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CFM Performance 4G63 Powered AWD Dodge Colt

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Colt Driveshaft Install Part 2/3
It cost me $55 to have my driveshaft shortened. They even painted it at that price. After rebuilding the Colt's driveshaft I clear up the process and complete its installation. I discuss fabricating the front carrier bearing mount and positioning it, illustrate pinion angles, and hit 2 points left out of the driveshaft series. Those two points being the grease volume in the Lobro boot and using Loctite during assembly. No fancy audio track this time. Rumor has it some people had trouble concentrating, and we're going to cover a lot of ground fast. It's also extremely difficult to generate 18 minute songs just to have them permanently get hung in YouTube's copyright arbitration. So this time it's just a detailed explanation of how this worked out for me. No distractions. The driveshaft was shortened as the final edits were being placed on the last video. I jumped right back into the garage to bring you the next 12 hours of footage in just under 18 minutes. There's no perfect recipe for an AWD Colt. Everyone bakes theirs a little different. I convicted myself to share its entire transformation and potentially my fiery death in it on YouTube. Hopefully not the latter. I just want to clear something up because I don't want a flame war about this again. I'm not here as a professional mechanic handing out diplomas. If someone learned anything from my experience, that's the reward in hanging out here. Anyone is welcome to disagree with my methods at any time, but I'm not going to argue or volley about this subject with anyone in 500 character comments unless it's constructive. If anyone wishes to complain about me breaking bolts loose by hitting my wrenches with a mini-sledge, you're welcome to simply explain a better method that worked for you on these parts. You can't fit sockets over the bolt heads or nuts so you can access them with impact wrenches or breaker bars. There's a carrier bearing tight up against the nut side, and the bolt heads rest against the lobro joint's metal boot cup which is not dimpled to allow access for a socket. If you strip out the 7mm allen-head portion of the bolt, you'll never be able to torque the bolts back down. If you use a torch there's a high probability of starting a grease fire. A grease fire isn't very easy to stop. Most people take apart a Lobro joint because the boot is ripped and grease is leaking out. You have fuel, you have air, don't add fire. No it's not good for your tools to hit them with a hammer, yes it's dangerous because wrenches can become airborne, but if you do this over a workbench and take precautions, it's extremely effective and you won't get hurt. I have little concern with a 12mm crescent wrench if it's all that's standing between me and having a 500hp AWD Colt. If you manage to break a wrench, they're still much cheaper to replace than a fire extinguisher. I received dozens of complaints about shop ethics, but this is an acceptable means of breaking bolts loose when all else fails. It's the nature of red thread locker. I figured it was better to explain this here in the comments so others will firstly understand why it's not the ideal method, but most of all why it's the least-dangerous method. You will injure yourself far worse if the jaws of your wrench spread and you smash your knuckles against something when it slips off. I respect the reasoning behind others' concern on this topic and I don't want anyone getting hurt either... so consider that your 12mm wrench may be expendable on this job, and proceed at your own risk. But the other thing I left out of the driveshaft series... make sure you have a fresh tube of red loctite handy. I thought I had mine before I started the job and it was hard as nails. You need red loctite on your Lobro bolts. I do indeed fail at important things from time to time. I'll be sure to do it on-video and make a public example of myself when I do so we can all learn from it.

Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?

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