Idle Air Control Valve Replacement

a quick explanation and how to for changing an Idle Air Control Valve on a 2000 Mercury Sable 24v Duratech ... however before changing your IAC and expecting positive results... read all of the following: The IAC on this vehicle was replaced because it was found to not be functioning at all when it was taken out and tested...however that was not the root cause of this idle issue... the old IAC valve was burned out, but only from trying to compensate for a massive vacuum leak, that only presented itself when the PCV valve was open. if your v6 sable/taurus is failing to hold an idle at stop lights after it's warmed up, the first place you should check before doing anything else at all is the PCV valve tube/boot that goes into the bottom of your intake/throttle body assembly. they are notorious for getting collapsed in (especially the original OEM ones, the newer version ones are reinforced with thick rubber ribs and much thicker rubber all the way around) and over time they end up cracking and causing vac leaks when the valve opens, which is what the issue was on this 2000, and after so long the IAC must have just given out from being constantly trying to compensate for all the extra un-metered air. this is the kind you don't want.... the one on the left is the one you do want ... they are reinforced like crazy to prevent from collapsing one person even commented that he found this boot wrapped with a 1/4 inch of electrical tape that someone had used to try to keep it from collapsing/leaking, after taking his car to the mechanic and getting raked over the coals with a bunch of repairs that still didn't fix the problem. can't say who wrapped it, the mechanic or the previous owner/seller/used car lot, but if it's never been changed, chances are you need to change it. *EDIT* 5/4/2014 For all the people who are commenting "try changing this..." or "try changing that..." please stop spreading your ignorance on my video. The "try changing xxxxxxxx" theory is something you need to get away from when working on a vehicle. You need to figure out what's happening, and why, and then fix what's causing the problem, not change every part you can think of one at a time until the problem goes away.... Blindly changing parts crossing your fingers that the problem will go away isn't the proper way to fix your vehicle. That's some minimum wage shit. Use your brain, not your wallet. If you car isn't idling properly, there's about a two dozen reasons I can think of off the top of my head why that might be the case.... it's not necessarily your IAC. That being said, I'm glad so many of you have found this video informative, but don't assume that just because your car is doing what my car was doing that replacing the IAC will fix it! Comment / Like / Share . I'm pretty good about responding relatively quickly.

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Ford Escape V6 Ford Idle Air Control Valve Replace Repair (IAC)
2001 Ford Escape V6, would not Idle, after it warmed up it would idle at a VERY low RPM (like 200?). Blew copious amounts of white smoke after starting at 3000-4000 RPM. I thought the head gasket was blown and had vacuum leaks until I found info on this IAC ( Idle Control Valve ). This repair is so simple you don't even need your own tools, just borrow a 5/16 socket from your neighbor or the auto parts store. This video differs from others on youtube because it shows the motor running with the bad part, without the part, and with the new part. *** Update*** It has been a few weeks, cold weather has set in @ 15F it still starts and runs just fine. I did not mention in the video that upon examination the old IAC had some significant scars on the rod which I feared may affect performance and made the decision to buy a new one more imperative. **update** 9-10-14, got "the" call from the mechanic this morning that he will no longer issue a state inspection sticker for this car. The under carriage is too rusted, the CAT is leaking, the Y Exhaust is shot. So what we own is a good set of tires, a good motor & tranny, to sell for junk!

Idle Air Control Valve
A 101 on the idle air control valve, the component of the car that regulates the amount of air that flows around the closed throttle plate.

How to clean a throttle body and Idle air control valve (iac)
*** PLEASE READ *** In this video demonstration, I show how to get to, remove, clean, and replace the throttle body and idle air control motor (aka IAC) on a 4.2l ford motor. This procedure is the same for any fuel injected vehicle. * * * Check out my website * * * The vans require removal of alot more stuff just to access the throttle body. A dirty IAC can cause a rough idle. A dirty throttle body can harm performance and cause rough engine operation. When the throttle body or iac is removed a new gasket must be used to properly seal the connection to the intake. GM idle air motors are generally mounted on the throttle body and can be cleaned without removal from the throttle body. This means one less gasket and a lesser chance of creating a vacuum leak. The ford throttle body had a note on it that said it was not to be cleaned because the coating on the throttle blade might be damaged. Thats fine for a new car but that has to be disregarded when working on something that has some miles on it. Subscribe to my channel. * * * Definitions: * * * MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor - Monitors the amount of air the engine is intaking. IAT - Intake Air Temperature - Measures the temperature of the air the engine is intaking. IAC - Idle air control - Controls the amount of air the engine is intaking while it is idling. Throttle body - Responsible for regulating flow of air into the engine as you press the gas pedal. TPS - Throttle position sensor - Tells the computer how far you are opening the blade in the throttle body so it can add more fuel to compensate the added air. * * * Visit for more! * * * * * * Visit for more! * * * * * * Visit for more! * * *

Idle Air Control Valve