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MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 1996 Acura Integra - etrailer.com

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Magnaflow-install-1996-acura-Integra.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1996 Acura Integra we are going to install MagnaFlow Exhaust part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance. First off we will give you a sound test of the original Exhaust on there. Then we can compare it to the new one once we have it installed. First we will show you what is going to get replaced in our Exhaust system. Basically this is what is called a Cat-back or from the catalytic converter on back to the tailpipe. This is our converter right here and at this flange point we are going to unbolt right here and from here on back is going to get removed from the vehicle. On the bolts themselves we sprayed down with some penetrate and let it sit for at least an hour or so. The nut on the top is going to be a different size nut also. Leave that alone for now. 00:50 If these break we do not really care because this is all getting replaced anyway. Get this apart. Next spray down the rubber hangers with some more lubricant and we will pry them off. We do not want to damage the rubber hangers because those are going to get reused. The same thing is going to happen again with the muffler. Now if these hangers are already damaged from normal wear and tear you probably want to just replace them and this is going to be the best time to do it now. Now we have got our Exhaust completely off. What we are going to do is take any leftover hangers that had stayed with the Exhaust and remove those and put them back into the factory locations. 01:35 We are going to start installing new parts working our way from front to rear. We are going to slide on a new part. We are going to reuse the original factory nuts. We are just going to start one and get it started and hold everything into place and then we will slide on the rubber hangers. We will run all of these bolts down evenly and then give them a final torque. Working with the next section is going to S curve. Install the clamp, slide it on, and slide this on to the resonator pipe that we just installed. This does not really have anything to support it but the other half so we are going to slide it on for now. The approximate location of the original. Install the muffler and tailpipe and slide that into place. We will hook these up to the rubber hangers by the bumper. Put the S pipe next to the tailpipe itself. There is a little gasket that will go on here. Slide it into position and run the bolts through. This is hardware that does come with the kit and install the flange nuts. 03:28 Position the pipes the way that we want it and make sure it is not rattling up against anything that we do not want it to. Then once we have it the way we want it we will snug down the connections. The last thing we will do is tighten down the band clamp and that requires a specific torque range that is provided in the instructions. With our Exhaust fully installed the only thing we need to do now is turn the engine on and see what we get for sound. At about 20 to 50 miles, you probably want to go back underneath the vehicle again and make sure all of the fasteners are still tight. That sounds pretty good. There you have it for part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust.


 


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MagnaFlow Muffler Install - 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-1991-chevy-S10-MF10784-MF11226 .aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1991 Chevrolet S-10 we are going to be installing part number MF10784 and part number MF11226. This is going to be a little different from normal applications because we are actually doing a little bit of custom work. We are actually going to be removing the entire Exhaust and replacing it with a MagnaFlow Exhaust cut out and a MagnaFlow wide open muffler. The first steps we are going to show you is how to remove the complete Exhaust and what we are going to have to do is remove it from the hangers and I will show you those locations right now. Before we remove everything we want to put a strap to hold up your Exhaust so it does not fall when you are removing the bolts and mounts. 00:38 The first location we are actually going to remove is going to be the rear most bracket here. That is going to be these two bolts right here. We went ahead and sprayed them down with some lubricant to help get the bolts off since this is an older truck. The second Exhaust mount that we are going to be removing is going to be the one at the back of the muffler which is going to be located here. It is also going to be two bolts holding it into the frame. After we remove the Exhaust mounts your Exhaust will be free hanging on that strap and then we are going to be removing these two bolts right here which will remove the Exhaust from here back and then we will start applying our applications. 01:15 We are going to get started on removing the Exhaust brackets. I just removed one, the other one was kind of rusted on there but we can actually just slide it back over. Then when we remove the Exhaust this will just slide off so we do not need to take out this other bolt. So now we are going to remove the Exhaust system. As you can see we are going to actually take the Sawzall off and cut it off right here. Since this is the factory Exhaust it is all rusted up and there is no way we are going to be able to slide it off so we are just going to cut right at the edge where the old Exhaust is going to be removed. As you can see we went ahead and put a second bearing strap so that when we finish cutting our Exhaust over here that it will not fall. 01:57 As you can see we have it off now so we are just going to maneuver it around our rear end and slide it up over the top of it. It would probably be best to have a second set of hands to help you as well in maneuvering. On this Exhaust cut out here they are provided with two band clamps but since we widened our diameter here they do not fit over the pipe any more so we went ahead and bought some after market pipe brackets. As you can see it just slides over like that and you will be provided those in your kit. On this application we are using these. We will put this on first and we will show you how to do that. Just take the Exhaust cut out and just slide it over our existing pipe and then we are going to take our bracket and slide it up over it and then we can tighten it down on to our muffler to make it a good seal tight. 02:50 Now we are going to put our MagnaFlow Exhaust in to place. You can put it whichever way you want that will best fit your needs. That is how you install this muffler and Exhaust cut out here. The way we did it, we are actually going to need to make an Exhaust hanger for it and you can probably just take your vehicle to any muffler shop and they can get one fabricated for you. It should not cost you that much. Now that we have it all installed we are going to show you a little bit of what it sounds like with the Exhaust. Then we are going to remove the Exhaust cut out and let you hear the sound of that as well. That concludes the installation for part numbers MF10784 and part number MF11226.





Magnaflow Exhuast Installation - 2006 Ford F150 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-Exhaust-system-Ford-F150.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to install part number 16612 from Magnaflow performance Exhaust. This is a catalytic converter on back of the Exhaust system placement for the stock Exhaust. Our first step is to go ahead and look over into the original Exhaust system. Make sure you can get the bolts loosened to make the connections up front. Then you will want to get yourself an idea on how to take off the Exhaust. What you want to do is see how the rods go into the hangers here. It looks like the all point ends on all of them are towards the front. So we want to take them off and shove them towards the axle. And since the rest of this pipe is going out back, it might be a good idea to cut this in half. So you can take this pipe off first and push it backwards. Then have room to pull the Exhaust muffler here backwards off the extension pipe coming off of the catalytic converter. That way we can take pieces off a lot easier then with just wrestling with one hole piece. It is a good idea to go ahead and spray down anything rusted so that we can get it apart a little easier. We will let it set there for a few minutes and then we will go ahead and break it loose. All you have to do is basically loosen this clamp up and then take a screw driver or something and kind of pull it apart a little bit to give it some extra wiggle room to pull out the old Exhaust. Next we are going to go ahead and make the cut right here so we can separate the 2 halves. Next we can go ahead and remove this tail pipe here. It would be a good idea to spray down the hanger here to help ease pulling it out. We will do the same thing for the muffler here. Spray down the hangers. And then, we will have to wrestle it off, going towards the axle. You might have to use some prying against the frame or a body component to get some pressure going that way because it is a tight fit. Next what we will do is go ahead and unbolt the rubber isolators from the frame to give us a little more wiggle room to get the Exhaust off. Next we can go ahead and install the original hangers back into place. Alright, now we can start installing the new Exhaust. You start on the original pipe and run the first section into the Exhaust hanger and just leave it loose for now and we will piece everything together. We will slide on the next portion and again we are leaving everything loose. We are just piecing it together for now. Sometimes you run yourself into a situation where it might be easier to take off the hanger off the vehicle, put it on the Exhaust, and then reattach it by that by re bolting it to the frame. Now go ahead and install the fourth piece. Once you have all the pieces in place, now you want to take some time out to move them around to make sure we are going in as much of a straight line as possible and away from moving parts or anything you do not want to get hot. Basically you want to keep minimum of a 1 inch distance from anything around it. Once you settle on the orientation of all the parts you want, go ahead and clamp everything down. We will start working on our clamps going from the the forward to the back of the vehicle. Once you get everything tightened down you might want to take a second look to make sure nothing has moved on you while you were tightening it down. Again make sure everything has stayed as far away as possible from moving objects and keep it as far as possible from the spare tire. Next thing to do is go ahead and start the engine and enjoy the new noise. There you have it for the install of part number 16612 from Maganaflow performance Exhaust.





Wiring Harness Installation- 2008 Ford Escape - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-wiring-install-2008-ford-escape-2.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2008 Ford Escape we are going to install part number 118430 from Tow Ready. This is our T-One wiring harness connector that is also a power converter. The first steps involved is opening the hatch of the vehicle and removing the two tail lights to get to our access points for our wiring connections. First we will take off the drivers side tail light. Just for now we are going to disconnect from the wire harness right here, this will actually be our connection points we are going to make. Then we will go over to the passenger side. :32 At this time we can go ahead and start installing our T-1 connector. We are going to start off back over on the drivers side. What we are going to do is our 4-pole in the cavity behind the bumper, same thing with the modulite itself, as well as 1/ 2 if the T connector with the green wire, that is going to go all the way down too. Now our connection point with the T connector with the yellow wire we are going to keep, and that is going to stay behind the tail light. We will go ahead and make our connections. These two will plug together, you might hear a small snap. This half is going to get plugged back into the tail light, but we can not do that yet because we have to install our ground. 1:04 The ground is going to go straight into the sheet metal here. Lets go ahead and reinstall our drivers side tail light. We will go underneath the vehicle now and run the green wire to the passenger side. We are going to route the green wire behind the fascia supports behind the bumper, all the way across. Next we will do the same thing with the 4-pole, but we will leave it by the hitch. Then, we will install our converter box and mount that permanently using the adhesive that comes with it. We are going to install it on the flat piece of sheet metal right back here. We will use some zip ties now and just zip tie it to the supports. Now we will push the other half of the T-One connector up through the tail light. Same thing as before, take the one matching end to the T connector and plug it into the factory wiring harness. We will take up any extra wire we have, take up the slack with a zip tie to keep it away from the Exhaust on the bottom. Same thing as the drivers side, install the wire harness to the back of the tail light. Back underneath the vehicle on the drivers side by the tail light we are going to go ahead and deal with the red wire and what it does. This wire goes up to the battery of the vehicle that powers the modulite. We are going to use a butt connector and the 10 gauge wire that came with the installation kit to attach to it. Throw some electrical tape around it and we will head up to the front of the vehicle. 2:45 We ran our wire up alongside the frame rail, keeping it away from the suspension and followed the factory wire harness whenever possible. We went through this cross member right here and alongside and above the gas tank, working our way from there. Then we pushed the rest of our bundle up into the engine compartment, so we will reach down and pull it out. We will tie it off here to keep it safe and out of the way. Then we will follow the wire harness up and around and tuck the wire behind the power box here. We will pull it out towards the battery, shorten it up, and on this end here we will install the fuse holder. It is pretty simple to do, cut the loop in half and on one side we will add a ring terminal and on the other a butt connector. With the butt connector end we will hook up to the black wire and cover it with electrical tape too. We are going to make our final connection to the battery. First, we will disconnect the negative terminal, so we will not shock ourselves working with the positive terminal. On the positive terminal we have a stud that we can attach our power wire too, it is a 6 milliliter thread, so we will use a nut and a washer from the local hardware store to attach to that. Put our ring terminal on there, a flat washer, and the nut. Once the terminals are reconnected to the battery we will install the fuse to the fuse holder and then check our work with the light tester on the 4-pole out back. There you have it for part number 118430 from Tow Ready.





Trailer Hitch Installation - 2008 Ford Edge - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2008-ford-edge-1.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2008 Ford Edge we are going to be installing Curt hitch part number 13060. We are underneath the vehicle, the first thing we want to do is lower down the dual Exhaust system. There are three hangers here at the rear that need to come down. There is one on the drivers side, passenger side, and one just forward of the dual Exhaust right in the middle. All three of those are going to need to come down. :23 To lower the Exhaust off its hangers we are going to use a spray lubricant like a WD-40 ans spray down the studs of the hangers. Then we will take a pry bar, or a set of pliers and separate the two pieces. Before I remove the Exhaust off of its third hanger you want to put a support strap across the main Exhaust tube here. The reason for this is that once we remove the Exhaust off of its third hanger the system will want to come down. If it falls too far it will damage it. :49 The next step with the Exhaust lowered is to go ahead and remove the heat shield from both sides of the vehicle. There are three bolts holding each heat shield into place. Also, on the inboard side there is a push fastener that is also holding it into place, so we want to go ahead and remove that as well. Over here on the drivers side you may have a wiring harness connected to the heat shield up here at the rear side of the heat shield. The heat shields will be going back up into position once we get the hitch up into place. With the heat shield removed we can point out the mounting locations for our trailer hitch. Looking over here on the driver side frame rail you can see we have a couple existing holes in the frame. We are going to be using the rear most ones and the forward most ones as our two attaching points here at the bottom of the frame. There is going to be a third attaching point at the rear side. We are going to have to use the hitch as a template to drill those holes out. That is going to be the same for the passenger side as well. Into those holes we are going to be ing the block along with the carriage bolt that are provided with the installation kit. 1:59 To get the carriage bolt and block assemblies inside the frame we are going to be using the 1/2 inch bolt leader which is provided with the installation kit. We are going to take and feed it out through the end of the bumper structure here. We will first take the block and slide it onto the bolt leader, followed by the carriage bolt which we are going to wrap around the threads of the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt. Okay, we want to take the other end of the bolt leader here and use that to pull the block and carriage bolt inside the frame and down into position. We are going to repeat that for the other mounting hole as well. We want to repeat that for the passenger side and then we will put the hitch up in position. We want to leave the bolts on each side loose for the time being, because the next step is to put the heat shield back into place. We want to take this heat shield and cut this tab off because the hole it was going into is now one of the attaching points for the trailer hitch. What we are going to do with the heat shield is pinch it in between the hitch and the frame. Then we would repeat that for the passenger side heat shield as well. With the heat shields back into place we can go ahead and tighten the bolts down. 3:13 If you follow that hitch along to the rear side you can see there is a third mounting hole, what we are going to need to do is use the hitch as a template and drill this hole out. You will need to drill it out with a 17/32 ths bit. I am going to make a 1/4 inch pilot hole first and then enlarge to a 17/32 ths. Now that we have all of our hardware in place we can start torquing our bolts down. You want to verify with the directions the specific torque rating for each individual bolt. With the bolts torqued down you just want to put our Exhaust system back up into place and our installation will be complete. Now that we have our hitch installed we are going to give you a couple final installed dimensions that will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going the measure 13-1/8 inches. From the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is approximately 6 inches. That will conclude the installation of Curt hitch part number 13060 on a 2008 Ford Edge.





How Car Exhaust System Works
Watch the animated video showing the working of an Exhaust system inside a car. Don't forget to share if you like it.





Magnaflow "not so simple" bolt on Catalytic Converter - DC2 Integra LS
Needed a few modifications to get the cat in but still better than my old OEM unit. I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor (http://www.youtube.com/editor)





Installing SLP Dual exhaust tips on 2008 Avalanche
SLP dual tip tailpipe installation on my 2008 Avalanche, I wanted to show how easy and sweet the dual tip assembly from SLP is. It replaces the resonator and tail pipe just past the rear axle. Not really any louder than the stock muffler, but looks way better than the lam factory setup. does sound a little deeper when idling but when cruzing I can't really notice any difference in sound, I am very happy and if you want to get rid of your ugly factory tail pipe I highly recommend installing this kit. V





How to Install the K&N FIPK Cold Air Intake System on an Acura Integra - AutoAnything How-To
Buy the K&N FIPK: http://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/61A1914A0A0.aspx The FIPK Intake is K&N's most advanced Air Intake. Today, we install it on a 1997 Acura Integra. Installation steps are similar for most vehicles, find one for your ride at AutoAnything: http://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/61A1914A0A0.aspx





DIY How to Install a Honda Catalytic Converter & Exhaust System (pt. 1)
A Do-It-Yourself tutorial on how to install a catalytic converter & aftermarket exgaust system on a 1991 Honda Accord. Press LIKE if this video helped you in any way. Thank you





Turboed Acura Integra
turboooo 2001 integra t3/t4 single turbo





2008 Mitsubishi Lancer ES [CVT] - Tsudo N1 Exhaust
There aren't many videos of the Tsudo N1 on a current gen Lancer, much less an installation video. So here ya go. There are NO other mods on this car. Everything is purely stock, except the Exhaust, of course. By the way, if you buy this Exhaust, you're probably going to have to do what I did and use a clamp or something to hold the Exhaust up, or else it'll probably end up falling off and you'll be dragging it down the road.





Must See! Gasket blows up in Integra and the kid decides to change it on the spot!
Auto show in Erie, PA, looks like he changed a few of those in his lifetime lol. Feel free to like my facebook page to see the photos behind the videos. http://www.facebook.com/antonbachukphotography





Honda civic hatch h2b exhaust install
Install of my vibrant muffler resonator, high end header with 2.5 mandrel bends. Vtec torque quarter mile builds new projects turbo Boost or na power racing illegal legal high rpm reving weight reduction winning loosing and much more just a sneak peak of the goods that are coming soon.





Catback Exhaust - Explained
What is a catback? How does a catback increase performance? Why should you get a catback Exhaust kit? This video explains the benefits of a cat back Exhausts, using a Yonaka Motorsports sourced cat back Exhaust for Acura Integras. Product Link: Yonaka Catback - http://www.yonaka.com/Yonaka_94_01_Integra_2DR_Catback_Exhaust_p/ymcb002.htm Yonaka Motorsports - http://www.yonaka.com/ -- Related Videos -- Performance Exhaust: http://youtu.be/Ivgp1LBsGEQ Exhaust Systems: http://youtu.be/e72Xkf_5VXo Catalytic Converter: http://youtu.be/HADOcrcMikA Please feel free to rate, comment, and subscribe! And don't forget to check out my Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/engineeringexplained Also check out my official website: Make suggestions, participate in forums, learn through logically ordered lessons, read FAQs, and plan your future! http://www.howdoesacarwork.com Now on Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/jasonfenske13 NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!





How to Install a Cat-back Exhaust System, 2010 Challenger
Visit http://www.gearheaddiva.com for more videos. This kick-awesome how-to video I put together shows you how to install a Mopar cat-back Exhaust system in to your late model challenger along with the tools you'll need and a few tips for avoiding some common "oops" moments. Installing an after-market Exhaust system will improve your car's performance and add a bit of horsepower in the process. Join me on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/gearheaddiva Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/gearheaddiva





Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?




Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1994 Acura Integra GS-R: 9.400 @ 154.550
Mike Carl, Engine: 1.8 LS/vtec, Turbos: T72 Tires: 28x10 Goodyear


1995 Acura Integra LS: 9.590 @ 152.450
Alexei Guinitaran, Engine: 1.8L LS VTEC, Turbos: S372 Tires: M/T


1994 Acura Integra : 10.020 @ 146.000
STEVE ASHER, Engine: 2.2 VTEC, Supercharger: NEVER Turbos: T-61 Tires: M&H


1998 Acura Integra Type R: 10.344 @ 148.390
Mike, Engine: B18C5, Supercharger: removed for turbo Turbos: aftermarket Tires: slicks


1998 Acura Integra Type-R: 10.980 @ 131.200
Mauro Anastasi, Engine: 1799cc, Supercharger: No Turbos: T34 Turbonetics Tires: M/T 24.5


2000 Acura Integra ls: 10.990 @ 127.260
steve graham, Engine: 1.8, Turbos: t60


1996 Acura Integra GSR: 11.011 @ 136.870
Ben DiSabatino IV, Engine: B18C1 81.5x87mm, Turbos: Garrett P-Trim T67 Ball Bearing Tires: MH 24.5x8.7x13


1997 Acura Integra RS Turbo GT3076: 11.400 @ 127.000
Eric Riemer, Engine: Sleeved B18B, Turbos: GT3076


2001 Acura Integra GSR Turbo: 11.485 @ 129.570
Deon Mitchell, Engine: B18 C1 Block B18C5 Head, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: Custom Dual BB T67 Tires: 245/40/18 BFG Drag Radials Front 215/35/18 Nittos


1996 Acura Integra rsT: 11.598 @ 123.220
bret read, Engine: 2.0 ls/vtec, Turbos: full-race t3/t67 ho Tires: 24.5x7x13s mt


1995 Acura Integra : 11.610 @ 125.000
Chris Quinn, Engine: B18C1, Turbos: T3/T4 Tires: 22X8 MH SLICK


1994 Acura Integra GSR: 11.628 @ 126.102
Morris Watson, Engine: B18C1, Supercharger: JRSC Tires: 205 45 17


1990 Acura Integra LS V-TEC: 11.673 @ 127.010
AMORIS MARTINEZ, Engine: B18A1 golden eagle sleeve, Turbos: TUBONETIC 66mm Tires: 215/55R14


1997 Acura Integra LS Notec: 11.676 @ 119.730
Tyler Wilsey, Engine: B18B1 (NOTEC), Turbos: Turbonetics T3/T04E 50 trim Tires: M/T 24.5


1995 Acura Integra ls: 11.700 @ 117.900
david robinson, Engine: 1.8L 4 cyl or b18b1, Turbos: turbonetics .50 Tires: m&h slicks


2000 Acura Integra GS-R: 11.904 @ 119.330
Jorge Llaguno, Engine: B18C1, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: Garrett T3/T04E 60-1 Tires: M&H Slicks


1993 Acura Integra Type R (RHD) K20 B00sted: 11.920 @ 121.326
Kyle clarkton, Engine: JDM K20A, Turbos: Garrett GT28R Ball Bearing Tires: 215/45/16 Dunlop DZ101


1997 Acura Integra : 11.960 @ 116.250
john gianukos, Engine: 1.8 liter inline 4, Turbos: t3/t4 to4b housing Tires: micky thompson mini slicks


1994 Acura Integra GS-R: 11.960 @ 118.000
John Gill, Engine: 1.8 GSR, Turbos: T3/60-1 Tires: Slicks


1995 Acura Integra GS-R: 12.000 @ 123.500
Mart_GS-R, Engine: B18C1, Turbos: T3/T4 Tires: Slicks M/T 24.5/8/15


 


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