I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here.
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block.
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.
Many of you have seen this one before. I apologize if bringing it back
Domestickilla gave me a crankshaft, and it's a nice one that I want to
clean up and use again. You'll be seeing a lot of it and because of this,
this video deserves to be here. I fixed what I broke, and this was my
In this video Ballos Precision Machine demonstrates magnetic dye penetrant
testing, crankshaft polishing and inspecting the balance of a "butchered"
4g63 6-bolt crankshaft.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before
in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are
in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see
this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and
materials will be used.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track.
Oil Pan Bolts
18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109
2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will
1g Front Case Bolts
4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233
1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt)
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt)
1g oil pump housing bolts
5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw)
1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt)
Oil Pump Sprocket Nut
1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite
1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH)
2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261
1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264
1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266
1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts
5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt)
5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts
2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt)
2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt
1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt
1 x x x x MD129421 Washer
6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars)
7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos)
* Part substitution # 2795A956
Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer
1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT
1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER
For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt
4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video:
For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my
4g63 Timing Belt Parts video:
In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt
AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild:
For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing
information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the
unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter
Jafro's GSX Build Parts - 1gina2g
Some advice and expectations about the parts acquisition process. Cars
only get built in a week on TV. And still then you have to take their word
for it. The ones that actually do it have a 20 man full-time crew, and
therefore; they have no excuse for not having it done yet.
We don't have that. Stuff takes time. I'm not building a car to sell it.
There's a whole lot of parts in this video. Whole lot of parts. Rather
than spend a ton of space babbling incessantly, this is what you came here
for. Part numbers. Meat. This isn't an all-inclusive list of parts for a
rebuild. It's what YouTube let me fit. I hope you find what you needed.
If not, hang tight. Help is on the way.
Shoutout to Sirnixalot in the Cayman Islands for this thread about
valvetrain part weights:
MF140202 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Flange M6 x 10 (2qty)
MD012109 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Washer Assembled 6 x 16 (2qty)
MF140202 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6 x 10 (4qty)
MD167134 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (2qty) Flange M6 x 8
MD097012 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (17qty) Flange M6x10
MD131417 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6x16
MD040557 - Bolt, Flywheel (6qty) M12x22.5
MS401451 - Stud, M10 x 28 Cylinder Block
MD065945 - Plug, Cylinder Block Screw (balance shaft)
MS240211 - Bolt, Crankshaft Pulley Washer Assembled M8x25 (4qty)
MD129350 - Bolt, Timing Belt Tensioner (2qty) M8x51
MD129354 - Bolt, Timing Belt Train M10x33 Happy Face Bolt
MF140062 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M10x30
MF140225 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x20 (4qty)
MF140227 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x25
MF140233 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x40
MF241266 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x65
MF241261 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x40 (2qty)
MF241268 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x75
MF241264 - Bolt, Washer Assembled M8x55
MF140021 - Bolt, Cooling Water Line Flange M8x12
MF241256 - Bolt, M/T Clutch Slave Cylinder Washer Assembled M8x28
MD718549 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x130 (3qty)
MF241319 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x70 (4qty)
MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60
MD108474 - Bolt, Starter Flange M10x65 (2qty)
MF140266 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x40 (2qty)
MD740892 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x43.5
MF140471 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x65
MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60
MF140021 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x12
6-bolt Rear Main Seal Housing:
MF140205 - Bolt, Cylinder Block Flange M6 x 16 (5qty) Rear Oil Seal Case
MD040330 - Case, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
MD040332 - Oil Separator Crakshaft rear oil seal
MF472403 - Pin Cylinder Block Dowel 6x14mm (2qty)
MD183243 - Gasket, Rear Oil Seal Case
7-bolt Rear Main Seal Case MD172170*
* oil separator ring only required on 6-bolt cars, same oil seal, different
Throttle Body Gasket:
8903.1-9006.1 MD125822 1g
9006.2-9207.3 MD146399 1g (AC60-653)
9208.1-9405.1 MD194578 1g
9401.1-9907.2 MD180360 all 2g cars (MD1)
Intake Elbow Gasket:
8903.1-9207.3 MD340327 1g
9208.1-9405.1 MD194827 1g
9401.1-9907.2 MD302262 all 2g cars
MD307343 - OE Valve Stem Seals (16qty)
MD087060 - OE Fuel Injector Insulator (4qty)
MD614813 - OE Fuel Injector O-Ring (4qty)
MD181032 - Gasket, Exhaust Manifold
MD188995 - Gasket, 1g Intake Manifold
MD192031 - Gasket, 2g Intake Manifold
MD183808 - Gasket, Standard Composite Head Gasket 89-99
MD069879 - 1g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit
MD177572 - 2g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit
MD310606 - 1g/2g alternator belt 985mm
MD186124 - 1g/2g alternator belt 980mm
MD186784 - 1g/2g Valve Cover Gasket
MD186785 - 1g/2g Spark Plug Well Gaskets (4qty)
MN119896 - 1g tensioner arm
MD170402 - 2g tensioner arm
MD997608 - 1g thermostat kit
MD315301 - 2g Thermostat Kit
MD141510 - 1g Knock Sensor
MD300670 - 2g Knock Sensor
MD133273 - 1g/2g Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor
MD091056 - 1g/2g Coolant Temperature Switch
MD095656 - 6 bolt clutch cover plate
MD191171 - 7 bolt clutch cover plate
MD178430 - 1g Power Steering Belt
MD310617 - 2g Power Steering Belt
MD311638 - Oil filter cap gasket
MD343564 - Oil Seal, Crankshaft Rear
MD030764 - O-ring, Cooling Water Pipe 33.4mm
MD375091 - EVO 8 Rocker Arm
6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front
cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for.
Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the
factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause,
and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without
the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.
6-bolt 4g63 Kiggly Main Girdle Install
Ballos Precision Machine was nice enough to let me into their operations
and film the installation of my 6-bolt Kiggly Main Girdle. They let me do
this as a gift to all of you.
THIS IS NOT THE FINAL INSTALLATION.
Though all the parts were cleaned prior to pickup, they will be extensively
cleaned again, and the fasteners installed finger-tight with red Loctite
exactly 15mm above the surface of the main girdle and torqued in the proper
My main caps were level and straight, the crank bore was straight to begin
with, and had never been line bored following the original assembly at the
Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now,
as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always
hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production
and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to
resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to
me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered
projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new
I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi
began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has
been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that
helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though
this isn't a DSM.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint all depressed cause I seen this before.
I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
If anything you could say that this bling is rare,
and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag
passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions,
3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might
perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a
problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is
brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers
cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius
cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of
actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else
THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional
explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented
access to your facilities.
A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new
seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several
different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the
process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that
utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate
angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all
3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine
demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out
of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape
of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30,
45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between
My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated
stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized
Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves.
Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction
performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without
melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed
typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and
a bigger valve.
Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head:
I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another
valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this
raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft
selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only
solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the
valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
Block Preparation Part 2 - 1gina2g Timing Side
RRE Method: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm
Technically, I'm doing the Magnus method, but my wiring will be very
All 1g cars use the same water pump, and naturally they use the same water
pump bolts as well. I use the 1g tensioner arm because it clears the water
pump without any grinding of either one of those parts.
1g Water Pump
1g Water Pump Bolts
1g Timing Tensioner Arm
This 2g timing mount assembly includes a tensioner arm, washer, pivot bolt,
idler pulley and bolt.. You won't need the included tensioner arm with my
method. It doesn't come with the studs on the top, so you'd need to buy a
pair of those.
Complete 2g Timing Mount Assembly
Engine Mount Studs
Depending on whether you're installing a 1g 6-bolt or a 1g 7-bolt engine
block in your 2g chassis, you're going to need the front case and hydraulic
tensioner that matches the block you're using.
Front Case Assemblies
MD129347 (6-bolt straight cut gears)
MD175762 (6-bolt helical cut gears)
MD327450 (7-bolt helical for 1g block)
1g Hydraulic Tensioner
1g Hydraulic Tensioner Bolts
MD129350 x2 6-bolt
MD190987 x2 7-bolt
You can modify a 2g lower timing cover to make it fit, but it won't line up
around the bottom of the front case. That's why I use the 1g timing cover,
and modify it to fit the 2g middle cover.
Since you need metal covers against the block to have something to bolt the
plastic parts to, let's start with those. The rear metal cover that bolts
to the head is exactly the same part for both 1g and 2g cars. With my
method, you need to use the 2g front metal cover in order to line up with
the 2g middle plastic cover. So all of the plates that bolt to my swap are
from a 2g.
1g2g Timing Middle Cover, Rear (metal)
2g Timing Middle Cover, Front (metal)
2g Timing Lower Cover, Rear (metal)
For the plastic part of the covers, my method dictates that you use the 1g
lower timing cover assembly. This lines up all of the bolt holes and makes
it fit around the bottom of the front case where the oil pan is. If you
modify the lower cover to fit with the middle 2g cover, you won't need to
trim anything else.
The upper timing cover you need may depend on which head and valve cover
Lower Timing Cover Assembly
MD141454 1g 6-bolt block
MD193995 1g 7-bolt block
2g Middle Timing Cover Assembly
MD191811 - 9401.1-9606.3
MD191807 - 9607.1-9912.9
Upper Timing Cover WITH Rubber Gaskets
1g - MD141457 6-bolt head
1g - MD188127 7-bolt head
2g - MD198031
This is a good place to transition into the rubber parts because the rubber
pieces are very different for the 1g and 2g upper timing covers. If you
don't want a rattling, buzzing, noisy valve cover sounding off with every
vibration from your car, you should replace all of the rubber. It dry rots
and turns hard. If you bought a complete 1g engine gasket set and you have
both timing covers already, then you should have the 1g portion of these
rubber gaskets included in your gasket set.
If you've already got both generations of the timing covers like I do, and
no good rubber gaskets, then order all of these parts and stop the rattles.
However, if you bought any of the plastic timing cover parts new from the
dealer, then those plastic parts come with the rubber gaskets included.
You can eliminate them from your order.
* If you bought a complete 1g plastic lower
timing cover, you don't need the 1g gaskets.
Upper Timing Cover Gaskets by themselves...
1g - MD031235 & MD122058 6-bolt head
1g - MD188123 & MD188124 7-bolt head
2g - MD188122
Now for the last part. Fasteners. These are all of the upper, middle and
lower timing cover bolts whether they bolt down metal or plastic parts.
I've included their lengths and diameters so you can identify them.
All Timing Cover Bolts
MF140216 x1 6x45 (middle cover)
MF140202 x4 6x10
MF140206 x9 6x18
MF140209 x2 6x25
MF140210 x2 6x28
MF247868 x2 6x25
MD131417 x2 6x16
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra
cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)...
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Cylinder Head 104 - Remove Valves & Springs
Just one of many ways to remove valves from a cylinder head. I haven't
seen a valve compressor like this one on YouTube yet. I know it's nobody
makes them like this, because this one is a custom hack job specifically
for 4g63 heads... but it's extremely effective and easy to use.
Since I don't own a valve grinder, valve spring pressure testers (for
installed height measurement), or valve seat grinding stones... there are
several services I'm unable to perform myself. But since I can get the
head disassembled to this state, it would be easier and cheaper for me to
have them serviced by someone who does.
Valve grinding machine time is cheaper if they don't have to tear down the
head. You can lap them in yourself, but if the seat's in really bad shape,
it will require attention to allow any of those efforts to be worthwhile.
Valve seat grinding if necessary needs to be done with the proper tools,
and if the seats must be replaced, then it can get expensive. Usually
$20-ish a hole. Sometimes an oversized bore can be cut into a factory
seat. I'm ordering a set of valves to see if that's possible.
4g63 Timing Belt Parts
I don't care which DOHC 4g63 you've got. This is the video for you. All
the parts and tools necessary to do the job right, right here.
I know some people will ask about aftermarket timing kits. I'm not a fan.
There are some things you can not skimp on. IMO, anyone using aftermarket
parts on an interference engine have put the cart in front of the horse.
Interference engines are engines whose pistons and valves share the same
space at different parts of the strokes. If the timing belt (which is
responsible for preventing them from doing that at the same time) breaks,
or a pulley seizes up, then what follows goes something like this...
"Hi piston, I'm valve", valve said.
"Oh hey there, valve... Who's your friend that I just stepped on there?",
said the piston to the valve.
"Oh, her? That's my wife, and now she's a little bent out of shape now.",
"I brought my whole crew, and they're next door introducing themselves to
the rest of your friends.", piston uttered matter-of-factly.
"So I hear. It sounds like they're done already.", said valve.
"Yep, I'm afraid we are, too. Sorry about your wife there..."
Aside from damage to pistons and valves, it can crack guides, damage rods
and wrist pins, crank bearings, you name it. Worst case is when the valve
face breaks off and chews up the cylinder head. No valve job will ever fix
Use factory parts for your engine timing.
MD326059 - OE 4g63 Timing Belt
MD182295 - OE 4g63 Balance Belt
MD972052 - 1g water pump
MD972050 - 2g water pump
MD129355 - Happy Face Pulley
MD156604 - Timing Idler Pulley
Water pump bolts:
Timing tensioners: prod. date
MD164533 - 8904.3 - 9204.3
MD308586 - 9205.1 - 9405.1
MD308587 - 9401.1 - 9508.2
MD308086 - 9508.3 + 9999.9
Balance belt tensioner pulley:
MD115976 - all 1g
MD192068 - 95-97.5
MD352473 - 97.5-99