Saturn Idle problem.mov
In this video we show you how to replace an idle air control solenoid and
clean the throttle body on a 1996 Saturn. This car was having a
excessively high idle. It would stay at 1500 RPM even though your foot was
not on the gas pedal. This was caused by carbon build up around and behind
the throttle body as well as a defective idle air control solenoid.
Jonesy's Auto Club videos are for reference and entertainment only and
should not be taken as a direct step by step guides. If you attempt a
repair like the one seen in this video please use the proper safety
equipment, take your time and do the job right.
Cutting White Wire on Saturn Ion to Fix Starting Issue
This is me showing how I cut the passlock wire on my car. My car would not
start on damp, cold mornings, often taking 30 - 40 minutes to get it to
start. After reading several forums I found users who were doing this to
"fix" the problem. I thought I would tape this for anyone who was thinking
of doing the same but doesn't know anything about cars. Like me. :)
Note: I owe thanks to meron for the post at this link
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1137a7/83 it is where I
first heard about this solution.
Update 10.6.2012: I added a switch, I believe it was this one
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062533 I installed
it with it in the off position, started the car, switched it to On while
the car was running and the service engine light went away. Car started
fine after that. I just shut it off again as it was cold one morning this
week and I had trouble getting the car started. Once I got it running,
turned it off and haven't had trouble starting it since. YMMV
How to Seafoam your vehicle (Also called Top Engine Clean)
This is a carbon deposit cleaner that when used can help eliminate the
carbon deposits that build up in the top end of your engine block. I
perform this about every 15,000 miles on my own vehicle.
Steps to seafoaming:
1. Bring your vehicle up to normal operation temperature
2. Separate seafoam canister into 3 equal parts (one will be for sucking
through a pvc line or brakeBooster
line, one for gas tank, and one for putting in the oil filler cap)
3. Locate the PVC valve that runs through the intake manifold, for this is
where you will initially suck 1/3 of the seafoam canister through.
(If PVC is non accessible then you can use your brake Booster line in the same manner.)
4. Once engine is at normal operational temperature, have another person
sit in the drive seat and bring the engine RPM up to around 1500.
5. Pull your PVC off (or brake Booster line) and start slowly sucking 1/3 of
the seafoam in through either of these locations. Be cautious & steady
handed, you don't want to stall the engine out.
6. Once you've sucked all of the 1/3 portion up turn the engine off &
replace pvc or brake Booster to its
7. Once engine is off, unscrew your Oil Filler cap & pour 1/3 of the
seafoam in as if it were oil.
8. Unscrew gas cap and put the remaining 1/3 seafoam in.
9. Leave the car alone for 15 minutes.
10. Come back to the car and start it up, let it idle for about 10-15
seconds and then BRING ENGINE RPMS TO A STEADY 2000-3000RPM for no more
than a couple minutes.
(major revving or fluctuation can knock carbon deposits loose so please
keep a steady foot)
11. Once this is complete, take your car for a 10-15 mile drive, while
doing so make sure to bring the engine through its total rev band spectrum
to make sure all the carbon deposits have been cleaned out.
12. Once the drive is complete, bring the car back home.
13. CHANGE YOUR OIL & FILTER & SPARKPLUGS WITH KNOWN GOOD OEM SPEC PARTS.
(The reasoning behind this is that the seafoam lowers the viscosity of your
oil, thus weakening its ability to control wear on your engines major
mating surfaces and your plugs get buggered up with carbon after this
tuneup due to the carbon coming loose during the tuneup.. So an Oil/Filter
change & Spark Plugs are a must after seafoaming is complete
14. Tune Up is complete!
How To Solve Honda Idle Problems - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
Before posting questions about Honda idle problems please read this:
The viewers have chosen and this weeks video will be about solving Honda
idle problems. I'm really not surprised as I get a lot of questions and
requests about this very subject. Here are the links I promised in the
video that will help you address specific issues mentioned in the video.
How To Bleed a Cooling System
How to Check for Vacuum Leaks
Reading Check Engine Light Codes
Diagnosing an Overheat
Hopefully when your done checking all that stuff out you will have solved
your Honda's idle problem, if not leave a comment or send me a message and
I'll see what I can do just make sure you have tried all the stuff in the
videos first as that saves me from typing so much.
I also want to add my "Idle Speech" into the mix here:
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in
the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that
engine however here are some things to start with.
First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don't
change the wires if they are OE, if they aren't OE you might consider NGK
wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and
rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.
Don't change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there
put a Honda in, believe it or not I've seen idle issues caused by
aftermarket PCV valves, the OE's last just about forever so you can easily
justify the expense.
Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle
if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.
While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you
feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to 'chunk' as it spins causing a
rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then
you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it's
not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.
DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the
factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you
find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have
done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if
that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it
was before it was adjusted in the first place.
Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged
up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted
which can cause idle issues.
If you still have a 'rough' idle after all of this THEN look to the engine
mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go
for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.
Click below and Stay Dirty
Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com
Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum
Visit my Facebook Page:
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee
against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of
this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage
or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this
video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power
tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment,
blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment
seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of
EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any
express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any
injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools,
equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole
responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
How to clean a throttle body and Idle air control valve (iac)
*** PLEASE READ ***
In this video demonstration, I show how to get to, remove, clean, and
replace the throttle body and idle air control motor (aka IAC) on a 4.2l
ford motor. This procedure is the same for any fuel injected vehicle.
* * * Check out my website krkvideos.com * * *
The vans require removal of alot more stuff just to access the throttle
A dirty IAC can cause a rough idle. A dirty throttle body can harm
performance and cause rough engine operation.
When the throttle body or iac is removed a new gasket must be used to
properly seal the connection to the intake.
GM idle air motors are generally mounted on the throttle body and can be
cleaned without removal from the throttle body. This means one less gasket
and a lesser chance of creating a vacuum leak.
The ford throttle body had a note on it that said it was not to be cleaned
because the coating on the throttle blade might be damaged. Thats fine for
a new car but that has to be disregarded when working on something that has
some miles on it.
Subscribe to my channel.
* * * Definitions: * * *
MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor - Monitors the amount of air the engine is
IAT - Intake Air Temperature - Measures the temperature of the air the
engine is intaking.
IAC - Idle air control - Controls the amount of air the engine is intaking
while it is idling.
Throttle body - Responsible for regulating flow of air into the engine as
you press the gas pedal.
TPS - Throttle position sensor - Tells the computer how far you are opening
the blade in the throttle body so it can add more fuel to compensate the
* * * Visit krkvideos.com for more! * * *
* * * Visit krkvideos.com for more! * * *
* * * Visit krkvideos.com for more! * * *