Colt Driveshaft Install Part 2/3
It cost me $55 to have my driveshaft shortened. They even painted it at
that price. After rebuilding the Colt's driveshaft I clear up the process
and complete its installation. I discuss fabricating the front carrier
bearing mount and positioning it, illustrate pinion angles, and hit 2
points left out of the driveshaft series. Those two points being the
grease volume in the Lobro boot and using Loctite during assembly.
No fancy audio track this time. Rumor has it some people had trouble
concentrating, and we're going to cover a lot of ground fast. It's also
extremely difficult to generate 18 minute songs just to have them
permanently get hung in YouTube's copyright arbitration. So this time it's
just a detailed explanation of how this worked out for me. No
The driveshaft was shortened as the final edits were being placed on the
last video. I jumped right back into the garage to bring you the next 12
hours of footage in just under 18 minutes. There's no perfect recipe for
an AWD Colt. Everyone bakes theirs a little different. I convicted myself
to share its entire transformation and potentially my fiery death in it on
YouTube. Hopefully not the latter.
I just want to clear something up because I don't want a flame war about
this again. I'm not here as a professional mechanic handing out diplomas.
If someone learned anything from my experience, that's the reward in
hanging out here. Anyone is welcome to disagree with my methods at any
time, but I'm not going to argue or volley about this subject with anyone
in 500 character comments unless it's constructive. If anyone wishes to
complain about me breaking bolts loose by hitting my wrenches with a
mini-sledge, you're welcome to simply explain a better method that worked
for you on these parts.
You can't fit sockets over the bolt heads or nuts so you can access them
with impact wrenches or breaker bars. There's a carrier bearing tight up
against the nut side, and the bolt heads rest against the lobro joint's
metal boot cup which is not dimpled to allow access for a socket. If you
strip out the 7mm allen-head portion of the bolt, you'll never be able to
torque the bolts back down. If you use a torch there's a high probability
of starting a grease fire. A grease fire isn't very easy to stop. Most
people take apart a Lobro joint because the boot is ripped and grease is
leaking out. You have fuel, you have air, don't add fire.
No it's not good for your tools to hit them with a hammer, yes it's
dangerous because wrenches can become airborne, but if you do this over a
workbench and take precautions, it's extremely effective and you won't get
hurt. I have little concern with a 12mm crescent wrench if it's all that's
standing between me and having a 500hp AWD Colt. If you manage to break a
wrench, they're still much cheaper to replace than a fire extinguisher. I
received dozens of complaints about shop ethics, but this is an acceptable
means of breaking bolts loose when all else fails. It's the nature of red
thread locker. I figured it was better to explain this here in the
comments so others will firstly understand why it's not the ideal method,
but most of all why it's the least-dangerous method. You will injure
yourself far worse if the jaws of your wrench spread and you smash your
knuckles against something when it slips off. I respect the reasoning
behind others' concern on this topic and I don't want anyone getting hurt
either... so consider that your 12mm wrench may be expendable on this job,
and proceed at your own risk.
But the other thing I left out of the driveshaft series... make sure you
have a fresh tube of red loctite handy. I thought I had mine before I
started the job and it was hard as nails. You need red loctite on your
I do indeed fail at important things from time to time. I'll be sure to do
it on-video and make a public example of myself when I do so we can all
learn from it.