"How To" polish aluminum by hand (part 2)
Umm... in this video I show you uhhh... how to uhh... hand polish aluminum
lol. This is part 2 of 2. The entire process took roughly 4 and a half
hours and I watched movies for most of them. Forgive the speech impediment
How to install 1" wheel spacers and new wheels
Installing one 1 inch wheel spacers (H&R) including cutting down the stock
- A torque wrench isn't optimal to take off lugs, it's just the only big
enough wrench i had for use.
- Putting the open end lugs on the studs to be cut first will help
straighten the threads after cutting when you take them off. But still cut
to the black line and not to the lug.
You can thank youtube for not allowing real copywritten music. Music my
HOW TO POLISH A MUSTANG INTAKE? (DIY)
how to polish a intake?
how to polish aluminum?
how tu polish stock intake?
how to polish plenum?
how to polish manifold?
Sanding, sanding, sanding first with a sandpaper 100 grip to remove paint
and scratches then use 150 grip to remove the scratches the 100 grip make
then 180,220,400,600,800,1200,2000 always sanding up-down or left-right,
wherever is aesy for you when you get to the 1200 grip you would see is
almost a shiny polished afetr been sanding use some compound to clear the
aluminum with a drill and buffing wheel then use white rouge(mothers) to
complete the high polished.....
note: all sanding is complete dry
Lijar, lijar, lijar todo el metodo esta en lijar empezando con lija de 100
para remover la pintura y los poros que tenga el aluminio y dejarlo liso,
despues usar la de 150 para quitar las rayaduras que dejo la de 100 despues
la de 180 para eliminar las que dejo la de 150 y asi sucesivamentecon la
del 220 400 600 800 1200 2000 para cuando llegues a la del 1200 veras que
empieza a salir el brillo, siempre asegurarse de hacerlo de arriba hacia
abajo o de izquierda a derecha para hacer lo menos rayaduras posibles todo
el proceso es seco sin agua y sin usar demasiada fuerza despues de la lija
de 180 cuando acabes de lijar es solo cuestion de limpiar y pulir con
polish para carro y una cera de metales como braso o mothers usando una
pulidora o a mano tambien.....
Porting an aluminum intake manifold, basics of porting and polishing.mpg
Porting and Polishing Basics. Porting on an aluminum intake. A few
principles and techniques for porting. The therory and approach discussed
can be applied to porting most intakes and porting and polishing in
general. Abrasives, carbide burrs, surface finish, porting tools and tips.
Equipment from CC Specialty Tools (ccspecialtytool.com)
Skunk2 Ultra Race Intake Manifold Port & Polish "How To"
Here I am porting & polishing a "Skunk2 Ultra Race" Intake Manifold. Sadly
they come from the factory with a hefty price tag of $700-$1,200 depending
on your optional spacer for the plenum. They also come with a ton of
casting flaws such seen in the video.There are multiple ways to port &
polish but I find this method the easiest for DIYers.
Help Support My Channel:
Visit me at: http://www.Nthefastlane.com
"Hitman" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
PART 1 of 3 How To Install Replace Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets GM 3.4L V6
If you are losing Coolant but don't know where it is going check to see if
your oil looks lighter brown and foamy if so you are getting coolant or
antifreeze in your oil and this can be one of the causes. This video is
applicable to the Pontiac Grand Am, model years 1999-2005.
How to Install a PI Intake on a Non-PI 4.6L 2V Ford Engine
BadShoe Productions "How To" video on installing a PI (power improved)
intake on an earlier non-PI 4.6L engine. This popular swap adds performance
and prepares the engine for future installation of PI cylinder heads. I use
my 97 TBird 4.6L 2V however, the details also apply to Mustangs, Crown Vic's, Grand Merc's
and Town Cars. Please email me if you comments or questions about this
polish aluminum valve covers
let me know what you think. also I do a lot of work on car so if there is
something you would like to see i can make a videos on it. I make a lot of
" Do It Your Self videos"
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion
strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they
can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure
in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by.
Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why
they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You
don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil
viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from
the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by
connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can
be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can
easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that
pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase
pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings
from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover
gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to
escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One
of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is
having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then
there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also,
on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works
against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV
system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple
breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the
breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the
throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The
PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the
intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake
than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at
idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of
the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is
always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger
than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when
you're under Boost... that's all the
blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11
PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of
Boost, this is a system which is
frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as
well look at your Boost controller
as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is
bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of
creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced
techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs
do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high
crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption
that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum.
Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals
without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but
that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and
rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad
shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and
leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no
vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates
the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a
catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation.
I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air
that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever
building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require
gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal
to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings.
One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract
gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.
Cobra Jet Intake Test
Cobra Jet Manifold
Super Cobra Jet TB
Rev Auto 5in CAI
Lethal 3 Inch H-Pipe
REVOLUTION AUTOMOTIVE Dyno TUNE