Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint all depressed cause I seen this before.
I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
If anything you could say that this bling is rare,
and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
Many of you have seen this one before. I apologize if bringing it back
Domestickilla gave me a crankshaft, and it's a nice one that I want to
clean up and use again. You'll be seeing a lot of it and because of this,
this video deserves to be here. I fixed what I broke, and this was my
In this video Ballos Precision Machine demonstrates magnetic dye penetrant
testing, crankshaft polishing and inspecting the balance of a "butchered"
4g63 6-bolt crankshaft.
Turbo Elantra Bearing Failure Diagnosis
I had time to look at this thing up close. Go through the oil system, and
check out all the bearings. Looks like another good study for my oil
system series because it's the opposite problem that my GSX experienced.
High oil pressure can be remedied a number of ways, but left unchecked can
actually take a toll on your bearings. The way your engine bearings work,
the parts they suspend are supported only by an oil film layer, and flow
needs to be right in order for it to work as an actual bearing. If the oil
supply is insufficient, then it loses the ability to suspend the part
causing it to crash into the bearing surface. If oil flow is too great,
friction is increased, the flow becomes turbulent, and the oil film doesn't
form properly. High oil pressure can float and spin rod bearings, and
that's worst-case scenario.
I had several un-favorable conditions going on inside this engine and that
makes it a little bit difficult to link what my engine experienced to any
one singular thing. I think it's easier to look at it like some sort of
From sub-standard parts for how the engine components would be used, to oil
pressure, to part fatigue, to part history to abuse... this thing's got a
little bit of everything working against it and that's why it's such a
hilarious car. It was given to me with one condition. "See what this
thing will do, and see how long it goes before it breaks." My take on it
is, the parts are still less than ideal, and they've still got life left in
them. It's worth fixing. These parts are worthless as a race motor, and
normally I'd have junked 'em, but it's the Hyundai.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an
original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate.
My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I
do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again.
Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead
and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings
will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a
hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first.
The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows:
Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust
and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral
spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale.
The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence
happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from
powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If
following these instructions to the letter of the law.
Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine.
You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm
not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I
don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the
windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down
This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the
same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent.
You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY
CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in
this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that
I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm
learning about it just like the rest of you.
Boost Leak Testing 202: Hair Spray 1080HD
Why do I know about this?
I'm tired of being the one knowing all the weird crap. If everyone knows
it, it won't be weird anymore. It will be commonplace. By the time I'm
done sealing up all of my own Boost
leaks, all of you will also be experts as well. I'm sure most of you would
teach me something, too... but you subscribed, so here it comes...
something I learned in my travels...
Also, thanks Ilya M. I've only heard about it twice in my life. It worked
great for the one time I've ever needed it, and I'm a huge fan.
► Bentley Factory - W12 Engine
► If you love cars, you should subscribe now to YouCar's channel:
Go ahead, it's free!
All the Best.
Grinding Oil Return Channels
I started cleaning the rust out, and got carried away. I didn't want to do
as extensive of a cleanup job as I did on the GSX, but still wanted to make
improvements because of the kinds of oil-related problems it experienced.
There's a method to this madness. It will make more sense once I get
around to bolting the oil pan back on. The techniques in this video are
things I had to do right now if I was going to do them at all. Some of
them really needed to be done anyway.
You really don't see people do these tricks on imports. Just because you
don't see it, it doesn't mean it can't help. I hope you enjoyed the motor
oil drag races in the middle of the video. They speak for the science
behind this mod... without having to get all scientific. Those results
speak clearly for themselves, and there's plenty of chances to get
scientific as the Glyptal treatment of the GSX is completed.
In this video...
I used steel wire cup brushes for both an air DIY grinder, and a Dremel to
remove the rust.
I used a cone-shaped carbide double-cut burr to smooth the crankcase.
I polished the crankcase with coarse and medium sanding rolls for both an
air DIY grinder and a Dremel.
I used a 1/4" ball carbide double-cut burr to grind the channel.
I used a pack of Harbor Freight #95947 10-Piece Tube Brush Kit.
CAT Engine Teardown TimeLapse
This CAT diesel engine had a million miles on it and was in perfect
condition upon inspection. Sindall Transportation in New Holland, PA did
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Jafro's GSX Build Parts - 1gina2g
Some advice and expectations about the parts acquisition process. Cars
only get built in a week on TV. And still then you have to take their word
for it. The ones that actually do it have a 20 man full-time crew, and
therefore; they have no excuse for not having it done yet.
We don't have that. Stuff takes time. I'm not building a car to sell it.
There's a whole lot of parts in this video. Whole lot of parts. Rather
than spend a ton of space babbling incessantly, this is what you came here
for. Part numbers. Meat. This isn't an all-inclusive list of parts for a
rebuild. It's what YouTube let me fit. I hope you find what you needed.
If not, hang tight. Help is on the way.
Shoutout to Sirnixalot in the Cayman Islands for this thread about
valvetrain part weights:
MF140202 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Flange M6 x 10 (2qty)
MD012109 - Bolt, Engine RR Plate Washer Assembled 6 x 16 (2qty)
MF140202 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6 x 10 (4qty)
MD167134 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (2qty) Flange M6 x 8
MD097012 - Bolt, Engine Oil Pan (17qty) Flange M6x10
MD131417 - Bolt, Timing Belt Cover Flange M6x16
MD040557 - Bolt, Flywheel (6qty) M12x22.5
MS401451 - Stud, M10 x 28 Cylinder Block
MD065945 - Plug, Cylinder Block Screw (balance shaft)
MS240211 - Bolt, Crankshaft Pulley Washer Assembled M8x25 (4qty)
MD129350 - Bolt, Timing Belt Tensioner (2qty) M8x51
MD129354 - Bolt, Timing Belt Train M10x33 Happy Face Bolt
MF140062 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M10x30
MF140225 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x20 (4qty)
MF140227 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x25
MF140233 - Bolt, Engine Front Case M8x40
MF241266 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x65
MF241261 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x40 (2qty)
MF241268 - Bolt, Oil Filter Washer Assembled M8x75
MF241264 - Bolt, Washer Assembled M8x55
MF140021 - Bolt, Cooling Water Line Flange M8x12
MF241256 - Bolt, M/T Clutch Slave Cylinder Washer Assembled M8x28
MD718549 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x130 (3qty)
MF241319 - Bolt, Transfer Case Washer Assembled M12x70 (4qty)
MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60
MD108474 - Bolt, Starter Flange M10x65 (2qty)
MF140266 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x40 (2qty)
MD740892 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x43.5
MF140471 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M10x65
MD706012 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x60
MF140021 - Bolt, T/M Connecting Flange M8x12
6-bolt Rear Main Seal Housing:
MF140205 - Bolt, Cylinder Block Flange M6 x 16 (5qty) Rear Oil Seal Case
MD040330 - Case, Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
MD040332 - Oil Separator Crakshaft rear oil seal
MF472403 - Pin Cylinder Block Dowel 6x14mm (2qty)
MD183243 - Gasket, Rear Oil Seal Case
7-bolt Rear Main Seal Case MD172170*
* oil separator ring only required on 6-bolt cars, same oil seal, different
Throttle Body Gasket:
8903.1-9006.1 MD125822 1g
9006.2-9207.3 MD146399 1g (AC60-653)
9208.1-9405.1 MD194578 1g
9401.1-9907.2 MD180360 all 2g cars (MD1)
Intake Elbow Gasket:
8903.1-9207.3 MD340327 1g
9208.1-9405.1 MD194827 1g
9401.1-9907.2 MD302262 all 2g cars
MD307343 - OE Valve Stem Seals (16qty)
MD087060 - OE Fuel Injector Insulator (4qty)
MD614813 - OE Fuel Injector O-Ring (4qty)
MD181032 - Gasket, Exhaust Manifold
MD188995 - Gasket, 1g Intake Manifold
MD192031 - Gasket, 2g Intake Manifold
MD183808 - Gasket, Standard Composite Head Gasket 89-99
MD069879 - 1g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit
MD177572 - 2g Sensor Coolant Gauge Unit
MD310606 - 1g/2g alternator belt 985mm
MD186124 - 1g/2g alternator belt 980mm
MD186784 - 1g/2g Valve Cover Gasket
MD186785 - 1g/2g Spark Plug Well Gaskets (4qty)
MN119896 - 1g tensioner arm
MD170402 - 2g tensioner arm
MD997608 - 1g thermostat kit
MD315301 - 2g Thermostat Kit
MD141510 - 1g Knock Sensor
MD300670 - 2g Knock Sensor
MD133273 - 1g/2g Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor
MD091056 - 1g/2g Coolant Temperature Switch
MD095656 - 6 bolt clutch cover plate
MD191171 - 7 bolt clutch cover plate
MD178430 - 1g Power Steering Belt
MD310617 - 2g Power Steering Belt
MD311638 - Oil filter cap gasket
MD343564 - Oil Seal, Crankshaft Rear
MD030764 - O-ring, Cooling Water Pipe 33.4mm
MD375091 - EVO 8 Rocker Arm
Blueprint 101 - Using Micrometers, Calipers, & Bore Gauges
If you're going to rebuild an engine, this video is required material.
None of your measurements mean anything if they're not accurate. I
illustrate the calibration and use of 3 major tools needed for taking
measurements, and a brief demonstration of how they work. These are by no
means the ONLY ways to use or calibrate these tools. This is simply the
method I will employ to measure parts in later videos so this instruction
doesn't distract from their intended messages. Even if you're familiar
with these tools, you may find something useful here, or even be able to
correct me and my rusty skills.