ik i have a intake gasket leak...i gotta torque the bolts down some more ive eliminated all other Boost leaks...but with Boost leaks ive never encountered the rpms jerk this way....nor have i encountered an idle like this..its almost like a miss but i know its not...
rs bov set to stock
2g exhuast manifold
timing is dead on, new spark wires, new ngkr plugs
think it could be the idle control on the ecu???
also i just recently rebuilt the head and the block has about 9k miles on it
Automotive Repair: Testing ECM Inputs and Outputs
For lots more, join our online community for FREE at
Modern cars use dozens of electronic control units to perform a variety of
functions, from engine management to infotainment. Generally, these modules
are pretty tough but they still fail. The mistake is in replacing the
failed ECU without making sure you know what caused it to fail! Any of its
input or ouput devices could be the cause of its untimely demise. This
webinar shows how to make sure you don't fry the most expensive fuse on the
car! Click this link to subscribe to Motor Age! http://bit.ly/MA_YT_freesub
Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool.
This is the second part of the Boost
leak testing series. In this video, several examples of possible leaks you
might find are exhibited, as well as suggested fixes. Hopefully this video
helps turbo cars around the world to be
healthier and more powerful.
Boost Leak Testing 101: Building the tool.
If your intake isn't sealed up and completely air-tight, then your turbo is working harder to produce fewer
results. This is a tool used to verify the integrity of the intake, and to
find trouble spots that need attention.
When your turbo is busting its fins to
compress air, why not make all that air go where it belongs... with more
fuel... to make more boom.
This version of the tester with clamp-style tire valve stems in the cap is
ideal because after you have the intake charge (from an unregulated
source), the schrader valve allows you to disconnect the air hose you're
charging it (silencing the hiss of it) so you can hear where small pesky
leaks might be hiding. Testers without the clamp valve are a waste of
The parts list is available here:
Boost leaks can cause idle problems,
misfires, backfiires, squeaks, quacks, honks, or even seem like nothing at
all is wrong except your time slip is a second off at the track.
Everywhere one part of anything bolts to another on the intake, it's an
opportunity for Boost leaks. I've
blown Intercoolers apart.
Not the couplers, the end tanks. Ever wondered what PSI the wastegate
actuator's really opening at from standing over it in the engine bay?
Build this tool.
Until you've verified this on your equipment, you have no idea.... Every
car I've ever tested has Boost-leaked out the Yen-Yang.
How to de-solder and repair broken Bosch EDC15C2 ECU from 2.0 HDI.
Here is a video/picture guide showing the steps required to remove the
Flash chip after a failed write due to a bad remap file with incorrect
Equipment required: Hot air soldering station, copper soldering wick, flux
pen, soldering iron, lead solder, Willem programmer with PSOP44 adaptor.
Not to be attempted by the inexperienced, practice on an old circuit board
For custom remaps visit www.hdi-tuning.co.uk
DSM no compression....
No compression sound...DSM 95 eagle talon (2gb)Eclipse conversion..Bent
valves not seating in the head....
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L (Video 1)
ok so this vid car is at 4,000 rpm... when it gets there i'm holding the
gas steady and its reving up / down on its own ... anyone who knows what
might be causing this please comment below or message me!
Ive basically replaced every part on the motor (external) in attempts to
find the issue ... the reason i bought all the parts was one day it would
act like it was say having a misfire so i replaced cap rotor plugs wires
and it would fix the issure for a while then go back to this ... but here
is the list
one thing to be noted when this all started i drove the car with no issues
just like the past year and a half since i got the car then the next
morning when i went to start it the ECU fried... the awesome smell of fried
electrical componets filled the car :P *sarcasm* so the ECU was replaced
along with the list below... the ecu is the same model / part / serial
number as the one i had originally
New battery, alternator, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, fuel pump
relay, fuel pump, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, mass air flow
sensor i think thats it all i can remember at the moment ... also there is
no "check engine" light or codes please help :P
eclipse wont rev
FIXED the issue it was just Boost
leaks!!! this car is a 95 eclipse gsx with a 6 bolt swap and is otherwise
stock besides a 16g at 10psi.
This car is having revving issues, turbo
wont spool, idles irratic, and gets terrible gas mileage(runs rich)
Cant figure out whats causing this issue. allready checked: timing, turbo, maf, Exhaust, spark plugs, wires.
My guess is its fuel related, bad ecu, bad ignition coil but really dont
DSM Eclipse GSX 9.65@148mph incar
So much fun!!
Stock 4bolt rear end. Stock axles.
Still syncro gearbox self rebuilt w/ double syncro 2nd gear.
Self built motor. Eagle rods and std. wiseco pistons.
HOW TO Reset "ECU" Engine Control Unit To Factory Settings 97-03 BMW 5-SERIES E39 528I 540I M5 M52
Engine control unit
Thumbnail3:06 HOW TO Remove Upper Trim Pillar And L...
WHAT TO DO
1. Turn key to position right before car turns on
2. Floor gas pedal for 5 seconds
3. Turn key back to off position
4. Release gas pedal
5 wait two min
6 remove key
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3 Series, 5 Series, 6 Series, 7 Series, M5, 97-03 ,BMW, 5 Series E39, 528i,
E46, E36, E38, M5,1997,2000, BMW, 5 SERIES ,E39, 528I, 525I ,530I ,540I ,M5
1g dsm hard start and idle surge with a rich fuel air mixture
so got this car this last summer and rebuilt the top end of the motor.
After the rebuild been having trouble getting it to run smoothly not to
mention the tcu crapped it's self but I have a shift box on the way for
that. Really need help getting the fuel air ratio right then I can start
all the other mods I have planed and will share :)
Troubleshooting a broken ECU (Engine Control Unit)
Here's a video of how I found the fault with my car's engine control unit
or ECU, to discover why my engine was not running, there's some information
that may help any amateur home mechanic. After replacing my air flow meter,
distributor cap, rotor button, coil ignition lead, and discovering a good
supply of fuel, I worked out it was most likely to be the ECU (Engine
Control Unit). It may have been quicker to troubleshoot the issue if I had
tested the ECU for error codes first, but this is how I got around it by
eliminating various engine and fuel management components.
Mitsubishi Eclipse 1998 Bad Idle High idle
Forgot to mention that when i turn on my AC the car drops down to 1500 but
then out of no where it raises back again to 2500
BTW i tried the BISS and it was all the way in if i loosen it the car idle
and the leak i may have is from turbo
pipe to Intercooler...
it hisses when i rev past 4000 and then the car starts misfiring and
the cars getting on my nerves but...
what can i do helppp!!!
Parts Car Test Drive: 0-90 in an Eagle Talon TSi AWD Turbo Automatic Parts for Sale
954-448-5579 Parts For Sale: 1994 Eagle Talon TSi AWD turbo Automatic Green on Gray Velour. It has
damage on the passenger's side door and quarter panel which deemed it a
total loss according to USAA. I have plenty of parts for Eagle Talons,
Mitsubishi Eclipses, and Plymouth Lasers, both turbo FWDs and turbo AWDs, Automatics and 5-speeds. Please call
or text the above number for pricing and availability. Thank you, Chris @