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MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 1996 Acura Integra - etrailer.com

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Magnaflow-install-1996-acura-Integra.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1996 Acura Integra we are going to install MagnaFlow Exhaust part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance. First off we will give you a sound test of the original Exhaust on there. Then we can compare it to the new one once we have it installed. First we will show you what is going to get replaced in our Exhaust system. Basically this is what is called a Cat-back or from the catalytic converter on back to the tailpipe. This is our converter right here and at this flange point we are going to unbolt right here and from here on back is going to get removed from the vehicle. On the bolts themselves we sprayed down with some penetrate and let it sit for at least an hour or so. The nut on the top is going to be a different size nut also. Leave that alone for now. 00:50 If these break we do not really care because this is all getting replaced anyway. Get this apart. Next spray down the rubber hangers with some more lubricant and we will pry them off. We do not want to damage the rubber hangers because those are going to get reused. The same thing is going to happen again with the muffler. Now if these hangers are already damaged from normal wear and tear you probably want to just replace them and this is going to be the best time to do it now. Now we have got our Exhaust completely off. What we are going to do is take any leftover hangers that had stayed with the Exhaust and remove those and put them back into the factory locations. 01:35 We are going to start installing new parts working our way from front to rear. We are going to slide on a new part. We are going to reuse the original factory nuts. We are just going to start one and get it started and hold everything into place and then we will slide on the rubber hangers. We will run all of these bolts down evenly and then give them a final torque. Working with the next section is going to S curve. Install the clamp, slide it on, and slide this on to the resonator pipe that we just installed. This does not really have anything to support it but the other half so we are going to slide it on for now. The approximate location of the original. Install the muffler and tailpipe and slide that into place. We will hook these up to the rubber hangers by the bumper. Put the S pipe next to the tailpipe itself. There is a little gasket that will go on here. Slide it into position and run the bolts through. This is hardware that does come with the kit and install the flange nuts. 03:28 Position the pipes the way that we want it and make sure it is not rattling up against anything that we do not want it to. Then once we have it the way we want it we will snug down the connections. The last thing we will do is tighten down the band clamp and that requires a specific torque range that is provided in the instructions. With our Exhaust fully installed the only thing we need to do now is turn the engine on and see what we get for sound. At about 20 to 50 miles, you probably want to go back underneath the vehicle again and make sure all of the fasteners are still tight. That sounds pretty good. There you have it for part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust.


 


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Wiring Harness Installation- 2008 Ford Escape - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2008-ford-escape-2.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2008 Ford Escape we are going to install part number 118430 from Tow Ready. This is our T-One wiring harness connector that is also a power converter. The first steps involved is opening the hatch of the vehicle and removing the two tail lights to get to our access points for our wiring connections. First we will take off the drivers side tail light. Just for now we are going to disconnect from the wire harness right here, this will actually be our connection points we are going to make. Then we will go over to the passenger side. :32 At this time we can go ahead and start installing our T-1 connector. We are going to start off back over on the drivers side. What we are going to do is our 4-pole in the cavity behind the bumper, same thing with the modulite itself, as well as 1/ 2 if the T connector with the green wire, that is going to go all the way down too. Now our connection point with the T connector with the yellow wire we are going to keep, and that is going to stay behind the tail light. We will go ahead and make our connections. These two will plug together, you might hear a small snap. This half is going to get plugged back into the tail light, but we can not do that yet because we have to install our ground. 1:04 The ground is going to go straight into the sheet metal here. Lets go ahead and reinstall our drivers side tail light. We will go underneath the vehicle now and run the green wire to the passenger side. We are going to route the green wire behind the fascia supports behind the bumper, all the way across. Next we will do the same thing with the 4-pole, but we will leave it by the hitch. Then, we will install our converter box and mount that permanently using the adhesive that comes with it. We are going to install it on the flat piece of sheet metal right back here. We will use some zip ties now and just zip tie it to the supports. Now we will push the other half of the T-One connector up through the tail light. Same thing as before, take the one matching end to the T connector and plug it into the factory wiring harness. We will take up any extra wire we have, take up the slack with a zip tie to keep it away from the Exhaust on the bottom. Same thing as the drivers side, install the wire harness to the back of the tail light. Back underneath the vehicle on the drivers side by the tail light we are going to go ahead and deal with the red wire and what it does. This wire goes up to the battery of the vehicle that powers the modulite. We are going to use a butt connector and the 10 gauge wire that came with the installation kit to attach to it. Throw some electrical tape around it and we will head up to the front of the vehicle. 2:45 We ran our wire up alongside the frame rail, keeping it away from the suspension and followed the factory wire harness whenever possible. We went through this cross member right here and alongside and above the gas tank, working our way from there. Then we pushed the rest of our bundle up into the engine compartment, so we will reach down and pull it out. We will tie it off here to keep it safe and out of the way. Then we will follow the wire harness up and around and tuck the wire behind the power box here. We will pull it out towards the battery, shorten it up, and on this end here we will install the fuse holder. It is pretty simple to do, cut the loop in half and on one side we will add a ring terminal and on the other a butt connector. With the butt connector end we will hook up to the black wire and cover it with electrical tape too. We are going to make our final connection to the battery. First, we will disconnect the negative terminal, so we will not shock ourselves working with the positive terminal. On the positive terminal we have a stud that we can attach our power wire too, it is a 6 milliliter thread, so we will use a nut and a washer from the local hardware store to attach to that. Put our ring terminal on there, a flat washer, and the nut. Once the terminals are reconnected to the battery we will install the fuse to the fuse holder and then check our work with the light tester on the 4-pole out back. There you have it for part number 118430 from Tow Ready.





Trailer Hitch Installation - 2008 Ford Edge - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2008-ford-edge-1.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2008 Ford Edge we are going to be installing Curt hitch part number 13060. We are underneath the vehicle, the first thing we want to do is lower down the dual Exhaust system. There are three hangers here at the rear that need to come down. There is one on the drivers side, passenger side, and one just forward of the dual Exhaust right in the middle. All three of those are going to need to come down. :23 To lower the Exhaust off its hangers we are going to use a spray lubricant like a WD-40 ans spray down the studs of the hangers. Then we will take a pry bar, or a set of pliers and separate the two pieces. Before I remove the Exhaust off of its third hanger you want to put a support strap across the main Exhaust tube here. The reason for this is that once we remove the Exhaust off of its third hanger the system will want to come down. If it falls too far it will damage it. :49 The next step with the Exhaust lowered is to go ahead and remove the heat shield from both sides of the vehicle. There are three bolts holding each heat shield into place. Also, on the inboard side there is a push fastener that is also holding it into place, so we want to go ahead and remove that as well. Over here on the drivers side you may have a wiring harness connected to the heat shield up here at the rear side of the heat shield. The heat shields will be going back up into position once we get the hitch up into place. With the heat shield removed we can point out the mounting locations for our trailer hitch. Looking over here on the driver side frame rail you can see we have a couple existing holes in the frame. We are going to be using the rear most ones and the forward most ones as our two attaching points here at the bottom of the frame. There is going to be a third attaching point at the rear side. We are going to have to use the hitch as a template to drill those holes out. That is going to be the same for the passenger side as well. Into those holes we are going to be ing the block along with the carriage bolt that are provided with the installation kit. 1:59 To get the carriage bolt and block assemblies inside the frame we are going to be using the 1/2 inch bolt leader which is provided with the installation kit. We are going to take and feed it out through the end of the bumper structure here. We will first take the block and slide it onto the bolt leader, followed by the carriage bolt which we are going to wrap around the threads of the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt. Okay, we want to take the other end of the bolt leader here and use that to pull the block and carriage bolt inside the frame and down into position. We are going to repeat that for the other mounting hole as well. We want to repeat that for the passenger side and then we will put the hitch up in position. We want to leave the bolts on each side loose for the time being, because the next step is to put the heat shield back into place. We want to take this heat shield and cut this tab off because the hole it was going into is now one of the attaching points for the trailer hitch. What we are going to do with the heat shield is pinch it in between the hitch and the frame. Then we would repeat that for the passenger side heat shield as well. With the heat shields back into place we can go ahead and tighten the bolts down. 3:13 If you follow that hitch along to the rear side you can see there is a third mounting hole, what we are going to need to do is use the hitch as a template and drill this hole out. You will need to drill it out with a 17/32 ths bit. I am going to make a 1/4 inch pilot hole first and then enlarge to a 17/32 ths. Now that we have all of our hardware in place we can start torquing our bolts down. You want to verify with the directions the specific torque rating for each individual bolt. With the bolts torqued down you just want to put our Exhaust system back up into place and our installation will be complete. Now that we have our hitch installed we are going to give you a couple final installed dimensions that will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going the measure 13-1/8 inches. From the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is approximately 6 inches. That will conclude the installation of Curt hitch part number 13060 on a 2008 Ford Edge.





Wiring Harness Installation- 2010 Acura MDX - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2010-acura-mdx.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Acura MDX we are going to install part number 118424. The first thing we need to do is open up the back tail gate to get to the interior components of the vehicle, because we have to remove a few panels. First off we are going to open up this hatch right here and remove it. Then we will take out the cover for our jack storage compartment. Then we will remove our threshold right here . The reason we are moving all these pieces is because we need access to run our wires from the court, out to where we can use it. :27 This panel pretty much pops up on its own. Now that we have this cover up what is going to happen is we are going to run this T-One connector underneath the plastic inside this panel right here. Lets go ahead and remove this panel, there is our electrical panel right here. This is the T-One connector, this is the port on it. We are going to plug in on the port on the panel right here. We will take our port, run it underneath the panel and up. Just plug it in. Next we will take the ground wire and attach it to this ground stud right here. Put it through our white wire and reattach the bolt to the body along with the other ground wires. 1:10 Now we will go ahead and mount our convertor box, it has a piece of adhesive back here that we are going to use to attach it to this plastic piece right here that will be a good, safe spot for it. At this point here we are going to route this back through our jack storage compartment. We can have it reside in the storage compartment when you are not using it. You can then, pull it out, and shut the door on it. The door seal is thick enough where when you shut the door on it, it will not hurt the wires, all you have to do is make sure you stay away from the center latch and you will be fine. However, in this case we are going to run our wires outside and mount it to the hitch itself. So I have to do a couple more things. We are going to find a location to run the wires out of the body. Right in here there is a grommet, we can pop that out and we can have access through to the outside. As you can see that 4-pull will not fit through there so we are going to take our 4-pull wire and cut it in half and run it through and make new connections on the inside. We are going to cut our wire short right here, just enough so you can still work with it. When you do this you want to make sure there is no power going to this so you do not cross a ground wire with the other circuits just in case something is on. We will go ahead and unplug it from the port. Then lets go ahead and split our wires back. Next we will go ahead and work on our grommet, I am going to take a knife and put a slit through it. You have to make quiet a few passes because it is a pretty thick grommet. From underneath the vehicle we are going to push our wire back through. Then we will slide our grommet back on to our wire and push it back into place and leave it alone for now. 2:56 Now we will reconnect our wires, color for color. Slide on the butt connectors and crimp them into place. Now that we have our connections done lets grab some electrical tape and secure them. Then we will go ahead and reassemble the rest of the vehicle. We will plug back into our port. Now we will get back underneath the vehicle and figure out how to route our wires. I think we will just go along the original harness, above the hanger for the muffler and go over the hitch and then we will come back over the top of the hitch here and then we will mount our bracket on top of the tube here. Keep it a flat alignment with the hitch, mark the holes for it, then drill it out. Alright, we will go ahead and pop our 4-pole into the bracket, it is a friction fit so you have to push it on through, get a good grip on it and kind of pull it out. Then install the hardware that came with the bracket. However, on the other side we are going to add some additional flat washers we found laying around. With everything secured and our wire zip tied in place, that will finish our install of part number 118424 from Tow Ready.





Wiring Harness Installation- 2010 Buick Enclave - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Wiring-Harness-2010-Buick-Enclave-1.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Buick Enclave we are going to be installing wiring harness part number 118450. We are at the rear cargo area of the Enclave, and we are going to locate the ports that we are going to be plugging our wiring harness into. These ports are actually located directly behind the tail light assembly on both the driver and passenger side. So, the first thing we want to do is remove both tail light assemblies. To do that we are going to open up the rear cargo door, there are two inboard screws holding the tail light into place. We need to pull back the covers to expose those. :30 With those two removed we just want to take and rock the tail light back and fourth, there are a couple outboard side clips that are holding it in place as well. With that pulled back, you can see the connector that we are going to be plugging our wiring harness in line to. What I am going to do at this time is disconnect the two, you can do that by pressing the tab at the top here and then pull the two pieces apart. Now I am going to go over and do the same thing for the passenger side light as well. 1:06 Then we are going to start on the driver side of the vehicle, and start plugging our harness in line. On the driver side we are going to be plugging in the port with the yellow and brown wires in them before I actually plug my tail lights back in. We are going to do a couple of other things first, you can see we have a white wire here with a ring terminal on it, that is our ground wire. We need to secure that to the metal on the backside of the tail light assembly. We are going to do that by using the self tapping screw that is provided with the installation kit. Next, we need to take the plugs for the passenger side, along with the 4-pole itself, and feed it down between the opening of the body and the bumper here. 1:44 This space is a little limited though, so to help give us more working room we are going to take off theses two inboard side screws holding the bumper in place. Next, we can start feeding our wires below. With those routed through, I can put these two screws back into place. Then we can plug the other end of the harness back into the tail light. With that done we can put the driver side tail light back on. Now we can move underneath the vehicle and start routing our wires into place. Back up underneath the vehicle, what we have done is take our passenger side connector and our 4-pole wires and routed them up and over the bumper bracket. This is going to help keep it away from the Exhaust system. From here I am going to take a 4-pole end and route it to the center of the vehicle. I am going to tie it off at the trailer hitch. Then I am going to take the passenger side connector and route it all the way across. Again, we are going to go up and over the bumper bracket over here as well. 3:17 With it up and over the bumper bracket I am going to take and feed it through the same opening between the bumper and body assembly. Then we will attach it to the passenger side tail light. To aid in the fishing of the wire up to the passenger side tail light, what I have done is route a piece of black gauge wire from the tail light assembly down. I am going to take and tape my harness to it. That is going to allow me to pull it up into place much easier. Then we can just plug our harness in line. From there you want to do a quick double check underneath the vehicle, you want to make sure you do not have any loose or hanging wires that can get pinched or damaged. And your installation will be complete. That will complete the installation of wiring harness part number 118450 on a 2010 Buick Enclave.





Magnaflow "not so simple" bolt on Catalytic Converter - DC2 Integra LS
Needed a few modifications to get the cat in but still better than my old OEM unit. I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor (http://www.youtube.com/editor)





2008 Mitsubishi Lancer ES [CVT] - Tsudo N1 Exhaust
There aren't many videos of the Tsudo N1 on a current gen Lancer, much less an installation video. So here ya go. There are NO other mods on this car. Everything is purely stock, except the Exhaust, of course. By the way, if you buy this Exhaust, you're probably going to have to do what I did and use a clamp or something to hold the Exhaust up, or else it'll probably end up falling off and you'll be dragging it down the road.





Must See! Gasket blows up in Integra and the kid decides to change it on the spot!
Auto show in Erie, PA, looks like he changed a few of those in his lifetime lol. Feel free to like my facebook page to see the photos behind the videos. http://www.facebook.com/antonbachukphotography





DIY How to Install a Honda Catalytic Converter & Exhaust System (pt. 1)
A Do-It-Yourself tutorial on how to install a catalytic converter & aftermarket exgaust system on a 1991 Honda Accord. Press LIKE if this video helped you in any way. Thank you





Custom Headers Part (5 of 6).wmv
Custom header fabrication. Includes header final fit up and tacking of stainless mandrel bends. www.stainlessheaders.com





Installing SLP Dual exhaust tips on 2008 Avalanche
SLP dual tip tailpipe installation on my 2008 Avalanche, I wanted to show how easy and sweet the dual tip assembly from SLP is. It replaces the resonator and tail pipe just past the rear axle. Not really any louder than the stock muffler, but looks way better than the lam factory setup. does sound a little deeper when idling but when cruzing I can't really notice any difference in sound, I am very happy and if you want to get rid of your ugly factory tail pipe I highly recommend installing this kit. V





Catback Exhaust - Explained
What is a catback? How does a catback increase performance? Why should you get a catback Exhaust kit? This video explains the benefits of a cat back Exhausts, using a Yonaka Motorsports sourced cat back Exhaust for Acura Integras. Product Link: Yonaka Catback - http://www.yonaka.com/Yonaka_94_01_Integra_2DR_Catback_Exhaust_p/ymcb002.htm Yonaka Motorsports - http://www.yonaka.com/ -- Related Videos -- Performance Exhaust: http://youtu.be/Ivgp1LBsGEQ Exhaust Systems: http://youtu.be/e72Xkf_5VXo Catalytic Converter: http://youtu.be/HADOcrcMikA Please feel free to rate, comment, and subscribe! And don't forget to check out my Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/engineeringexplained Also check out my official website: Make suggestions, participate in forums, learn through logically ordered lessons, read FAQs, and plan your future! http://www.howdoesacarwork.com Now on Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/jasonfenske13 NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!





How to Install a 4WDH Cat-Back Exhaust on a WJ Grand Cherokee
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Performance/4Wheel-Drive-Hardware-Exhaust-Systems-for-Jeep.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=49&t_pt =3383&t_pl=104715 - In this video, we're showing you how to install a 4Wheel Drive Hardware cat-back Exhaust system on a WJ Grand Cherokee. This Exhaust (Part #1022020) sounds very similar to 1997-06 TJ Wranglers and 1997-01 XJ Cherokees with 4.0L 6-cylinder engines. Here's how it's done: 1. Unbolt and remove muffler clamp. 2. Persuasion may be needed to remove the Exhaust, especially if it's rusted on like ours was. 3. A sawzall makes quick work of it. 4. Remove the rear hanger after cutting through. 5. We had to use an air chisel to get the muffler off. 6. Install the adapter pipe. 7. Install the new muffler with the outlet facing the outside. 8. Use 2 clamps on the adapter pipe. 9. Slide Exhaust pipe in from the rear. 10. Install rear hanger clamp. 11. Attach Exhaust to muffler. 12. Snug all clamps and check for fit. 13. Tighten all bolts down after alignment. 14. Compare the sound of the factory Exhaust system to the newly installed 4Wheel Drive Hardware Exhaust system. Request Your Free Jeep Parts Catalog from 4WD: http://jo.my/4wd_jeep_parts_catalog Find these quality Exhaust systems and more at www.4WD.com.





How to Install a Cat-back Exhaust System, 2010 Challenger
Visit http://www.gearheaddiva.com for more videos. This kick-awesome how-to video I put together shows you how to install a Mopar cat-back Exhaust system in to your late model challenger along with the tools you'll need and a few tips for avoiding some common "oops" moments. Installing an after-market Exhaust system will improve your car's performance and add a bit of horsepower in the process. Join me on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/gearheaddiva Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/gearheaddiva





J32A2 95 Civic Si V6 swap
Some street footage of my stock J32A3 95 Civic Si.





Supercharged Acura Integra (ProCharged GSR) vs. LS Turbo
Two BoostED Acura Integras go at it! How will the heavier Supercharged 4-door GSR compare with the light weight 2-Door LS turbo (No VTEC)?? I got carried away with the editing! Hope you enjoy.




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1994 Acura Integra GS-R: 9.400 @ 154.550
Mike Carl, Engine: 1.8 LS/vtec, Turbos: T72 Tires: 28x10 Goodyear


1995 Acura Integra LS: 9.590 @ 152.450
Alexei Guinitaran, Engine: 1.8L LS VTEC, Turbos: S372 Tires: M/T


1994 Acura Integra : 10.020 @ 146.000
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1998 Acura Integra Type R: 10.344 @ 148.390
Mike, Engine: B18C5, Supercharger: removed for turbo Turbos: aftermarket Tires: slicks


1998 Acura Integra Type-R: 10.980 @ 131.200
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2000 Acura Integra ls: 10.990 @ 127.260
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1996 Acura Integra GSR: 11.011 @ 136.870
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1997 Acura Integra RS Turbo GT3076: 11.400 @ 127.000
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2001 Acura Integra GSR Turbo: 11.485 @ 129.570
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1996 Acura Integra rsT: 11.598 @ 123.220
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1995 Acura Integra : 11.610 @ 125.000
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1994 Acura Integra GSR: 11.628 @ 126.102
Morris Watson, Engine: B18C1, Supercharger: JRSC Tires: 205 45 17


1990 Acura Integra LS V-TEC: 11.673 @ 127.010
AMORIS MARTINEZ, Engine: B18A1 golden eagle sleeve, Turbos: TUBONETIC 66mm Tires: 215/55R14


1997 Acura Integra LS Notec: 11.676 @ 119.730
Tyler Wilsey, Engine: B18B1 (NOTEC), Turbos: Turbonetics T3/T04E 50 trim Tires: M/T 24.5


1995 Acura Integra ls: 11.700 @ 117.900
david robinson, Engine: 1.8L 4 cyl or b18b1, Turbos: turbonetics .50 Tires: m&h slicks


2000 Acura Integra GS-R: 11.904 @ 119.330
Jorge Llaguno, Engine: B18C1, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: Garrett T3/T04E 60-1 Tires: M&H Slicks


1993 Acura Integra Type R (RHD) K20 B00sted: 11.920 @ 121.326
Kyle clarkton, Engine: JDM K20A, Turbos: Garrett GT28R Ball Bearing Tires: 215/45/16 Dunlop DZ101


1997 Acura Integra : 11.960 @ 116.250
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1994 Acura Integra GS-R: 11.960 @ 118.000
John Gill, Engine: 1.8 GSR, Turbos: T3/60-1 Tires: Slicks


1995 Acura Integra GS-R: 12.000 @ 123.500
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