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6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts

I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last part is happy. Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old 4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless they've got something to prove. I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am doing here. It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals, pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a 6-bolt block. This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the "Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters, rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets, seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will probably get its very own video just like the front case. As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone. For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news... The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus. There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday. Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has grown, and I feel the need to give back.


 


More Videos...


6&7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild
Here we disassemble, clean, inspect and rebuild both popular 4g63 front cases. This is not difficult, you just need to know what to look for. Something else that happens in this video is the analysis of one of the factors that caused my 7-bolt engine to fail. It wasn't the only cause, and we'll talk about that later, but left to its own devices and without the other contributing factors, it would have been the only cause.





Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is how you do it. Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1 compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined, non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This. 5 variables. V1 Swept Volume V2 Deck Volume V3 Piston-to-deck clearance V4 Piston dish cc's V5 Head combustion chamber cc's The ratio math: V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC The ratio is... (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) or BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy. Here are your magic numbers: 0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth 16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch. If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's. Quartering pi lets you use the calculation: BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder instead of... π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive you of that practice? Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do this. Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes poops gold nuggets. PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.





lancer evo build 4g63





Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why... is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and they're all defeated here. The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same. I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on Jafromobile. Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those specifications without additional hardware or without causing a catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process. It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206 should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist pins. Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its peak performance.





Colt Driveshaft Install Part 3/3
It's official! As of this video, all of the drive wheels are connected and the cosmetics on this stage of the project are done. The patching and grinding took me a week to complete, as I only had an hour or so each night to work on it. I have been working on other projects behind the scenes as well, but right in the middle of all this I was hit with the worst case of the Flu I've ever experienced. It was debilitating. You can still hear it in my voiceover weeks later and I'm still not 100%. ...then the holidays, and then the time-sensitive parts of this project began. For a while it was starting to feel like this would never get done, but I have a great sense of accomplishment at the moment. I hope to keep that momentum on what's to come in 2013. It's at this point where the Colt isn't forced to occupy my garage any longer, and after a good cleaning, I have some awesome stuff in the works! I hope to increase the channel's production for 2013 with (unlike a 4th video on this topic) stuff that people really want to see here on Jafromobile! Happy New Year 'tubes!





4g63 Timing Belt Parts
I don't care which DOHC 4g63 you've got. This is the video for you. All the parts and tools necessary to do the job right, right here. I know some people will ask about aftermarket timing kits. I'm not a fan. There are some things you can not skimp on. IMO, anyone using aftermarket parts on an interference engine have put the cart in front of the horse. Interference engines are engines whose pistons and valves share the same space at different parts of the strokes. If the timing belt (which is responsible for preventing them from doing that at the same time) breaks, or a pulley seizes up, then what follows goes something like this... "Hi piston, I'm valve", valve said. "Oh hey there, valve... Who's your friend that I just stepped on there?", said the piston to the valve. "Oh, her? That's my wife, and now she's a little bent out of shape now.", said valve. "I brought my whole crew, and they're next door introducing themselves to the rest of your friends.", piston uttered matter-of-factly. "So I hear. It sounds like they're done already.", said valve. "Yep, I'm afraid we are, too. Sorry about your wife there..." Aside from damage to pistons and valves, it can crack guides, damage rods and wrist pins, crank bearings, you name it. Worst case is when the valve face breaks off and chews up the cylinder head. No valve job will ever fix that. Use factory parts for your engine timing. MD326059 - OE 4g63 Timing Belt MD182295 - OE 4g63 Balance Belt MD972052 - 1g water pump MD972050 - 2g water pump MD129355 - Happy Face Pulley MD156604 - Timing Idler Pulley Water pump bolts: 1g 1x MF140029 1x MF140238 1x MF140026 1x Mf140028 1x MF140022 2g 1x MF140027 2x MF140026 1x MF140238 1x MF140022 Timing tensioners: prod. date MD164533 - 8904.3 - 9204.3 MD308586 - 9205.1 - 9405.1 MD308587 - 9401.1 - 9508.2 MD308086 - 9508.3 + 9999.9 Balance belt tensioner pulley: MD115976 - all 1g MD192068 - 95-97.5 MD352473 - 97.5-99





Hyundai Assembly 5 - Fighting The Valve Clearance
In previous videos I showed the 2 factors that really need to be scrutinized. Valve clearance and how you degree your camshafts. Of course we got sidetracked with plenty of other tips and tricks but I wanted to upload this video to illustrate that the process really isn't as easy as the animations, demonstrations and explanations make it look. The reasoning is sound, but the work to execute it can be very tedious. Setting up the valvetrain on this engine was very tedious. I say "was" because following this video, we can put that whole topic to bed. This is what it took. Not many people have the patience to deal with this, and I wanted to showcase here for those who are at the peak of their frustration with their builds. This kind of stuff can happen to anyone. Let my pain and suffering help you not feel so all alone. My apologies for the lack of new groundbreaking technical info. It's not a complicated task to install ARP head studs, and that was my plot twist. There are a couple of hurdles you may encounter depending on the production year of your engine, but they're well illustrated in this video. I'm not sure if their installation warrants a video all unto itself, but if you feel it does, speak up because I have 3 more engines to build. I can still do it. I just wanted to demonstrate that progress is being made on this, and despite the long breaks between uploads, a LOT is going on behind the scenes. This was 20 hours of repetitive work and I hope it's at least mildly entertaining. For me, this was the most boring video I've ever edited here because I had to re-live the same steps so many times, over and over again. I could very easily have inserted an hour of it in the wrong place and nobody would ever have known because it all looks the same. The text overlays are there only so you can be aware of what's different. A voiceover would have been pointless because the techniques illustrated are discussed ad-nauseum in the Cylinder Head 205 and 206 videos. The valve cover gasket installation process was covered in "Valve Cover Modification and Polishing", and the discussion about compression ratios is explained in "Calculate Your Compression Ratio". If you like the job the parts washer did, check out my DIY parts washer video. ;) Cylinder Head 205 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbWWCKPuZG4 Cylinder Head 206 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4s2X3VUwADA Valve Cover Modification and Polishing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiIi9EljLSk Calculate Your Compression Ratio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWze92nt9OU





Colt Driveshaft Install Part 1/3
There's information in the description if you feel lost. Audio loops provided with ownership rights by RojoDelChocolate. What you're witnessing here is the process of installing a driveshaft into a car that didn't previously have one. The Colt's transmission tunnel modification in the previous video was a pre-requisite elective procedure I performed that could really make this video a part 2 except that it isn't mandatory for installing a driveshaft. It just seems to fit better in my opinion. I felt it would make installing a large Exhaust easier than if I hadn't done it, I want it to be easily serviceable, and I'm building this car as if my life depends on it because it does. I had to extend the tunnel under the car because there was nothing to weld the carrier bearing mount to. It lined up directly in the center of the rear seat seam. Once positioned correctly, I welded it securely in place where it will stay. I'm not finished making it water-tight or pretty, that will likely be in part 2. I mentioned I was trying to get all these parts in place to measure how much I would cut from the driveshaft while having it shortened. That takes us to the front carrier bearing mount. That thing didn't want to fit up in the tunnel at all. Totally different shape. I ended up cutting off the majority of its sides to get 2 flat(-ish) surfaces, and fabricated a couple of pieces that DID fit the tunnel so I could weld it all in place. Those are the pieces I drop on the ground at the end of the video. You'll notice I didn't weld it in place. I tacked the front carrier bearing in position with some scrap pieces after getting all my pinion angle measurements so that I could install the front shaft and take measurements. Right now it's just a place-holder. Once I get the driveshaft back from shortening it, I'll install it and THEN weld the carrier bearing in place so if there's any variation in length from what I need, I can shift things around and make it work. About that front shaft. The way I got my measurement was by welding a piece of straight sharp and pointy steel to the tunnel in the middle of where the front shaft would be, installed the front shaft with the yoke attached into the transfer case and scratched a line on the shaft. Then I had to remove and install the same dang u-joint because I didn't have another good one to use. I bent 3 of the old one's caps removing them. :\ Sucked, but I digress... After installing the front shaft onto the rest of the driveshaft, I raised it in place and scratched a second line in it. Those lines represent the amount of material that must be cut and removed from the shaft. The driveshaft I used for this is from a 92.5 6-bolt/4-bolt car. Forgive me for using that chassis as a donor for this project. Oh, and the GVR-4, and the 2 Expo LRV's, and the Galant. Oh, I left out the Plymouth laser. You get the idea. Pro Tip: The driveshaft shop only wanted to know the distance between the u-joint bore centers on the outer flanges. They didn't care how much I wanted removed (from a shaft they could measure themselves). They also weren't happy about converting 3.15" from decimals to fractions. Take it easy on these ol' guys, they're good at what they do within an 1/8 of an inch. In the bonus round I made the e-brake cables fit. I had to change a couple of things on the tunnel, but I love how it turned out. I wish I knew what the hell I'm doing. I'll seal it up, paint it and make it pretty in the next video when I rebuild the driveshaft, install it, weld in the front carrier bearing, etc... This video and description are long enough already. So was its production. 900 minutes of raw video in under 13. I hope you enjoyed it.





Colt Driveshaft Install Part 2/3
It cost me $55 to have my driveshaft shortened. They even painted it at that price. After rebuilding the Colt's driveshaft I clear up the process and complete its installation. I discuss fabricating the front carrier bearing mount and positioning it, illustrate pinion angles, and hit 2 points left out of the driveshaft series. Those two points being the grease volume in the Lobro boot and using Loctite during assembly. No fancy audio track this time. Rumor has it some people had trouble concentrating, and we're going to cover a lot of ground fast. It's also extremely difficult to generate 18 minute songs just to have them permanently get hung in YouTube's copyright arbitration. So this time it's just a detailed explanation of how this worked out for me. No distractions. The driveshaft was shortened as the final edits were being placed on the last video. I jumped right back into the garage to bring you the next 12 hours of footage in just under 18 minutes. There's no perfect recipe for an AWD Colt. Everyone bakes theirs a little different. I convicted myself to share its entire transformation and potentially my fiery death in it on YouTube. Hopefully not the latter. I just want to clear something up because I don't want a flame war about this again. I'm not here as a professional mechanic handing out diplomas. If someone learned anything from my experience, that's the reward in hanging out here. Anyone is welcome to disagree with my methods at any time, but I'm not going to argue or volley about this subject with anyone in 500 character comments unless it's constructive. If anyone wishes to complain about me breaking bolts loose by hitting my wrenches with a mini-sledge, you're welcome to simply explain a better method that worked for you on these parts. You can't fit sockets over the bolt heads or nuts so you can access them with impact wrenches or breaker bars. There's a carrier bearing tight up against the nut side, and the bolt heads rest against the lobro joint's metal boot cup which is not dimpled to allow access for a socket. If you strip out the 7mm allen-head portion of the bolt, you'll never be able to torque the bolts back down. If you use a torch there's a high probability of starting a grease fire. A grease fire isn't very easy to stop. Most people take apart a Lobro joint because the boot is ripped and grease is leaking out. You have fuel, you have air, don't add fire. No it's not good for your tools to hit them with a hammer, yes it's dangerous because wrenches can become airborne, but if you do this over a workbench and take precautions, it's extremely effective and you won't get hurt. I have little concern with a 12mm crescent wrench if it's all that's standing between me and having a 500hp AWD Colt. If you manage to break a wrench, they're still much cheaper to replace than a fire extinguisher. I received dozens of complaints about shop ethics, but this is an acceptable means of breaking bolts loose when all else fails. It's the nature of red thread locker. I figured it was better to explain this here in the comments so others will firstly understand why it's not the ideal method, but most of all why it's the least-dangerous method. You will injure yourself far worse if the jaws of your wrench spread and you smash your knuckles against something when it slips off. I respect the reasoning behind others' concern on this topic and I don't want anyone getting hurt either... so consider that your 12mm wrench may be expendable on this job, and proceed at your own risk. But the other thing I left out of the driveshaft series... make sure you have a fresh tube of red loctite handy. I thought I had mine before I started the job and it was hard as nails. You need red loctite on your Lobro bolts. I do indeed fail at important things from time to time. I'll be sure to do it on-video and make a public example of myself when I do so we can all learn from it.





COME Racing assembling the short block and more...
After machining everything you are ready to assemble the engine. A few hints on how to do certain checks to ensure everything goes together correctly. Measuring clearances, cam dial in, lifter preload setting etc.





Cylinder Head 102 - Hydro Test Valves
If you noticed a drop in compression on one cylinder, and pouring a cap of oil through the spark plug holes didn't fix it, then it's likely you experienced a leaky valve or a burnt valve seat. What this test does is show you where it was leaking. Typically it takes a valve job to repair, but this can also occur on a freshly-machined head if any work was done improperly or out-of-center. I'm using tap water for the test because both cylinder heads I'm testing will receive extensive machine work and cleaning before being re-used. If you were to do this test on a freshly-machined head, you'd want to use deionized water as it contains none of the salts (sodium, chlorine, etc...) that would leave deposits and corrode metal parts.





Сборка ДВС 4g63
Чувак в гараже собирает двигатель 4g63





Cylinder Head 206 - Valve Clearance (& LSA)
This video is the companion and continuation video for Cylinder Head 205. In Cylinder Head 205 we covered the tools and technique for setting valve timing versus the factory-recommended specifications. It didn't work, thus; this video. How do I know it didn't work? Watch this video. The reason this is a companion video is because anyone changing their valve timing must also CHECK their valve clearance or risk bending valves. If I can install aftermarket cams, then I have made significant changes to my valve clearance. If I move cam gears on an engine that was previously running, then I have made significant changes to my valve clearance. If I have milled my head or block, I have made significant changes to my valve clearance. If I have installed larger valves, I have made significant changes to my valve clearance. Mitsubishi doesn't build a whole lot of wiggle room into their valvetrains. They keep the valves pretty tight to maximize performance and a 4g63 IS an interference engine. Note that if you follow the recommendations in this video and damage your valvetrain that I am not responsible. Here I demonstrate all of the techniques to ensure that damage never occurs because these tests are performed PRIOR to the engine ever starting, and prove that clearance is adequate for THE PARTS I SHOW HERE ON CAMERA. There can be components installed in other rotating assemblies that require additional clearance to be built into your valve clearance such as aluminum rods, or other alloys employed in the casting and forging of rotating assembly parts and valves. I strongly urge you to check with those manufacturers for their recommendations regarding thermal expansion, stretch, bounce rocker gap or float prior to making any adjustments, and use this video only as a documentation of my experience. In other words, it's my opinion. What works in your engine will likely be very different from mine, but the tests and the math shown here will work the same with your build. To find your intake valve clearance... Add your intake valve opening degrees (btdc) to your intake valve closing degrees (abdc) to 180°. IO + IC + 180 = DURATION DURATION ÷ 2 = LOBE CENTERLINE LOBE CENTERLINE - IO = INSTALLED INTAKE CENTERLINE To find your Exhaust valve clearance... Add your Exhaust valve opening degrees (bbdc) to your intake valve closing degrees (atdc) to 180°. EO + EC + 180 = DURATION DURATION ÷ 2 = LOBE CENTERLINE LOBE CENTERLINE - EC = INSTALLED Exhaust CENTERLINE To get your Lobe Separation Angle, ADD your INSTALLED INTAKE CENTERLINE to your INSTALLED Exhaust CENTERLINE and divide that result by 2. Intake Centerline + Exhaust Centerline ÷ 2 = LSA Tight Lobe Separation Angles * MOVE TORQUE LOWER IN THE POWER BAND * INCREASE MAXIMUM TORQUE OUTPUT * INCREASE CYLINDER PRESSURE * INCREASE CRANKING COMPRESSION * INCREASE EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION * INCREASE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SCAVENGING EFFECT * SHORTEN YOUR POWER BAND * REDUCE IDLE VACUUM! * REDUCE IDLE STABILITY * INCREASE LIKELIHOOD OF KNOCK! * INCREASE OVERLAP * DECREASE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE! Wide Lobe Separation Angles * MOVE TORQUE HIGHER IN THE POWER BAND * DECREASE MAXIMUM TORQUE OUTPUT * LENGTHEN YOUR POWER BAND * DECREASE CYLINDER PRESSURE * DECREASE LIKELIHOOD OF KNOCK * DECREASE CRANKING COMPRESSION * DECREASE EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION * INCREASE IDLE VACUUM * IMPROVE IDLE STABILITY * DECREASE OVERLAP * DECREASE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SCAVENGING EFFECT * INCREASE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE There's more that I want to say about Lobe Separation Angle (LSA). If you're tuning a DOHC engine with cam gears, you're very lucky to go through all this trouble. The pushrod and SOHC crowd can't change their lobe separation angles without replacing their camshaft, and on many engines that means removing the cylinder heads. On a 4g63 with adjustable gears, you loosen the lock bolts, turn, lock it back down and you've adjusted your LSA. This is a luxury which if you've never had to build a SOHC or a pushrod engine and install camshafts that you take for granted. DOHC tuning permits the ability to alter the opening and closing events of the valves independently of one another and perfect the valve timing during tuning without having to completely remove and replace the valvetrain. What this also means is that the pushrod crowd needs to know and understand a lot more about their camshaft profiles prior to making their purchase as we [the DOHC crowd] do. They have to be on their A-game when they drop the coin on a new cam or else things get expensive really quick. Lobe separation angle says more about how camshafts behave than duration and lift, but all 3 should be carefully scrutinized when you're making that determination. Yes, I did actually animate my engine's valve timing exactly the way HKS said to set it up. Yes those are all actual photos of my parts. Yes that was the biggest Photoshop file I've ever created.





Sound of a 4g63 N/A Engine EUDSM Mitsubishi Eclipse 1g GS
It has a few modifications but it sounds stock. Ignore the Oilpressure Gauge, it is not connected ;)





2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission failure. This time I installed some new goodies... Tubular Exhaust Header Magnus Intake Manifold Magnus heat barrier gasket Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal -6AN turbo coolant lines ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners new timing belt new accessory belts ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts FIC -8AN fuel rail deleted breather port added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate new Chrysler coils





Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?




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charles, Engine: 2.3l, Turbos: gt3076 Tires: Bf goodridge kdw 235/35/18


2007 Mazda 6 Speed6: 12.620 @ 110.090
p057, Engine: stock, Turbos: gt3071 Tires: hankook ventus v12s 225/40/18


2006 Mazda 6 speed6: 12.624 @ 107.800
charles, Engine: 2.3 turbo, Turbos: gt3076 Tires: NITTO NEO GENS


2006 Mazda 6 Mazdaspeed 6: 12.655 @ 111.360
Anthony Pannone, Engine: stock, Turbos: GT3076R


2006 Mazda 6 Mazdaspeed6: 12.655 @ 111.750
Andrew Helm, Engine: stock block, Turbos: GT3071r Tires: Nitto NT555


2006 Mazda 6 mazdaspeed6: 12.850 @ 105.850
Michael, Engine: 2.3 disi turbo, Turbos: stock Tires: stock


2007 Mazda 6 Mazdaspeed6 GT: 12.896 @ 104.740
2nr, Turbos: stock


2006 Mazda 6 Mazdaspeed 6: 12.907 @ 106.750
superskaterxes, Engine: 2.3l MZR DISI, Turbos: k04


2006 Mazda 6 Mazdaspeed: 12.918 @ 103.460
Shawn C, Engine: 2.3 DISI, Turbos: Stock


2006 Mazda 6 Speed 6: 12.991 @ 107.780
jcgemt2003, Engine: 2.3, Turbos: stock


2006 Mazda 6 Speed 6: 13.017 @ 104.610
cm-jp1, Turbos: Stock k04


 


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