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MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 1996 Acura Integra - etrailer.com

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Magnaflow-install-1996-acura-Integra.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1996 Acura Integra we are going to install MagnaFlow Exhaust part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance. First off we will give you a sound test of the original Exhaust on there. Then we can compare it to the new one once we have it installed. First we will show you what is going to get replaced in our Exhaust system. Basically this is what is called a Cat-back or from the catalytic converter on back to the tailpipe. This is our converter right here and at this flange point we are going to unbolt right here and from here on back is going to get removed from the vehicle. On the bolts themselves we sprayed down with some penetrate and let it sit for at least an hour or so. The nut on the top is going to be a different size nut also. Leave that alone for now. 00:50 If these break we do not really care because this is all getting replaced anyway. Get this apart. Next spray down the rubber hangers with some more lubricant and we will pry them off. We do not want to damage the rubber hangers because those are going to get reused. The same thing is going to happen again with the muffler. Now if these hangers are already damaged from normal wear and tear you probably want to just replace them and this is going to be the best time to do it now. Now we have got our Exhaust completely off. What we are going to do is take any leftover hangers that had stayed with the Exhaust and remove those and put them back into the factory locations. 01:35 We are going to start installing new parts working our way from front to rear. We are going to slide on a new part. We are going to reuse the original factory nuts. We are just going to start one and get it started and hold everything into place and then we will slide on the rubber hangers. We will run all of these bolts down evenly and then give them a final torque. Working with the next section is going to S curve. Install the clamp, slide it on, and slide this on to the resonator pipe that we just installed. This does not really have anything to support it but the other half so we are going to slide it on for now. The approximate location of the original. Install the muffler and tailpipe and slide that into place. We will hook these up to the rubber hangers by the bumper. Put the S pipe next to the tailpipe itself. There is a little gasket that will go on here. Slide it into position and run the bolts through. This is hardware that does come with the kit and install the flange nuts. 03:28 Position the pipes the way that we want it and make sure it is not rattling up against anything that we do not want it to. Then once we have it the way we want it we will snug down the connections. The last thing we will do is tighten down the band clamp and that requires a specific torque range that is provided in the instructions. With our Exhaust fully installed the only thing we need to do now is turn the engine on and see what we get for sound. At about 20 to 50 miles, you probably want to go back underneath the vehicle again and make sure all of the fasteners are still tight. That sounds pretty good. There you have it for part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust.


 


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Magnaflow Exhaust Installation - 2005 Infiniti G35 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-Exhaust-2005-infinti-g35-coupe.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to be installing Magnaflow Performance Exhaust system part number 16641on a 2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe. Before we get started we want to go ahead and disconnect the negative terminal off the battery. The battery is located behind this panel here on the upper left-hand side of the engine compartment. This going to allow the computer to reset so when we get the new Exhaust system on it will reconfigure itself to the new Exhaust. And we will go underneath the vehicle and start disconnecting the old Exhaust. This is a Cat Black system so we will be moving the Exhaust tips all the way up to the disconnect point behind the catalytic converter. So we need to unbolt the flange here from these two bolts and we are also going to need to remove the Exhaust off all its hangers as well. The rubber hangers we are going to be using are located right here, right here, right here, and right here. Using a spray lubricant on the rubber hangers will make the removal of those a lot easier. You are going to want to save the rubber hangers because we will be reusing those for the re-installation. And then also here just forward of the main Exhaust you want to disconnect the ground wire off of the post here. We can go ahead and start disassembling it. I defiantly recommend spraying down all the bolts first with a lubricant like a WD40 because these will likely be rusted. This will help ease the removal of the nuts. Next we are going to go to the flange just rear of the Exhaust and go ahead and remove the ground strap. Okay now we will remove the Exhaust from all of the hangers. With all the rubber hangers removed you can go ahead and take the Exhaust system out. The first piece we are going to go ahead and put in place is the one nearest the catalytic converter. Just going to be bolted to the flange, you want to make sure you have the gasket in place here. We do want to make sure the slight bend here goes toward the driver side. We want to leave everything fairly loose for the time being until we get it all installed and then we can tighten it all down. Okay next we are going to put the second inlet piece in. You want the side with the rubber hanger to be facing the drivers side, it is going to attach right here. Then we are going to take one of the clamps that are provided with the installation kit and slide it over the inlet tube here over the end with the notches cut out of it. Go ahead and take that, and slide it over, slide it all the way in. All right go ahead and attach it to the rubber hanger here. Then we slide the clamp over and again we are just going to loosely install it for the time being. What I am going to do is manipulate it in and out of the inlet tube until that rubber hanger is facing straight up and down. Before I put the muffler on I am actually going to pre-install the clamp over this inlet tube because once the muffler is in place it is going to be tough to manipulate around there. Then we are going to go ahead and install the muffler itself. In preparation I went ahead and in the area where the muffler goes I went ahead and put all of the the rubber hangers back on the vehicle itself. Now that I have the muffler adjusted and properly into place I can go ahead and install our other clamp. I am going to go ahead and install with the threads on the upper side on each of them. And with that loosely installed I can go ahead and start tightening everything down. When tightening down you want to start with the forward most bolts and work your way rearward. Last thing you want to do is go ahead and re-secure our grounding strap. To do that we are just going to be using the protruding threads from our clamp here at the rear most attaching point. Just slide that over and re-install it with the lock nut that is provided with the installation kit. With the grounding strap on again you just want to make sure all of our hangers are secure and our installation will be complete. This Exhaust system was designed to make the car sound louder. Here is how it sounded before. And here is how it sounds now. And that will conclude the installation of part number 16641 on a 2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe.





MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/p-MF16674.html Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 we are going to be installing Magnaflow Exhaust system part number MF16674. The Magnaflow Exhaust system is going to allow us to replace our factory Exhaust from just rearward catalytic converters all the way to the Exhaust tips. First thing we are going to need to do is remove the stock system.





Magnaflow Exhuast Installation - 2006 Ford F150 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-Exhaust-system-Ford-F150.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to install part number 16612 from Magnaflow performance Exhaust. This is a catalytic converter on back of the Exhaust system placement for the stock Exhaust. Our first step is to go ahead and look over into the original Exhaust system. Make sure you can get the bolts loosened to make the connections up front. Then you will want to get yourself an idea on how to take off the Exhaust. What you want to do is see how the rods go into the hangers here. It looks like the all point ends on all of them are towards the front. So we want to take them off and shove them towards the axle. And since the rest of this pipe is going out back, it might be a good idea to cut this in half. So you can take this pipe off first and push it backwards. Then have room to pull the Exhaust muffler here backwards off the extension pipe coming off of the catalytic converter. That way we can take pieces off a lot easier then with just wrestling with one hole piece. It is a good idea to go ahead and spray down anything rusted so that we can get it apart a little easier. We will let it set there for a few minutes and then we will go ahead and break it loose. All you have to do is basically loosen this clamp up and then take a screw driver or something and kind of pull it apart a little bit to give it some extra wiggle room to pull out the old Exhaust. Next we are going to go ahead and make the cut right here so we can separate the 2 halves. Next we can go ahead and remove this tail pipe here. It would be a good idea to spray down the hanger here to help ease pulling it out. We will do the same thing for the muffler here. Spray down the hangers. And then, we will have to wrestle it off, going towards the axle. You might have to use some prying against the frame or a body component to get some pressure going that way because it is a tight fit. Next what we will do is go ahead and unbolt the rubber isolators from the frame to give us a little more wiggle room to get the Exhaust off. Next we can go ahead and install the original hangers back into place. Alright, now we can start installing the new Exhaust. You start on the original pipe and run the first section into the Exhaust hanger and just leave it loose for now and we will piece everything together. We will slide on the next portion and again we are leaving everything loose. We are just piecing it together for now. Sometimes you run yourself into a situation where it might be easier to take off the hanger off the vehicle, put it on the Exhaust, and then reattach it by that by re bolting it to the frame. Now go ahead and install the fourth piece. Once you have all the pieces in place, now you want to take some time out to move them around to make sure we are going in as much of a straight line as possible and away from moving parts or anything you do not want to get hot. Basically you want to keep minimum of a 1 inch distance from anything around it. Once you settle on the orientation of all the parts you want, go ahead and clamp everything down. We will start working on our clamps going from the the forward to the back of the vehicle. Once you get everything tightened down you might want to take a second look to make sure nothing has moved on you while you were tightening it down. Again make sure everything has stayed as far away as possible from moving objects and keep it as far as possible from the spare tire. Next thing to do is go ahead and start the engine and enjoy the new noise. There you have it for the install of part number 16612 from Maganaflow performance Exhaust.





Wiring Harness Installation- 2008 Ford Escape - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2008-ford-escape-2.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2008 Ford Escape we are going to install part number 118430 from Tow Ready. This is our T-One wiring harness connector that is also a power converter. The first steps involved is opening the hatch of the vehicle and removing the two tail lights to get to our access points for our wiring connections. First we will take off the drivers side tail light. Just for now we are going to disconnect from the wire harness right here, this will actually be our connection points we are going to make. Then we will go over to the passenger side. :32 At this time we can go ahead and start installing our T-1 connector. We are going to start off back over on the drivers side. What we are going to do is our 4-pole in the cavity behind the bumper, same thing with the modulite itself, as well as 1/ 2 if the T connector with the green wire, that is going to go all the way down too. Now our connection point with the T connector with the yellow wire we are going to keep, and that is going to stay behind the tail light. We will go ahead and make our connections. These two will plug together, you might hear a small snap. This half is going to get plugged back into the tail light, but we can not do that yet because we have to install our ground. 1:04 The ground is going to go straight into the sheet metal here. Lets go ahead and reinstall our drivers side tail light. We will go underneath the vehicle now and run the green wire to the passenger side. We are going to route the green wire behind the fascia supports behind the bumper, all the way across. Next we will do the same thing with the 4-pole, but we will leave it by the hitch. Then, we will install our converter box and mount that permanently using the adhesive that comes with it. We are going to install it on the flat piece of sheet metal right back here. We will use some zip ties now and just zip tie it to the supports. Now we will push the other half of the T-One connector up through the tail light. Same thing as before, take the one matching end to the T connector and plug it into the factory wiring harness. We will take up any extra wire we have, take up the slack with a zip tie to keep it away from the Exhaust on the bottom. Same thing as the drivers side, install the wire harness to the back of the tail light. Back underneath the vehicle on the drivers side by the tail light we are going to go ahead and deal with the red wire and what it does. This wire goes up to the battery of the vehicle that powers the modulite. We are going to use a butt connector and the 10 gauge wire that came with the installation kit to attach to it. Throw some electrical tape around it and we will head up to the front of the vehicle. 2:45 We ran our wire up alongside the frame rail, keeping it away from the suspension and followed the factory wire harness whenever possible. We went through this cross member right here and alongside and above the gas tank, working our way from there. Then we pushed the rest of our bundle up into the engine compartment, so we will reach down and pull it out. We will tie it off here to keep it safe and out of the way. Then we will follow the wire harness up and around and tuck the wire behind the power box here. We will pull it out towards the battery, shorten it up, and on this end here we will install the fuse holder. It is pretty simple to do, cut the loop in half and on one side we will add a ring terminal and on the other a butt connector. With the butt connector end we will hook up to the black wire and cover it with electrical tape too. We are going to make our final connection to the battery. First, we will disconnect the negative terminal, so we will not shock ourselves working with the positive terminal. On the positive terminal we have a stud that we can attach our power wire too, it is a 6 milliliter thread, so we will use a nut and a washer from the local hardware store to attach to that. Put our ring terminal on there, a flat washer, and the nut. Once the terminals are reconnected to the battery we will install the fuse to the fuse holder and then check our work with the light tester on the 4-pole out back. There you have it for part number 118430 from Tow Ready.





How Car Exhaust System Works
Watch the animated video showing the working of an Exhaust system inside a car. Don't forget to share if you like it.





Turboed Acura Integra
turboooo 2001 integra t3/t4 single turbo





What Happens if You Replace the Exhaust Resonator With a Pipe? : Under the Car Repairs
Subscribe Now: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=Ehowauto Watch More: http://www.youtube.com/Ehowauto When you replace the spark arrestor or resonator with a piece of pipe, a few key things can happen. Find out what happens when you replace the spark arrestor or the resonator with a piece of pipe with help from an expert in the automotive industry in this free video clip. Expert: Robert Holcomb Filmmaker: Alan Mack Series Description: Not every car repair requires you to drop potentially hundreds of dollars at a mechanic's shop - many you can do yourself, as long as you have the right tools. Learn about various types of under the car repairs you can do at home with help from an expert in the automotive industry in this free video series.





Installing SLP Dual exhaust tips on 2008 Avalanche
SLP dual tip tailpipe installation on my 2008 Avalanche, I wanted to show how easy and sweet the dual tip assembly from SLP is. It replaces the resonator and tail pipe just past the rear axle. Not really any louder than the stock muffler, but looks way better than the lam factory setup. does sound a little deeper when idling but when cruzing I can't really notice any difference in sound, I am very happy and if you want to get rid of your ugly factory tail pipe I highly recommend installing this kit. V





Honda civic hatch h2b exhaust install
Install of my vibrant muffler resonator, high end header with 2.5 mandrel bends. Vtec torque quarter mile builds new projects turbo Boost or na power racing illegal legal high rpm reving weight reduction winning loosing and much more just a sneak peak of the goods that are coming soon.





2008 Mitsubishi Lancer ES [CVT] - Tsudo N1 Exhaust
There aren't many videos of the Tsudo N1 on a current gen Lancer, much less an installation video. So here ya go. There are NO other mods on this car. Everything is purely stock, except the Exhaust, of course. By the way, if you buy this Exhaust, you're probably going to have to do what I did and use a clamp or something to hold the Exhaust up, or else it'll probably end up falling off and you'll be dragging it down the road.





Magnaflow "not so simple" bolt on Catalytic Converter - DC2 Integra LS
Needed a few modifications to get the cat in but still better than my old OEM unit. My biggest beef with the the unit is the direct bolt on claim. If I need longer bolts, PROVIDE THEM! I took it apart and couldn't install the new unit because of missing hardware. You might think fair enough, except needing extra hardware and needing to modify existing stuff was never mentioned in the instructions. So I had to reinstall, to drive to buy bolts, drive back home and wait an hour for the Exhaust to cool enough to work with it. Don't piss on my leg and tell me it's raining. I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor (http://www.youtube.com/editor)





How to Install a BORLA Exhaust
Overview of a typical installation of a BORLA Cat-Back Exhaust, using a late-model Mustang as example.





The Turbo Integra Review-A Honda Done Right
The Honda-AKA the instant ricer, or is it? This is Chris Miller's Integra, and I have to say it's the best Honda I've ever driven yet. Why do you ask? The combination of everything-balance and anti-lag. This Integra is no joke, and thank you for watching! Social stuff and store below! My Social Stuff! Instagram/Twitter-Thatdudeinblue Like the Facebook!-https://www.facebook.com/thatdudeinblue T-Shirts!-http://thatdudeinblue.spreadshirt.com Twitch!-http://www.twitch.tv/thatdudeinblue/profile Song used-Varien & SirensCeol - Moonlight (feat. Aloma Steele) [Monstercat Release] Listen on SoundCloud: http://monster.cat/1lJfTpc Listen on Spotify: http://monster.cat/S0d88B ▼ Follow Monstercat YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/Monstercat Spotify: http://monster.cat/1hGrCWk Facebook: http://facebook.com/Monstercat Twitter: http://twitter.com/Monstercat Instagram: http://instagram.com/monstercat SoundCloud: http://soundcloud.com/Monstercat Google+: https://plus.google.com/+Monstercat ▼ Follow Varien: YouTube: http://www.Youtube.com/VarienOfficial Facebook: http://www.Facebook.com/VarienOfficial Twitter: http://www.Twitter.com/VarienOfficial Soundcloud: http://www.Soundcloud.com/VarienOfficial ▼ Follow SirensCeol Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SirensCeol Twitter: https://twitter.com/SirensCeol Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/sirens-ceol Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/SirensCeol ▼ Follow Aloma Steele Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/dessmusicent Twitter: https://twitter.com/TheDessMusic Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/alomasteele Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/user/LomaTherapy





Catback Exhaust - Explained
What is a catback? How does a catback increase performance? Why should you get a catback Exhaust kit? This video explains the benefits of a cat back Exhausts, using a Yonaka Motorsports sourced cat back Exhaust for Acura Integras. Product Link: Yonaka Catback - http://www.yonaka.com/Yonaka_94_01_Integra_2DR_Catback_Exhaust_p/ymcb002.htm Yonaka Motorsports - http://www.yonaka.com/ -- Related Videos -- Performance Exhaust: http://youtu.be/Ivgp1LBsGEQ Exhaust Systems: http://youtu.be/e72Xkf_5VXo Catalytic Converter: http://youtu.be/HADOcrcMikA Please feel free to rate, comment, and subscribe! And don't forget to check out my Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/engineeringexplained Also check out my official website: Make suggestions, participate in forums, learn through logically ordered lessons, read FAQs, and plan your future! http://www.howdoesacarwork.com Now on Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/jasonfenske13 NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!





SPECDTUNING INSTALLATION VIDEO: 1994-2001 ACURA INTEGRA HALO PROJECTOR HEAD LIGHTS
SPECDTUNING is proudly recognized as pioneers in the automotive industry for products and service. Our main goal is to provide the highest quality products at the lowest prices imaginable. The SPECDTUNING warehouse is the largest in Southern California carrying an array of aftermarket products. With a wide range listing from: Projector Headlights, L.E.D. Tail Lights, Third Brake Lights, Bumper Lights, Corner Lights, Front Grills, Bumper Lips, down to Headers. These are just a few items mentioned from the selection available. Furthermore, all the products are updated constantly keeping SPECDTUNING ahead in the industry for all makes and models of vehicles. Always prepared to serve every guest; please visit us at SpecDtuning.com for more info or call 909-839-2533 to start a wholesale account today or visit us at www.specdtuning.com. Staff at SpecDtuning are here and ready to help.





Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?




Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1994 Acura Integra GS-R: 9.400 @ 154.550
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1995 Acura Integra LS: 9.590 @ 152.450
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1994 Acura Integra : 10.020 @ 146.000
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1998 Acura Integra Type R: 10.344 @ 148.390
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1998 Acura Integra Type-R: 10.980 @ 131.200
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1996 Acura Integra GSR: 11.011 @ 136.870
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1997 Acura Integra RS Turbo GT3076: 11.400 @ 127.000
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2001 Acura Integra GSR Turbo: 11.485 @ 129.570
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1994 Acura Integra GSR: 11.628 @ 126.102
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1990 Acura Integra LS V-TEC: 11.673 @ 127.010
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1997 Acura Integra LS Notec: 11.676 @ 119.730
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1995 Acura Integra ls: 11.700 @ 117.900
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2000 Acura Integra GS-R: 11.904 @ 119.330
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1993 Acura Integra Type R (RHD) K20 B00sted: 11.920 @ 121.326
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1997 Acura Integra : 11.960 @ 116.250
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1994 Acura Integra GS-R: 11.960 @ 118.000
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1995 Acura Integra GS-R: 12.000 @ 123.500
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