Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

350z Rubbing Vibration Noise when Accelerating

Strange noise from 350z when accelerating... The beggining you can hear it well but when I put the camera on the dash it's very noticable.. You can hear the normal engine accelerating noise in the background and the hollow type strange noise over it all. Feels like it takes a performance hit too.


 


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How to Find a Bad Wheel Bearing - EricTheCarGuy
How to Find a Bad Wheel Bearing - EricTheCarGuy Well as I said in the video I shot this some time ago but never posted it. I've been snowed in for a couple of days so I haven't been to the shop to make some new video so I decided to bring this one up from the vault. The idea is to give you some basic information on how to find a bad wheel bearing, replacing it once you find it is another story but diagnosing is the first step. Now, another way to find out if you have a limited slip is to jack up both sides of the car and rotate one of the drive wheels. If the wheel on the opposite side moves in the same direction you probably have a limited slip differential. If the wheel spins in the opposite direction you probably have a regular differential that is not limited slip. As I said in the video a bunch of times be careful doing this, use the parking brake and brace the rear wheels with something. I know you'll do the right thing. Now on to the recommended channels http://www.youtube.com/user/realfixesrealfast http://www.youtube.com/user/roadragecustoms --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- As always stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





How to Diagnose a Noisy Wheel Hub and Bearing
It can be tricky trying to diagnose a front end suspension noise. We show you a simple technique here simply describing how to diagnose a wheel hub noise. Age, mileage and road conditions can really take a toll on wheel bearings. This particular wheel bearing is a sealed bolt on unit that can only be replaced as an assembly. This procedure can work on many different styles of wheel bearings and front end noises. The automobile consist of: Powertrain: 1. Engine: • Fuel System: Purpose is to deliver fuel to the engine. It consists of the fuel tank, pump, gauge/sensor, filter, pressure regulator and injectors. • Air Intake System: Purpose is to clean and direct outside air into the engine. It consist of air filter, ducts, air plenum and intake manifold. • Exhaust System: Purpose is to direct Exhaust gasses out of combustion out of engine. It consists of the Exhaust manifold, converters, pipes and mufflers. • Cooling System: Purpose is to remove excess heat from the engine. It consists of water pump, hoses, radiator, thermostat, cooling fan and coolant recovery tank. Also the oil system serves as a cooling system as well as a lubricating system. It consist of oil pump, pan, filter and cooler. Drivetrain: 1. Clutch: Purpose is to connect the engine and transmission together. It consists of clutch drive disc, driven disc, release bearing, clutch fork, cable, slave cylinder, master cylinder. There are three types of clutch systems: mechanical, cable and hydraulic. 2. Transmission: Purpose is to match engine speed to road speed. Two types used are manual or automatic. These consist of gears, linkages, cables and converters for automatics. A manual is connected to the clutch by a flywheel and automatic by a flexplate. 3. Driveshaft: Purpose is to connect the transmission to the rear axle. It consists of a slip yoke, shaft and universal joints. 4. Rear axle differential: Purpose is to change the angle of motion from engine to the wheels. It also divides torque between the wheels. It consists of a ring and pinion gear, carrier, bearings, crush sleeve and axle shafts. 5. Wheels/Tires: Purpose is to provide traction to the road as well as carry the weight of the vehicle. Vehicle Control Systems: 1. Brakes: Purpose is to slow and stop the vehicle. It consists of master cylinder, brake Booster (vacuum or hydraulic), calipers, drums, pads and rotors. 2. Steering: Purpose is to direct vehicle in the required direction. Consists of steering gear (rack & pinion), steering wheel, column, inner/outer tie rods, pump, reservoir, hoses and pipes. 3. Suspension: Purpose is to provide stability and handling while also providing comfort to the ride. Consists of shocks, struts, sway bars, end links, springs, trailing arms and bushings. Comfort System: 1: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning (HVAC): Heats and cools interior air to passenger comfort. Also circulates outside and inside air. • Air Conditioning: Consist of condenser, compressor, accumulator (receiver/dryer) orifice, expansion valve, hoses, evaporator, controls, actuators and modules. • Heating: Consists of heater core, valves, hoses and switches. Electrical Systems: 1. Power Generation: Creates electrical power to run all the electrical systems. Consists of the alternator. 2. Power storage: Stores unused power to start the car and supply voltage to the alternator to create more electricity. • Both systems consist of wiring, harnesses, fuse, relays and modules.





350z transmission rattle noise
my 350z transmission just started making this noise the other day. does anyone know what could be causing this? it is a 2005 track edition with 35k miles. it runs and shifts completely like normal but this noise is awful. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks





350z Transmission Hum
It happens throughout but at 3 minutes when I hit the on ramp for the freeway it's very pronounced.





Transmission whining/grinding noise on a 97 740iL
UPDATE: Resolved the issue in June by performing a transmission fluid change, replacing the Febi filter the shop installed with a Genuine BMW Filtran filter. No noises at all in the last two months. Whining noise my 740iL makes when accelerating with a cold engine.





2004 Civic Manual Transmission Noise
Horrible noise coming from my '04 Civic LX's manual transmission. Noise has been getting worse; started at 100k miles, and here we are almost 30k later. Any ideas?





BELT NOISE - Causes & Solutions (by Dayco)
Understand the type of noise coming from the belt, then start troubleshooting. This video provides the information needed to understand and fix the issue. In addition, there's alot of information on the web giving incorrect advice on how to check/fix belt noise. This video also provides a list of things NOT to do! For more information on belt chirp and squeal, please review the following YouTube videos. Solution to Belt Squeal: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sli3FnPfdQ4 Solution to Belt Chirp: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9qMtVVLXeY For even more detailed information, visit http://www.daycoW.com





01 Subaru Forester - Strange noise when accelerating
You can start to hear it at about 20 mph if you are in the car. It doesn't really show up in the video until about 35mph. Any ideas what it could be?





2003 v35/g35 350gt 6mt clutch chatter and shudder
I uploaded this video in an attempt to pin point exactly what was wrong my my transmission. It makes a very loud grinding, rattling noise in 1st and 2nd gear and in reverse. It almost sounds like rocks bouncing around inside my transmission. Any help or advise will be very much appreciated. No Trolling please.





Nissan 350Z Window Problem
Made a short video demonstrating the horrible plague of evil broken window motors for the 350Z. Personally, I find it quite annoying and the price of a repair from where I am (approximately 900$) is just too much (thus my broken window). I tried removing the door panel to get to the window motor, submerge it in WD40, polish it, clean it, and such but the fix barely lasted a week or two so not really in the mood to go through all that again! Anyways, for any new owners of a 350Z wondering what their window is up to, maybe this vid can help you get an idea ;)





350z with problem starting - PROBLEM NOW SOLVED!
After a trial an error process the dealership finally found out what the problem was. The NATS antenna went out. When it went out it somehow fried my BCM (Body Control Module). The car threw a code the first time I took the car to the dealer and their trouble shoot was to replace the keys and reprogram everything. So we did that. It didn't fix anything. I tried a new battery (the original battery was on its way out. Only putting out 265 cranking amps rather than the 500+ that it should have been). After that the problem was still there so I took it back to the dealer. This time they changed the BCM and told me that was the cause. It was a factor but not the cause. The third time I bring the car in it throws a code for the NATS antenna. After that was swapped out everything works great. I've gone about 1,000 miles on the new NATS antenna without a problem. The car starts every time. Hopefully this helps the rest of you.





Nissan 350z window problem resolved
350z common window problem if you've been having trouble with my 350z passenger side window IN CASE the window would not auto close properly Or go all the way to the top before dropping down about a quarter of the way again. AND you want to solve the problem. TRY the Window Regulator Motor Reset Procedure. It SHOULD work again properly SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Remove the Door Panel. ^ Refer to the applicable Service Manual for Door Panel removal instructions 2. With the door open, lift UP and HOLD the Window Switch until the Window is fully closed. ^ Do not use the Window auto-closing function ^ Do not release the Switch before the Window is fully closed 3. Get inside the vehicle and close the door. ^ You need to close the door so the Door Switch is fully depressed 4. Press and HOLD the Window Regulator Motor Reset Switch. While holding the Reset Switch, press DOWN and HOLD the Window Switch until the Window is fully opened. ^ Do not use the Window auto-opening function ^ Do not release the Switch before the Window is fully opened 5. Release the Reset Switch. Then, lift UP and HOLD the Window Switch until the Window is fully closed. ^ Do not use the Window auto-closing function ^ Do not release the Switch before the Window is fully closed 6. Open the Door to release the Door Switch. The Window Glass should partially move down. 7. Re-install the Door Panel.





Nissan Maxima Noise
Can anyone help me out with what this noise might be? I know it's hard to hear in the video, but it's really noticeable in real life. It's kind of a pfffft sound under medium acceleration (kind of like the sound a turbo makes, but much more annoying and slightly sharper). It doesn't vary with speed and goes away under full throttle. I also can't hear it at idle, or when i'm coasting or cruising along. Most noticeable from 0:24-0:26 and 0:40-0:44.





Car Rattling Noise
A noise I get from my car in between 1,500 and 2,500rpm. It happens regardless of gear and clutch position. Is this a transmission problem or is something just loose and resonating?





strange noise jetta engine 2
First I just start the car.. You can hear a abnormal noise then I accelerate to 1500-1600 rpm, another noise started at 1500.. then 3000 rpm but the engine is too loud to distinguish the noises separately I don't to much about engines but someone more experienced can.. UPDATE: it was an ugly noise but was not a big problem . It cost me 50 bucks for the part and 10 minutes of work.You can do it yourself. Intake manifold shift was the problem .The OEM bushings wear quickly and become the source of loud rattles you hear during acceleration and deceleration You can buy a buy a replacement shift rod (120 $) or 2 bushing rods (50 $) You can find on forums a FUY- . It took me 10 minutes and I have to left hands.




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