chevy 383 stroker

chevy 383 with ported 882 heads,lunati voodoo 60104 cam,comp ratio 10,3:1

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voodoo 383
383 sbc, Eagle crank, Eagle SIR bushed rods, hyper flat top pistons, Trick flow 195 street heads(smoothed and blended), lunati voodoo "268" cam, lifters, springs. Weiand stealth intake, Holley 700 DP, Summit brand chambered mufflers. Custom hillbilly backyard engine test stand.





Looking at my Chevy 383 Ported "Revised" Pro Comp Aluminum Heads rat rod sbc
I was asked what I do to port a set of Revised Pro Comp heads. There are so many things to touch upon but I'll just mention what I did on these to be quick. A little about me,,I've been building engines for 30 years now. I've been porting heads about 20 years. I try to keep up with whats going on and I continually study online. I buy new books and engine building software(Desk-top Dyno/Dragstrip,etc). I'm impressed with the software results. Anyway,,When I saw these heads online I wanted to see just how they stacked up to Darts,Brodix,Edelbrock,etc. I had also read where people were bashing them. Some said they were cheaply made castings, others bashed 'em because they're made overseas. Then later they re-emerged as "New & Improved". I have a friend that sells them online and he built up a 383 and we ported a set and they did very well,,especially for the {lack of) money. When I first looked at 'em I didn't like the areas in the ports that are under the valve seats. I point out the areas at the start of the vid. There are small areas under the valve seats that are noticably machined away. It's nothing to be concerned with as none have ever failed that I know of. There are great photos online that show these heads aggressively CNC Ported,they're so huge that the Intake Ports run into Int bolt hole bosses(I can email you the pics if you need them). Thats too big as they'll have to run sleeves in the mounting holes. Something that I recommend too is to look at the ports online of the major manufactuers of racing heads,,or if available look at ones being built at a local machine shop. When I port a set of heads I make a thickness gauge out of coat hangers. When finished it looks like an "X". It accurately reflects how thick the metal is while porting so that you don't go too far and it helps to get ports consistent ( I'll add that 'how too' later). One unusual thing that I do is lap the valves to the seats with an electric drill motor. It's reversible and takes just a second for each valve and seat to show the correct "grey ring". It takes about 3 minutes to do each head. The results are outstanding with the seats showing concentricity. Most local machine shops just cut the valves, then the seats,,then assemble them. If you do the solvent test they usually leak,,sometimes badly. Thats cylinder leak down,,less power,smoking,blow by,etc. So you get what you pay for. What I mean is that I ALWAYS disassemble the stuff at home and inspect the work. When I find a problem I take it back to the machine shop.Most machine shops don't like a guy who knows how to inspect the work. A good machine shop is really hard to find not just the work but the people there. I know of a few local machine shops in central Arkansas that will do bad work for one customer and great work for another intentially.A lot of times they're racing rivals. Remember, when you get crappy work and run it ~ it'll run crappy or not work,,or last very long. So when you take the stuff apart at home you can see who your friends are. I think it's important to spend your money where the quality of the work is at the forefront of the business.Thats why I drive to a good place with modern machines and trained people. You can have an intelligent conversation and get what you ask and pay for. One more thing,,Try my drill method for lapping the valves,,it works really smoothly.Second thing,,the old notion of polishing the ports has been proven wrong scientifically,especially on the Intakes. They need a slight texture,,look up why.Too much to go into here. Theres even guys who epoxy pebbles or marbles on the bottoms of their racing boats to ride more on air,,reducing friction. On the motor,, I'll start the engine in the next few days and then later toss it into an 86 S-10. It'll have an old school turbo 350 with shift kit and an old Vega Stall Convertor. I can port a set of these heads in a day and a half for about $300.oo The Iron stock type heads are harder and take more time and cost a little more. I've ported about 30 sets now and got to run half of them and got to see how they do. Porting works! and makes quite a difference. Thanks for looking.





Building a 1979 - 1984 Chevy 383 Stroker K20 4WD
The build of my Chevy K20 4WD back in 2002-2003, put to the infamous Johnny Cash song "One Piece At A Time". Final product was a Chevy 4wd 3/4 ton pickup built from choice parts of 3 separate pickups of 3 different model years. Original truck was a rusted-out blue 1979 Chevy K20 3/4 ton pickup. Motor built was a 350 (5.7 liter) Chevy, that was stroked to 383 cu in, with 10.25 to 1 compression ratio, a NP205 bulletproof 4wd transfer case, and a turbo 400 trans. Thx for watching and ratings/comments welcome!





357 w/ Vortec heads running on stand
1974 police 350 block, bored .040", balanced, 10:1, Vortec heads, Lunati 268 Voodoo cam, Summit Stage 1 intake.




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