BMW 650i cabriolet review (2011)
The all new BMW 650i with 4,4-liter V8: it has 407 hp and 600 Nm torque! Is
this the perfect convertible for the coming summer?
High-res via http://www.abhd.nl/video/bmw-6-serie-cabrio/
BMW i8 review
Our review of the new electrifying BMW i8.
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2013 Rolls-Royce Phantom II Drophead Coupe - Is it a BMW or a Rolls-Royce? - Ignition Episode 44
On this episode of Ignition, Motor Trend's Testing Director Kim Reynolds
determines the validity of the BMW-built Rolls-Royce Phantom II Drophead
Coupe. Are the veins of the car filled with the same oil of its heritage or
do they hold the oil of their German Stepfather?
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BMW 1 Series M Coupe vs BMW M3
To the M badge faithful, the BMW 1 Series M Coupe signals a return to form.
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Pagani Huayra brutal acceleration!
www.jaykaybi.com - I am a very lucky boy. Below is my in-car video of
the Zonda PS for comparison. They're very different cars, and I know the
Huayra isn't quite as wild to listen to but it's not trying to be a Zonda.
Don't think of it as the Zonda replacement. The Huayra is James Bond to
the Zonda's Bruce Lee - they both have their place, and I can see why many
Huayra owners will be keeping their Zondas.
Replacing upper / thrust control arm on late model BMW 5, 6, 7 and X series
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14819
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blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at:
In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for control arm
and bushing replacement on an E60, E61 chassis 5-series BMW (3 series
04-10). This procedure can be followed for all 5-series models from 2004
through 2011 (exc 2010 GT), 6-series (E63, 64) 2004 through 2010 (and coupe
through 2013), 7-series (E65, 66) 2001 through 2009 as well as 3-series
06-on (E90, E91, E92. E93 and F30), 5-series 11-on (F07, F10), 6-series
(F12, F13), 7-series (F01, F02), Z4 (E89) and X1, X3, X5 and X6 models
with minor detail differences.
The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures
and torque values for your given BMW model, to include those for the models
and chassis not listed here.
• Upper (thrust/strut) control arm
* New lock-nuts for ball-joint and bushing bolt
* Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool -
• 3/8" drive Torx bit socket set
* 3/8" drive Allen metric bit socket set
* 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions
• 1/2" drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 16mm -
• open-end wrench set, 16mm-21mm
• Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers
1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front
wheels are off the ground.
2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
3) Remove the under-chassis splash panel(s).
4) Remove the nut on the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen
the nut on the end of the ball joint's through-pin. Once the nut is loose,
the through-pin will rotate with the nut (this is NOT a tapered pin as is
common on earlier designs). Use the applicable Torx or Allen bit, inserted
into the end of the through-pin, to secure the pin and remove the nut.
NOTE: DO NOT use a pickle-fork (or other ball-joint separator tools) to
separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball-joint through
pin is not tapered and does not require any type of separator tool.
5) Loosen the nut on the through-bolt for the control arm bushing mount.
7) Remove the strut clamp through-bolt and the remaining bolt securing the
swaybar endlink bracket to the steering knuckle. Move the swaybar endlink
8) Use the steering knuckle strut clamp spreader tool to slightly widen
the strut clamp.
9) Pull the steering knuckle assembly down a few inches so that the
control arm ball-joint can be pulled up and out of the steering knuckle
assembly (see step 10 before attempting to pull the ball-joint out).
10) Remove the control arm bushing through-bolt.
11) Remove the control arm ball-joint from the steering knuckle.
12) Install the new control arm by inserting the ball-joint into the
steering knuckle and the bushing up into the mounting bracket. Insert the
13) Push the steering knuckle up to seat the strut fully into the clamping
saddle (a hydraulic jack may be useful to push the steering knuckle
assembly up). Be sure that the strut is properly seated into the clamping
14) Remove the steering knuckle spreader tool.
15) Install the swaybar endlink bracket with the bracket bolt and the
steering knuckle through-bolt. Tighten the bolts to the torque specified
in the Bentley repair manual.
16) Using the Torx or Allen bit and open-end wrench, tighten the ball-joint
hut to the specified torque (Bentley repair manual).
17) Install the control arm bushing through-bolt nut. Do not fully
tighten the nut.
NOTE: The control arm must be positioned at normal ride height before
tightening the control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. This can be
accomplished by carefully (and with extreme caution) jacking under the
control arm ball-joint until the chassis shows signs of lightening on the
jack-stand or by lowering the vehicle onto ramps (so you can still work
under to access the bushing bolt and nut).
12) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube
requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps
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