Here is another time lapse vid showing me removing the 7 bolt head from my 6 bolt engine in my 1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. I had to remove it this time because of a bent valve. I worked in the comfort of my garage this time instead of the driveway because it was probably 10° or 20° outside.
The video does cut before i get the head off, and that is only because I was tired of changing batteries and SD cards in the camera. If you don't beleive I got the head off, just watch my previous head removal vid.
Cylinder Head 101 - Remove Cams Rockers & Lifters
Going through a 4g63 Cylinder Head? You're on the right channel. I don't
know how many parts there will be to this series, I suppose it could go on
forever... We all have different ways of doing it, and I'm going to show
This video won't put a dent in most people's grey matter outside of
entertainment value... but I tried to keep it fun. I'd like to leave at
least a small dent. But no music in these because they're going to cover a
lot of ground and fast. I'm not doing anything difficult. This part of
this job really isn't. Most everybody pays someone else to do the
complicated stuff for them, and those people do it every day so it's still
easy unless you earn your money to pay for it from difficult and degrading
But this video's about getting started. There's some safety and
organization tips to be aware of before diving in. Stuff that could help
people whether or not they even own a Mitsubishi. Everything else is in
The Story of my Talon Tsi
I purchased a 95 eagle talon tsi awd in the summer of 2009 after graduating
High school. I did some minor modifications, bigger injectors, 14b turbo, 20lbs of Boost, safc tuning, pulled like a sombish.
Then disaster struck, I threw a rod out my stock block. So 6 bolt swap time
it is. Kept every thing stock for a stock rebuild. My intentions are cheap
and reliable. Cleaned all engine components, new wiseco rings, honed block,
cometic hg, arp headstuds, oem 6 bolt pistons and rods. Gonna be running
14b for the break in period then ill slap the 18g on and get a tune.
My Galant and the process of rebuilding its engine
White 1997 Eagle Talon TSI FWD dsm eclipse 1/4 mile
email@example.com, running only 22psi on E85, in the process of being tuned.
dsm, 1/4 mile, e85, turbo, Boost, talon, ecipse, 1997, 2g, dsmlink, dd,
fwd, TRE transmission, stock intake manifold & throttle body, long route
piping, 1g bov, agp L2R turbo, FIC
1150cc fuel injectors, megan racing coilovers, 6 bolt weisco 8.3:1 pistons,
eagle rods, stock crank, built and ported 2g head, BC 272cams, FMIC, full
interrior daily driven street car, 29/34mpg on e85 all building and tuning
done by myself, work in progress.
0-60mph Eagle Talon TSI AWD
My first 2 0-60 pulls when I was tuning the car getting ready for the
track. Don't want to ruin the surprise for the numbers at the track so you
only get first 2 pulls.
Talon TSI AWD engine removal
Thank you Youtube for taking the song out of my video. If you search
"prodigy fire starter" you will find several videos that allegedly
"infringe on copyright laws" yet you seem to leave those up.
Part 1 in a series documenting the progress of my 95 Talon TSI AWD I am
shooting for a 10 second street car, it will be put on a diet next I think.
stay tuned and feel free to ask questions.
Pulling the GSX motor (1080 HD)
I've done this video before. Not in HD, but this time I'm leaving you
without an audio track to drown out what I'm doing. In previous videos I
removed the transmission separately. Not this time. This is how you pick
it out in one piece. No subtitles to read or block the view. Those of you
looking for granular info about this video will find it here.
In order to remove a 4g63 AWD drivetrain, you'll need to disconnect the
following components... not necessarily in this order... and my car isn't
exactly stock, but this is what you're after. Some things you can leave
connected, especially if they're stock, but I removed them for safety
reasons and because I routed some modified items differently. The timeline
is listed here for your convenience.
[off-camera] Remove the battery and support the car on jackstands.
1:14 Drain oil
1:20 Drain gear oil, ATF if you're an automatic.
1:28 remove radiator cap
1:31 Drain coolant
1:34 Remove radiator brackets, and coolant overflow system
1:40 Remove breather hoses.
1:42 Remove intake pipe
1:44 Remove throttle linkage bracket from intake manifold
1:50 Disconnect the fuel rail
1:54 Remove upper Intercooler
1:58 Remove upper and lower radiator hoses
2:02 Remove coil-on-plug plate [if equipped] to prevent damage.
2:07 Remove cruise control motor [if equipped] for clearance
2:13 Remove catch can
2:15 Remove throttle linkage from throttle body
2:18 Remove the hood
2:25 un-bolt cruise control linkage box [if equipped]
2:29 un-bolt AC hose from fender
2:31 Remove power steering bracket (5 bolts and it free's up the pump*)
*leave the pump connected.
2:40 Remove Dynatek ARC-2 ignition amplifier box [if equipped]
2:46 Un-plug injectors, cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, AC harness,
transistor pack, knock sensor, coil pack harness, TPS sensor, idle switch
[if equipped], MAP sensor harness, o2 sensor harness, alternator connector,
charge wire, oil pressure sensors, power steering switch and radiator fans
2:54 Remove power steering cooler brackets if they're in your way.
2:57 Remove radiator
3:00 Remove lowest coolant hose [in my case the turbo fitting] so the rest of the coolant will
3:03 Remove coolant sensor wires and fan switch
3:06 Remove external oil cooler lines [if equipped]
3:16 Remove turbo oil feed line at
lowest point so the rest of the oil drains.
3:20 Remove transmission linkage
3:25 Remove shifter cables from bracket
3:29 Remove clutch slave and zip-tie it so it doesn't come apart and leak.
3:36 Remove downpipe flange bolts and gasket
3:42 Remove wheels, and axles*.
* Watch my transmission series for detailed info on this process if you get
** Put all the suspension stuff back together so you can put the car down.
*** Put the washer and axle nuts back on the axles after removing them.
5:00 Loosen the alternator belt [and AC belt if equipped]
5:04 Remove the crank pulley for clearance
5:09 Remove the transfer case
5:27 Remove the starter bolts and stuff the starter out of your way*.
*note the ground wire.
5:37 Remove the heater hoses
5:48 Attach your engine hoist brackets... DON'T LOSE THESE THINGS if you
remove them like I do.
6:19 Protect your valve cover from damage with the chains and hoist.
6:31 Remove the three lower bracket bolts from the rear roll-stop mount
6:49 Remove all the bolts from the front roll-stop mount
6:54 Remove the lower crossmember and torque plate
7:06 Put the wheels back on and put the car on the ground.
7:25 Connect the hoist and put tension on it to support the engine's
7:35 Remove the transmission mount
7:43 Remove the transmission mount bracket
7:46 Remove the reverse switch to prevent damaging it
7:52 Remove the timing-side engine mount.
8:03 Slightly lower the engine and remove the vacuum lines and brake Booster hose from the back of the
8:12 Remove the ground wire from the back of the motor
8:17 Remove the last thing you overlooked.
8:30 Remove the engine and transmission in one piece.
The crank pulley, transmission mount bracket, and reverse switch removal
allows you more wiggle room without damaging either those parts or
scratching up the chassis. The trans mount bracket loves to get caught on
the passenger-side brake lines. The speed sensor is protected by the rear
motor mount bracket, so you can leave it in place.
I replaced my AC compressor during the transmission replacement, but never
charged the system. If you have working AC, un-bolt the compressor and
hang it from a bolt on the firewall using heavy-gauge wire. That way you
don't have to evacuate the refrigerant and drive up the cost of repairing
your car with an AC service, filter-drier and expansion tube. Don't let it
hang from the lines because they can leak or even break.