Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint all depressed cause I seen this before.
I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
If anything you could say that this bling is rare,
and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
1998 Civic Engine Tear Down (Part 4) - EricTheCarGuy
Link to full engine R&R video:
Remember this guy? Yep since I'm moving I had my scrap picked up and this
was still in the shop collecting dust so I decided to do the tear down on
it, I'm glad I did because I got a nice little keepsake out of it. BTW
don't yell at me for using my impact lets face it, this engine is scrap!
Click below and Stay Dirty
Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com
Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum
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Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a
Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an
original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate.
My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I
do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again.
Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead
and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings
will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a
hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first.
The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows:
Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust
and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral
spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale.
The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence
happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from
powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If
following these instructions to the letter of the law.
Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine.
You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm
not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I
don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the
windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down
This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the
same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent.
You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY
CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in
this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that
I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm
learning about it just like the rest of you.
CAT Engine Teardown TimeLapse
This CAT diesel engine had a million miles on it and was in perfect
condition upon inspection. Sindall Transportation in New Holland, PA did
music by: Booker T. & the MG's
Tom's Turbo Garage: Eagle Talon AWD Turbo Upgrade - Part Two
In this episode, we finish the T3 based PTE 6266 turbo upgrade on my DSM. After getting all of the
parts bolted in, we go for a road test to get the initial ECMLink tune
You can see a complete modification list and many more photos and details
For more details on my DIY water alcohol injection setup, please visit
Thanks for watching!
Building our "Nasty" 4G63 cylinder head at Force Engineering
This is a Time lapse video of Force Engineering building the "Nasty" 4G63
cylinder head. Video includes Valve job, un-shrouding, porting, decking,
cleaning and assembly. All video was taken on site at Force Engineering.
Actual time involved was about 10 hours worth of work.
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF I'm going to be preparing any food while she fixes my car. I
would never change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use
cookware to catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
Cylinder Head 203 - Valve & Spring Installation
There are 2 critical values in getting your valvetrain geometry correct.
Valve install height and spring install height. On some models of cylinder
heads, getting these values is easier than it is on a 4g63 cylinder head.
On the first Glyptal video, you heard me complain about the complexity of
the casting and how hard it was to reach all the nooks and crannies while
applying that coating. The casting is very complex on a 4g63 head. There
are hydraulic galleries for the lifters elevated above the valvetrain
surface which make accessing each valve bore with precision measurement
tools very difficult. It's because of this that you need to do some math
to get these values correct.
Stuart is going to show you the process for obtaining the stem height and
spring height values on a 4g63 head. Using these numbers you can determine
other work necessary to correct the spring height value to correct seat
pressure, and ensure you have adequate valve travel for your springs to
It looks like rocket surgery, but really it's pretty simple. The ultimate
goal is to get every valve spring in as close proximity to one another as
you can, while doing your best to nail the recommended specification
PROVIDED BY THE VALVE SPRING MANUFACTURER.
Loose valve springs can result in leaky valve seats, valve bounce and
deflection that will drastically shorten the life of the valvetrain. If
valve bounce is severe, it can cause engine-killing interference with the
Tight valve springs can cause excessive valvetrain vibration generated by
the force necessary for the camshafts to push them open. On the narrow
side of the spectrum this can increase friction on the cams which can wipe
lobes and shorten their lifespan, and on the severe end in not only
increases the likelihood of wiping a cam lobe, it can lead to binding valve
springs and crashing the valvetrain.
You have to hit the sweet spot.
Valve springs specifications include several variables that help you
achieve these goals. The manufacturer rates their springs for their
installed pressure and height. They have a compression limit referred to
as valve spring bind which tells you how far you can compress them from
their installed height before the coils begin to bind and the spring stops
The valve springs used in this video are rated at 97lbs @ 1.440" installed,
and .500" lift. This means they should bind at .940", but my cams will
only generate .433" lift, giving me plenty of head room at the top (.067")
to prevent binding if they are installed correctly. One thing we found
which I wasn't expecting is they're a little on the stiff side of spec. We
measured 100lbs at 1.452", so rather than risk setting them up too tight,
that's where we set our tight specification. This decision was made
because if the rated pressure is lower than our actual measurements, this
would in theory decrease the lift specification and increase the
possibility of binding. Our install pressure ended up still higher than
spec with a barely-larger-than-spec spring installed height.
I don't consider this a defect. It is close enough within the margin of
error that it shouldn't cause any problems, and anyone doing this job right
will measure and check all of these specifications to ensure these parts
are what they say they are. That's what you watched us do. I'm confident
that this will work because the 4g63 utilizes a hydraulic self-adjusting
If the stem height is too high, it can be reduced by grinding the ends of
the valve stems to shorten them. This will have no affect on spring
installed height when the parts are assembled, however; it will change the
amount on paper that you'd need to subtract from the stem height in order
to accurately calculate spring installed height. If any of the valves have
been ground to shorten their stem height, all of the valves should be
measured separately with their retainers and keepers assembled, and that
new value subtracted from stem height individually to obtain each spring
installed height. You can't reduce this value any other way short of
replacing the valve seat.
If the valve stem height is too low, you can modify the valve seat or
machine the valve spring perches (seat or retainer) to increase the size of
the spring installed height. Another method would be to cut the valve seat
deeper to recess the valve.
In my video, we show this whole process on a brand new set of Supertech
valves. All of them are identical, and all of the retainers are new and
identical. Because of this (and yes we checked it), and because no valves
required any grinding, we only needed to use one value in our math for all
Hopefully this video clears up the process and covers the options available
for making changes if they're necessary. If you land within 3% of spec,
you've done your diligence in achieving correct valvetrain geometry.
Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech
How to clean, inspect, and determine what you can do with your cylinder
head. Also how WHAT you do affects your oil system. There are many
variables at play when you make changes to your cylinder head deck from
your oil system, compression ratio, your valve timing and potentially even
disaster. 'best not to go that far with it. Watch this video and avoid it
if you're building your own 4g63 head.
The differences between this head and a 1g head are mostly related to port
sizes on the intake and Exhaust, and
different sized head bolt holes. The 7-bolt uses an 11mm bolt, and a
6-bolt uses 12mm. 1g heads have gigantic intake ports, but aside from
that, valve geometry, oil system functionality and the service limits are
all the same.
Also, click these links for in-depth discussions about oil port
modifications for all generations of Mitsubishis, and specifically for 2g
head installations on a 1g block.
4g63 Oil Port Modification:
2nd gen head on a 6-bolt block:
Possibly 2 of the best threads on 'Tuners for anyone considering a
1g-in-a-2g or for anyone that wants to know everything about a DSM oil
WORLDS FASTEST AWD / 4G63 DATSUN / 20B RX7 IN TESTING
Willowbank Raceway held the 1st of the 2012 Top Sportman Series on the
weekend. Reece McGregor and the Heat Treatments Skyline thought it would be
a good chance to have some test runs in their worlds fastest RB26 powered
4wd skyline. The team worked hard all day and were rewarded with a final
pass or 7.64, not far off their 7.56 record, although something tells me
theres plenty more to come from this car again.
Another car using the test lane was Rob Novak in his Jett Racing 4G63
powered Datsun 1200. The team made adjustments through the day and saw a PB
7.35 @ 187mph on the second last pass of the night, the final wild pass on
video then saw a transmission failure but a happy team none the less.
Final team testing was the Direct Clutch/Promodz Rx7, the car is 3/4
chassis and a running 3rotor 20BT tweaked by Mazfix. The team recently made
adjustments in the rear and also in transmission and are starting to see
results, it ran a 7.99 @ 171mph through the day, then later in the night
suffered a leaking Boost pipe.
Owners Jerry and Dan tell me they havent even started to push the motor
yet, so another car with plenty more to come, and im sure that pb 7.80 will
soon be slashed.
These cars should all be running at the up and coming Sydney Jamboree at
WSID and by the looks of things have some unfinished business they want to
take care of :)
Block Preparation Part 2 - 1gina2g Timing Side
RRE Method: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm
Technically, I'm doing the Magnus method, but my wiring will be very
All 1g cars use the same water pump, and naturally they use the same water
pump bolts as well. I use the 1g tensioner arm because it clears the water
pump without any grinding of either one of those parts.
1g Water Pump
1g Water Pump Bolts
1g Timing Tensioner Arm
This 2g timing mount assembly includes a tensioner arm, washer, pivot bolt,
idler pulley and bolt.. You won't need the included tensioner arm with my
method. It doesn't come with the studs on the top, so you'd need to buy a
pair of those.
Complete 2g Timing Mount Assembly
Engine Mount Studs
Depending on whether you're installing a 1g 6-bolt or a 1g 7-bolt engine
block in your 2g chassis, you're going to need the front case and hydraulic
tensioner that matches the block you're using.
Front Case Assemblies
MD129347 (6-bolt straight cut gears)
MD175762 (6-bolt helical cut gears)
MD327450 (7-bolt helical for 1g block)
1g Hydraulic Tensioner
1g Hydraulic Tensioner Bolts
MD129350 x2 6-bolt
MD190987 x2 7-bolt
You can modify a 2g lower timing cover to make it fit, but it won't line up
around the bottom of the front case. That's why I use the 1g timing cover,
and modify it to fit the 2g middle cover.
Since you need metal covers against the block to have something to bolt the
plastic parts to, let's start with those. The rear metal cover that bolts
to the head is exactly the same part for both 1g and 2g cars. With my
method, you need to use the 2g front metal cover in order to line up with
the 2g middle plastic cover. So all of the plates that bolt to my swap are
from a 2g.
1g2g Timing Middle Cover, Rear (metal)
2g Timing Middle Cover, Front (metal)
2g Timing Lower Cover, Rear (metal)
For the plastic part of the covers, my method dictates that you use the 1g
lower timing cover assembly. This lines up all of the bolt holes and makes
it fit around the bottom of the front case where the oil pan is. If you
modify the lower cover to fit with the middle 2g cover, you won't need to
trim anything else.
The upper timing cover you need may depend on which head and valve cover
Lower Timing Cover Assembly
MD141454 1g 6-bolt block
MD193995 1g 7-bolt block
2g Middle Timing Cover Assembly
MD191811 - 9401.1-9606.3
MD191807 - 9607.1-9912.9
Upper Timing Cover WITH Rubber Gaskets
1g - MD141457 6-bolt head
1g - MD188127 7-bolt head
2g - MD198031
This is a good place to transition into the rubber parts because the rubber
pieces are very different for the 1g and 2g upper timing covers. If you
don't want a rattling, buzzing, noisy valve cover sounding off with every
vibration from your car, you should replace all of the rubber. It dry rots
and turns hard. If you bought a complete 1g engine gasket set and you have
both timing covers already, then you should have the 1g portion of these
rubber gaskets included in your gasket set.
If you've already got both generations of the timing covers like I do, and
no good rubber gaskets, then order all of these parts and stop the rattles.
However, if you bought any of the plastic timing cover parts new from the
dealer, then those plastic parts come with the rubber gaskets included.
You can eliminate them from your order.
* If you bought a complete 1g plastic lower
timing cover, you don't need the 1g gaskets.
Upper Timing Cover Gaskets by themselves...
1g - MD031235 & MD122058 6-bolt head
1g - MD188123 & MD188124 7-bolt head
2g - MD188122
Now for the last part. Fasteners. These are all of the upper, middle and
lower timing cover bolts whether they bolt down metal or plastic parts.
I've included their lengths and diameters so you can identify them.
All Timing Cover Bolts
MF140216 x1 6x45 (middle cover)
MF140202 x4 6x10
MF140206 x9 6x18
MF140209 x2 6x25
MF140210 x2 6x28
MF247868 x2 6x25
MD131417 x2 6x16