This is part one of a video tutorial on how to change your fork seals. These forks are from my 2001 Honda CBR600F4i.
**NOTE** Not shown in the video is the filling of the forks with oil. You will need Honda SS3 Suspension Fluid or an equivalent 10W fork oil from another brand. You need to have the SAME EXACT LEVEL in both forks. Also, you need to bleed the dampening rods...you do this by pouring a quarter or so of the fork oil necessary, then pumping the rod several times until it has a lot of resistance...then you pour in the rest.
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb5J0zRqcvc
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQrhY8r0q60
Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcgMafPtXxQ
DIY: Fork Seals Made Easy!
Dr. Dirt's Step-By-Step Fork Seal Swap.
Leaky fork seals are, for lack of a better description, a royal pain in the
neck. The most common ailment to plague front suspension, a leaky fork seal
can ruin your day by affecting your bike's handling, covering your front
brake pads in oil and generally just making a total mess of things. Most of
the time a leaky fork seal is the result of dirt inside of the seal, but it
can also be caused by a nick or ding in the fork tube from an impact with a
rock or stick. But no matter what the cause, a weeping fork seal needs to
be fixed, and oftentimes that means tearing into the suspension and
changing the seal out. Fortunately, this isn't as difficult as you may
Dirt Rider tech guru Scot Gustafson (the man behind the Dr. Dirt tech
stories here on www.dirtrider.com) insists that changing afork seal is easy
enough for most riders to do in their own garage. To help prove his point,
we filmed Scot changing a fork seal in the Dirt Rider tech center and
explaining step-by-step how he completes this job. You might want to
bookmark this video for reference because someday, no matter if you ride
motocross or off-road, you're going to need to address this issue!
If you have any additional questions, please feel free to email Dr. Dirt at
email@example.com, subject: Dr. Dirt. Enjoy!
Part 2 - How To Change - Changing Fork Seals Fork Seal Oil The Easy Way Cruiser Royal Star Yamaha
How to change motorbike cruiser forks seals and oil the easy way. I
couldn't change the fork seals on my bike the normal way by pulling them
completely apart as they just would not come apart for me. So I tried it
the easy way by using hydraulic pressure and pushing the seal out. This
worked like a charm and each fork seal was changed in 60 or so minutes.
This should be practically the same job for most cruiser forks and many
others. The only draw back with this method is that you cant examine the
internal parts of the fork.
CB550 Fork Seals
How to remove your CB550 Forks to replace you leaky Fork Seals.
Tory's Custom F4i 600
I work at Taylor Collision Center and this is where the transformation took
its place. The Ninja was also disassembled and painted here as well. Troy
is in the Army and he wanted us to PAINT his bike and make it look sharp.
Troy had no idea that when he would see it again that it would look like
this. We couldn't figure out if it looked more like CARBON FIBER, SNAKE
SKIN, OR THE DIGITAL ARMY UNIFORMS. To me it looks like the motorcycle
version of the TRANSFORMER - BUMBLE BEE, either way it is completely custom
and is clearly a one of a kind Sport Bike. IT'S AN 02 CBR F4i
KLR 650 Fork Service Part 1
Tools you'll need:
10 mm socket
10 mm Allen head wrench
19 mm socket
24 mm socket
24 mm nut (rear axle nut works)
Remove the front wheel. ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqp65pSeXMc )
Remove the reflectors from the forks (10 mm).
Remove the brake caliper. It is held on by two 6 mm Allen head bolts. Once
the brake is free of the fork, make sure to support it on something so it's
not hanging by the hose.
(A little out of order): Equalize the air pressure (press the valve in the
center of the fork cap). Use a 19 mm socket and loosen the fork caps.
For each fork, there are four 12 mm nuts and bolts holding the forks in the
triple tree - two on the bottom and two on the top. Loosen those (you
shouldn't need to take them out). Pull the fork out. You may need to wiggle
it around a bit and / or twist it.
Remove the fork boots. There's a "hose clamp" holding them on, use a
You have two options for draining the oil: use the oil drain near the
bottom of the outer fork tube or remove the fork cap (careful - the spring
is under tension) and dump the oil out.
After the oil is satisfactorily drained out, use an extension and a 24 mm
nut to remove the fork dampener. I found it works well (if using the axle
nut) if you put the crown part of the nut in the socket, hold the nut,
socket, and extension upright (nut on top), and insert into the upside-down
fork. This way, the nut doesn't fall out. Invert the fork and extension.
Twist the extension - the nut should drop into place in the damper. Now use
a 10 mm Allen head on the bolt on the bottom of the fork and a ratchet on
the extension sticking out the top of the fork tube. Twist... hard. As the
dampener bolt comes out, there will probably be more oil that comes with
it. Plan accordingly. Once the bolt is out, tilt the fork assembly
upside-down and catch the dampener as it comes falling out.
Remove the stop ring spring (hold the seals in place on the top of the
outer fork tube).
Slide the fork back and forth to make sure that the surfaces are happy.
Binding = unhappy fork tube(s). Then pull the two forks tubes apart. Use
the inner tube (the shiny one) as a "hammer" and jolt it out from the outer
Invert the outer fork tube and catch the valve and collar.
Remove the oil seal, dust seal, and backup ring over the top of the tube.
Remove the inner tube bushing over the bottom of the fork with a small
Things NOT to remove: the ring from the fork dampener, the ring from the
valve, and anything inside the bottom end of the inner fork tube.
Clean all the parts.
If your bushings are missing their coatings, replace them. Make sure that
the two holes in the fork dampener are clear of debris.
Reassembly: lubricate all parts with fork oil before replacing.
Install the small drain screw in the bottom of the outer fork tube. Install
the slide bushing onto the bottom end of the inner fork tube. Only open it
enough to get it over the end of the tube. Seat the bushing in the grove in
Put the dampener spring back on the dampener and insert both into the inner
tube so the small end of the dampener sticks out the bottom end of the fork
(See "Part 2" for the rest of the procedure.)
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