Remote Control Electric Windows Closure on Rover 800 Coupe Alarm Key Fob

How to Close the Electric Windows with the Remote Control Key Fob on 1999 Rover 800 825 KV6 Coupe.

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ELECTRIC WINDOWS/SUNROOF BEEPING? Car Fix. Program Drivers Door Switches. Rover 800 820 825 827
This is how to stop your windows and/or sunroof from beeping on your Rover 800. I needed to do the ones on my Rover 800 (Zircon Silver Coupe No.1) after reconnecting the battery. This will usually solve the beeping (although it normally takes a few more goes!). If the windows do still beep, then you may have to remove the door panels and use some spray grease on the cables/mechanicals! Sometimes the drivers switch pack may need resoldering, as they do suffer from dry solder joints on occassion. (as you have two switches on each window in every car, then if one does work and one does not, then it is worth resoldering the one that does not fully function). Also some owners do seem to suggest problems occuring as a result of bad connections in the main fuse box too! So if the above stuff fails it will do you no harm to have that resoldered too!

Rover 825 Coupe
This is Rover 825 Coupe(1996r) in Oxfrd Blue Pearlescent paint. It has 2.5l 175bhp V6 engine :)

Rover 825 SDi
Rover 825 year 1998

Rover 800 Coupe. Anologue to Digital Clocks Conversion. 820 825 827 vitesse sterling.
I always wanted a digital clock for my 1999 Rover 800 Coupe, rather than the Anologue Clock that was standard on the late 800's. So, when a New Boxed one came up cheap on ebay, I just had to put in an offer. The seller accepted and the next day I received my £6.50 clock! Not a bad saving on the £92.87 list price! I was originally going to move the old clocks and switches down and fit this clock in (although that was going to take some modifying!), but as I needed a connecter for the clock (the digital has 4-wires as opposed to the three needed by the anologue clock.) I went off to the scrappers hoping to find a connecter in a Rover 200 or 400. Imagine my surprise to find a J-Reg Rover 800 with digital clock fitted. Its clock had some damage because someone had levered the radio out, but at least I got the connector I required for my New Clock! The car also had the correct switch housing / coin tray for fitting with the digital clock, and the plastic seperator that fits hidden between the clock and switch housing and holds them both in place. So I gladly handed over a fiver for the parts. Now the fitment was going to be so straightforward, I put the 2 extra wires in that I would need direct from the fuse box (one from the side lights {fuse 14}(connected to red/orange wire of top left connector) and one from the cig lighter socket {fuse 5}(connected to purple/red wire of bottom right connector)). The other 2 wires I needed were a constant live and an earth, these were both joined into the old clock wire. I took the side light feed from the fuse box, because the side light feed that goes to the anologue clocks is part of the dimmed lighting circuit, and the digital clock requires a constant 12v source. If the digital clock is wired to the variable voltage from the old anologue clock wiring, than as the dashboard is dimmed the clock gets brighter, and vice versa, and although it would work, does not look professionally fitted. The owner of the J-reg in the scrappers had in fact wired the connector into their car wrongly as they had joined two of the wires, and the way they had wired it, it would of only lit up with their lights on. The clock should in fact light up bright with the ignition, them dim when the cars lights are switched on. Once wired, fitting was straightforward and easy, as everything just pushes back into place (+ 1 screw to hold ashtray!). Life is far easier now, especially as I approach timed bus lanes etc, and know in an instant if I can use them. Beforehand I had to think where my clock was, then work out the time, this is far easier on my Brain Cells!