Magnaflow Exhaust Installation - 2005 Infiniti G35 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-Exhaust-2005-infinti-g35-coupe.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to be installing Magnaflow Performance Exhaust system part number 16641on a 2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe. Before we get started we want to go ahead and disconnect the negative terminal off the battery. The battery is located behind this panel here on the upper left-hand side of the engine compartment. This going to allow the computer to reset so when we get the new Exhaust system on it will reconfigure itself to the new Exhaust. And we will go underneath the vehicle and start disconnecting the old Exhaust. This is a Cat Black system so we will be moving the Exhaust tips all the way up to the disconnect point behind the catalytic converter. So we need to unbolt the flange here from these two bolts and we are also going to need to remove the Exhaust off all its hangers as well. The rubber hangers we are going to be using are located right here, right here, right here, and right here. Using a spray lubricant on the rubber hangers will make the removal of those a lot easier. You are going to want to save the rubber hangers because we will be reusing those for the re-installation. And then also here just forward of the main Exhaust you want to disconnect the ground wire off of the post here. We can go ahead and start disassembling it. I defiantly recommend spraying down all the bolts first with a lubricant like a WD40 because these will likely be rusted. This will help ease the removal of the nuts. Next we are going to go to the flange just rear of the Exhaust and go ahead and remove the ground strap. Okay now we will remove the Exhaust from all of the hangers. With all the rubber hangers removed you can go ahead and take the Exhaust system out. The first piece we are going to go ahead and put in place is the one nearest the catalytic converter. Just going to be bolted to the flange, you want to make sure you have the gasket in place here. We do want to make sure the slight bend here goes toward the driver side. We want to leave everything fairly loose for the time being until we get it all installed and then we can tighten it all down. Okay next we are going to put the second inlet piece in. You want the side with the rubber hanger to be facing the drivers side, it is going to attach right here. Then we are going to take one of the clamps that are provided with the installation kit and slide it over the inlet tube here over the end with the notches cut out of it. Go ahead and take that, and slide it over, slide it all the way in. All right go ahead and attach it to the rubber hanger here. Then we slide the clamp over and again we are just going to loosely install it for the time being. What I am going to do is manipulate it in and out of the inlet tube until that rubber hanger is facing straight up and down. Before I put the muffler on I am actually going to pre-install the clamp over this inlet tube because once the muffler is in place it is going to be tough to manipulate around there. Then we are going to go ahead and install the muffler itself. In preparation I went ahead and in the area where the muffler goes I went ahead and put all of the the rubber hangers back on the vehicle itself. Now that I have the muffler adjusted and properly into place I can go ahead and install our other clamp. I am going to go ahead and install with the threads on the upper side on each of them. And with that loosely installed I can go ahead and start tightening everything down. When tightening down you want to start with the forward most bolts and work your way rearward. Last thing you want to do is go ahead and re-secure our grounding strap. To do that we are just going to be using the protruding threads from our clamp here at the rear most attaching point. Just slide that over and re-install it with the lock nut that is provided with the installation kit. With the grounding strap on again you just want to make sure all of our hangers are secure and our installation will be complete. This Exhaust system was designed to make the car sound louder. Here is how it sounded before. And here is how it sounds now. And that will conclude the installation of part number 16641 on a 2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/p-MF16674.html Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 we are going to be installing Magnaflow Exhaust system part number MF16674. The Magnaflow Exhaust system is going to allow us to replace our factory Exhaust from just rearward catalytic converters all the way to the Exhaust tips. First thing we are going to need to do is remove the stock system.
Wiring Harness Installation- 2008 Ford Escape - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2008-ford-escape-2.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2008 Ford Escape we are going to install part number 118430 from Tow Ready. This is our T-One wiring harness connector that is also a power converter. The first steps involved is opening the hatch of the vehicle and removing the two tail lights to get to our access points for our wiring connections. First we will take off the drivers side tail light. Just for now we are going to disconnect from the wire harness right here, this will actually be our connection points we are going to make. Then we will go over to the passenger side. :32 At this time we can go ahead and start installing our T-1 connector. We are going to start off back over on the drivers side. What we are going to do is our 4-pole in the cavity behind the bumper, same thing with the modulite itself, as well as 1/ 2 if the T connector with the green wire, that is going to go all the way down too. Now our connection point with the T connector with the yellow wire we are going to keep, and that is going to stay behind the tail light. We will go ahead and make our connections. These two will plug together, you might hear a small snap. This half is going to get plugged back into the tail light, but we can not do that yet because we have to install our ground. 1:04 The ground is going to go straight into the sheet metal here. Lets go ahead and reinstall our drivers side tail light. We will go underneath the vehicle now and run the green wire to the passenger side. We are going to route the green wire behind the fascia supports behind the bumper, all the way across. Next we will do the same thing with the 4-pole, but we will leave it by the hitch. Then, we will install our converter box and mount that permanently using the adhesive that comes with it. We are going to install it on the flat piece of sheet metal right back here. We will use some zip ties now and just zip tie it to the supports. Now we will push the other half of the T-One connector up through the tail light. Same thing as before, take the one matching end to the T connector and plug it into the factory wiring harness. We will take up any extra wire we have, take up the slack with a zip tie to keep it away from the Exhaust on the bottom. Same thing as the drivers side, install the wire harness to the back of the tail light. Back underneath the vehicle on the drivers side by the tail light we are going to go ahead and deal with the red wire and what it does. This wire goes up to the battery of the vehicle that powers the modulite. We are going to use a butt connector and the 10 gauge wire that came with the installation kit to attach to it. Throw some electrical tape around it and we will head up to the front of the vehicle. 2:45 We ran our wire up alongside the frame rail, keeping it away from the suspension and followed the factory wire harness whenever possible. We went through this cross member right here and alongside and above the gas tank, working our way from there. Then we pushed the rest of our bundle up into the engine compartment, so we will reach down and pull it out. We will tie it off here to keep it safe and out of the way. Then we will follow the wire harness up and around and tuck the wire behind the power box here. We will pull it out towards the battery, shorten it up, and on this end here we will install the fuse holder. It is pretty simple to do, cut the loop in half and on one side we will add a ring terminal and on the other a butt connector. With the butt connector end we will hook up to the black wire and cover it with electrical tape too. We are going to make our final connection to the battery. First, we will disconnect the negative terminal, so we will not shock ourselves working with the positive terminal. On the positive terminal we have a stud that we can attach our power wire too, it is a 6 milliliter thread, so we will use a nut and a washer from the local hardware store to attach to that. Put our ring terminal on there, a flat washer, and the nut. Once the terminals are reconnected to the battery we will install the fuse to the fuse holder and then check our work with the light tester on the 4-pole out back. There you have it for part number 118430 from Tow Ready.
Wiring Harness Installation- 2010 Acura MDX - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2010-acura-mdx.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Acura MDX we are going to install part number 118424. The first thing we need to do is open up the back tail gate to get to the interior components of the vehicle, because we have to remove a few panels. First off we are going to open up this hatch right here and remove it. Then we will take out the cover for our jack storage compartment. Then we will remove our threshold right here . The reason we are moving all these pieces is because we need access to run our wires from the court, out to where we can use it. :27 This panel pretty much pops up on its own. Now that we have this cover up what is going to happen is we are going to run this T-One connector underneath the plastic inside this panel right here. Lets go ahead and remove this panel, there is our electrical panel right here. This is the T-One connector, this is the port on it. We are going to plug in on the port on the panel right here. We will take our port, run it underneath the panel and up. Just plug it in. Next we will take the ground wire and attach it to this ground stud right here. Put it through our white wire and reattach the bolt to the body along with the other ground wires. 1:10 Now we will go ahead and mount our convertor box, it has a piece of adhesive back here that we are going to use to attach it to this plastic piece right here that will be a good, safe spot for it. At this point here we are going to route this back through our jack storage compartment. We can have it reside in the storage compartment when you are not using it. You can then, pull it out, and shut the door on it. The door seal is thick enough where when you shut the door on it, it will not hurt the wires, all you have to do is make sure you stay away from the center latch and you will be fine. However, in this case we are going to run our wires outside and mount it to the hitch itself. So I have to do a couple more things. We are going to find a location to run the wires out of the body. Right in here there is a grommet, we can pop that out and we can have access through to the outside. As you can see that 4-pull will not fit through there so we are going to take our 4-pull wire and cut it in half and run it through and make new connections on the inside. We are going to cut our wire short right here, just enough so you can still work with it. When you do this you want to make sure there is no power going to this so you do not cross a ground wire with the other circuits just in case something is on. We will go ahead and unplug it from the port. Then lets go ahead and split our wires back. Next we will go ahead and work on our grommet, I am going to take a knife and put a slit through it. You have to make quiet a few passes because it is a pretty thick grommet. From underneath the vehicle we are going to push our wire back through. Then we will slide our grommet back on to our wire and push it back into place and leave it alone for now. 2:56 Now we will reconnect our wires, color for color. Slide on the butt connectors and crimp them into place. Now that we have our connections done lets grab some electrical tape and secure them. Then we will go ahead and reassemble the rest of the vehicle. We will plug back into our port. Now we will get back underneath the vehicle and figure out how to route our wires. I think we will just go along the original harness, above the hanger for the muffler and go over the hitch and then we will come back over the top of the hitch here and then we will mount our bracket on top of the tube here. Keep it a flat alignment with the hitch, mark the holes for it, then drill it out. Alright, we will go ahead and pop our 4-pole into the bracket, it is a friction fit so you have to push it on through, get a good grip on it and kind of pull it out. Then install the hardware that came with the bracket. However, on the other side we are going to add some additional flat washers we found laying around. With everything secured and our wire zip tied in place, that will finish our install of part number 118424 from Tow Ready.