
than spend a ton of space babbling incessantly, this is what you came here
for. Part numbers. Meat. This isn't an all-inclusive list of parts for a
rebuild. It's what YouTube let me fit. I hope you find what you needed.
If not, hang tight. Help is on the way.
Shoutout to Sirnixalot in the Cayman Islands for this thread about
valvetrain part weights:
MF140202 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Flange M6 x 10 (2qty)
MD012109 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Washer Assembled 6 x 16 (2qty)
MF140202 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6 x 10 (4qty)
MD167134 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (2qty) Flange M6 x 8
MD097012 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (17qty) Flange M6x10
MD131417 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6x16
MD040557 - Bolt, Flywheel (6qty) M12x22.5
MS401451 - Stud, M10 x 28 Cylinder Block
MD065945 - Plug, Cylinder Block Screw (balance shaft)
MS240211 - Bolt, Crankshaft Pulley Washer Assembled M8x25 (4qty)
MD129350 - Bolt, Timing Belt Tensioner (2qty) M8x51
MD129354 - Bolt, Timing Belt Train M10x33 Happy Face Bolt
MF140062 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M10x30
MF140225 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x20 (4qty)
MF140227 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x25
MF140233 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x40
MF241266 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x65
MF241261 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x40 (2qty)
MF241268 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x75
MF241264 - Bolt, Washer Assembled M8x55
MF140021 - Bolt, Cooling Water Line Flange M8x12
MF241256 - Bolt, M/T Clutch Slave Cylinder Washer Assembled M8x28
MD718549 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x130 (3qty)
MF241319 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x70 (4qty)
MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60
MD108474 - Bolt, Starter Flange M10x65 (2qty)
MF140266 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x40 (2qty)
MD740892 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x43.5
MF140471 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x65
MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60
MF140021 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x12
6-bolt Rear Main Seal Housing:
MF140205 - Bolt, Cylinder Block Flange M6 x 16 (5qty) Rear Oil Seal Case
MD040330 - Case, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
MD040332 - Oil Separator Crakshaft rear oil seal
MF472403 - Pin Cylinder Block Dowel 6x14mm (2qty)
MD183243 - Gasket, Rear Oil Seal Case
7-bolt Rear Main Seal Case MD172170*
* oil separator ring only required on 6-bolt cars, same oil seal, different
Throttle Body Gasket:
8903.1-9006.1 MD125822 1g
9006.2-9207.3 MD146399 1g (AC60-653)
9208.1-9405.1 MD194578 1g
9401.1-9907.2 MD180360 all 2g cars (MD1)
Intake Elbow Gasket:
8903.1-9207.3 MD340327 1g
9208.1-9405.1 MD194827 1g
9401.1-9907.2 MD302262 all 2g cars
MD307343 - OE Valve Stem Seals (16qty)
MD087060 - OE Fuel Injector Insulator (4qty)
MD614813 - OE Fuel Injector O-Ring (4qty)
MD181032 - Gasket, Exhaust Manifold
MD188995 - Gasket, 1g Intake Manifold
MD192031 - Gasket, 2g Intake Manifold
MD183808 - Gasket, Standard Composite Head Gasket 89-99
MD069879 - 1g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit
MD177572 - 2g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit
MD310606 - 1g/2g alternator belt 985mm
MD186124 - 1g/2g alternator belt 980mm
MD186784 - 1g/2g Valve Cover Gasket
MD186785 - 1g/2g Spark Plug Well Gaskets (4qty)
MN119896 - 1g tensioner arm
MD170402 - 2g tensioner arm
MD997608 - 1g thermostat kit
MD315301 - 2g Thermostat Kit
MD141510 - 1g Knock Sensor
MD300670 - 2g Knock Sensor
MD133273 - 1g/2g Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor
MD091056 - 1g/2g Coolant Temperature Switch
MD095656 - 6 bolt clutch cover plate
MD191171 - 7 bolt clutch cover plate
MD178430 - 1g Power Steering Belt
MD310617 - 2g Power Steering Belt
MD311638 - Oil filter cap gasket
MD343564 - Oil Seal, Crankshaft Rear
MD030764 - O-ring, Cooling Water Pipe 33.4mm
MD375091 - EVO 8 Rocker Arm
Blueprint 104 - The Crankshaft
It's important to know what you've got even before dealing with the
machinist. If you want to inspect a crankshaft, this is how you do it. I
detail the process of removing the crank and what to measure. All
specifications in this video are illustrated with a 6-bolt 4g63 turbo block, but are all actually the same for
7-bolt engines with the exception of the rod widths.
Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an
original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate.
My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I
do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again.
Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead
and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings
will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a
hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first.
The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows:
Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust
and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral
spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale.
The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence
happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from
powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If
following these instructions to the letter of the law.
Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine.
You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm
not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I
don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the
windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down
This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the
same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent.
You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY
CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in
this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that
I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm
learning about it just like the rest of you.
6-bolt 4g63 Kiggly Main Girdle Install
Ballos Precision Machine was nice enough to let me into their operations
and film the installation of my 6-bolt Kiggly Main Girdle. They let me do
this as a gift to all of you.
THIS IS NOT THE FINAL INSTALLATION.
Though all the parts were cleaned prior to pickup, they will be extensively
cleaned again, and the fasteners installed finger-tight with red Loctite
exactly 15mm above the surface of the main girdle and torqued in the proper
My main caps were level and straight, the crank bore was straight to begin
with, and had never been line bored following the original assembly at the
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front
cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for.
Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the
factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause,
and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without
the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.
Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might
perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a
problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is
brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers
cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius
cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of
actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else
THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional
explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented
access to your facilities.
A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new
seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several
different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the
process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that
utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate
angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all
3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine
demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out
of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape
of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30,
45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between
My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated
stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized
Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves.
Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction
performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without
melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed
typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and
a bigger valve.
Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head:
I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another
valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this
raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft
selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only
solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the
valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.
Mitsubishi 4G63 Honing with Torque Plate
See what a difference a torque plate makes on a Mitsubishi 4G63 block out
of an Evo IX makes as John Edwards @ Costa Mesa R&D Automotiove Machine
walks you through the steps. (949) 631-6376 Don't forget to 'Click' and
4g63 Timing Belt Parts
I don't care which DOHC 4g63 you've got. This is the video for you. All
the parts and tools necessary to do the job right, right here.
I know some people will ask about aftermarket timing kits. I'm not a fan.
There are some things you can not skimp on. IMO, anyone using aftermarket
parts on an interference engine have put the cart in front of the horse.
Interference engines are engines whose pistons and valves share the same
space at different parts of the strokes. If the timing belt (which is
responsible for preventing them from doing that at the same time) breaks,
or a pulley seizes up, then what follows goes something like this...
"Hi piston, I'm valve", valve said.
"Oh hey there, valve... Who's your friend that I just stepped on there?",
said the piston to the valve.
"Oh, her? That's my wife, and now she's a little bent out of shape now.",
"I brought my whole crew, and they're next door introducing themselves to
the rest of your friends.", piston uttered matter-of-factly.
"So I hear. It sounds like they're done already.", said valve.
"Yep, I'm afraid we are, too. Sorry about your wife there..."
Aside from damage to pistons and valves, it can crack guides, damage rods
and wrist pins, crank bearings, you name it. Worst case is when the valve
face breaks off and chews up the cylinder head. No valve job will ever fix
Use factory parts for your engine timing.
MD326059 - OE 4g63 Timing Belt
MD182295 - OE 4g63 Balance Belt
MD972052 - 1g water pump
MD972050 - 2g water pump
MD129355 - Happy Face Pulley
MD156604 - Timing Idler Pulley
Water pump bolts:
Timing tensioners: prod. date
MD164533 - 8904.3 - 9204.3
MD308586 - 9205.1 - 9405.1
MD308587 - 9401.1 - 9508.2
MD308086 - 9508.3 + 9999.9
Balance belt tensioner pulley:
MD115976 - all 1g
MD192068 - 95-97.5
MD352473 - 97.5-99
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before
in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are
in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see
this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and
materials will be used.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track.
Oil Pan Bolts
18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109
2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will
1g Front Case Bolts
4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233
1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt)
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt)
1g oil pump housing bolts
5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw)
1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt)
Oil Pump Sprocket Nut
1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite
1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH)
2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261
1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264
1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266
1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts
5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt)
5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts
2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt)
2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt
1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt
1 x x x x MD129421 Washer
6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars)
7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos)
* Part substitution # 2795A956
Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer
1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT
1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER
For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt
4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video:
For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my
4g63 Timing Belt Parts video:
In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt
AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild:
For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing
information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the
unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter
Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now,
as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always
hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production
and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to
resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to
me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered
projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new
I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi
began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has
been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that
helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though
this isn't a DSM.
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average