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DIY Fuel Injector Cleaning & Repair

This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than $40. The BG products were donated to the cause. Tech info: The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can throw at it. I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary. In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap, demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't even know what they were looking at. This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good times roll.


 


More Videos...


DIY Testing & build EFI Fuel Injector cleaner
In this video I detail some quick tests and some not-so-quick fixes. A dirty or stuck injector is not usually a fatal problem for the part. You can clean injectors yourself with a little ingenuity, or use an injector cleaning service. With the method I'm using, you won't get a sheet that measures how much fluid is flowing, but if you use the right solvent you can at least remove whatever is blocking it so that it can flow like it did when it was new. So the journey begins.





Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO! We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC. If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through 11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections. You gotta do the cooking by the book. I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts. You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how and why I do things the way I do when I get there. This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a Hollywood movie.





LIQUI MOLY Injection Cleaner
For eliminating problems such as starting,difficulties, irregular idling, poor throttle response, performance losses, lean surging,and poor Exhaust values. With a long-term effect lasting 2000 km. When,the product is added, the tank must be at least 3/4 full. 300 ml is sufficient for up to 70 litres of fuel.





Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 1) - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ See Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAKwCzUE_9M Vacuum leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok+ Voltage leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-U9WqJfaJs Power Balance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE Compression testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4 Leak down testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc&feature=relmfu I get a lot of questions via email and over at the forum about the steps to take when you encounter a performance issue like my Subaru's hesitation issue and I often feel like I sound like a broken record when I cover the basic steps that I cover when encountering a situation like that. My main point here is that if you have a performance problem and you're going to throw parts at the problem start with the basics before you to off and start replacing sensors that you suspect are a problem, if you don't have evidence of a faulty sensor then don't start there start with the simple tune up items and check for vacuum leaks and air leaks as I've shown here and I believe you'll have better results and save yourself some money in the process. In short the rule of KISS applies, Keep It Simple Stupid. If you have questions about your own engine performance issues head over to my website and either ask the search function or ask the forum, we'd be happy to help. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





Homemade Fuel Injector Cleaner - How To
There has been a follow up to this video and it is located here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRaoCtehGHk. This project was inspired by another Youtube member. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mnA0cnXckg&feature=channel_video_title I picked up a set of used Blue Max 1650's and wanted to clean them before installation sooooo......... I followed the video in the link with minor adjustments. When using the larger coupler listed in the video, I could not even get the threads to drill out. I had a smaller coupler laying in the garage that worked for my injectors. I also used the drill bit one step above the 27/64 listed in the link. This is 7/16 and just seem to be easier to handle while maintaining a good seal. Another discovery along the way is the size O-rings that you could use for upper seals. If your injectors have good seals, Why chance ripping them. A #11 O-ring serves for a great base O-ring on the top side of the injector. The #78 serves for an outstanding upper O-ring for the upper seals. You will see this demonstrated in the cleaning video. One last VERY IMPORTANT note is YOU MUST USE A AA BATTERY FOR THE SWITCH. I started out using a AAA and had great results on the 950's but the AAA would not open the 1650's under pressure. After adding a AA everything worked perfect. The injectors did measure out to be 2.3 ohms.





Homemade Fuel Injector Cleaner Update
Are you having problems getting your injectors to activate on the bench??? Do you want to clean your injectors and NOT run the risk of ruining your seals???? After assembling the Fuel Injector Cleaner in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlO4krw2h8o I noticed these problems and they had to be addressed. Smaller injectors worked fine with the single AAA battery, but when I tried the 1650's they would not. This video shows a solution to that problem and how to get larger injectors to operate on the bench. Also included in this video is O-ring sizes for upper injector seals. I did not want to ruin the injector seals that I planed on using in the car, so I got the O-ring box out and found a set that fit the bill. I share their measurements and numbers inside the video. This set worked for my Delphi 950cc injectors, FIC Bluemax 1650cc injectors and a set of stock 450cc DSM Injectors.





Valvoline EGR Cleaner
Valvoline EGR + turbo Cleaner is a blend of selected solvents, carefully formulated to remove deposits on EGR valve and turbo systems. It quickly removes gum, varnish,carbon and dirt. * Cleans EGR valves and turbo chargers * Leaves no residue * Restores engine performance For more information see: http://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/products/cleaning/cid(580)/egr__67__ turbo_cleaner





How diesel fuel injector works? And how nozzle spray ??.flv
To know our product lines please visit : http://www.makisew.com Here it shows that how the injector works and what is the function of the nozzle in the nozzle holder or injector.





Common rail injection system
The injection technology used in the TGL and TGM is the most sophisticated one: a state-of-the-art common rail injection system with vertically positioned 7-jet injector nozzle. The latest generation of EDC7 control units provide the controls of the system. Only this system ensures the best-possible control of the fuel injection process. In each compression stroke, the injection quantity can be divided into pre-injection (1) and main injection (2). In some cases, a post-injection (3) is used. The engines operate with an increased maximum injection pressure of more than 1,800 bar in order to reduce the soot particles inside the engine. The engine runs extremely quietly and noise emissions are low due to the pre-injection (1). The common rail system also supplies considerable advantages in torque, particularly at low speeds. At all engine ratings, the favourable progression of torque across a wide range of engine speeds makes driving economical and requires very few gear shifts.





Injector Cleaning Service BEFORE
Before the Cleaning. (Injectors in current state as sent in by customer)





How to clean a throttle body and Idle air control valve (iac)
*** PLEASE READ *** In this video demonstration, I show how to get to, remove, clean, and replace the throttle body and idle air control motor (aka IAC) on a 4.2l ford motor. This procedure is the same for any fuel injected vehicle. * * * Check out my website krkvideos.com * * * The vans require removal of alot more stuff just to access the throttle body. A dirty IAC can cause a rough idle. A dirty throttle body can harm performance and cause rough engine operation. When the throttle body or iac is removed a new gasket must be used to properly seal the connection to the intake. GM idle air motors are generally mounted on the throttle body and can be cleaned without removal from the throttle body. This means one less gasket and a lesser chance of creating a vacuum leak. The ford throttle body had a note on it that said it was not to be cleaned because the coating on the throttle blade might be damaged. Thats fine for a new car but that has to be disregarded when working on something that has some miles on it. Subscribe to my channel. * * * Definitions: * * * MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor - Monitors the amount of air the engine is intaking. IAT - Intake Air Temperature - Measures the temperature of the air the engine is intaking. IAC - Idle air control - Controls the amount of air the engine is intaking while it is idling. Throttle body - Responsible for regulating flow of air into the engine as you press the gas pedal. TPS - Throttle position sensor - Tells the computer how far you are opening the blade in the throttle body so it can add more fuel to compensate the added air. * * * Visit krkvideos.com for more! * * * * * * Visit krkvideos.com for more! * * * * * * Visit krkvideos.com for more! * * *





GUNK Original Engine Degreaser - How to Degrease an Engine
A quick overview of how to use GUNK Original Formula Engine Degreaser.





How To Quick Clean a Throttle Body
Ecotec 2.4L - Removing the top engine cover, - Quick clean on the throttle body, - Reinstall top cover Car used in this video 2008 Malibu. WARNING ! This procedure cannot be done like this on newer electronically controlled throttle systems; otherwise, it may require re-calibration of the ECU settings. If you DO NOT have a manually controlled linkage cable from the accelerator pedal on your vehicle, DO NOT attempt this procedure. Disclaimer: To the best of my knowledge this video is accurate. I am in no way responsible for any occurance resulting from following the instructions in this video.





DIY: Clean Fuel Injectors, Get Better MPG, Get More Horsepower with Seafoam
In this video tutorial, we show how to clean out your fuel injectors, get better mileage and more horse power using Seafoam. This is a fairly safe method, but we are not responsible for any harm done to your car. To clean your fuel injectors, you want to add half a can to a full can of Sea Foam into your gas tank after performing this procedure. Song: Nalepa - Monday Glitch mob remix Please rate comment and subscribe.





New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to stick before encountering this. More on this build... The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video. I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides. Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore 6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my 150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful. Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough. In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.




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