This is the GTO I built and raced between 1984 and 1992. Anyone know where it is? I sold it to a guy in Memphis TN when it got to the point that you couldn't be competitive without a trans break and delay box.
The picture of the baby blue 68 Tempest is how it was when I bought it from a guy named Lowel in central FL. The Dorn Brothers in Sanford did the body work and awesome Orbit Orange paint. Ken Wells built the TH400. I built the engine and rear end etc. The car weighed 3500 lbs with driver. Best ET/Speed: 1/4 mile 10.36/132mph, 1/8 mile (set up for the 1/4) 6.55/103mph, 1.48 sec. 60 foot. This is the first and only Pontiac I ever built. It was a stock bore and stroke 455 with cast rods and crank. "62" D-port heads, measured 11.2:1 compression ratio using TRW forged flat top pistions. Torquer intake, 850 Holley. Crower mechanical cam. TCI 5000 stall 8" converter. 9" Ford with 4.10 gears, Strange spool and axels. Shifts were at 5500 rpms and it went through the 1/4 mile traps at 6200 rpms. The rear tires were 14 x 33 MT (I hated the MT's, Firestones and Goodyears hooked better). I fabricated the headers from a Headman Hustler (flat collector) kit and they were worth .2 sec off the ET.
The first time out, I had $5000 in the car and ran in the 10's off the trailer with a Quadrajet. By the time I sold it, I had better than twice the money in it and had tuned 6/10th off the ET. I raced it all over FL, GA and TN and had only good times with great friends. Like they say, a bad day at the track is better than a good day at work. Hopefully I'll find some of the in car videos from Memphis where it carried the front tires 3" in the air, 6 feet out, remember, this was old school, foot breaking it.
1969 GTO Judge Ram Air V Car
GTO Judge Ram Air V Car that has been completely restored to the way the
original owner had it. Beautiful car!!!
A great engine put togeather by DCI Motorsports.
Epic GTO Judge Spinning thru the gears!
GTO Judge RA 400 lighting them up and click the link to find out the
history of this incredible car!
1969 GTO "The Judge" - Burnout (Pure Black!)
Doing a proper Burn out in my 69 Judge......Look at those perfect pure
black lines. Kinda give's yah a stiffy hearing that engine roar, & smelling
the burnt rubber....Smells like...Victory!
RARE! 1970 PONTIAC GTO JUDGE RAM AIR IV BUILT AND READY TO RACE!
http://www.MMBrokers.com This is a real GTO Judge per the PHS
Documentation. Not only is it a Judge but it is an original triple black
car (black exterior, black vinyl top, and black interior). It also was an
original Hertz car! This car redone back to factory specifications would
easily command 200k! Today, it is a powerful and extremely mean quarter
mile car that could easily be made street legal. The car has had over 50k
worth of work done to it. We are asking 32k. Please check out
www.MMBrokers.com for 70+ photos and details!
Dodge Ram Front Seat Cushion Replacement (Instructions in Description)
This is not a difficult repair but it is critical that it's done safely and
correctly. Do this wrong and you or the person in this seat will die.
Attempt at your own risk. These instructions are for entertainment
purposes and do not contain every torque spec and detail. They are
intended to show a qualified technician what they are going to see when
making this repair.
Picture 1: If you have a power seat, adjust up, forward or rearward until
you can get a straight shot onto the 2 front and 2 rear nuts holding the
seat to the frame. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery. Remove
the rear nuts.
Picture 2 and 3. Tilt the seat back slightly forward from vertical and
remove the screw and lever. Cut the tape holding the harness to the seat
frame where the tie strap is in picture 3. Pull out the red locking tab on
the power seat harness connector. Squeeze the latch at the red tab and
pull the connector out of the seat frame harness. Remove the 2 screws and
the cover over the power seat switch.
Picture 3. Remove the 2 front nuts while holding the seat from tipping out
of the frame.
Remove the seat from the truck and place on a large, clean, flat surface.
Picture 4: Power seat frame. While the seat's off, it's a good time to lube
the wear points and jack screws.
Picture 5: Slide off the black u-clips that hold the seat cover to the
frame. You may have to compress the cushion to get some slack in the web
attached to the clip so it will come off the frame. The clips at 5A and 5B
Picture 6: Carefully pull the seat cover out of the frame and off of the
cushion. Separate the 2 Velcro like strips from the seat cushion.
Picture 7: My old cushion that I'd fixed once before where the frame had
worn it out.
Picture 8: If you want your new cushion to last, flatten the welds and
sheet metal on the top of the frame. These eat away at the cushion every
time you get in and out. Cover the top of the frame with JB Weld or
similar and make it smooth. Cover the top of the frame with Gorilla tape
Picture 9: New MOPAR seat cushion available online from Amazon or ebay for
Picture 10: Optional, use adhesive spray and reinforce bottom of cushion
with burlap cloth.
Picture 11 and 12: Power seat switch cut-out. Hint, use a sharp knife and
pinch the foam together so your cutting through a thinner section.
Picture 13: Location of seat cover tabs.
Picture 14: Put the cushion in the frame. Put the cover on the cushion.
Start by lining up one of the Velcro strips and rub the top of the seat
cover along the strip to work it into the black strip on the cushion. Pull
the cover bottom center panel tight across the cushion and work the other
cover Velcro strip into the black strip on the cushion.
Picture 15: Pull the seat cover tabs around the cushion and frame. Work
the cover until it fits correctly and tightly on the cushion, then reattach
the clips to the frame. You'll have to compress the cushion to get enough
slack in the webs to get the black plastic clips back on the frame. NOT
shown in this picture is a small web/clip that is under 5A.
Picture 16. Align the studs in the holes and set the seat back on the power
seat frame. Install the 2 front nuts. Connect the harness connectors and
push in the red locking tab. Secure the harness to the frame with a tie
strap and cut off the excess. Install the power seat switch cover.
Install the seat back tilt lever, you'll probably have to compress the seat
to get the hole in the side cover over the splined shaft and the boss on
the lever into the side cover hole.
Picture: 17: Install the 2 rear seat nuts.
Connect the battery and get ready for you butt to remember how good your
seat felt when it was new! This is the best $100 and 2 hours you may ever
spend on your truck.
GTO JUDGE RAM AIR 4 DYNO DAY
GLASGO 69 GTO RAM AIR 4 AND 70 JUDGE RAM AIR 4 Dyno DAY,THE 69 MADE 392 HP,AND
THE 70 MADE 384 HP.THIS WAS WITH NO TUNING.WE WILL BE BACK IN THE SPRING TO
SEE IF WE CAN GET EACH UP TO 400 HP AT THE WHEELS.
F.A.S.T. 69 Ram Air IV GTO running 12's on G70's
This was my best run last year at Pittsburgh raceway, it ran a 12.82 with
1.80 60 foot time on G70's. This was my first year running this car and I
only had time to get used to launching the car correctly and shifting
differently. This run was done without using the clutch to shift, I also
tried speed shifting(not letting off the gas and bumping the clutch) and
did not pick up any time. The engine is a 69 428 built to RAIV specs with
an M-20 and 4.11 rear. I am going through the entire car and looking to
pick up more time this year.