Machining connecting rods

Machining connecting rods for 7 1/4 inch gauge locomotives on the vertical machining centre, they are mounted on a fixture plate four at a time, located by dowels through the big and little end eyes

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Machining conrods for a model engine
I show how I built two conrods with my mini mill. They are made from brass. Weight: 2.3 g, Length: 40mm I didnĀ“t find any other videos showing how to build model conrods, so I figured it out by myself and hope this video will by helpful for someone.

Machining The "Impossible Dovetail" Puzzle - 100,000 Subscribers Thank You Giveaway (Winner Drawn!)
Wow, what an INCREDIBLE year! Thank you all so very much for subscribing, liking, and generally being an awesome audience. Thank you for choosing to be a part of the channel, thank you for telling your friends about it, and thank you most of all for your wonderful, supportive comments. I feel so fortunate to have you on board, and I want you to know how much your support means to me. So I'd like to give away this "Impossible Dovetail" puzzle as a gift to a lucky viewer. It's a great little desktop toy, and I had an absolute blast making it. Just leave me a comment below, and on the 16th of January 2016, I'll use this webpage: -- -- to randomly select a viewer as the winner. The contest is international, and I will ship the puzzle to you wherever you are in the world, free of charge. Again, thank you for your support and enthusiasm, be safe over the holiday season, and I look forward to having you all back here in the New Year for an even bigger 2016. Cheers, Chris. ################################################ Edit 16th of January 2016 Congratulations to the lucky winner - PNathan! Watch the draw here: Thanks very much for entering, be sure to stick around for the next giveaway at 200,000! Cheers, Chris. ################################################ Jack Houweling's YouTube Channel: Spare Parts #11 - Making A 4 Flute Light Duty Dovetail Cutter: Plans for this project: Ask Me A Question: Follow Clickspring: Abbreviated Transcript: 00:07 In this video I machine my version of the "Impossible" Dovetail. This is a popular woodworking project, that I learned about from watching Jack Houweling on his YouTube channel. 01:06 One of the key things required for the project to succeed, is that the parts be able to fit together regardless of how they're oriented when they go back together. For that to occur, its critical that the initial stock be perfectly square, 01:46 A quick check over at the other corner confirmed the alignment of the spindle, and then I made a start on removing the bulk of the waste stock. Now the way I'm choosing to tackle this project means that it hinges on the availability of a narrow taper dovetail cutter to remove the rest of the stock. 02:30 There's a lot of contact with the work piece, and it's both conventional and climb milling at the same time, which is far from ideal. But it did a great job, and had no trouble cutting through the soft aluminium, in fact it took out most of the waste stock in a single pass. 02:47 One small negative was the little burr at the top which suggests its rubbing rather than cutting at the very top of the cutter. But other than that, the rest of the cut was quite good, and a quick clean up pass on each side, left an excellent surface finish. 03:41 Although whilst the dovetail cutter had no problem with the aluminium, it really did struggle with this brass. I had to reduce the feed rate significantly, or risk overheating the cutter, which meant this part of the job took much longer than I would have liked. In fact if I was to do the project again, I'd probably make both top and bottom from aluminium 04:11 The walls of the cut were ok, but the bottom surface was a bit ordinary, and nowhere near as clean as the aluminium. In any case, the end result was adequate for the project, and the two major pieces came together quite nicely. 04:3 The burr on the brass piece was making the fit a little tight, so again some 120 grit paper sorted that out, and the fit was much improved. Both pieces have some rather sharp edges left over from the milling, 06:26 Once the diameter was sorted, I parted off and then used these gravers to form the dome section on the other end. The final piece to make is the stand, which I started by roughed out the basic shape on the scroll saw. 07:45 Its a bit of extra work, but its a very convenient way to get small shapes into position for soldering, that might otherwise be difficult to hold in place as they're heated. Now the brass sheet is supplied with a hard temper, so its already work hardened. 09:11 A little bit of final surface finishing, and that's the stand complete. Brass does pick up fingerprints and tarnish quite quickly when its handled, so the very last step of the project is to put on a thin coat of lacquer Machining The "Impossible Dovetail" Puzzle, by Clickspring.

Boring Turning Milling Machining Mechanics Zappella.flv
Videos presentation Mechanical Zappella Angiolino Bergamo, has been in operation since 1969 in the field of precision engineering and general engineering. Boring, Turning, Milling, Boring, Grinding, U-Tronic D'Andrea, medium-large, or small number of unique details. processing by shaving removal. Brackets, rods, gears, wheels, carts, carry-welding capestani, crankshafts, eccentrics, cams, deep drilling, high pressure distributors, oil valves, press columns, gearboxes, gears, racks, rings, flanges, lids , basements.

Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machining A Set Of Vintage Style Rope Knurls
Machining A Set Of Vintage Style Rope Knurls, by Clickspring In this video I make a set of classic rope knurling wheels, to put some ornamental rope knurl patterns on some of my future projects. There's plenty of lathe and mill work, as well as a bit of hand finishing with a fine cut file. This is the main video in a series of at least 3, that will relate to the subject of creating these beautiful rope knurl patterns. Be sure to check out the other videos when you get a chance. The other two videos in this little series are: Spare Parts #5 - Making A Bump Style Knurling Tool Holder: Spare Parts #4 - Making, Hardening And Tempering A Form Tool For The Lathe: Free plans for the double angled cutter, and form tool: utter.pdf le.pdf If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: Ask Me A Question: Follow Clickspring: Abbreviated Transcript: 00:31 The rope pattern is formed by a knurling wheel that looks like this, that has a number of fine teeth around its perimeter. Now to form those teeth, I'm going to use an additional cutter that looks like this. 00:44 Each tooth on this cutter has a 90 degree V profile, and there are 4 teeth milled around a central axis. There's relief at the back of each tooth, and the cutting rake angle will be generated by milling past the tool centerline. I'll be using some of this EN8 steel to make both the cutter and the knurl. 02:43 After finding the edge of the work, I positioned this end mill, the correct distance past the centerline, and then set about milling the gaps between the teeth. For this part of the job I'm using the simple indexing plate of the dividing head, thats just behind the chuck. 03:32 For the cutter to work correctly, the back side of each tooth needs to be relieved, so I'll be removing this little corner of metal here on each tooth, and shaping it to blend with the back surface. 04:20 But I thought it might be worth showing what happens to the steel if nothing is done to protect it while its heated, so I've wrapped the working end of the cutter as usual, but I've left the chucking end uncoated, and exposed to the torch flame. With nothing to stop the oxidation, the unprotected end has formed a thick black scale, while the protected end is mostly free from scale, and looking quite bright. 05:39 Now you'll have noticed that the knurl teeth are cut on an angle to the body of the knurl, which means that the knurl blanks need to somehow be securely presented at an angle to the cutter. I could have simply cut them while they were still attached to the parent stock, but I figured since I was making a few of them, a dedicated holder would be bit more efficient, and I can keep it for when I make more in the future. So I made this arbor to hold them on the mill. 07:47 Back onto the mill, the work was again secured in the dividing head, and then tilted to an angle of 30 degrees. I took some time to cutter was carefully positioned against the work, to make sure it was centered on the blank, and then the teeth were cut into the knurl. 08:19 For this particular knurl I indexed for 40 teeth, which was simply one turn of the handwheel on the dividing head, for each cut. Now the quality of the cut was a little rougher than I would have liked, so I gave it another pass without hanging the depth, and that seemed to clean it up. 08:56 With that first one complete, I used a few different angles, as well as index counts, to make the full set of 5 knurls, which will give me a good range of different rope knurl patterns. Each of those knurls was quench hardened and then tempered. So that's a set of rope knurls complete and ready for use, so let's give them a run. 09:41 Bump style knurling tools generate an enormous side force on the work, so tailstock support definitely helps. And even with this support, the work still deflects quite a lot as the pattern is formed. 10:24 Now I didn't make any effort to calculate the correct diameter to avoid double tracking, in fact I was surprised to find that it wasn't really necessary. In no time at all the knurl cut its way down to a diameter that worked, and the pattern started to jump out. References: Frank Ford (Luthier/Machinist) Machining A Set Of Vintage Style Rope Knurls, by Clickspring