Cylinder Head Refit

Edd sets about refitting the cylinder head before crossing his fingers that it hasn't all been a waste of time and money. Series 7 available to buy on iTunes - http://bit.ly/Ol53Jy & on Google Play - http://bit.ly/1qLCtAh

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Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing and they're not bent? This is one way to fix that problem. I have filmed a professional machinist complete a proper valve job which includes cutting new seats, installing new valves, and doing some valve grinding tricks at the following video: https://youtu.be/eMNFeToqzJU For as little as $1 per video, per month you get access to early releases, exclusive content, and discussions at: http://www.patreon.com/Jafromobile Once you've completed this work, you can clearly see the size, width, and consistency of the valve mating surface on BOTH the valve, and the seat. Should any distortion appear in the mating surfaces, you will need the help of a machinist to fix this properly. I outline the cleaning and inspection techniques to help determine whether or not you need to pay a machinist to perform an actual valve job. If you find after performing these steps that your valves don't seat properly, or that your valve seat or valve margin measurements are out of spec, only then would you need a machinist's help. Here I cover the inspection process start-to-finish. All of these same procedures would be used by your machinist, usually with better equipment... but you can still do the same thing in your garage. These techniques work exactly the same way for just about every non-rotary combustion engine. It takes patience and perseverance, but anyone can do it. Reference your service manual for your engine's specifications and service limits. Everything else that's not in your service manual is in this video. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports. Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself, never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average gearhead's home garage. Tools that will give better, faster, more accurate answers than someone could determine with their eyeballs when they don't own those expensive tools. Lastly: The oxidation found on these valve seats were caused by 110 octane leaded race fuel. Some kinds of race fuel are corrosive to hardened steel valve seats. This head had only about 30,000 miles on it since its last valve job. These techniques will not fix damaged valves without causing a different kind of damage. I'm sorry I had no damaged parts beyond corrosion to show you in this video.





Cylinder Head Installation





Engine tasks
" We went to quite a bit of trouble to get this engine out of our Lotus and that's because we've got several jobs to do and it's a lot easier when it's on the bench. Now the most obvious, was this manifold here, because of the crack it sounds like a tank, so we're gonna change that, but also this cam belt here. Because the history of the car, we're not really sure of when the cam belt was last changed, and because it could do an awful lot of damage if it was to break, we're gonna change that as a matter of course." " How much damage? Well, if the belt snaps and the valves smash into the pistons, you're looking at thousands of pounds to fix it." " First, I align the distributor, crank and drive shaft to top dead center by lining up the helpful markings on the pulleys." " Undo the tensioner and the old belt slides off easily, to be replaced by a brand spanking new one for only 33 pounds. Mike will be happy." " The belt's back on, so what I'm doing now is just rotating the engine by hand ah, a complete. Revolution." " Okay,um, I'm just gonna trying to line up against the top dead center, just to see, make sure all our marks still line up. Which they do, which means, I've very successfully replaced our cam belt." " Now it's time to tackle the Exhaust." " Gotta take this manifold off, but the problem is, you can see, these rusty nuts on the rusty studs holding it onto the engine. So, I'm gonna get some heat on these guys, see if I can expand the nut. And wind it off ever so gently. But wish me luck, it's gonna be ever so tricky. This is such a fiddly job it's kind of ridiculous actually, I think if it had been on the car, it would have taken probably half a day to do, but at least this way it's only taken maybe half an hour or so. The good new is, the manifold is now off. The very heavy bit of scrap metal, and I'll now be replacing that with a nice new Exhaust system." " The surface needs to be carefully cleaned or the new manifold gasket won't seal properly. It really does pay to be thorough. I've now prepared the head ready for our new manifold but I'm not gonna be replacing it with another cast iron unit, because although these are quite good for a cheap in fact, for mass production, they're not so good for performance and at the end of the day, we've got a performance vehicle. So what I'm going to be using, is an after-market, stainless steel tubular manifold, that's made up of lots of individual pipes that have got a nice uniform diameter, so the gas flows out much much better, which means ultimately we get better performance and for me, it's also easier to fit." " I'm not gonna fully tighten up these nuts yet. First, I'm gonna offer up the stainless steel collector and make sure it all fits together. The collector will be properly attached later when the engine is back in the car. And since the engine is out, I may as well give it a quick service. So I'm changing the spark plugs, replacing the oil filter and sticking in a new air filter."





7 Of The Top Sleeper Engine Cars Of All Time
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