Gsr b18c1 bent valve or need valve adjustment?
After a short pull from 60-90 mph my car starting bogging.
1. i thought it was the spark plug so i swapped it out. ran better but still shitty as hell.
2. Checked timing when i got home, it was about a tooth or two off. I'm sure it jumped timing
3. re-did my timing, now it runs better but still has misfire revving pass 3k.
4. its also making noises that wasn't there before, not sure if it's a sign for bent valve or need valve adjustments? any help would be appreciated.
5. also, while it warmed up, i took out spark plug #4 and it was boggin like it wants to die, also with #3, while #2, and #1 didn't do anything? i did research and it says if nothing it could be signs of bent valve? lmk.
Testing for Leaking/Bent Valves
--Please Read-- :)
Some of the best advice I can offer you about fixing your car is to search for an online forum related to your car, or even for your specific engine. If you have a popular car or engine, this can be an amazing tool in diagnosing and fixing cars yourself!
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Directions
1. Get kerosene, gasoline, or break cleaner.
2. Tilt head on its side, with the ports of the valves you're testing pointing up and exposed.
3. Fill the intake or Exhaust ports with the liquid you chose, make sure to use enough liquid to cover the back of the valve head completely inside the port.
4. Look at the valve surface in the combustion chamber for leakage. (Let it sit for several minutes)
5. If there is a leak, you could have a bent valve or just a bad seal. You might have to replace the valve, or just use some lapping compound to lap the valve/seat to resurface.
6. Repeat for the other side if you wish.
7. This is a great time to replace valve seals if you have noticed they are worn too much.
8. If you have any questions, please post them here and I'll try to answer them quickly.
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You just tilt the head on one side or the other depending whether you want to test the intake or Exhaust valves. I'm testing the intake valves in this video. I did this way because I didn't have the leakdown test equipment, but also because I wanted to replace my head gasket anyway. I wouldn't say this is the best way to test initially if you suspect leaking or bent valves because it requires you remove the head. Try just a regular leakdown test first. But if you're taking it off anyway it's pretty nifty and doesn't require the leakdown test tools. There are several methods to do this, this is just the one I chose in my situation.
H22 BLOWN MOTOR VTEC 1998
BLOWN H22 PRELUDE PISTION BROKE RIGHT THROUGH..TELL ME WHAT U THINK WORTH REPAIRING?
H22a4 Bent Exhaust Valves
"The Incident"
Just to clear up a few misconceptions, this is the sound of cylinder #2 bent Exhaust and intake valves. Not rod bearings, rod knock, or anything else. I paid to have the head rebuilt with all new valves, seats, springs, and retainers.
It sounds the way it does because a piece of a broken drill bit wedged itself in between my Exhaust valves and seat. It runs perfect now and I've put 13,000 miles on it since.
Diagnosing the Engine Knock
Trying to figure out what the engine noise is. Looks like lifters that won't drain down plus maybe some plugged up oil squirters.
22RE bent valve
Replaced the cylinder head on this thing with one from another engine. Had to change the camshaft. When I removed the original cam from this cylinder head, the threads came out of one of the holes for the rear cam bearing cap.
To repair it, I bought a GARBAGE set of thread inserts for 8MM x 1.25 made by ALCOA. They didn't have heli-coil at the store that day (and I should have waited), so I went with the ALCOA set. BIG MISTAKE!!!
Tried the first insert. Seemed a little tough to go into the hole, but figured it was okay. Tried to screw in the bolt, it felt like I was cross-threading the new insert threads. When I removed the screw, out came the insert with it. I tried the second insert, with same result. The same thing happened with the third insert, and on the way out, the insert removed the threads once more from the bore in the cylinder head.
I drilled the hole out to the next size and tapped it to 10MM. Installed a whittled-down cap screw to replace the 8MM screw. I didn't notice that it was too tall by *just* enough when I was bolting down the rockers, so I bent the #1 Exhaust valve. I also broke the rocker assembly, as it is cast iron.
I knew I was going to have to tear it apart again, and I had already wasted the head gasket and every other gasket that's going to rip when I take it apart, so I decided to run it, on the odd chance that I was wrong about the bent valve. However, as the video shows, I was correct..
Not happy either, as the cylinder head this now hosed-up one replaced was redone to the tune of $600 and only lasted 7000 miles.
Ford Focus 1.8 TDCi 115 engine problem - knocking/ticking sound
Problem diagnosed: Faulty high pressure pump.
So my focus is making a knocking/ticking/tapping noise (when driving it's more noticeable and very rattly). The engine is also quite shaky at around 1000-1100rpm. It get's louder after driving the car for about 10 minutes.
My Honda Knock!
This is how my engine sounds around 1500 - 2300 rpm! Is this a rod knock??? WHAT THE CRAP ON A STICK!!!!
Honda Valve Adjustment
Honda valves need to be adjusted on a regular interval and/or when they begin to make noise. Here is how you do it.
Last video before I sell it. Engine knocking noise
subaru impreza EJ20 engine, varying knocking noise. Most prevelant at top of pass side cylinder head above cylinder one. Noise comes and goes some days. Oil pressure was at 30psi during this video. I dont have any place to diagnose this noise so am forced to sell it for stupid cheap, which is killing me. if anyone has any insight, please LMK.
BTW drained oil after noise appeared, no excessive bearing material/metal material found. car has been driven 500+ miles since noise appeared, no issues with running. Noise appeared one day right after startup.
this is the for sale ad for anyone interested. http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1189733480.html
95 Ford Probe GT - Engine tapping noise
I put 5.5 fl oz into oil and ran it idle for 15 minutes then drove 10 minutes to change oil. changed oil and added some engine treatment additive... It sound same to me :( Car itself drives fine... It used to have misfire which then become much more less noticeable and now it's gone. It was also very rough at idle(sometimes stalling) which is completely gone now and this tapping/clicking developed... :(
5th Gen Honda Prelude Whining Noise, Oil pump?
My 98 Honda Prelude...
My car started to give me the Oil Flickering Light Every time I would come to a stop sign or stop light or while idle. Revving the engine made the light go away but as soon as i came to a stop it flickered back on rapidly.
The oil while fine on the dip stick....
i changed oil to make sure of everything, even filter.
Problem got worse, after a day the light came back flickering but it brought along a hard whining noise that you hear now in this video
COULD IT BE THE OIL PUMP GIVING OUT????
The Noise is not coming from any Power Steering, Any Pully, Timing Belt or Belt Tension. I Jacked up the car And Started hearing the noise coming within the Oil Pan! WTF!
What do you guys think it is at your 100% positivity.
Oil Pump Goes For nearly 200 bills, so before buying something that it could't be I'd like your Opinions. TY!
