1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD project; from Beginning to current. (Not completed).
In this video I take you on a little journy though the past 5-8 months and
the work completed on my Talon. It is nowhere near done quite yet,
well...for body it is. There are still many aspects I am planning on
hitting, such as the engine..
I will be building a 2.3L stroker with a Holset HX35 turbocharger and the works.. But in time it will
happen, certainly not right away. I have yet to apply for a job, but I am
working on it. Thanks for watching.
My Rebuild 2
My car from when I first got it, the accident, and how it sits now.
(extented from the first version, now with Dyno video)
Fastest 35r DSM and record holder of fastest 4cyl at Byron Dragstrip vs 300 SRT8
The Chicago Garage track dat May 1, 2010
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How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has its rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
keywords: turbocharger dsm eclipse talon
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7 Bolt Magic
Evo 16g setup running 28 psi through a stock 7 bolt motor on the Dyno resulting in bad times.
DSM Sleeper Rebuild Begins
Quick video of the beginning of my rebuild.
**This car has been sold for a while now and my current project is a 1g AWD
DSM.Check out my NEW Videos!!**
4G63 back from the ashes---First half of engine rebuild
After over a YEAR of promises that I'd get this vid done, I went halfway
and got the engine pull and most of the shortblock work edited and
documented. Here for your viewing deliciousness is PART 1! (link to torque
specs for the engine here: http://bit.ly/17KDEED)
6-bolt 4g63 shortblock rebuild parts
I'm saying it right up front. This video goes above and beyond shortblock
rebuild parts for a reason. Read on... The first part is stern, the last
part is happy.
Nobody in their right, left, forward or reverse minds puts a 23-year-old
4g63 engine back together with 100% OEM parts. Nobody's shooting for that
good ol' stock 190hp feeling with a DSM drivetrain. Nobody. Not unless
they've got something to prove.
I am putting a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block. So with that said, I show
several over-the-top internal parts that are and are not related to the
short block itself. I show cams and valve springs which only matter for
head work. Not part of the short block. Nobody makes an engine gasket kit
with all the parts mixed and matched to do this. So what people have to do
is order both kits, or order all the individual parts separately like I am
It's at this stage you are working with a machine shop to return your old
worn-out block to the specs you've chosen to follow, and you need these
cylinder head parts at this stage of the game to do it right. These parts
making an appearance in this video show 3 things... 1) I am not aiming for
a stock build 2) Now is the time to have your cam and valve springs if
you're going to make any changes to the head. 3) these gaskets, seals,
pins, bolts and bearings are things you will need no matter what it is
you're building if it's a 6-bolt block. When I do the head series, I will
be showing modifications and parts to rebuild and make a 7-bolt head fit a
This video assumes you disassembled a running or freshly-broken engine and
that YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS, and HARD PARTS of the motor
that it needs, bagged and tagged like was demonstrated in the
"Crankwalked?" video. You've watched me clean and inspect valves, lifters,
rockers, crankshafts, rods, etc. I don't need my turbo, hoses, vacuum lines or anything like that
yet, and they likely won't be for a MHI turbo anyway. This video focuses on the gaskets,
seals, bearings, consumable and disposable parts that you should replace
for the shortblock only. My old trusty 6-bolt front case is coming up in a
future video, getting refurbished and rebuilt, and ssembling a shortblock
doesn't require having timing components yet. The head gasket will
probably get its very own video just like the front case.
As you can see, I have very big plans with this upcoming series. We've hit
the 200's on engine stuff. It's a milestone.
For you 7-bolt guys... bah! I know this is all 6-bolt part numbers. Some
parts are interchangeable but I didn't make it clear which ones are in this
video. Don't worry, you will need these part numbers eventually (I hope
that was a joke). But if you wait long enough, perhaps I'll be
re-assembling a 7-bolt again? Here comes the first bit of good news...
The reason the "Crankwalked?" video had a question mark in the title is
because I wanted to see others' comments about it. Gain a consensus.
There are so many different opinions about shortblock failures on the 2g
cars that I didn't want to take sides with such an entertaining video. But
it's not crankwalked. What you see is rod bearing failure as a result of
torsional stress on the crankshaft. It was caused by a catastrophic clutch
failure. The thrust bearing was .014", and crankwalk cars that fail from
crankwalk are usually around .075"-.150". My thrust bearing was beat to
death as my old 6-puck fragged. All the fail was initiated by the
drivetrain, and the drivetrain problem was a fail by yours truly that had
repeated several times prior to me making videos about it and getting it
right. It's my fault for not catching it, but when I discovered it, the
drivetrain series was born. So my 7-bolt crank is trashed, but the mains
are fine. New bearings and a crank would fix its thrust measurements and I
may just rebuild it for the sake of a video someday.
Now comes the really good news. My brother is working with me to build a
website. There will be tech links and things that simply can't be
delivered on YouTube. Not in a practical and effective way anyway. Things
like schedules, projects and mod lists, parts lists, bolt lists, torque
specifications, printable worksheets for blueprinting, the parts I used to
make my fuel injector cleaner... stuff my viewers need or ask for. Soon
you'll know where to find it. I need to learn how to maintain it, but I'm
a good student. Still, these things take time, and I haven't yet wrapped
my own brain around its potential. I'm putting it out there for you guys
because you deserve it. I'm simply astonished at how the channel has
grown, and I feel the need to give back.
The Story of my Talon Tsi
I purchased a 95 eagle talon tsi awd in the summer of 2009 after graduating
High school. I did some minor modifications, bigger injectors, 14b turbo, 20lbs of Boost, safc tuning, pulled like a sombish.
Then disaster struck, I threw a rod out my stock block. So 6 bolt swap time
it is. Kept every thing stock for a stock rebuild. My intentions are cheap
and reliable. Cleaned all engine components, new wiseco rings, honed block,
cometic hg, arp headstuds, oem 6 bolt pistons and rods. Gonna be running
14b for the break in period then ill slap the 18g on and get a tune.
2g 7-bolt 4g63 Engine Removal & Disassembly
Tearing down the GSX to see what broke, and what I need to buy. Sitting
for a year and letting the battery drain took a toll on the polished
finish... and it looks like a piece of 4th gear wanted to take a look at
the outside world. Holy transmission case, and it's off to TRE to see
what's salvageable. Looks like the clutch could stand to be replaced, too.
Timing belt has taken some abuse from the higher rev limit and I was
expecting that. EGT probe is fried and I don't even care. Since I'm
running DSMlink and can log Boost,
I'm removing all my gauges anyway. Front case seal (freeze plug) is
leaking a tad, and the crank seal shows signs of excessive crankcase
pressure. I'm going to make some changes... I've got a lot of other
tricks up my sleeve, so stay tuned.