I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here.
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block.
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.
6-bolt 4g63 Kiggly Main Girdle Install
Ballos Precision Machine was nice enough to let me into their operations and film the installation of my 6-bolt Kiggly Main Girdle. They let me do this as a gift to all of you.
THIS IS NOT THE FINAL INSTALLATION.
Though all the parts were cleaned prior to pickup, they will be extensively cleaned again, and the fasteners installed finger-tight with red Loctite exactly 15mm above the surface of the main girdle and torqued in the proper torque sequence.
My main caps were level and straight, the crank bore was straight to begin with, and had never been line bored following the original assembly at the factory.
Mitsubishi 4G63 Honing with Torque Plate
See what a difference a torque plate makes on a Mitsubishi 4G63 block out of an Evo IX makes as John Edwards @ Costa Mesa R&D Automotiove Machine walks you through the steps. (949) 631-6376 Don't forget to 'Click' and SUBSCRIBE.
6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for.
Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause, and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
One for the weekend warriors... Audio track by RojoDelChocolate. And that really is Mr. Chocolate himself playing some jungle-action on his drum kit to a bunch of garage band loops. Give the man some props!
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up this summer after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use. The cleanliness of the crankcase and overall lack of carbon buildup is a testament to the quality of Mobil1 Synthetic oil.
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
And all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint trying to get depressed cause I got all my spares out.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
The 7-bolt was FRESH with the shine like a mirror
If anything I can say this bling was rare
What I saw inside the engine stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent. But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame crankwalk.
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever... Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault. You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your car.
Blueprint 104 - The Crankshaft
It's important to know what you've got even before dealing with the machinist. If you want to inspect a crankshaft, this is how you do it. I detail the process of removing the crank and what to measure. All specifications in this video are illustrated with a 6-bolt 4g63 turbo block, but are all actually the same for 7-bolt engines with the exception of the rod widths.
How To Replace a Wheel Cylinder -EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
Discussion about this video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/component/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/37627-How-To-Replace-a-Wheel-Cylinder?Itemid=0#37627
Changing/Bleeding Brake fluid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5O_pbC8R2E
Drum Brake Shoe Replacement Video Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=195JUby2Uy4
Drum Brake Shoe Replacement Video Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6I9HtUC_hM
This is a request that I was happy to be able to fill. I've been looking for a wheel cylinder job for over 2 years and this Toyota finally provided me the opportunity. As you can see it's not a bad job at all to do provided that things come apart as they did in this video. If they don't come apart like that then follow the recommendations in the video of how to deal with those situations. Don't worry about bending the brake line it's a lot better than twisting and possibly breaking the brake line, once you do that there's no going back. Also make sure to use a line wrench when breaking the brake line loose, if not you could round it off and that would also not be good. Thanks for watching, I hope the video helps you should you have to replace a wheel cylinder on your vehicle.
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it if you're building your own 4g63 head.
The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port sizes on the intake and Exhaust, and different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a 6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are all the same.
Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g head installations on a 1g block.
4g63 Oil Port Modification:
2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block:
Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a 1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil system.
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price.
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.
6-bolt 4g63 Crankshaft Chamfer & Oil Clearances
These are some things you need to think about during your build. Some engines don't have any chamfer on oiled journals whatsoever. All equipment like that can benefit from at least a light chamfer like the one that's on a stock Mitsubishi crank shown in this video.
When you Chamfer an oil passage, you create a low-pressure zone where the edges of the oil passage lift away from the bearing as it passes over it. The principles of fluid dynamics dictate that if there wasn't an available substance to displace that low pressure zone (in this scenario, there is an oil supply), cavitation might occur. If we were talking about aerodynamics, the effect would be lift.
An extremely-advanced or leading chamfer is actually capable of sucking oil off of a flat bearing, whereas a trailing chamfer vacuums oil out of a gallery and does a better job of spreading it around.
The modification that was performed here is intended to increase oil flow to the mains and the rods. It's mentioned in the video that I'm setting up my rod oil clearances on the looser side of spec. This will decrease block oil pressure because more oil will be able to leak past the fillets of the crankshaft and back to the pan.
But there's another modification being performed. A balance shaft elimination. There will be lots of debate about this in the coming videos as that transpires, but one of the side-affects of doing a BSE is increased oil pressure. With several internal oil holes plugged off inside the block, I will have a spike in oil pressure. I had my chamfers cut straight in order to offer the largest practical surface area to apply oil to the mains and rods. My intention is to relieve some of this oil flow that doesn't have anywhere else to go. With the added flow, the straight chamfer is actually beneficial to the mains, allowing them to intake more oil as well as to spread more of it on the flats below the grooved upper bearing.
The animations illustrate this completely. They were created by yours-truly. I know the oil hole on the mains is on the wrong side. It was too much work to fix, but they get the point across. Don't laugh at them any harder than I did.