Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint all depressed cause I seen this before.
I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
If anything you could say that this bling is rare,
and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
Many of you have seen this one before. I apologize if bringing it back
Domestickilla gave me a crankshaft, and it's a nice one that I want to
clean up and use again. You'll be seeing a lot of it and because of this,
this video deserves to be here. I fixed what I broke, and this was my
In this video Ballos Precision Machine demonstrates magnetic dye penetrant
testing, crankshaft polishing and inspecting the balance of a "butchered"
4g63 6-bolt crankshaft.
How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has its rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
keywords: turbocharger dsm eclipse talon
awd gsx tsi fwd gst mitsubishi evo evolution lancer 14b 20g td06 td06h td05
install installation upgrade race vs Boost supra wrx sti toyota subaru Dyno laser rs rst 13g hx35 hx40
holset 18g 25g sbr t25 stock replace rebuilding big large nissan 240sx t28
CAT Engine Teardown TimeLapse
This CAT diesel engine had a million miles on it and was in perfect
condition upon inspection. Sindall Transportation in New Holland, PA did
1998 Civic Engine Tear Down (Part 4) - EricTheCarGuy
Link to full engine R&R video:
Remember this guy? Yep since I'm moving I had my scrap picked up and this
was still in the shop collecting dust so I decided to do the tear down on
it, I'm glad I did because I got a nice little keepsake out of it. BTW
don't yell at me for using my impact lets face it, this engine is scrap!
Click below and Stay Dirty
Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com
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4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
Cylinder Head 203 - Valve & Spring Installation
There are 2 critical values in getting your valvetrain geometry correct.
Valve install height and spring install height. On some models of cylinder
heads, getting these values is easier than it is on a 4g63 cylinder head.
On the first Glyptal video, you heard me complain about the complexity of
the casting and how hard it was to reach all the nooks and crannies while
applying that coating. The casting is very complex on a 4g63 head. There
are hydraulic galleries for the lifters elevated above the valvetrain
surface which make accessing each valve bore with precision measurement
tools very difficult. It's because of this that you need to do some math
to get these values correct.
Stuart is going to show you the process for obtaining the stem height and
spring height values on a 4g63 head. Using these numbers you can determine
other work necessary to correct the spring height value to correct seat
pressure, and ensure you have adequate valve travel for your springs to
It looks like rocket surgery, but really it's pretty simple. The ultimate
goal is to get every valve spring in as close proximity to one another as
you can, while doing your best to nail the recommended specification
PROVIDED BY THE VALVE SPRING MANUFACTURER.
Loose valve springs can result in leaky valve seats, valve bounce and
deflection that will drastically shorten the life of the valvetrain. If
valve bounce is severe, it can cause engine-killing interference with the
Tight valve springs can cause excessive valvetrain vibration generated by
the force necessary for the camshafts to push them open. On the narrow
side of the spectrum this can increase friction on the cams which can wipe
lobes and shorten their lifespan, and on the severe end in not only
increases the likelihood of wiping a cam lobe, it can lead to binding valve
springs and crashing the valvetrain.
You have to hit the sweet spot.
Valve springs specifications include several variables that help you
achieve these goals. The manufacturer rates their springs for their
installed pressure and height. They have a compression limit referred to
as valve spring bind which tells you how far you can compress them from
their installed height before the coils begin to bind and the spring stops
The valve springs used in this video are rated at 97lbs @ 1.440" installed,
and .500" lift. This means they should bind at .940", but my cams will
only generate .433" lift, giving me plenty of head room at the top (.067")
to prevent binding if they are installed correctly. One thing we found
which I wasn't expecting is they're a little on the stiff side of spec. We
measured 100lbs at 1.452", so rather than risk setting them up too tight,
that's where we set our tight specification. This decision was made
because if the rated pressure is lower than our actual measurements, this
would in theory decrease the lift specification and increase the
possibility of binding. Our install pressure ended up still higher than
spec with a barely-larger-than-spec spring installed height.
I don't consider this a defect. It is close enough within the margin of
error that it shouldn't cause any problems, and anyone doing this job right
will measure and check all of these specifications to ensure these parts
are what they say they are. That's what you watched us do. I'm confident
that this will work because the 4g63 utilizes a hydraulic self-adjusting
If the stem height is too high, it can be reduced by grinding the ends of
the valve stems to shorten them. This will have no affect on spring
installed height when the parts are assembled, however; it will change the
amount on paper that you'd need to subtract from the stem height in order
to accurately calculate spring installed height. If any of the valves have
been ground to shorten their stem height, all of the valves should be
measured separately with their retainers and keepers assembled, and that
new value subtracted from stem height individually to obtain each spring
installed height. You can't reduce this value any other way short of
replacing the valve seat.
If the valve stem height is too low, you can modify the valve seat or
machine the valve spring perches (seat or retainer) to increase the size of
the spring installed height. Another method would be to cut the valve seat
deeper to recess the valve.
In my video, we show this whole process on a brand new set of Supertech
valves. All of them are identical, and all of the retainers are new and
identical. Because of this (and yes we checked it), and because no valves
required any grinding, we only needed to use one value in our math for all
Hopefully this video clears up the process and covers the options available
for making changes if they're necessary. If you land within 3% of spec,
you've done your diligence in achieving correct valvetrain geometry.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Blueprint 108 - inspect the deck
There's a reason why there are no subtitled specifications in this video
for the block. It's because they don't exist in either service manual, 1g
or 2g. You're not supposed to remove material from a block on the deck
surface because it has ill effects on parts of the combustion chamber
geometry, and alters your compression ratio. It can be done intentionally
in some cases for a desired side-affect, but if you have to deck a 4g63
head, it would be advised to use a thicker head gasket. The Mitsubishi
Multi-Layered-Steel or MLS gasket is slightly thicker than the OEM
composite gasket. Also, HKS, Power Enterprise, Cometic, and other
performance brands all make MLS gaskets that are .065 and thicker.
THERE IS ONE ERROR IN THE VIDEO. I said a block with .002" warpage is
junk. I was completely and totally wrong. While I don't wish to spread
misinformation, I don't think it's a big enough error to warrant re-editing
this video. I just wasn't paying attention. .002" warpage on a cylinder
head is the service limit before it needs machining. I meant to say
.02"... or two HUNDREDTHS (not thousandths) of an inch.
...and here's my justification...
A warped block to me is junk either way even if its minimal because your
MLS gasket will never seal unless both the head and the block are perfectly
flat. Trust your machine shop to get the values for how much is taken off,
and buy the correct thickness gasket for your machine work.
A factory head gasket (composite) is .051"
The MLS Mitsubishi gasket is available in the stock .051 and a .062"
Cometic makes gaskets up to .072"
There are some brands that go as high as .127", but I'd have thrown both
the block and head away long before then.
► Bentley Factory - W12 Engine
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All the Best.
Marios Eclipse GSX 400HP ST2 project
HEY HOWS IT GOING, IV BEEN BUILDING THIS CAR OVER THE LAST YEAR AND AM
PLANNING TO RACE IT NEXT SEASON IN THE NASA ST2 CLASS. I USED TO HAVE MY
PRO LICENSE ROADRACING STREETBIKES BUT BROKE MY NECK A LITTLE OVER 5 YEARS
AGO NOW SO IM NOW A C5-C6 QUADRIPLEGIC. SO I BASICALLY JUST PREMATURELY
GRADUATED FROM 2 WHEELS TO 4... LOL
THE CAR SHOULD BE PRETTY FUN ONCE I GET A NEW TRANNY FOR IT IT WILL DO
PRETTY WELL I THINK.
ILL POST MORE THROUGH OUT THE SEASON.
CHECK OUT MY BLOG AT KEEPEMSPINNINRACING.BLOGSPOT.COM
THANKS FOR WATCHING AND GOD BLESS.