My Saturn SL1 Modification Video. Exterior Modifications consist of: Magnaflow Performance Straight pipe Exhaust/muffler. AEM Cool Air Intake, Polished and painted valve cover to match the car, AEM decal, Magnaflow Performance Decal, AVS Visors over every window, Tinted windows at 30%. And HP Racing 16'' Wheels. Interior Modifications: Type S gear shift knob, racing pedals, cobra radar detector, new upholstry, pioneer sound system&radio. Soon to come: Body Kit, Spoiler, Hood Scoop, Neon Kit, and Headers
Saturn TAAT Transmission Valve Body Removal 1of 2
Saturn TAAT Transmission Valve Body Removal 1of 2
I will be adding installing valve body. Removal of transmission, and input
nut shaft replacement shortly.
If you have problems or questions, let me know, Or visit
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums My username there is campus189
99 Turbo Saturn SL on the Dyno
Hey gang this car made 220whp, on 9 psi.
I was hoping for 240whp. But i guess theres work to be done. Thanks for
2002 Saturn SL1 Full Tour, Start Up, Exhaust
I wanted to do a long video on this 2002 saturn sl1 that we have, this is
my 3rd favorite car on the lot next to the cadillac and jaguar lol, but
yeah I completely go through it and show it off and get an Exhaust clip, thing sounds good!
Paul's '99 Saturn SL2 Homecoming Edition Turbo
If you want more info on the song that's used in the video:
♫ K100 - Riot
Where can you get the song?
► Official Download: https://soundcloud.com/k100/k100-riot-master
► RoyalTrax Backup: http://royaltrax.com/k100-riot/
Please support the artist by visiting one of his social media sites that is
You can also follow us at:
2001 Saturn SC 5spd Start Up, Engine, and In Depth Tour
In this video I give a full in depth tour of a 2001 Saturn SC 5 spd. I
take viewers on a close look through the interior and exterior of this car
while showing details, over viewing of features, and noting unique styling
cues to the vehicle itself. I also show the engine and the details of it,
start it up and see how it sounds under acceleration. A thorough
tour/review of this car designed to give others a greater overall
appreciation of the vehicle.
Low Side Suction hose replacement on a Saturn S-Series Air Conditioner
Low Side Suction hose replacement.
Follow-up here: http://youtu.be/JQMcvWwo-3U (also check the video
10:38 -- the O-ring on the compressor is called a slim line seal washer.
You only use suction side slim line seal washers as a replacement.
Additionally, there is a separate part number if you're attempting this
repair on a 1999-2002 S-series... this is it: 21031289
11:10 -- Obviously you would want to re-attach your air intake tubing, air
resonator, and air box/filter before taking off...
To clear some misinformation: some home A/C units in fact DON'T use
R-134a... the newest one I bought uses R-410a... however the fridge DOES
* 1/4" drive ratchet
* vice grips
* 10mm sockets (regular and deep well)
* 3" extension
* R-12 mineral oil (for lubing the new O-ring on the thermal expansion
valve side; FJC part #2468 works well for this)
* rolled napkins/rags to plug the holes where the hose fits onto until you
get the new hose prepped and screwed in
***Mechanic's Safety/Troubleshooting tips when working on the A/C system***
1. A good majority (about 98-99%) of A/C malfunctions/gremlins are related
to a leak or multiple leaks in the system. Unlike your home A/C unit,
refridgerator, etc an automotive A/C system is always put to the hard test,
every day. Conditions include but are not limited to: collision damage,
vibrations, road noise, underhood temperatures that constantly change like
Owe-Higho weather, etc. Over the years these and other conditions cause
your parts to wear out, which means the proper parts will have to be
replaced in order to restore your A/C functionality.
2. Always have a professional technician service/diagnose your A/C system.
The techs have the know-how, tools, and machines to properly
diagnose/service your A/C system, including but not limited to: System
evacuation, vacuum holding, pressure testing, leak detection, and if
everything's good to go, a recharge.
HOWEVER, you can save some diagnostic time by looking for evidence of
leaks. Usually, traces of UV dye and/or refridgerant oil will be left where
the leak(s) happened. Start at the compressor, then the condenser, hoses,
lines, receiver/dryer, thermal expansion valve, oriface tubes, etc.
3. ALWAYS work on a discharged system. Refridgerant is cold to the touch
and can cause personal injury. If you're dumb enough to put it in your face
(or someone else's), you can put an eye out.
4. Work on a cold engine (think ambient air temperature). I'm sure you
don't wanna get burned working in tight places, etc.
5. If you're working on multiple A/C parts, repair each part one at a time.
Due to the way A/C flows and the design of parts, etc. this'll save
confusion and tail chasing later on. Mixing parts and hoses can cause
costly repairs later, if not an improperly working A/C system.
Remember, Safety, Proper troubleshooting, Proper diagnosis, and doing the
job right the first time are all #1.