This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than $40. The BG products were donated to the cause.
The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can throw at it.
I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary.
In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap, demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't even know what they were looking at.
This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good times roll.
Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 1) - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
See Part 2
Leak down testing
I get a lot of questions via email and over at the forum about the steps to
take when you encounter a performance issue like my Subaru's hesitation
issue and I often feel like I sound like a broken record when I cover the
basic steps that I cover when encountering a situation like that. My main
point here is that if you have a performance problem and you're going to
throw parts at the problem start with the basics before you to off and
start replacing sensors that you suspect are a problem, if you don't have
evidence of a faulty sensor then don't start there start with the simple
tune up items and check for vacuum leaks and air leaks as I've shown here
and I believe you'll have better results and save yourself some money in
the process. In short the rule of KISS applies, Keep It Simple Stupid.
If you have questions about your own engine performance issues head over to
my website and either ask the search function or ask the forum, we'd be
happy to help.
Click below and Stay Dirty
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