How To Replace The Fuel Spider/Fuel Pressure Regulator on a GM 4.3/5.7 V6/V8
I replace the fuel spider in my 1999 GMC Sierra 4.3 liter V6. The fuel spider also includes the fuel pressure regulator, which is another common point of failure.
If you have any questions just post a comment and I'll try to help. If you find the video helpful please remember to like/favorite it!
How to change a SPIDER INJECTOR on a Chevrolet V8
Amazon has spyder injectors for about $300
How to change a SPIDER INJECTOR on a Chevrolet V8
GM 4.3L V6 / 5.7L V8 - Fuel Spider Swap, SCPI to MPFI
Video of me swapping the fuel spider out of my vortec after it failed.
All the tools and tricks needed for the job are outlined in the video.
5/8'' Crows foot will be your best friend.
here were the symptoms:
Truck would start rough and require throttle to even out when warm. Would
usually cold start fine. This lasted for about 6 months, then it got to
where it would be so flooded it would run like shit and not even out. fuel
pressure regulator was dumping fuel out of itself and into the upper
intake; whenever the fuel pump turned off. I demonstrated this in the video
with the plenum off and the injectors plugged in.
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If your have a pre-2003 4.3L I highly recommend you replace your poppets
with the new multi port spider. Just about the best upgrade you could do.
Changed the plugs and wires as well and now get 19mpg (up from 16 with the
this video was a nightmare to edit (filmed back in august) and the audio
from the camera doesn't sound right
royalty free music tecknoaxe i think is how you spell his name......
Fix It Right! - Fuel Injection System Replacement
Fix It Right! - Fuel Injection System Replacement (S1E6)
Demonstrated on a 1999 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3L V6 Vortec 2WD.
In this video, we demonstrate the process of removing the stock fuel
injection assembly, and install an upgraded assembly that converts the
vehicle to full multiport fuel injection. This is a fairly straightforward
repair to resolve a common issue with the older CFI and "upgraded" CSFI
systems used on GM's Vortec engines: sticking poppet valves that dump raw
The stock fuel injection system for 4.3L V6 and 5.7L V8 GM Vortec engines
consists of a central injector housing containing either a sequencer (for
the older CFI design) or six injector solenoids (for the newer CSFI
redesign) and six tubes with a poppet valve on each tube end, each of which
are inserted into the intake manifold. The poppet valves are subject to
clogging from microscopic debris in the fuel, varnish buildup, etc. Once
one or more of them clog, the engine starts to run rough and mileage starts
to nosedive. Since the engine control computer will detect a rich condition
due to excess fuel consumption and will begin leaning out the engine to
compensate, watch for long fuel trims moving strongly negative if checking
the vehicle with a scanner capable of reading OBD-II datastreams.
The replacement fuel injection assembly is a new design, and instead of
using poppet valves and a single injector and sequencer manifold or central
bank of injectors, the new assembly replaces each poppet valve with a
miniature injector on each tube end. This design has a number of
advantages: improved throttle response since there's no transit time for
pressurized fuel to travel down the individual injector lines, improved
fuel economy (not the least of which is from not constantly dripping fuel),
increased horsepower due to improved
fuel delivery efficiency, and increased reliability since the injectors
have a more forceful open/close action. Generally speaking, customers that
have had this procedure performed had positive opinions on their vehicle's
IMPORTANT NOTE: Please read the disclaimer text at the start of the video
before attempting anything shown therein. Take your time, take care, and be
About the "Fix It Right!" video series:
"Fix It Right!" is a series of how-to videos intended to give
do-it-yourselfers basic instructions on proper vehicle repair and
maintenance. All of our videos show real repairs being performed on real
vehicles by real technicians in a real auto shop. (Repairs are filmed and
shown with the permission of the vehicles' owners.) Although there may be
more than one way to perform any particular repair (and in many cases there
are lots of ways!) we try to focus on the methods that will be safest and
most expedient for DIYers with limited access to tooling and equipment.
We will also occasionally be showing repair processes that are too complex
or dangerous for DIY, or require specialized tooling, expertise, equipment,
and/or certifications. Those episodes will highlight the importance of
hiring a professional auto technician for tasks that are not DIY-friendly,
and demonstrate why such tasks are best left to professionals.
Please click "like" on this video, as it encourages us to make more! If you
find this video helpful, we'd also appreciate it if you "favorite" it as
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DIY Fuel Injector Cleaning & Repair
This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have
a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than
$40. The BG products were donated to the cause.
The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold
type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a
peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with
only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer
explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its
operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you
don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your
expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't
be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't
try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you
open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can
throw at it.
I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally
cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary.
In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to
know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even
greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to
help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used
parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap,
demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't
even know what they were looking at.
This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and
how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new
set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good
Chev / GMC Misfire, poppet injector diagnosis, troubleshooting and replacement
http://www.wellsve.com/ This video demonstrates how to diagnose a sticky
poppet injector utilizing scan tool and 5 gas techniques. The upper and
lower intake are removed and replaced. The distributor cam sensor retard is
re-synced using a scan tool. The re-sync also needs to be performed at
times when a P0340 trouble code sets.
"The information presented in this program is based on a specific
diagnostic case and might not directly apply to the vehicle you are
repairing. We do not represent or warrant that the information presented
is complete or error free. Please take all safety precautions. We
disclaim any and all liability for losses, injuries or damages in
connection with your repair."
Vortec Throttle Body Modification 5.7 and 4.3
Easy Throttle body modification that increases throttle response and Horse
Power . This is for all 5.7 5.0 and 4.3 Vortecs.
Fuel pressure regulator repair blazer bravada jimmy s10 sonoma 4.3l
if the fuel pressure regulater is leaking in yours replace it, change the
oil right after. if it was leaking bad then there will be gas in the
crankcase oil. and WILL cause rod bearing failure if not caught in time.
over time the gas will leak down the intake passages and into the
combustion chamber leaking past the piston rings then into the oil.
Solving Cold Start Problems 1999 GMC Jimmy -EricTheCarGuy
A friend of mine brought me this 1999 GMC Jimmy stating that they were
having trouble starting the truck when it got cold outside. Of course the
day they brought it to me it wasn't cold. Because of that, I had to look
for possible causes of the problem. In this video I cover the basics of
what I check in a situation like this. I did find something, be sure to
watch the video to see what I found. Here's some useful links for you.
Looking Into The Horses Mouth: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTKNueB8YXo
Forum discussion about this video:
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com
Information on Premium Membership:
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee
against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of
this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage
or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this
video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power
tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment,
blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment
seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of
EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any
express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any
injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools,
equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole
responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
4.3L/5.7L Vortec V6/V8 | Throttle Body Blade Mod | 262/350ci
Easy free way to gain a noticeably better throttle response. Does not gain
companies claim. Please read description. Thanks.
The mod is to remove the diffuser / restrictor off the bottom of the blade
to increase airflow into the engine. free alternative to a $40 cfm tech
Make sure you reset the computer (reset by disconnecting battery)
Took me about an hour from start to finish
please don't tell me that my front 2 cylinders will lean out. there is no
need to restrict the EGR due to this mod....
the truck is a 1999 GMC Sirra RCSB
4.3L Vortec V6 SCPI soon to be MP
cat back straights.
Filmed with my iPhone.
Change a Fuel Pressure Regulator
This is a how to video on how to change a fuel pressure regulator on a 96
LT1 Corvette. This is a similar process for almost all cars. This will be
identical to all LT1s and LT4s.
This will take 30min max and you will need:
-small flat head screw driver
-5/16 ratchet or wrench (for battery terminal)
-various sized star torx wrenches
-spray the torx bolts with "liquid wrench" or some other nut remover to
make it easier to remove the bolts.
-start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.
-relieve fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge or carefully push a screw
driver in the fuel pressure valve.
- Unscrew and remove the torx bolt that holds the fuel lines down. (the
fuel line that goes to the FPR should be loose now)
-Unscrew the torx bolt that holds down the fuel pressure regulator (it
screws into the fuel rail).
-Have a plastic container under the FPR so that excess fuel can fall into
it and not on your engine.
-Remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail
-Unclip the fuel line from the FPR and now it should be completely removed
-Add motor oil to the o-rings that are on the FPR
-Attach the new FPR to the fuel rail first
-Attach the FPR to the fuel line and reset the clip
- Screw down the fuel line torx bolt
-make sure you let the area air out so there are no fumes then attach the
negative battery terminal
-start the engine and check for leaks
You are done! a $300 Job done for $50
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Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, it cannot guarantee against
unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this
information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury
incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working with power tools,
automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt
instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or
implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no
information contained in this video shall create any express or implied
warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss
that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the
information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user
and not ChrisFix.
How To Clean The EGR Valve On A GMC Safari Vortec V6 Engine
Here is how to clean the EGR (Exhaust
gas recirculation) valve on a GMC Safari Vortec V6 engine. If your engine
started running really rough all of a sudden, your EGR valve may be stuck
open. It's easy to remove and clean up. It is a good idea to install an
EGR valve gasket with a filter in it to prevent future carbon buildup.
Here is a link to a video I made showing the gasket: