6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts

I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove. I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are going into my 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX. I used to have a big diatribe at the end of my description. Instead I'm going to tell you that I bought my parts at ExtremePSI and from mitsparts.com. These are the parts that facilitate the installation of a 1g engine into a 2g car, and it focuses mostly on the shortblock rebuild parts, and the valve train stuff should be in your hands as well by this time so you can have the parts fitted to spec during the head rebuild. I like to finish the head work before I start assembly. It's just how I do things in a complete rebuild. It's really satisfying to bolt a finished head on after you're done putting together your rotating assembly. Cams, timing belt, valve cover, oil pan, done. In this video: https://youtu.be/spIm4QeN3xQ I demonstrated the modifications necessary for a second generation timng-side engine mount to fit the front of a 6-bolt engine block while maintaining operation of service tools for doing timing belt jobs, and also so that you can fit a 1g timing cover over it because your 2g timing cover won't. If you're putting your 6-bolt engine into a second generation car, this video is a must-see.

More Videos...

6-bolt 4g63 Kiggly Main Girdle Install
Ballos Precision Machine was nice enough to let me into their operations and film the installation of my 6-bolt Kiggly Main Girdle. They let me do this as a gift to all of you. THIS IS NOT THE FINAL INSTALLATION. Though all the parts were cleaned prior to pickup, they will be extensively cleaned again, and the fasteners installed finger-tight with red Loctite exactly 15mm above the surface of the main girdle and torqued in the proper torque sequence. My main caps were level and straight, the crank bore was straight to begin with, and had never been line bored following the original assembly at the factory.

GSX Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate. My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again. Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first. The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows: Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale. The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If following these instructions to the letter of the law. Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine. You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down there. This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent. You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm learning about it just like the rest of you.

4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in the assembly phase. It's linked in the video. The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes a price. Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft, wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over 10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up. So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy punishment to do this like that. The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's regulated at 15 PSI.

Jafro's GSX Build Parts - 1gina2g
Some advice and expectations about the parts acquisition process. Cars only get built in a week on TV. And still then you have to take their word for it. The ones that actually do it have a 20 man full-time crew, and therefore; they have no excuse for not having it done yet. We don't have that. Stuff takes time. I'm not building a car to sell it. There's a whole lot of parts in this video. Whole lot of parts. Rather than spend a ton of space babbling incessantly, this is what you came here for. Part numbers. Meat. This isn't an all-inclusive list of parts for a rebuild. It's what YouTube let me fit. I hope you find what you needed. If not, hang tight. Help is on the way. Shoutout to Sirnixalot in the Cayman Islands for this thread about valvetrain part weights: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/393646-evo3-evo8- valvetrain-weight-comparison-inside.html 6-bolt fasteners: MF140202 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Flange M6 x 10 (2qty) MD012109 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Washer Assembled 6 x 16 (2qty) MF140202 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6 x 10 (4qty) MD167134 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (2qty) Flange M6 x 8 MD097012 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (17qty) Flange M6x10 MD131417 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6x16 MD040557 - Bolt, Flywheel (6qty) M12x22.5 MS401451 - Stud, M10 x 28 Cylinder Block MD065945 - Plug, Cylinder Block Screw (balance shaft) MS240211 - Bolt, Crankshaft Pulley Washer Assembled M8x25 (4qty) MD129350 - Bolt, Timing Belt Tensioner (2qty) M8x51 MD129354 - Bolt, Timing Belt Train M10x33 Happy Face Bolt MF140062 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M10x30 MF140225 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x20 (4qty) MF140227 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x25 MF140233 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x40 MF241266 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x65 MF241261 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x40 (2qty) MF241268 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x75 MF241264 - Bolt, Washer Assembled M8x55 MF140021 - Bolt, Cooling Water Line Flange M8x12 MF241256 - Bolt, M/T Clutch Slave Cylinder Washer Assembled M8x28 MD718549 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x130 (3qty) MF241319 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x70 (4qty) MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60 MD108474 - Bolt, Starter Flange M10x65 (2qty) MF140266 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x40 (2qty) MD740892 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x43.5 MF140471 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x65 MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60 MF140021 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x12 6-bolt Rear Main Seal Housing: MF140205 - Bolt, Cylinder Block Flange M6 x 16 (5qty) Rear Oil Seal Case MD040330 - Case, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal MD040332 - Oil Separator Crakshaft rear oil seal MF472403 - Pin Cylinder Block Dowel 6x14mm (2qty) MD183243 - Gasket, Rear Oil Seal Case 7-bolt Rear Main Seal Case MD172170* * oil separator ring only required on 6-bolt cars, same oil seal, different gasket. Throttle Body Gasket: 8903.1-9006.1 MD125822 1g 9006.2-9207.3 MD146399 1g (AC60-653) 9208.1-9405.1 MD194578 1g 9401.1-9907.2 MD180360 all 2g cars (MD1) Intake Elbow Gasket: 8903.1-9207.3 MD340327 1g 9208.1-9405.1 MD194827 1g 9401.1-9907.2 MD302262 all 2g cars MD307343 - OE Valve Stem Seals (16qty) MD087060 - OE Fuel Injector Insulator (4qty) MD614813 - OE Fuel Injector O-Ring (4qty) MD181032 - Gasket, Exhaust Manifold 1g/2g (standard) MD188995 - Gasket, 1g Intake Manifold MD192031 - Gasket, 2g Intake Manifold MD183808 - Gasket, Standard Composite Head Gasket 89-99 MD069879 - 1g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit MD177572 - 2g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit MD310606 - 1g/2g alternator belt 985mm MD186124 - 1g/2g alternator belt 980mm MD186784 - 1g/2g Valve Cover Gasket MD186785 - 1g/2g Spark Plug Well Gaskets (4qty) MN119896 - 1g tensioner arm MD170402 - 2g tensioner arm MD997608 - 1g thermostat kit MD315301 - 2g Thermostat Kit MD141510 - 1g Knock Sensor MD300670 - 2g Knock Sensor MD133273 - 1g/2g Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor MD091056 - 1g/2g Coolant Temperature Switch MD095656 - 6 bolt clutch cover plate MD191171 - 7 bolt clutch cover plate MD178430 - 1g Power Steering Belt MD310617 - 2g Power Steering Belt MD311638 - Oil filter cap gasket MD343564 - Oil Seal, Crankshaft Rear MD030764 - O-ring, Cooling Water Pipe 33.4mm MD375091 - EVO 8 Rocker Arm